Womenswear Archives


December 30, 2006

Milan Women’s S/S 07 – BORBONESE

The 70’s visit the Borbonese runway while designer Allesandro Dell’Acqua opts to show more metallic fabrics than one would expect on one runway. To open the collection the designer showed a series of giraffe print looks, from pants, bathing suits to blouses. One of the standout looks in this section is a giraffe print crepe blouse worn with a matching cream wool pencil skirt and overcoat. The lapels and opening of the coat are trimmed with brown leather. The look is topped off with a matching giraffe print platform heel. The heel giraffe heel was worn with several looks. One of those looks is a short sleeve cream knit polo top with the breast pockets finished with a olive green suede trim. The knit top is worn with a cream cotton gazar button front pencil skirt.

The second section is a series of silver goddess dresses which were a little over the top. Then Dell’Acqua moved into a more tailored look that is a mix of 70’s color palette with a 60’s modern tailoring. While there were a few skinny leg pants in the collection, is that Dell’Acqua loosened up his pants. One of the standout pant looks in this section is a full-leg red pant worn with tan button front long sleeve cardigan over a scooped neck tan sweater. Knitwear is another strong trend that Dell’Acqua showed this season. Giving his customers lighter knit pieces in light shades. Another strong look that he showed was a tan linen button front safari jacket worn with a white dress shirt. Moving into evening the designer showed a series of red silk dresses. The overall design of the gowns was very simple.

The highlights from the Borbonese collection are the outerwear pieces, from the trench coat to the reversible jackets. Alessandro's knitwear was also another showstopper, the must have piece from the collection is one his knit cardigans. A long button-front red merino cardigan with brown suede detailing the pocket flaps and matching belt. For Spring/Summer Borbonese is looking to give a cleaner twist to the 70’s and 60’s trend of the season. The result is a wearable everyday piece and looks. The short falls in the collection are some of metallic looks and the evening section. I would like to have seen the more sophisticate and everyday look morphed into the evening section.

View complete collection at Wireimage

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December 23, 2006

Milan Women’s S/S 07 – GIANFRANCO FERRÈ

While many new young and innovative designers explode onto the runways each season. So few of them actually survive the trenches of fashion, mostly due to there lose of passion for the craft. Many say commercialism is the cause but in truth designers like Gianfranco Ferrè have created a commercial style for their brand and still find passion to create each season. This season Ferrè’s inspiration was all over the place. There is the signature Ferrè masculine woman mixed with several nautical theme looks as well as Spanish gypsies. The opening section was a series of shorts and short skirt looks in the classic Ferrè color palette of black and white. One of the standout pieces in the opening section is a collarless shirt with a black and white dot geometric design on the fabric. The sleeves are balloon shape with opening of the shirt wrapped in a kimono style. Another standout piece in the opening section is another black and white piece, a standing Cardin collar jacket that is worn with a white belt to close the jacket.

Moving into the second section Ferrè moved away from his classic modern shapes in favor of a loose and romantic silhouette. The key to these romantic looks is abundant use of lace. One of the standout looks in this section is multi-lace piece look, a black lace bustier with a matching black lace dress shirt. To finish off the look Ferrè added a tiered lace skirt with tassels detailing each tier. Another standout look in this section is a unique look for the collection. A pale cream silk lace on silk organdy skirt worn with a matching black top and cape detailed with the same cream silk.

While Ferrè experimented with lace in this collection, he also added some of last season’s trends. From the bubble shape being incorporated in small little detailing to an overall bubble look. One of the great trends that Ferrè embraced is the full leg pant. For the evening section Ferrè added some serious color to his romantic lace gowns. The shock of color at the end of the collection is crowning moment for Ferrè. One of the standout looks in the opening section is the lace and crochet gown. Ferrè combined several colors in this look, from lime green to yellow and taupe. The bodice of the gown is layered with yellow crocheted lace and taupe crocheted lace. The flared skirt of the gown is layered with sheer taupe chiffon over a black and white polka dot printed silk. To trim the gown Ferrè combined layers of lime green silk with cream silk lace.

The must have piece from the collection is a combination look. A classic Ferrè white dress shirt worn with one the it accessories Spring/Summer the layered necklace. This look is a classic look for Ferrè, but its timelessness is the key for any wardrobe. It’s sexy, sophisticated and ageless. Ferrè is one of those designers who is not only dedicated to his clientèl but also dedicated to his craft and vision. Season after season he continues to build on his classic look and playing with trends here and there without going overboard. The miss that Ferrè had this season is repeating last season bubble trend for Spring/Summer, although the highlight of the collections is Ferrè’s use of lace. Bravo Monsieur Ferrè!

View complete collection at Wireimage
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December 20, 2006

Milan Women’s S/S 07 – ERMANNO SCERVINO

Designer Ermanno Scervino searched for the young and playful spirit of the sophisticated woman of today. From the opening section to the close Scervino presented a collection of perfectly detailed and crafted looks. First you can easily note the obvious misses like the skinny leg pants and the overused balloon shapes. Then you have to just gush over all the perfect pieces! In the opening section Scervino just served up a plate of you must have this or this or that. Starting off with a palette of natural browns and blushing hews of white. One of the standout looks in the opening section is a khaki brown silk satin skirt. The fabric is laser cut with a lace design and the skirt is worn with a white chiffon petticoat and the look is finished of with a white silk organza v-neck blouse with white floral embroidery detailing the neckline and torso of the blouse. From the brown palette Ermanno moved into a dark palette of black. In this section the standout look is a black balloon shape Capri pant worn with one of Scervino’s must have leather pieces. A cropped waist black leather jacket, the jacket seams and edges are finished with military green suede. The jacket is a mix of the 80’s with military.

From the second section Scervino started to use more lace and played with varying lengths. He also started to add volume to the shapes of each look and mixing in prints to some of the pieces. One of the standout pieces in this section is a white organdy flared skirt with a black floral print screened onto the fabric. Another great skirt look out of this section is the matching brown plaid tweed skirt and overcoat. The skirt is flared with a frayed edge and worn with a white petticoat. The coat adds to the long list of great outwear pieces in this collection. From the trench coats to the biker jackets in leather and suede.

From the black section Scervino moved back into color adding reds and mixing in some whites. Another detail used in this section is more lace while keeping the looks clean. One of the standout pieces form this section is the red tank top dress with a flared skirt. The skirt of the dress is a layering of lace and small ruffles and belted around the waist with a red leather belt. To tone down the vibrant red looks Scervino added in some simple print looks. One of the standout pieces is the small floral print white organdy summer dress, the dress is detailed with beaded and embroidered around the torso of the dress and a white petticoat.

The must have pieces from the collection incorporate two big trends for Spring/Summer. The first must have look is one of the white organdy flared skirt dresses with a black floral print screened onto the skirt of the dress. To top the look off Scervino added a black leather biker jacket; the jacket is laser cut with a diamond design. The other must have piece from the collection is another flared skirt look. This time Scervino incorporated the Spring/Summer trend of the trench coat and morphed it into a dress. The skirt is detailed with laser cut floral design and worn with a white petticoat. The petticoat is certainly another growing trend for Spring/Summer; I expect this new trend will carry us into Fall/Winter. The opening section of the collection is certainly the powerhouse of the collection. Scervino showed a series of strong pieces in some of the prominent looks in the collection. While he used this seasons it color of Gold, for some reason the gold accent pieces were not to brash. A problem that several designers had this season! Overall the collection is a non-stop parade of editorial and retail must haves. Bravo Monsieur Scervino!

View complete collection at Wireimage

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December 09, 2006

Milan Women’s S/S 07 – ICEBERG

At Iceberg designer Paolo Gerani molded the 70’s glitz and glam with the sexy 80’s lengths and colors. Gerani opened the collection with this seasons gold trend with gold tones moving into shocking prints of orange and yellow. While gold may be an “it” shade for the season, the hit looks for Iceberg are all of the bold and vibrant prints, another top trend for Spring/Summer. One of the standout pieces in the opening section is a strapless orange and print swirl print on silk chiffon. The dress is draped and pinned on a bias with a satin and gold chain wrapped around the torso. Another great print from the second section is a yellow and fuscia tropical fern print on silk crepe. The dress is a plunging v-neck cocktail dress worn with a matching belt. Another trend that Gerani kept to this season is the short length dresses and skirts.

In the second section Gerani showed several neutral color looks and then moving back into more gold tones. The standout pieces in the second section were the brown and white tropical print used on chiffon, crepe and satin. One of the key uses of the print is on one of the few outerwear pieces from the collection, a silk satin parka style jacket with balloon shape sleeve. In the third section Gerani again shifts the color palette of all white and then back to yellows and oranges. One of the standout pieces of the white section is another great outwear piece. Another parka style jacket in white silk satin with the sleeves and front panel of the jacket detailed with balloon shapes. While this jacket may be just a little over the top, the key to the Iceberg collection is the unique and salient pieces and looks.

The must have piece of the collection is one of Gerani’s notable print looks, a brown and white tropical print on silk chiffon strapless cocktail dress. The chiffon is draped on a bias with a white satin ribbon and gold chain wrapped around the torso. While Paolo played with the 70’s and 80’s theme in this collection, the result is a modern take on these trends. Gerani’s sexy silhouette is evident in this collection giving the Iceberg customer a reason to dress up but not too audacious. The key looks for Iceberg are the abundant use of color and sexy silhouettes. The only really misses in this collection are the monotone dresses and the some of excessive use of the bubble shape on some of the dresses. Overall for Spring/Summer Iceberg delivers us a vibrant and energetic collection, absent of the drab black many designers are choosing for warm season. Bravo Monsieur Gerani!

View complete collection at Wireimage

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December 08, 2006

Milan Women’s S/S 07 – GENTUCCA BINI

Gentucca Bini’s drew inspiration for Spring/Summer from the lines and shapes of deco design along with a loose form and earthy texture fabrics. An odd combination but the result is a collection of unique and bold Americana style pieces and looks. The color palette is a mixture of greens, browns to oranges and rust. While Bini did use several of last seasons big trends like the bubble shape and hem and even leggings and skinny leg pants. She made sure to move the trend away from the standard design shapes that other designers played with. Bini achieved this fete by draping the shapes on the bias and played with textured fabrics and even shinny fabrics. One of the standout looks in the opening section really exemplifies this idea, a strapless silver/green silk taffeta dress. The dress is loosely tailored around the waist and the hem of the dress is draped with a ruffle on the bias. The look is finished off with a cropped waist brown cashmere cable knit cardigan with a ¾ length sleeve. Another strong piece in the opening section is a brown silk taffeta collarless top with a balloon hem. The piece is worn with a purple silk merino cable knit cardigan that is cropped above the waist.

In the second section Bini showed more knitwear pieces, the emphasis is on the rich knits and rich colors. One of the standout knit pieces from the section is a orange wool and angora blend collarless cardigan. The waist is cropped and cardigan look is finished with a scooped neck brown wool crepe dress. While bundling up last Spring/Summer was a must in many places, Bini seems to have take heart the need for strong color pieces to warm up to. The result is a number of warm pieces that could easily move into the Fall/Winter season. One of the standout outerwear pieces in the collection is a black/gray wool tweed jacket that is trimmed in black wool on the collar and seaming. Giving the jacket a real strong structured look, unfortunately a lot of the design was very unstructured and loose.

One of the must have pieces from the collection is one of Bini’s outerwear pieces, a brown and olive green jacket. The detailing on the waist and lapels of the jacket are the key. Another must have piece or pieces from the collection are the few knit pieces in the collection. Bini choose to show several cropped waist cardigans with ¾ length sleeves. The cardigans were shown in several colors, from chartreuse, orange, pink and two shapes of green. While Bini was really focused on a cleaner palette this season, the direction of the collection was still conscious of her design style. I would like to have seen more shape in the looks while being dedicated to the loose form she strives to create. One of the highlights out of the collection is her outwear and knitwear pieces. While I was on the fence with this collection Bini really gave us a series of non-stop strong pieces. Bravo Madame Bini!

View complete collection at Wireimage

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December 06, 2006

Milan Women’s S/S 07 – AIGNER

Yes trends come and go but some designers seem to play it safe by focusing on the crowning moment or subtle trends that emerge the prior season. If Etienne Aigner was alive today he might be a just a little bit proud that his namesake is charging full steam onto the international market. This season the design team took to heart the 70’s inspiration that Frida Giannini at Gucci paraded for last Fall/Winter. While Gucci was bold and a strong vision, Aigner took the 70’s and showed its softer side. The models did sport Afro’s and the ironed flat hair with the ends teased into volume. The key to the collection is the softness of the fabrics, colors and shapes.

In the opening section, Aigner showed several print looks, a key trend for Spring/Summer. One of the standout prints was a paisley design encased in a heart shape print. The stand out look was the print used on sheer white chiffon blouse with cape sleeve and plunging v-neck line. While Aigner showed several strong trends in this collection there were a few repeat trends that were too many step backwards. Like the skinny leg pants, baby doll dresses and even the hints of arts & crafts. Although there was one piece in the second section that really jumped outside of the arts & crafts trend. A cream crochet mini skirt, the short skirt is certainly a play on the mini trend we are seeing all over the runways.

In the closing section there is one standout piece for day. A cropped safari style jacket in creamy yellow tweed with bone white ribbing and hemming. The jacket is cropped above the waist and the color is done with a wide mandarin shape collar. The only must have piece from the collection is one of the few silk printed chiffon dresses in the collection, a white silk chiffon mini dress with long sleeves and plunging v-neckline. The chiffon is printed with the paisley design in heart shapes. It’s hard for designers to really make sure the overall look and theme of their collection is toned down and the clothes become the focus. This season Aigner really took the whole 70’s look too far with the hair and makeup. The makeup and hair become to much of a distracting rather than a compliment. While there were a few standout pieces in the collection the overall look and statement is lost.

View complete collection at Wireimage

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December 05, 2006

Milan Women’s S/S 07 – EVISU

Monochromatic sophisticate with twist of denim! Designer Hidehiko Yamane’s inspiration this season is all over the place. From this season’s big trend, the print to a lot of denim and even last season’s trench coat. Right from the opening section Yamane jumped into a series of denim looks. While some of the denim looks and pieces were borderline ordinary, there were a few standout denim looks. One of the standout looks is the armless black denim jumpsuit. The bodice of the suit is similar to a tube top. From the denim looks Yamane mixed in several wool suit fabric’s looks; which he plays with draping and structure. One of the key wool looks is a gray wool dress with a plunging neckline. The shoulder straps are finished differently, one with the fabric synched the other lays flat on the shoulder.

In the second section Yamane showed a series of printed silks and satin pieces. Unfortunately, only a few tops rather than dresses. One of the strongest looks in this section was a dragon print on a silk kimono shape wrap jacket. I would like to have seen more printed looks, especially a few cocktail dresses. One of the weak points of the collection is the lack of design continuity. Hidehiko moves from piece to piece with different design theme in each piece. From the kimono style jackets to the 20’s style slip dresses to off the shoulder bias cut dresses from the 70’s. Moving into evening Yamane moved to a black and white palette and focused on a few very loosely tailored silhouettes with emphasis on textile use. One of the standout cocktail dresses form the collection is a reworked 20’s off white silk slip dress with a satin nouveau design on the front of the dress.

The highlight of the collection is not the eveningwear dresses or gowns. Rather the Yamane‘s snowy white outerwear pieces for evening. One of the standout looks was a snow-white wool overcoat with a Peter Pan collar and low riding belt around the hip. The other must have look is one of this season’s must have pieces, the trench for Spring/Summer, a white wool crepe safari style trench coat. The look created both of these outwear looks is a twist on masculine but the overall feel from the collection is very simple and clean. The emphasis is on creating a feminine shell over the masculine pieces. The result is a collection that you can easily over look key pieces. I would like to have seen the collection a little more mixed up, the parade of well manicured looks lacked some personality.

View complete collection at Wireimage

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November 20, 2006

Milan Women’s S/S 07 – AMULETI J

In New York the dance world was a strong inspiration in several collection. Designer Mariella Burani carried the theme into her Spring/Summer collection. The emphasis this season was on the ballet ‘Swan Lake’. The result is a collection that produced a series of unique and couture quality looks. The color palette for the collection is very muted and very simple, a key theme for the ballet inspiration. The heart of the collection is then focused on the quality of the design and the overly structure of the looks. Burani only showed a handful of print looks in the collection. One of the strongest prints is a ‘pond of swans’ two-tone print. One of the standout looks in the first section was the print on a white silk taffeta mandarin collar jacket. The jacket is worn with a mauve chiffon button-front top with embroidery detail on the bottom of the shirt. To finish the look is mauve silk taffeta mini skirt, synched on the sides to create a layered look. Another great print look is the strapless printed silk dress with a bubble hem. The cascading wisteria print on the bodice of the dress is embroidered and detailed with beading. A crowning achievement for the collection!

Post show everyone is still muttering the couture quality of the collection. With a lot of couture fabrics throughout the collection, layered in several dresses and embroidered and detail beading on tops. In the second section and evening section Burani showed a series of standout soft tops embroidered and beaded with floral and architecture design. One of the standout pieces was a sheer cream organza sleeveless top with embroidered floral design on front and back. The top is worn with a short mauve chiffon skirt. The chiffon is layered in a vertical ruffle with clusters of crystal beading as flower sepal. Another strong look is the pleated black chiffon cape dress. The bodice of the dress is beaded in a architecture design.

This being Mariella Burani second Amuleti J collection, it is evident that she has the ability to create and construct outside of the box. Some editors post show commented and argued that he certainly is falling outside of the design element you will find in Milan. While his roots are in Milan, the quality and vision that Mariella Burani inhabits and produces really belongs in Paris. The outerwear pieces through out the collection were also another strong statement in the collection. One of the must have pieces form the collection is the kimono style cream silk jacket. The length of the jacket is cropped and the sleeves are embroidered with a floral design. Another must have piece from the collection is one of the numerous standout tops from the collection. A long-sleeve cream silk chiffon collared blouse. The shoulders of the blouse are open with a large drape in the shape of flower over on shoulder. The look is finished with a pair of cream tuxedo pant; one pant leg is silk crepe while the other is silk brocade. Overall the collection is a parade of pieces and looks that are of museum quality and yet can be worn everyday or every night. Bravo Madame Burani!

View complete collection at Wireimage

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November 18, 2006

Milan Women’s S/S 07 – VALENTIN YUDASHKIN

Sometime the theme of the collection is not so evident, designer Valentin Yudashkin obvious inspiration for Spring/Summer is a youthful woman with emphasis on a little sophistication in the design. Her focus on a younger more sophisticated woman is evident in his key piece for the collection, the little black dress. A trend that is slowly picking up in Milan fresh from the shores of Australia Fashion Week. One of the standout looks in the opening section is a printed black silk chiffon dress with the seams of the dress detailed with a black chiffon ruffle. Yudashkin opened the collection with a dark palette of black but added some of this seasons big trends of beading, embroidery and ruffles. Another standout look in the opening section was a black silk chiffon skirt printed with a floral and butterfly print and detailed with beading. The hem of the skirt plated and finished with a bubble hem.


While Yudashkin played with some of this season new trends he also repeated some from last season. He continues to show a skinny leg pant but she made sure to give her clients varied length from piece to piece, from the mini cocktail dress to the floor length evening gown. Another highlight to the collection was the large number of prints in the collection. For evening she showed a handful of printed silk gowns. The standout gown is a printed black silk halter-top floor length gown. The silk is printed with a floral and butterfly print and Yudashkin subtly beaded the print to give it a slight sparkle for evening. Valentin seemed to be keeping the flash and pomp down in the collection but he did have a few pieces that were very showy and eye catching. In the third section one cocktail dress really went beyond the restraint. The result a beautiful sequin cocktail dress, a two-tone silk crepe shell of pale nude and dusty rose covered in clear sequins. The neckline and straps of the dress is finished with a strip of crystal-beaded flowers. A great couture style piece and dress you can easily wear more than once. All of his cocktail dresses are really young and playful with an accent of sophistication, a powerful look for women of any age.

Combinations, the strongest statement taken from the collection. Mixing and matching pieces like long flowey tops and dresses worn over denim pants. Yudashkin really understands that women today need validation for the 20-30 pairs of jeans they have in their closet. One of the must have looks from the collection is one of these looks. A pale blue silk and ecru chiffon wrap dress worn over a pair of denim pats. On the other side of the spectrum of the collection is another must have look. A pale cream trench coat worn with a pale cream silk chiffon summer dress with a soft flora print on the chiffon. The hem of the dress is finished with a small channel ruffle. Both looks really stand for the collection that Yudashkin created a young everyday and every night collection. The options are endless and the classics were just paraded down the runway. Valentin’s detailed eye for the woman today is evident in this collection. Bravo Monsieur Yudashkin!

View complete collection at Wireimage

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November 17, 2006

Milan Women’s S/S 07 – GUCCI

One of the continuing trends season after season is fashion rewind. Last season designer Frida Giannini rewind the fashion clock at Gucci to the 70’s and this season she rolled back to the 60’s. The look and inspiration is a very monochromatic color palette with shocks of reds, purples, and silver here and there. Giannini’s focus in terms of inspiration this season is the prints used on several looks. While she kept to a skinny leg pant this season she did show a lot of short length dresses. One of the standout pieces in the opening section is one of the bold prints she used throughout the opening section. The key to this dress is the color combination, mixing red with burgundy and purple. The dress length is short and finished with a belt around the torso.

Most of the editors were raving about these bold color pieces and looks post-show. While I loved the color in the first section, one section I think will be overlooked by editors is the 60’s geometric print looks. The prints were a combination of a honeycomb design and geometric fan shapes. One of the standout looks in this section is mini a-line dress. The dress incorporates both prints, the fan print use for the bust line of the dress and the honeycomb print for the high waist skirt section. For evening Giannini goes long showing a series of floor length gowns. One of the standout looks in the evening section is a reworked classic paisley Gucci print on black silk. The dress has a full skirt and halter-top neckline. The dress is finished with bands of purple and red around the halter and waistline.

There were two must have looks from this collection. First is one of the 60’s geometric print looks. A classic a-line mini dress with a honeycomb design done in metallic silver. The other must have piece from the collection is one of Giannini’s leather jackets. The jacket is black suede with a black snakeskin detailing the jacket. The snakeskin is used to create a 60’s architecture line design on the bodice and sleeves. The jacket is tailored close to the waist and pinned with one of Giannini’s wide belts in purple. For her junior collection Gucci, Frida Giannini returned to the dark and masculine womenswear of the Tom Ford days but she adds her take on the Gucci woman. The key pieces to the collection are Frida’s print dresses and gowns. Her ability to re-master prints from the Gucci archives is amazing. Friday is proving to be the right fit for the house of Gucci. Not since Ford has the brand had such great understanding of the brand the look the customer depends on. Bravo Madame Giannini!

View complete collection at Wireimage

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November 16, 2006

Milan Women’s S/S 07 – ANNA MOLINARI

For Spring/Summer 2007 designer Anna Molinari keeps her collection very young and very feminine, a classic theme for Molinari. While Molinari plays with a lot of last seasons big trends, the ruffle. She gave the trend a new life by giving it a new color palette. In the opening section one of the standout looks was a pale cream satin finish silk taffeta skirt. The skirt is trimmed with ruffles and drapes of ruffles around the waist and front of the skirt. The look is finished with pale cream silk taffeta long sleeve dress shirt. This look was a crowning moment in the opening of the collection, another trend that Molinari continued to use was the skinny leg pant.

In the second section Molinari focused on the detailing on several dresses. The detailing ranged from synching to embroider adding more movements and effects to each look. One of the standout looks in this section was a cream silk velvet dress. The waist and skirt of the dress is synched velvet and the velvet is draped below the breast line and up to the shoulder of the dress. To finish the dress Molinari use a pale taupe bustier and to finish the shoulder she used pale taupe chiffon. The hem of the dress is finished with frayed white chiffon that looks like feathers. Another great synched look in the second section is cream silk satin cocktail dress with the sides of the dress synched. The hem of the dress is finished with a tier of ruffled taupe silk chiffon over a tier of frayed silk cream chiffon.

The must have pieces from the collection are two of Molinari’s evening looks. First is the black silk chiffon cocktail dress; the dress is covered with a embroidered vine and flower design in black. The embroidery is detailed with appliqués giving the design a 3-D effect. The look finished with a cropped jacket made up of black silk taffeta rosettes. The other must have look from the collection is another Molinari’s rosette looks. An a-line dress covered with taupe silk crepe rosettes worn with a matching cropped jacket covered in matching rosettes. While the color pallet is very toned down, a lot of whites, taupe’s and creams. The overall look of the collection is soft and feminine and the absence of metallic and bold color was actually a breathe of fresh air this season. The result is a standout collection in a season of prints and color. Bravo Madame Molinari!

View complete collection at Wireimage

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November 15, 2006

Milan Women’s S/S 07 – ANGELO MARANI

Designer Angelo Marani’s theme this season was more glitz, more color and more glam. Marani also took a lot of inspiration from the 70’s using gold lame and leopard and tiger prints, a trend that we are seeing very often in NY and London. One of the strongest trends that Marani took to heart this season were prints. The playful theme of his prints this season is games, from crossword puzzles to card games. One of the standout looks in the opening section was a cards and joker print on pale green silk dress. To finish off the look Marani showed a gray wool jacket with a metallic weave in the fabric. The jacket is tightly tailored with a square off shoulder. Another great piece from the opening section is a crossword puzzle print on silk chiffon blouse. The neckline of the blouse is finished with a band of yellow/gold sequins and the sleeves are draped with a wide opening. The look is finished with a pair of the skinny leg pants that Marani used through out the collection. I would like to have seen more looser fit pants.

In the second section turned up his use of prints and started to add more beading and more sheer fabrics. One of the standout pieces from this section is a black sheer organdy top draped over one shoulder. The top the playing cards and joker print is silk-screened onto the organdy and beading is used to detail the print and on the trim of the piece. The look is finished with one of this seasons big trends the mini skirt. Marani continued to use this print and beading into the evening section. One of the standout pieces was a floor length gown with a plunging v-neckline. The beading trims the neckline and straps of the gown.

The must have pieces form the collection are actually two animal print looks. First is the black silk chiffon blouse with a cheetah print done in gold. While I have frowned on the whole cheetah and leopard prints this season. These pieces just proved to me you could really make a cheetah print sexy and classy. The other must have piece is floor length over one should gown of black silk organdy. The organdy is has a tiger print design on the fabric. The print is a combination of gold and black paint and gold sequins. Color, color, color, lots of colors in this collection! The mixing and matching of color is very careful, although I found there to be too many gold pieces in the collection. One of the over the top pieces throughout the collection were the gold leggings. The shape seems to be all over the place, from loosely tailored dresses and tops to skinny leg pants and mini skirts. Although Marani did keep true to his sexy shape and detailing he kept true to the fundamental look of Milan Fashion Week. Bravo Monsieur Marani!

View complete collection at Wireimage

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November 13, 2006

Tokyo Women’s S/S 07 – G.V.G.V.

Sitting at the G.V.G.V. show was like being at Valentino collection in Paris. Designer MUG’s vision and skill is very close to the man who has defined refined clothing for over 40 years. For Spring/Summer MUG adopted everything Valentino from the red lips to the feminine silhouettes accented by layers of ruffles. In opening section there were several 70’s halter-top inspired looks with a ruffle trim. Then all of a sudden he switched to a series of 50’s gamine dresses and then to an 80’s blue leather matching jacket and skirt look. One of this season growing trends appeared in a handful of pieces, lace, which MUG really created several feminine looks. One of the best looks was a floor length lace and chiffon gown. The top of the gown is off the shoulder and a single layer of ruffled lace. Reminds me of the 70’s prom dresses seen in “Footloose”. Another great trend that MUG played with was prints. He showed a series of floral printed crepe summer dresses. One dress that really stood out was navy blue floral print crepe dress with a burgundy floral print on chiffon used as a ruffle trim around the halter-top and the hem of dress.

In the second section MUG played with a tailoring in his looks along with trends of ruffles and the bubble. One of the most striking pieces in this section was a gray moiré dress that is tailored with a masculine silhouette with feminine accents. MUG trimmed the shoulders of the dress and strip on top of the hip with ruffles. The ruffle is done in gray moiré and lined with a floral printed silk. This look along was a crowning moment for MUG. His level of tailoring and constraint is evident in this piece. A stunning piece! A great accessory idea from the collection is all the little red or gold heart pendants. Reminds me of the little ceramics hearts that used to be sent with the “Care Bear” dolls during the 80’s.

The must have piece from the collection is one of MUG’s lace looks. A white lace dress with a fanned lace used on the bodice of the dress and two tiers of ruffles cascading from the waist. The top is worn with a two layer skirt of cream linen over a layer of white chiffon. One of the great things about this collection is that MUG exhibits a lot restraint in his creative process. Giving each look just enough but not too little. Bravo Monsieur MUG!

View complete collection at Wireimage

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November 10, 2006

London Women’s S/S 07 – BORA AKSU

For Spring/Summer designer Aksu looks to Paris couture for inspiration, everything from Safari to Fairies and even ‘Blade Runner’. The emphasis this season is on a shorter look that is built with structure. This focus can easily fall towards a modern and minimal look, but Aksu steered away from that path. The opening section was a play on the safari look with a focus on a lighter and shorter look. The results are some of the best pieces from London fashion week. In the opening section the standout pieces were the outerwear pieces. One the best pieces were a white canvas safari jacket that cropped above the waist. The jacket lapels are wide and drape over the shoulder. Detailing the jacket he used the shell of a Converse high top as the opening of the jacket. Another great look from the opening section another piece that incorporated Aksu’s Converse shell. The dress is a white sheer chiffon tank dress with Converse shell used on the front of the dress and the laces are crisscrossed in the front.

In the second section played a little with the deconstruction design that many Parisian designers have mastered. One of the standout pieces in this section is a sleeveless leather jacket that has been built with single straps for the collar and bodice of the jacket. The waistline of the jacket is a leather corset that connects the bodice of the jacket. Moving into the evening section Aksu started add some color to the collection with some rosy reds, purples and burgundy’s. One of the standout looks in the evening section is knee length cocktail dress. The dress is made up of a muted purple silk satin shell draped with dark burgundy and blood red silk crepe on either side of the dress. The straps and below the neckline are detailed with beading.

The two must have pieces from the collection are from the closing and second collection. First is the white silk organdy jacket with a band of silk taffeta hemming the sleeve and hem of the jacket. The collar and opening of the jacket are lined with the cream taffeta and the collar drapes down to the hem of the jacket. The other must have look is one of Aksu’s beaded evening dresses. The dress is a silk knit shell that is layered with strands of braids around waist. The skirt of the dress is embellished with silver and gray beading. The absence of a strong evening section was felt by many editors but he showed several strong pieces through out the collection. You can easily pick and choose from the entire collection. By the end of the show the Converse shells seamed to be over used. I was really moved by Aksu’s ability to craft and build each look. The lacking part of this collection is structure of the whole look Bora Aksu is trying to convey on the runway.

View complete collection at Wireimage

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November 09, 2006

London Women’s S/S 07 – HAMISH MORROW

Designer Hamish Morrow’s color palette for Spring/Summer is very dark and very earthy. The focus and inspiration is the Japanese shape and structure. The opening section was a series of pale burgundy and brown looks. The shape in the opening section is very short and emphasis on a plunging or open neckline. Unfortunately this combination of short and bare really gave the looks a knock down on the taste level. In the second section Morrow started to really play with outerwear and the masculine look. One of the standout pieces in the second section is a matching skirt suit. The jacket is collarless and has a skinny arm fit and the opening is clean with no detailing. The font of the matching skirt detailed with fabric draped and overlapped creating a large ruffle shape on the front. Another strong look from the second section is one of the few lace pieces I n this collection. While most of the collection is very minimal and modern, Morrow showed a few very delicate lace pieces in the collection. The standout piece is the burgundy floral lace top with a bubble shape shoulder and the lace is detailed with beading and purple satin ribbon.

The must have pieces from the collection are two outerwear pieces from the collection, Morrow showed several strong outerwear pieces, these two really defined the statement and look that Hamish was creating for Spring/Summer. The first must have piece is cream color collarless jacket with detailed ribbing that really gives the jacket a safari look. A strip of fabric is used to pull up the sleeves. The other must have piece is a olive/brown jacket. The jacket is constructed with several drapes of fabric run from sleeve to sleeve around the collar of the jacket. The draped fabric then runs down the front of the jacket. What is really out there in this collection is Morrow’s venture into the modern world of structured design. One of the highlights of this collection is there are certainly some strong outerwear pieces in the collection. Unfortunately I would like to have seen more adventure or risk in the collection outside of the lace pieces.

View complete collection at Wireimage

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November 08, 2006

London Women’s S/S 07 – TATA NAKA

Harlequins and Gymnastics were the inspiration but it’s the playful prints and soft pieces that really jumped around at Tata Naka. While twin sisters Tamara & Natasha Surguladze focus was on geometric shapes of the harlequin costumes in the opening section. What is more distracting is the simplicity of the design and construction. In the second section Tamara & Natasha started to really breakaway from the opening look and start adding more playful prints and started to soften the design of the looks to tone down the bold prints. One of the standout looks in the opening section is a black and white prints knee length dress with short bell-shape sleeves. The neckline of the dress wide and scooped, the wide neckline really compliments the print. Another great wide-neckline look was the rhythmic gymnast print dress with a geometric aqua print sleeves. The look is finished a pair of geometric aqua print leggings.

In the second section Surguladze sisters started to use more prints and showed sever all prints looks. The prints are creative; several of the all print looks were just too loud. There were two real standout looks in the second section. First is the aqua geometric print on silk chiffon halter strap summer dress. The dress is finished with a pair white baby shorts and aqua knee-high stockings. The other look is a standing gymnast print on white silk satin sleeveless dress. The look finished with a white crepe jacket with tiers of ruffles and white embroidery detailing the sleeves and bodice. As the second section progressed the looks became more soft and flow-y. This lightness was focused on the tops and outerwear. From the short sleeve tops finished with ruffles to the printed bubble shape shoulder jackets.

For the third section Natasha & Tamara transitioned the fabrics from bold printed fabrics to couture fabrics with very matte design and colors. From the crisp white organza to the delicates laces and silk satins. One of the strongest looks in this section is a gray silk jersey top with white organza long sleeves with embroidery detail on the outside of the sleeve. The look is finished with an orange print pleated taffeta mini-skirt and a park of the aqua geometric print leggings. Another great look from this section uses the standing gymnast print on both the jacket and dress. The dress is a white organza shell with tiered lace spaced down the dress and the print used for the bust line. The print is used for the bodice of the jacket while the sleeves are white organza with lace ruffle finishing off the short sleeve and a lace panel draped over the shoulder.

For evening the sisters loosened the shape of the looks. Two of the must have looks from the collection. First is the white organza A-line baby doll dress with bubble shape sleeves. The other must have look is the white silk organdy dress with long white organza sleeves with ruffle detailing running the length of the sleeve. Both looks are very soft and a stark contrast to the bold prints they showed. The emphasis this season at Tata Naka is color and bold prints. What is great about this collection there are so many unique pieces that one can keep and wear any season. The key look from the collection is absent of color. The closing looks of white organza and organdy really took this collection to another level. Bravo Mademoiselle Surguladze & Mademoiselle Surguladze!

View complete collection at Wireimage

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November 07, 2006

London Women’s S/S 07 – GARDEM

Designer Garen Demedijan’s distinctive eye for structure and definition is mixed with modern concepts for his Spring/Summer collection. In the opening section Demedijan showed a series of all white and all black looks. Each look incorporating shiny and soft fabrics likes crepes, lace and satin. With trends like ruffles and lace hitting all the capital runways, Gardem embraced these trends and mixed and reworked classic trends like ruffles on different angles and uncommon placement. In the opening section there were only a few strong pieces. One the most daring pieces in this section is the all black silk satin wrap dress over a matching pair of black silk satin pants. One of weakest looks in the opening was a tiered ruffle look.

In the second section Demedijan really started to let loose on reworking trends. One of the strongest trends he played was the bubble shape. In which he played with the bubble shape and the bubble hem, the detail of the bubble is toned down in some looks. On of the strongest looks that incorporated the bubble was a black silk satin dress with a pleated waistline and an organ-pleated bodice. The hem of the skirt is deflated bubble hem and the waist of the dress is covered with a fan design waist corset with beading. The look is finished with a silk knit cardigan with a lace and embroidery appliqué around the collar. Another strong look from the second section is a new trend for Gardem, the Corset. The look is a soft brown silk satin and silk chiffon dress. The chiffon and satin are pieced together on a modern bias with the bodice of the dress constructed with a satin bodice. A very modern piece, but the busyness of the construction is toned down by the soft brown fabrics.

In the third section Demedijan’s focus was on outerwear looks. Showing a series of short dress and skirt looks with a matching jacket or coat. One of the standout pieces in this section is white long sleeve jacket with lace detailing. The seaming of the jacket is detailed with two black laces and black sheer silk ribbon is laid on the jacket to create more lines. A unique piece from the collection and one of my favorites! Another great outerwear piece is a black leather version of the white jacket. The black leather seaming is detailed with black silk lace and ribbon.

There is one must have look and one must have piece from the collection. The must have piece is a white silk crepe knee length skirt overlaid with a black paisley design lace fabric. The hem of skirt is trimmed with a black silk satin. The must have look from the collection is pale peach silk satin skirt with the hem of skirt pinned along the sides creating a modern shape. The skirt is detailed with tiers of 3 different black laces and the waist of the skirt is synched creating ripple on the fabric. The look is finished with one of Demedijan’s black fan waist corsets and black silk satin blouse. The blouse is detailed with panels of synched and wrinkled fabric the drapes over the corset. For Spring and Summer designer Garen Demedijan looks to move forward with his detailed eye creating one of the stronger collection at London Fashion Week. Bravo Monsieur Demedijan!

View complete collection at Wireimage

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November 02, 2006

Tokyo Women’s S/S 07 – POTTO

Draping, balloon shapes, ruffles and Mylar wrapped shoes, how off the wall can a Japanese show get? Designer Tetsuya Yamamotos’ all white collection for Spring/Summer 07’ took a leap into the playing with draping and creating sexy weightless shapes. Tetsuya’s focus of the draped structure was constructed with knots, synching and pinning. One look that really stood out in the opening section that incorporated this focus. Was the white silk charmeuse dress that is knotted on one shoulder and draped and pinned into balloon shapes on the other shoulder.

The must have piece from the collection is one of few lace pieces in the collection. The piece is a white lace camisole top with a balloon shape hem. The top is long in the back and worn with a full leg pant that was shaped more like a bell-bottom. A lot of the collection was a series of looks that were just fabric draped on the model with a lot of flattering shapes and intriguing linings. The wearable factor of the whole collection is a little low. Although there are a few individual pieces that are great finds like the lace pieces.

View complete collection at Wireimage

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October 25, 2006

Toky Women’s S/S 07 – OHYA

American Sportswear rains on the designer Hiroaki Ohya’s womenswear collection for OHYA. While the mens was simple in design, Ohya focused on a combination of Japanese structure with classic American sportswear pieces. He showed several monogrammed shirts and short skirts and dresses. The strongest looks from the collection are Ohya’s draped volume looks and deconstructed structure. In the opening section the designer showcased a lot of the American sportswear inspired look and into the second section he moved into his traditional Japanese modern minimalism and volume. One of the strongest looks from the opening section was a white starched linen shirt-dress with a layered collar that drapes down the front.

Ohya played with a few of this season’ trends but some of the pieces we to far of a reach into the trends. Like the jersey knit pants with a balloon shape leg. A lot of the evening looks are made up of zipper detailed dresses in all black. The must have look from the collection is a layered black tweed and jersey look. The skirt is a diagonal panel tweed skirt with a ruffle trim on the hem worn over a matching jersey skinny pant. The look is completed with a black jersey tank and a black jersey jacket with the opening of the jacket and the color trimmed with a ruffle. Overall the collection gives a new perspective to the sportswear look but the lack of morphing the two design aesthetics into one look.

View complete collection at Wireimage

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October 10, 2006

Australia Women’s S/S 07 – WRAP UP

Australia Fashion Week is blossoming into a great venue for new talent. There were several designers during the week that really brought a sense of style and uniqueness to fashion. While many designers played with some of last seasons trends and even took on some new one’s. You can easily see that the designers are focused on building their looks and style around there own individual philosophy. One the blessings of Australia Fashion Week is the absence of the abundant attendance of the celebrity guests. While there was a handful at each show, the front row was dominated by industry leaders rather than the celebrity.

One of the strongest trends out of Australia is the full leg pant, which several designers showed exclusively while others mixed the full leg pant with dying skinny leg pant trend. Two designers that really embraced the full leg pant were Chitra’s Closet and Leonard Street. Designer Amanda McCarthy’s full leg pant was a straight drop from the waist. Her look is very relaxed and she showed the pants in several plaid fabrics. At Chitra’s Closet, designer Chitra Mangma’s focus was on a more tailored pant in heavy fabrics.


From Fall/Winter the bubble is moving south – to the hem that is. Even San Francisco designers have moved the bubble shape south for the Spring. Designer Anna Thomas’s focus was on knits and prints this season, but she played with length and finish details like the bubble hem. While designers Crabb and Miraudo reworked the bubble hem at Under Constructions. The duo kept to loose construction and added volume to the skirt hem.


This season knitwear took of at the menswear collections in Paris and Milan. Only a few designers at Australia Fashion Week played with the new trend. One of common knitwear themes carrying from capital to capital is knit cardigans. Designer Alex Zabotto-Bentley showed a few knit pieces one the standout pieces was olive green cashmere cardigan. While Designer Olivia Reeve-Hart showed a series of soft and tailored knit dresses and skirt. One of her top looks is a long sleeve cashmere knit dress with a rolled neckline that is draped low. To finish off her knit looks she showed several double leather belts.



Lengths go up and then they go down, overall, designers show all sorts of lengths from season to season. This season designers are focused on a knee length look that is more tailored and certainly sexier. At Designer Belinda Fairbanks show her knit dresses varied in length but the showstopper was her long sleeve red cashmere dress. While at Dhini designer Dhini Pararajasingham focused on separates for Spring/Summer. Her crowning look is her flared hem pencil skirt with the seam of the skirt finished with a ruffle.


An interesting trend at the Australian shows was the return of the little black dress. For the Australian designers the key pieces to their collection was the little black dress. Practically all of the womenswear designers had at least one black dress in their collection. For designer Anna Thomas she kept to a simple design with her boxy cut black dress with a black silk satin mandarin sachet tied around the waist. For designer Amanda McCarthy, she brought together this seasons balloon shape and ruffles and crafted two really strong black looks. The key look was a balloon shape skirt black dress with the top of the dress finished with a draped look.


Another great trend that we are seeing a little more from each fashion week to the next is embroidery and beading. At Australia fashion week only a few designer showed embroidered and beaded looks. Two designers really embraced the strong statement in their collections. At the Narendra Kumar show, Kumar took embroidery and mixed it with silk-screening in both of her menswear and womenswear. The strongest embroidered look was the white silk chiffon mandarin collar blouse with floral pattern embroidered on the bodice of the blouse and the long sleeves. One of my favorites piece from Australia fashion week is Toni Maticevski’s cream silk crepe sheath dress overlaid with a white organza shell covered with a embroidered and beaded lily of the valley. The organza shell has a cape shaped back while the cream crepe dress is tailored close the waist. A Stunning Look!


Print’s, print’s and more print’s – the more the better! Prints have certainly rained on the Spring/Summer collections. Practically every designer at Australia fashion week had some sort of print in his or her collections. Designers moved between two major print themes this season. From the 70’s earthy color prints at Narendra Kumar and Toni Maticevski, to the vibrant floral prints at Fashionassassin, Dhini and Ananaya.




The crowning trend from Australia Fashion week is one of the lesser roads taken for Spring. Plaids, several designers did not use the strong print but the few who did really gave it some gravitas. From Chitra’s Closet where the plaid took on new life along with full shape looks and even a twist mixed with Windsor check pieces. Then onto Anna Thomas whose plaid wide-pleated skirts gave you a more a fall fell to her Spring looks!



[images viaWireimage.com] & Australian Vogue]

October 04, 2006

Australia Women’s S/S 07 – LEONARD STREET

Designer Amanda McCarthy was all over the place this season with her inspirations for Spring/Summer 07’. The looks incorporated a variation proportions and lengths, from the 40’s pencil skirt to Kate Hepburn’s 30’s full pant leg look. She even added some playful pieces like her 80’s style jersey dresses. Although the collection seemed to be all over the place McCarthy showed a handful of smashing pieces in the collection. Two of the strongest trends that McCarthy played with is this season were full leg pants and plaids. One of the strongest plaid pieces was a Windsor check full leg pant worn with a mandarin collar dress shirt. One of the strongest plaid looks in the opening section was a Windsor check style plaid print dress worn with red turtleneck with a gathered neckline. The crowning piece to this look is the cream wool cropped sleeve and waist jacket. The collar of the jacket is wide and drapes down the bottom of the jacket.

There were two must have looks from the collection that incorporate great pieces form the collection. The first look is one the top plaid pieces from the collection, a red plaid long sleeve jacket that is cropped above the waist. The jacket was paired with a safari yellow jersey pencil skit. The other must have look is the black plaid wool pant with a straight full leg. To finish the look McCarthy tailored wool knit collarless jacket with bottom of the jacket cropped above the breast line. While Amanda’s Spring/Summer collection for Leonard Street is very colorful and alive, it’s her construction that really stands out in the collection. I was really excited that she really embraced the full leg pant trend and gave us some the strongest and unique pant looks from Australia Fashion Week. Bravo Madame McCarthy!

View complete collection at Australian Vogue

[images viaAustralian Vogue]

Australia Women’s S/S 07 – OLIVE

With the theme of the seven sins you are really opening up your collection to a broad spectrum of interpretations. Designer Olivia Reeve-Hart inspirations seemed to be lacking in the looks as they hit the runway. She did use a lot of last seasons trends incorporated into her tailored pieces, from ruffles to balloon shapes. Some of the strongest trends that Hart presented this season were prints and knits. The key look she used through out the collection was a long skirt or dress. One of the standout pieces in the opening section was white long sleeve cashmere knit dress. The neckline of the dress rolled and draped and the hem is below the knee. To finish of the look Hart added a double belt above the waist.

Another strong look from the collection is the ankle length two-piece dress. Hart combines one of her bold prints with long sleek black ankle length skirt. She layered the look with the ankle length printed dress under the black cotton voile shell, which starts under the breast line. The neckline is wide and synched giving the print fabric more texture. The must have piece from the collection is Hart’s gray cashmere blend cable knit pencil skirt. The skirt look is finished with a sleeveless printed silk crepe blouse and the torso is belted with a double leather strap belt. The overall look that Hart was creating in this collection was to simple and too clean. Although Hart showed several strong knit looks in this collection, the remainder of the collection is a jersey nightmare.

View complete collection at Wireimage

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October 03, 2006

Australia Women’s S/S 07 – SONAM DUBAI

For his Spring/Summer 07’ collection designer Sonam Dubai looked an Asian influence for vision of his collection. In the opening section Dubai showed a series of looks that incorporated a lot of outerwear pieces. Two of the continuous looks he used were the Buddhist prayer coat and mandarin collar jackets. Several of these looks were overworked or not paired with the right pieces. The combination of fabrics Dubai used was odd; some of the prints and embroideries were not paired properly. Some looks were over layered creating a funky look. But if you look at the looks from the buyer perspective you will find some great pieces. One of the strongest pieces in the opening section was a black and dusty rose-stripped wrap. Dubai pieced the two fabrics together with a quilting stitch.

The highlight pieces from the collection are some of the mandarin collar jacket later in the collection. Dubai used a lot of prints and embellishments on these jackets that gives life to the overall look. The two must have pieces from the collection are two of these jackets. First is the pink lotus flower print jacket, the print covers the whole jacket and the buttons done with a pink silk satin. The other must have jacket is the black mandarin collar jacket that is covered with embroidery and fabric rose petals in pink and black and white. The delicate application of the fabric petals gives the jacket a real feminine look in black. The inspiration for the collection is certainly taken from the continental culture of china and Tibet. While some of the fabrics and prints are striking the combination of the fabrics is really off.

View complete collection at Wireimage

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October 02, 2006

Australia Women’s S/S 07 – MELLY MAK

Construction, Construction, Construction! Melly Mak seems to be focused on a monochromatic palette and a lot of vertical and horizontal lines in the designs. With a lot of black and white throughout the collection, Mak splashes red here and there. The designs are very simple in structure but she played with a lot of draping through out the collection. One of the standout pieces earlier in the collection was red strapless top worn with a black balloon shape hem dress. The top shell is very simple in design finished the top with a kimono wrap look. She added strips of matching red fabric trimmed with a black satin ribbon, crisscrossing the top vertically and horizontally.

The must have piece from the collection was black and white dress that I call the flirty dominatrix dress. A black cotton voile wide set spaghetti strap dress that is draped with bands of black bands of black voile trimmed with a white satin ribbon. The dress is covered with several bands of fabric draped from front to back in one drop. Out of all the dresses in the collection this dress moved, and it moved with the model. Of coarse it does not hurt to finish the look with a pair of black satin gloves and leather whip! There were very few strong looks in this collection but I found that as the collection progressed Mak was gradually over draping some of their pieces. She also added more cinching and ruffles to her collection, which really did not work with her minimalist construction. I would like to have seen Mak explore a little more with her vision for Spring/Summer, she seemed to be trapped with her minimalism vision. One of the strong points to the collection was Mak’s attention to the little unique details on each look.

View complete collection at Wireimage

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October 01, 2006

Australia Women’s S/S 07 – ANANYA

Bombay based Nandita Mahtani looked to Morocco this season for her inspiration. Mahtani showed sever tunic style looks from the opening to the end of the collection. In the opening section Nandita keep the looks very clean in design with very little of embellishments and she played with lengths. One of the stronger looks in the opening section is one of her shocking splashes of color in the collection. A vibrant hot pink short tunic dress, which Mahtani trimmed the plunging v-neckline with multi-color beading. The look is finished with a swirl bead design belt. Another great look from the opening section is the white lace tunic that is hemmed above the knee.

The must have pieces from the collection are two more dresses which she played with one of this seasons big trends and one from last season. While Mahtani showed only a handful of prints in her collection what Nandita was focused on was giving the prints a bold color pallet. The first must have piece is a pink and fuchsia mum print tunic dress; the dress is short with a flared sleeve from the shoulder. The other must have piece is the gold honeycomb brocade strapless dress with a tied waist. While Mahtani showed a large selection of dresses in her collection, I would like to have seen more pant looks in her collection. The only piece in the collection that was a little out of place was the last model that was wearing a skinny jean and knit on knit top. I am hesitant to say that the model was wearing her own clothes and the dresser forgot to put on her clothes or the model was just spaced out. Bravo Madame Mahtani!

View complete collection at Wireimage

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Australia Women’s S/S 07 – NARENDRA KUMAR

From silkscreen prints and embroidery in the mens collection Kumar adds beading to her womenswear line. For the opening of the collection played with different shapes for several cocktail dresses looks. She also played with fabric combinations and beadwork in very bold colors. One of the standout looks in this section was the Moroccan inspired spaghetti strap dress. The bodice of the dress is detailed with Moroccan designs detailed with channel beading to coin size paelets. The hem of the dress is finished with a ruffle. Another standout piece in the opening section was another spaghetti strap cocktail dress a brocade fabric bust line and a 70’s wave print on silk satin used for the skirt of the dress.

The must have piece from the collection is the white silk crepe blouse with a mandarin collar and the cuff of the sleeve and the bottom of the blouse flared into a ruffle. A column of floral embroidery runs vertically while rings of the embroidery finishes the sleeve horizontally. Decadence at its best, Kumar has an eye and skill for embroidery. This collection along with her mens, expresses her ability to create to complete looks for two completely different sexes. Bravo Madame Kumar!

View complete collection at Wireimage

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September 28, 2006

Australia Women’s S/S 07 – Davis Eyes & A.N.G.E.L

You mix McQueen, Jeremy Scott and a little Heatherette in a bowl and what do you get? Justin Davis and his label Davis Eyes & A.N.G.E.L. In the opening section Davis sent out a series of cult looks that mix the pop world with the modern jersey looks Norma Kamali. The combination of fabrics Davis used in these looks did not complete the looks or the overall feeling of the collection. While there was a rocker chick feel to the collection, piece after piece the show was a parade of the same look. The first two looks to open the collection were a brocade dress and skirt/top combination. There were too many types of brocade used in each of these garments. One of the standout pieces in the opening section was the cream jersey mini dress with long sleeves and band of gold brocade fabric trimming the hem of the dress.

The must have piece from the collection is the strapless purple pop print dress with a ruffled hem. Take the hot pink and purple drape below the waist and you have a cute dress, less is more when the look is more on more. At the close of the collection I was a little confused with the last look, a model walked out with the crotch of her leggings hanging between her legs. You can see the play with lines in several of the looks but Davis is to focused on making each look unique that she did not realize that there is no real fluid design from one look to another. In the end I would love to have seen more loud prints from Davis and less of the minimalism.

View complete collection at Vogue Australia

[images via Australian Vogue]

September 27, 2006

Australia Women’s S/S 07 – CHITRA’S CLOSET

Designer Chitra Mangma tends to steer clear of a flashy fashion design when creating her collection. This season Mangma opened her collection with a series of dress looks done in a very simply boxy shape and in a dark color palette. My first reaction to the opening was the looks were to frumpy and effortless. For the second section Mangma started to add more color as well as some prints. This move away from boxy design resulted in some really tailored and feminine looks. On of these standout looks were the Windsor check baggy leg pedal pushers. Chitra used two different Windsor check prints to detail the pant cuffs and sides. The look was completed with a cape shape red wool jacket and black and white print blouse with copper satin ribbon detailing.

The must have pieces from the collection are two pant looks. First is the pleated full leg Windsor check dress slack with a matching draped sleeve jacket. The other must have look is the olive green and black Windsor check full leg slack worn with a olive green short sleeve jacket. The jacket is made of a green knit fabric that is detailed with black satin ribbon square weave and the lapel are lined with a pinstripe fabric. While these 3 looks really stood out in the middle of the collection, Mangma swung back to the boxy structured looks for the close of the collection. Those three looks in the middle of the collection is proof that Mangma has the talent. One of the things she needs to steer from is abundance of different fabrics used in a single look. In the two Windsor check print looks Mangma exhibited the ability of constraint.

View complete collection at Vogue Australia

[images via Australian Vogue]

Australia Women’s S/S 07 – SHOW OFF

Designers Ashley Harrison and Peggy Monikos took inspiration from Audrey Hepburn in the 50’s and mixed it a little of “Petticoat Junction”. The combination is full endless possibilities of frills and girly details mixed with a clean lines and masculine shapes. In the opening section the duo showed leggings with several looks although there was only one print used in the whole collection. One the standout looks in the opening section was a crisp clean white dress with a dress shirt collar and little ballooned sleeves finished with a ruffle. The fabric used for the dress is white cotton voile with an embroidered dot on the fabric.

The overall statement of the collection is a strong but demure woman in very clean and simple designs. There is some details in the looks but overall Harrison and Monikos were grabbing at a style not their own. They duo got lost in the design references and forgot to give the looks their design aesthetic to tie the collection together, leggings is not a aesthetic! One of the must have looks from the collection is the long sleeve black jersey mini dress with the hem of the skirt, belted waist and neckline finished with a cream cotton voile. While there were a few standout looks in the collection, I would like to have seen more length in the collection. Most of the skirts were short or knee length.

View complete collection at Vogue Australia

[images via Australian Vogue]

September 25, 2006

Australia Men’s S/S 07 – MAYSON

For his Spring/Summer 2007 collection designer Jake Mason abandoned his abundant use of color for a dark palette. In the opening section Mason showed a number of looks that are common stock for menswear today. Everything from skinny leg pants to hooded coats. One pant trend that I saw in San Francisco and again at Mayson is the low crotch pant. A trend I hope will not translate further. Mason did however touch on the whole print craze this season, offering his customer a couple printed shirts and even some knitwear pieces. One of the standout pieces was the black and white checkerboard knit sweater with a wide crewneck.

Later in the collection did add more color to the collection. Most of the color is focused in the knit pieces. Another big trend that Mason showed and two of the must have pieces from the collection are two knit pieces. First is the gray merino wool cardigan with a band of red trimming the opening of the cardigan. The other must have piece is the bottle green merino wool cardigan. The cardigan is extra long, draping down to the crotch. Sadly both cardigans were worn with a skinny leg pant. Last season Mason used an abundant amount of color in his collection. Although there were a few color pieces and prints used in the collection. The lack of color is a distraction.

View complete collection at Vogue Australia

[images via Australian Vogue]

September 22, 2006

Australia Women’s S/S 07 – MAD CORTES

Girly, Feminine, Girly, designer Mira Vukovic’s Mad Cortes collection is full of fairytale shapes, ruffles and bubble shapes. In the first section Vukovic showed several bubble shape looks in mild tones of color. Sadly a lot of the opening looks had no fluid look, it seemed as though Mira was all over the place. Showing a series of last season trends, each look more monochromatic rather than mixed together. In the second section she jumped away from mild color palette and showed a long series of all black and gray looks. One of the first standout pieces in this section was a dress that utilized the balloon shape with balloon shape skirt hem and shoulders. Mira used a treated black and grey cotton fabric that looked like leather. The look was finished with a belt and fishnet stockings. Another strong look in this section was another balloon shape crepe dress. The skirt of the dress in done in a balloon shape with black gamine draped over one shoulder and over the bodice of the dress.

One of the best trends that Mira showed on the catwalk was a fishnet stocking which she used on several looks. There were two must have looks from collection. First is the purple and burgundy print skirt with the waistline ruffled. The skirt is short and worn with wide black velvet belt and the look is top with a black long sleeve knit blouse with drape of ruffles down the front and the shoulder are rolled giving the blouse a Gucci look. I know the blouse ever very 4 seasons ago; the combination of skirt and the top and black knit stockings is sexy. The other must have look is the black silk crepe dress with hem of the skirt finished with a ruffle and a ruffle drape draped from one shoulder strap and down the front of the dress to the opposite hip of the dress. While the opening of the collection is muted and dull, the black section of the collection was the key to Vukovic’s design aesthetic. The all black looks had character and Vukovic’s experimentation is evident and a success giving us strong looks.

View complete collection at Vogue Australia

[images via Australian Vogue]

September 20, 2006

Australia Women’s S/S 07 – FASHIONASSASSIN

At the Fashion Assassin womens collection for Spring/Summer, designer Alex Zabotto-Bentley abandons the dark palettes that several designers are using during Australia Fashion Week. His gift to us this season is pleve of prints in array of colors. While some of the prints span over several decades of design Alex focused on doing the prints in some bold colors. One of the standout prints in the collection is geometric honeycomb print done in several colors. The print was used on a short sleeve shirt worn with khaki corduroy short. The short is the key piece to the look and one of the standout trends in Alex’s collection. The cuff of the Khaki brown corduroy short is finished with a black ribbed knit elastic which creates a balloon shape to the short. This is one of the unique trends that we saw at San Francisco Fashion Week and hopefully it will carry on to NY and Paris.

Another strong print look from the collection is the brown and aqua floral and fern print. The print was used on a high waisted short sleeve dress. Alex steered away from a lot of the bid trends that we have seen recycled from the Fall/Winter collections. However he did barrow from the menswear shows in Milan and Paris with a knit cardigan. The standout knit look was a dark olive green knit cardigan. The cuffs, lapels and hem of the cardigan are finished with a ribbed knit. It’s worn with a olive green and white geometric print dress-shirt dress. The key to Alex’s womenswear is young, comfortable and certainly daring. While the designs of the clothes are very reminiscent of the 40’s with trench collar dresses the strong point of the collection is not his use a lot of new trends but his use of prints in the collection. Bravo Monsieur Zabotto-Bentley!

View complete collection at Vogue Australia

[images via Australian Vogue]

September 18, 2006

Australia Women’s S/S 07 – TONI MATICEVSKI

For Australia the Spring/Summer collections is more like Fall/Winter. At the opening of Australia Fashion week designer Toni Maticevski took her detailed eye for couture fabrics and embroidering in dark shades while keeping the very light and feminine. In the opening section of her collection she showed a handful of looks for day that could easily move into evening. One of the standout pieces in this section was the white linen short sleeve safari shirt, belted around the waist. The shirt is draped over a layered skirt. The skirt is constructed with layers of white tulle layered over a layer of white silk voile. The top layer of the organza layer of the skirt is covered with lily of the valley embroidered and embellished with beading. Another great piece from this section is the white pencil skirt.

In the opening section the lengths varied and Toni continued to use a combination of sheer fabrics piece with heavy fabrics. In the closing section Maticevski only showed one long gown for evening. This look was a floor length chiffon gown. The chiffon is printed with a minimalist feather print, when viewed from a distance it creates a tie-dye or Indian look to the fabric. The gown is detailed with ruffles around the waist, hem of the skirt and on the bodice and straps. When this gown closed the show the editors, buyers and onlookers start clapping early. With many designers today really jumping off the deep end of design, its nice to see a designer who really embraces craft of fashion design along with construction and detail.

The must have piece from the collection is one of Maticevski’s lily of the valley pieces. A cream silk crepe sheath dress overlaid with a white organza shell covered with a embroidered and beaded lily of the valley. The organza shell has a cape shaped back while the cream crepe dress is tailored close the waist. Toni was trying to create a very feminine but very strong statement of quality and detail with her collection. While many designers are brrowing some of the trends from last season and taking these trends beyond what’s necessary or needed. Toni Maticevski was able to take these trends and create some of the softest looks that just lightly touch these trends. Maticevski certainly has set the bar high for the remainder of Australia Fashion Week. Bravo Monsieur Maticevski!

View complete collection at Vogue Australia

[images via Australian Vogue]

September 17, 2006

San Francisco Fashion Week S/S 07’ – Women’s Wrap Up

For it’s Junior Fashion Week, San Francisco’s talent and strongest statements came from some of its new participants. A vast majority of the trends we saw on the runway were repeats of last season’s (Fall/Winter) trends. Everything Ruffles, Balloon Shapes, Spanish Flare and Hooded Looks. Last season trends aside many of the younger or new designers jumped outside of the box and gave us a few trends we are starting to see on other runways post Fashion Week.

Out the repeat trends, one of the most repetitive trends throughout the fashion week was Ruffles. The repetition of ruffles from collection to collection became more of a headache. Only a few designers really took the ruffle to the next level. Like designer Cari Borja who showed several ruffle looks in her collection. Borja edited the ruffle technique by cutting the ruffle in a zigzag motion and finished the hem with a zigzag stitch. Another strong trend that Borja added to her ruffle looks was rich printed fabrics like brocades even damask fabrics.


For over 6 seasons now the world of fashion has been pushing the skinny pant onto the runway. This trend was originally developed from Hedi Slimane’s second collection for Dior and women buying up his first skinny collection like it was hot stock market item. At the menswear collections for Spring/Summer 07’ in Milan and Paris, we finally are seeing the skinny pant slowly disappear. The trend is slowly disappearing at the SF collections. Designers Kelly B, Briana Swords and Laura Sato of HisByHer took the full leg pant into their collection with open arms. While some designer added a sailor look to pant the relaxed leg is a great look for Spring/Summer 07’.


A few designers this season have taken the post war 40’s and restructured the whole look for the woman today. Three designers at San Francisco really mastered this look, from HisByHer a black silk satin dress with a button down front. With a peter pan collar and cascading pleated fans on the back of the skirt in a white silk satin. Another great look was designer Lily Samii’s hunter green cotton dress with a boxed neckline and a short sleeve lined with a ruffle. This look incorporated another new trend this season, the frayed edge. Samii finished the hem of the dress and edges of the belt with a frayed edge.


From Cari Borja, Donna Lou, Erin Mahoney to Pink Elf and Tamiece, prints were scattered all over the runway. Designers showed a broad spectrum of print designs. From modern prints in bold and brass colors of rust and copper to feminine floral prints in aqua’s and pink’s. While there were a few designers who showed some dull prints, designers like Cari Borja and Erin Mahoney flourished. Mahoney’s Pucci and St. Laurent inspired prints were vibrant and light up the runway. Designer Cari Borja only showed a handful of prints but her eye for combining contrasting prints is complete!


Lace is very delicate and certainly special and often its absent for long stints during collections. Finally lace is making a comeback! Only a few designers used lace in their collections this season, for designer Cari Borja lace added a sexy Spanish look to her feminine and earthy looks. Borja’s standout look was the black polka dot lace over a black life print on white silk. The strapless gown is made up of several tiers of silk and lace gathered creating a ruffle shape. At the Donna Lou show, designer Amanda Lefebre showed several skirt and dress looks with a polka dot lace petticoat. She also detailed the seaming on several piece with lace. Designers Besnik and Lily Samii took lace to the extreme; Samii detailed her lace with beading and cashmere tweed thread, which she threaded through the lace design.

September 15, 2006

S.F. Women’s S/S 07 – GENEVIEVE PRIMAVERA

Designer Mary Elizabeth Primavera took her fairytales to heart with her Spring/Summer collection embellishing her black and white collection with bows and a lot of draped fabrics and balloon shapes. In the opening section Primavera showed several knickers looks and skirt looks. One of the standout looks was a gray wool skirt with cutout panels on both sides of the skirt that done in a gray wool fabric with a swirl print in a lighter gray. The skirt is worn with a halter-top in the same swirl fabric. While many designers are incorporating leggings in their collections, Primavera opted for stockings. I loved the plaid stripe stocking; the elastic is weaved in a broad plaid design.

The must have piece from the Genevieve Primavera collection is the white silk satin skirt with a black chiffon shell that is covered with little black and white bows. Another must have piece is the short hem black wool pant with a gray paisley print on the fabric. The pant leg is on the skinny side; it would have been nice if it were a fuller leg. For her S/S collection Genevieve Primavera was to focused on the idea of knickers and short lengths that several looks lacked tailoring or clean lines, instead several looks looked to baggy or not cut properly. It would also have been nice to see some color in the collection.

View the complete collection at wireimage.com

[images via Wireimage.com

S.F. Women's S/S 07 – TAMIECE

An Asian invasion, after three days of only one Asian model on the runway, the ladies of Tamiece, Pamela & Sheena Borja casted all Asian models with exception of one! I love it! To open the collection the duo hit the pavement with a series of looks with a silk satin skirt design that is the strongest pieces in the collection. The back of the skirt is finished with scalloped panels. These skirts were shown in a number of colors from white, black and brown along with panels done in black, gold and cream. The sisters played with length in this collection, in the latter half they showed several coo-lot looks, which for petite woman is a distracting proportion. Pamela and Sheena also incorporated some of last season’s trends like the balloon shape skirt and ruffles.

Several prints were used throughout the collection but the standout print was a oil and water print done in multi-color palette. Sadly I was not a fan of the pieces that created for the print. The must have piece from the collection is the wrinkled brown & white crepe blouse draped with a window opening. The blouse is worn with a with a balloon cuff denim short. The Borja sisters have a great eye and talent for their petite customer. While the focus of this collection was to give more options to the customer, the broad spectrum of looks was a little lost. Overall Tamiece collection does have one of the best skirt designs of San Francisco Fashion Week.

View the complete collection at wireimage.com

[images via Wireimage.com]

S.F. Women’s S/S 07 – HisByHer

Designers Briana Swords and Laura Sato took it to the next level with their S/S collection. Their collection is certainly the most polished collection shown during San Francisco Fashion Week. My notes were just a long list of loves, likes and positive signs of something great. The duo opted to keep with Hollywood glam theme with their collection, but their designs and tailoring of each piece really standout in each look. In the opening section Swords and Sato showed several looks for day. The pant looks had a full leg and they played with clean lines as well as some balloon shapes for their dresses and skirts. One of the standout pieces in opening section was a cream silk satin blouse with a peter pan collar and cascading down the front of the of blouse is a diamond cutout tie. The look is finished with a ¾ length sleeve white crepe jacket and a seafoam green skirt. A great piece was the white crepe pant with a 40’s deco floral print embroidered on the fabric, the pant leg is full but I was not crazy about the seafoam green jacket paired with the pant.

In the second section Briana and Laura continued their 40’s inspiration in several looks but slowly added some modern pieces. While the whole Hedi Slimane slim look is coming to a close, I did take a liking to the white cotton skinny arm jacket. The lapels are rounded and the detail of the shoulders really creates a dramatic look along with the stream of buttons along the sleeves of the jacket. Another great look from the second section is one of the playful looks of the collection. A white cotton gazar short ballerina skirt with a burnt amber silk ribbon encircling the skirt in tiers. The skirt was paired with a burgundy jacket, the jacket fabric is finished with a layered quilting technique that encompasses the bodice of the jacket and the draped skirt of the jacket. It’s a young look but both of these pieces by themselves are strong pieces that any age customer can wear.

For the evening section HisByHer keeps the 40’s glam style and showed a series of long slinky silk satin gowns. What really made these gowns standout is the construction and structure of the gowns. First there is the pale green silk satin gown, the duo used two different fabrics in the construction of the gown (matte satin and shiny satin). The gown has a wide neckline and the body of the gown is made up of long panels of alternating shiny and matte satin. The shinny satin panels are constructed in ladder quilting technique. The other satin gown is a gold silk satin gown with bands white silk satin crisscrossing the body of the dress and trimming the neckline. Both of these gowns are strong mainly because of the wow factor, both of the designers really are able to step away from such a piece at the right time. Their combined eye can really see when enough is enough a trait some designers’ lack.

The must have pieces from the collection are two silk satin looks. First is the black silk satin button front dress with a white silk satin peter pan collar. Adorning the sides and back of the dress are tiers of fan shapes of white silk satin and pleated to create or movement around the dress. The other must have piece from the collection is the black pleated satin skirt. A pleated vent typically found on the back hem of a skirt is moved to the front, changing the movement of the skirt. There are so many strong pieces in the collection that singling one out is next to impossible. If this collection is not snapped up by a department store I would be certainly surprised. There are so many pieces that are great sells in many markets. Bravo Mademoiselle Sato, Mademoiselle Swords and Madame Underwood!

View the complete collection at wireimage.com

[images via Wireimage.com]

September 14, 2006

S.F. Women’s S/S 07 – RICHARD HALLMARQ

San Francisco is a small market, that’s what makes it young and unique. But every fashion week has that one show you love to hate and hate to love. Richard Hallmarq is certainly one of those designers, some turned up their noses while others were loving all the skin and vividness he showed for Spring/Summer. Sadly no designer notes were provided to the press on his collection and backstage approaching Richard was next to impossible. My first thought on the inspiration for the collection is its very James Bond’s “Never Say Never Again” meets Tina Turner in the 80’s - say hello Fatima Blush! Richard Hallmarq took the 80’s bold trends of parachute leg pants and excessive use of the leather to an all time high. I am not sure what was more distracting, the Water-Polo Speedos clad male models or the heavy chest model in halter-top jump suit with opened front and 80’s sliced open leg.

Hallmarq opened the collection with a series of the synched leather looks and then added some ballooned shapes. My “Fatima Blush” idea was derived from the black leather jumpsuit with one arm sliced open. The only downside to jumpsuits, if they are not tailored properly the wearer will exhibit some camel toe. Jumpsuits were certainly an evolving trend from last season; sadly I hope it begins to die. One of the better trends that Hallmarq showed was a full leg pant for men; sadly he only showed a handful of these looks. Most of the collection is a lot of repeat trends of tank tops, animal prints and ruffles. Hallmarq is a showman’s designer, if you interested in looking like a rock star, he’s your man. “The greatest rapture of my life was afforded me on a boat in Nassau by Fatima Blush”

View the complete collection at wireimage.com

[images via Wireimage.com]

September 13, 2006

S.F. Women’s S/S 07 – ANAZARA

Color, Color and more Color, Anazara is exactly what a swimwear line should be. For her Spring/Summer collection designer Ana Paunovic kept it very clean in design and focusing on modern lines that draw your eyes to the suits. The modern design combined with the vibrant colors brings the collection alive. A vast majority of the collection is not for larger chest women. If you tends be bigger than a “C” cup then this is the swimwear line for you. Only on of the models was bigger than a “B” cup. One of the standout suits in the collection was the black and red strapless Lycra two-piece suit. The black Lycra is the shell for the two-piece while the red lycra acts as tie off for both the top and bottom creating a red band on the black suit.

My picks for the must have looks from the Anazara collection is certainly for all sizes out there. First is another two-piece strapless suit, this one in a pale blue/red/navy color combination. The suit shell is created by a band of each blue color connected as one, and then a band of the red Lycra laid over the seam of the two colors. The red Lycra is then tied off in the back of the top piece, and on the hips on the bottom. The other must have suit is the pale blue and red Lycra two-piece suit. The top piece is halter-top style with the breast panels emphasized with the pale blue Lycra creating a frame for the breast cup done in the red Lycra. The suit is very bold but it real compliments a woman bust line, the modern design draws your eyes away from the waist area. While I was very fond of the looks that Ana showed for Spring/Summer collection her overall design aesthetic is for a woman in a tropical location, like Brazil or Venezuela. Being the only swimwear designer is certainly a perk at SF Fashion Week, but if she showed in Rio she would certainly gain a lot more press and broaden her market. I really feel her talent is being wasted here in SF. Bravo Madam Paunovic.

View the complete collection at wireimage.com

[images via Wireimage.com]

September 12, 2006

S.F. Women’s S/S 07 – KATHERINE NOYES

Rich and delicate, that is the kind of fabric’s designer Katherine Noyes showed for her Spring/Summer 07’ collection. In the opening section Noyes kept the look very simple and clean. The simplicity is in the design while the choice of fabrics is very durable. The whoops in the opening was cotton polka dot fabric that Dichotomy showed earlier in the evening. While she opted to use a lot of cotton voile in the opening section she slowly added some detail and delicate fabrics to the looks. The standout piece was the pink silk charmeuse dress with a white lace overlay. The dress was simple with a v-neckline and a-line shape skirt.

In the second section sent out a parade of tunics, tube tops and blouses all in silk charmeuse. The only downsides to these looks were the pants that completed the look. From pin stripe capri’s to skinny leg pants. As the second section moved on Noyes started to use more delicate fabrics. The standout look in this section was a black silk charmeuse spaghetti strap dress with a white lace overlaid on the breast of the dress, a simple look but very clean and minimal. In the evening section Noyes kept to her use of delicate fabrics and kept the design and shape very simple and draped. The standout look in the closing section was the pale blue halter-top evening gown. A two layered gown, the bottom layer of pale blue silk satin is overlaid with a drape of pale blue silk chiffon. The detailing on the gown includes hand beading on the halter straps and the low back design of the dress. Noyes showed duplicate version of the gown in a pale brown silk chiffon and satin.

The must have look from the collection is Noyes closing look, a beaded silk charmeuse and chiffon cocktail dress. The dress is designed with straight-line design to the dress and multi-layers font neckline. The dress shell is pale blue silk charmeuse with a layer of silk chiffon beaded with a flame design. The neckline of the dress has three layers of chiffon offset from the charmeuse shell. A stunning piece on its own, sadly I would like to have seen more work like this and the chiffon and charmeuse gowns she showed. While the pieces in the collection are polished the lack of a new design element in the pieces takes away from any strong statement that Noyes was hoping to achieve.

View the complete collection at wireimage.com

[images via Wireimage.com]

September 11, 2006

S.F. Women’s S/S 07 – DICHOTOMY

At the Dichotomy show, designer Theresa Romero drew inspiration for her collection on the tale of a young woman pulling herself out of a depressing chapter of her life to reemerge as a woman. While the music can seem depressing with Depeche Mode and Hole, the lyrics give us hope for light at the end of the tunnel. From this story Theresa showed several looks that were very romantic and very feminine in a dark palette with bursts of color (hope) here and there. In the opening section Romero showed a handful of looks that were draped with a baggy shape, similar to the shapes we saw at Marc Jacobs last season. Another shape she barrowed from last season was the balloon shape, which she on several dresses and gowns.

Theresa Romero slowly added more looks to the collection that were really defining her design style. From her use of young and soft fabrics in dark and striking colors to the over details of the looks. One of the strong looks in the second section was the black cotton voile blouse with a mandarin collar and a keyhole front. The blouse was worn with a blush cotton voile skirt. Another strong look from the collection was the blush cotton voile dress with paneled horizontal ribbed torso and a gathered skirt. The dress is worn with a black organza and black cotton voile skirt. Both of these looks were some of the stronger look because they really had defined look and style. In the closing section Theresa fell back towards the trends of last season from balloon shapes and even Lagerfeld’s two lengths in one look.

The must have piece from the collection is the strapless red cotton voile cocktail dress. The dress is a two layered look, the top layers is a red cotton voile dress worn with a longer black seersucker cotton skirt. The look is finished with a black seersucker cotton belt with frayed edges. This dress really defines the collection as a whole. It’s young, strong and feminine! Theresa Romero has the ability to really take an idea or inspiration and really build off it. Unfortunately it would have been nice to see her tone down the use of trends in the collection.

View the complete collection at wireimage.com

[images via Wireimage.com]

S.F. Women’s S/S 07 – KELLY B

Designer Kelly B opened her collection with music that would set the tone of her inspiration for this collection. Siouxsie & Banshee’s style music marked the tone of her organic jersey looks that paraded down the runway. In the opening section alone Kelly showed 10 out of 11 looks with jersey. Her fabric of choice, Kelly’s focus is creating modern looks with organics fabrics. While jersey is a great everyday fabric its use is very limited when you start to drape and tailor it. Jersey aside I was even more confused with Kelly’s play with several of last seasons big trends. Everything from ruffles, quilted pieces, Grecian columns, leggings, and 80’s mini lengths.

One trend that Kelly really did embrace was the full leg pant, which she chose to show several sailor pants with button square front. Which showed with a black organic short sleeve top. The must have look from the collection is the black bamboo jersey gown with a halter-top and a keying crisscross back. Unfortunately the draping of the bamboo jersey on the floor length gowns was not done properly. When the models walked they tend to get caught up in the inside leg area. What was really lost in this collection was the fluid look in the collection, while her dedication to using organic textiles is evident. Style and design is all over the place, from 70’s style dresses, art & craft’s details and pieces, sailor themed looks and an abundance of ruffles. I was lost with the look Kelly was trying to achieve with her Spring Collection. On a high note, the MAC teams make for the collection was very clean and very polished.

View the complete collection at wireimage.com

[images via Wireimage.com]

S.F. Women’s S/S 07 – BESNIK

Designer Besnik was certainly drawing from themes of the 70’s and 80’s we saw last season. For his Spring 2007 collection Besnik kept a strong, sleek and sexy looks. His shape is close to the body with accents of ruffles and lace. Besnik showed several looks with the synch fabric style from the 70’s. Several designers used this technique during this week and its to fashion backwards, a look taken from Gucci collection last season. While Besnik played with last seasons ruffle, he did have few hit or misses with one of the strong trends we’ve seen during SF fashion week, Lace! Which he showed a 80’s style lace tank top reminiscent of 80’s Madonna. One of the strong lace looks that Besnik showed was the pale rose cotton jersey dress with a plunging neckline. The rose fabric is finished with a hemmed with a vibrant red and a bright aqua lace added to the synching of the fabric in the front and back of the dress. Another strong look from the collection is the black stretch jersey strapless dress. A panel of red vinyl is runs down the back of the dress adding a great contrast look to the all black dress.

The must have piece from the collection was one of the most daring pieces in all of Fashion Week. Besnik showed a black lace slip dress with no backing to the lace. Instead Besnik finished the dress with hot pink silk satin ribbon weaving in and out of the black lace and embellished the lace with sequins. A very decadent piece but a key look to Besnik’s design aesthetic. Besnik has an eye for the female silhouette but this collection was to far of a reach back to the 80’s and 70’s. I would like to have seen him focus on how his work translates to the women of today, he accomplished this fete in a handful of looks but the collection as a whole was lacking.

View the complete collection at wireimage.com

[images via Wireimage.com]

September 10, 2006

S.F. Women’s S/S 07 – DONNA LOU

Amanda Lefebre’s Spring/Summer 2007 collection for her Donna Lou label continues her mission of providing classic feminine looks for the modern woman today. One of her strengths in this collection is her attention to detail. Lefebre adds little details of lace petticoats under skirts or dresses to the tailoring of her blazer and pencils skirts, which is true to the historical reference of the pieces, but she adds extra lines with the seaming.

Throughout the collection Amanda showed several business looks from pant looks to skirt and blazer looks. Two of the strongest looks were both a skirt and blazer look. First was the matching mocha cotton bomber jacket and gathered waist skirt worn with a matching belt. The jacket is tailored in a bomber jacket shape with a peter collar done in moss green cotton fabric. The skirt is gathered at the waist creating a vertical ruffle shape to the skirt and cream polka dot lace petticoat. The other strong look was a nod to the pencil skirt of the 50’s. The same mocha fabric used in a matching pencil skirt and hook front blazer. Both the jacket and pencil skirt are finished with a cream antique lace, the vertical seams on the front and back of the skirt were finished with the lace, while on the jacket she trimmed the sleeve cuff, lapels, opening and pocket flaps with the cream lace.

The only looks in the collection that were not working were all the skinny leg pants Amanda showed through out the collection, although she added some shape to the pant with a flare from the knee. Lefebre’s real gems in this collection are all her dress and skirt looks. One of the standout pieces in the collection was the mocha brown cotton yoke skirt worn with a tencel tank in rose. The skirt is finished around the waist with an antique lace and the hem of the skirt is trimmed with a scalloped trim lace. Another strong look from the collection was the gray stripped wide yoke skirt worn with a white cotton button down camisole. The skirt is lined with a cream polka dot petticoat. The sleeves, collar and the font darts are trimmed with a scalloped black lace.

The must have piece from the collection is one printed look. Lefebre used a 50’s leaf pop print in a turquoise and pink color palette. The look is a spring cocktail dress with spaghetti straps and a flared skirt from the torso. The dress is clean in design she added her polka dot petticoat to the dress. Skinny pants aside Amanda Lefebre’s Donna Lou collection for Spring/Summer 07’ has a lot of strong pieces and certainly a lot of directional pieces throughout the collection. Her eye for detail is evident, what is more fascinating is her dedication to keeping with her design aesthetic. Bravo Madame Lefebre!

View the complete collection at wireimage.com

[images via Wireimage.com]

September 09, 2006

S.F. Women’s S/S 07 – PINK ELF

Taking the 60’s and the 70’s and throwing it into the blender, designer Kaushie Adiseshan her focus for the Spring/Summer collection was plenty of color and playing with shapes. In the opening section she played with sever 60’s reworked prints and while working with several 70’s style fabrics. The strong point of the collection is the summer or day dresses that Adiseshan showed. While her pant looks were too boxy and the tailoring is lacking a uniform shape throughout the collection. Another down point to the collection is Adiseshan had a small selection of fabrics which he repeated frequently through the collection. Some of the strongest looks in the opening section were some of Adiseshan's silk cocktail dresses. She plaid with several prints from floral to bold polka dots.

The must have looks from the collection are two night and day dresses from the collection. First is the vertical green and teal strip dress. The stripe fabric is detailed with a pinstripe design in a gold thread. The other must have look is the 2 piece silk umbrae dress. The umbrae fabric is printed with a black and rush swirl design and the opening of the top and the belt are done in a black silk satin. Outside of the obvious inspirations in the collection, the odd note is that Adiseshan described the looks with Greek and Roman names for each look. While there are certainly some strong dress looks that will certainly sell and great for editorial, the overall look in the collection has to many looks that fall out of the focus the designer had for the season.

S.F. Women’s S/S 07 – LAUREN V CRAIG

While the whole event at San Francisco Fashion Week was intended for the Spring/Summer 2007 season. Designer Lauren Craig took a lot of inspiration in the trends we saw during the Fall/Winter collection earlier this year. Craig showed a series of free form and expressive looks for her collection. While Craig was high decorated at the senior collection at the Academy of Art, she focused on her ability to drape in all three of her looks. From a pant look to two floor length skirts and gowns, Craig draped each piece with a detailed eye for movement. The models were able to move effortlessly down the runway.

While Craig’s draped skirt and gown were certainly a great focal point to the collection but the must have piece is Craig’s buttoned knit cardigan that she showed with the skirt. Connected to the cardigan is a drape of what looked like silk charmeuse over the shoulder and arm and connected in the back. While the over look of the collection was very oversized and body positive. I can’t but see Marc Jacobs Fall/Winter collection as an obvious inspiration for the collection. Which in the end is not a bad thing, Craig has a talent for seriously thinking and staying out of the box. Her vision and design philosophy is the root of collection and she has such great potential to grow and explore. Bravo Mademoiselle Craig!

View the complete collection at wireimage.com

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September 08, 2006

S.F. Women’s S/S 07 – CANDIS LEE CLEVELAND

“A” for construction, “A” for execution, what Candis Lee Cleveland was lacking in this collection was personality. Cleveland accomplished her inspiration with all three looks. It was all there, clean, simple, sophisticated and sexy. The 30’s style tailoring of the cocktail dresses really resonates Candis’s vision of creating dresses that really shows someone what it feels like to wear silk charmeuse. The standout piece was Cleveland’s red silk charmeuse cocktail dress that is hemmed right above the knee. What made this look a stunner was the plunging back and the neckline the dress is all “black”.

While red is certainly an easy pick right off a runway for the best look, the must have look from Cleveland’s collection was her black and white silk charmeuse cocktail dress. This dress alone was stunning, but when model Pierce Ross (JD Agency) came down wearing the dress she set whole event in an uproar. She was working the dress but the dress really did not need it in the end, Pierce proved that dress could really make a woman. Whole dress is done in a ivory white silk charmeuse with a small section of the torso, below the breast line, done in black silk charmeuse. Candis Lee Cleveland shot right for the stars in front of her. She may have not aimed high with this collection of looks but she mastered a near perfect look. Bravo Mademoiselle Cleveland!

View the complete collection at wireimage.com

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September 07, 2006

S.F. Women’s S/S 07 – HANNAH GALLAGHER

Designer Hannah Gallagher titles her collection “New Hope”. My first reaction was this is going to be a reference to “Star Wars”. Instead Gallagher her inspiration was really older women’s styling practice of were over size pieces and using an accessory to trick they eye the garment is smaller. The end result is 3 very feminine looks with great shape but the wrong fabrics. Gallagher showed a Givenchy style bubble shape skirt and dress. The colors were great, the large belts worked even the leggings worn under the dresses seemed to be working. What was not working was the material choice for the skirt and dress. The fabric was to stiff and as the model walked the pieces didn’t move.

Fabric choices aside Gallagher did have one must piece in her collection. A collarless cocktail jacket with flared sleeves in soft canary yellow. The jacket was lined with a brown/white polka dot silk fabric. The jacket look was finished with white linen painters blouse tied off with large belt and worn with a skinny Capri pant in khaki brown. The key to Gallagher’s collection was her color choice but the fabric choices really did hurt the over look of the collection.

View the complete collection at wireimage.com

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September 06, 2006

S.F. Women’s S/S 07 – YOUNG K. PARK

Construction, its her vision, its her inspiration for this collection. Young K. Park has a talent for construction and its evident in all of her three looks. She also played with some of the trends we have seen the last two seasons, from flared structured skirts to ruffles. One of the standout pieces she showed was a tiered ruffle skirt with a combination of textured fabrics. The skirt is worn with a overlapping front vest with an embroidered fan design at the close of the vest.

The must have look was the pink cotton skirt worn with a charcoal gray jackets. The skirt is flared below the knee and the hem is finished with the charcoal fabric used for the jacket. The jacket is another unique piece; Park used a silver thread for seaming of the jacket. The silver thread shows off Park’s attention to construction and her ability to give a simple jacket some really modern lines. All three looks really were in cinch although Park didn’t really jump out of the business to day look she was creating. Overall her pieces were very wearable and sellable. Bravo Mademoiselle Park!

View the complete collection at wireimage.com

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September 02, 2006

S.F. Women’s S/S 07 – EMILY YAO

The golden child of San Francisco Fashion Week, Emily Yao received the Best Emerging Designer Award for her Goth/Vintage/Tailored collection. At first glance the inspiration of S&M & Dominatrix, look a little closer and you can see her attention to detail which is predominately found in couture techniques. While Yao explains her vivid vision being influenced by her Goth club days, I can see she has really stepped out of that vision and explored another side of design, Sex! With her material choices alone, Emily Yao really mastered a sexy and function look. Take the black vinyl pencil skirt with a corseted top of olive green silk gazar used for the breast line and a darker green material covered with dyed ostrich feathers.

The standout look in her collection was the charcoal gray miniskirt worn with olive green silk satin and black vinyl corset. What really made this look standout were the garter belts that were sewn on the outside of the skirt and clasped onto black silk stockings. It’s evident that Yao likes to think out of the box. Not even John Galliano thought of such an ingenious look when he did the pencil skirt 4 years ago! The look is finished with a matching charcoal gray sleeves mini jacket and black satin gloves. I would certainly have to agree that Yao deserved the award, not only for presenting 3 looks that really looked they were from the same collection. But for ability to create unique looks that really exhibit her design philosophy. The challenge in front of her is to mold her design aesthetic into a complete ready to wear collection. Judging from these looks she has the ability bend the rules. Bravo Mademoiselle Yao!

View the complete collection at wireimage.com

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September 01, 2006

Australia Men’s S/S 07 – NARENDRA KUMAR

One of the safest looks to show at a menswear collection is silkscreen print on pretty much anything. Guys love it, designers love it, but do editors love it? For her Spring/Summer collection Kumar opted to add a silkscreen image to everything from blazer and even sweat jackets. One of the standout pieces in the opening section was a white cotton voile cropped sleeve jacket with a mow collar. The white cotton voile is printed with a peace sign print; the look was finished with a long sleeve orange shirt with a silkscreen image of Jim Morrison on the front. Through out the collection Kumar made sure that her pants were relaxed with a full leg. Kumar did not stop there with her pants; she used different textured fabrics for the pants as well.

The must have piece from the collection is gray cotton voile pant with ribbed knit elastic used for the waist. A trend that is starting to pickup from Fashion Week to Fashion Week! The pant is silk screened with a modern print and worn with a brown dress shirt with 60’s geometric design embroidered on the front of the shirt and on the matching necktie. The key to Kumar’s mens looks is in the details. She made sure the look for Spring/Summer was a more relaxed look, abandoning the skinny pant and tapered shirts. Bravo Madame Kumar!

View complete collection at Wireimage

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S.F. Women’s S/S 07 – ELIZABETH ANN BUENROSTRO

One of the first designers to walk the runway in the “Emerging Designer” showcase was Elizabeth Ann Buenrostro. The inspiration for her collection was vixens of the cult classic horror films of the 50’s. This inspiration is comes out loud and clear. From Janet Leigh’s capes to Tippy Hedren’s sleek pencil skirts. Buenrostro played with these design and added several modern twists.

One of the strongest looks in her collection was the bright olive cropped cape with orange lining and hood. While many designers showed several hooded looks, this was one of first looks that really made sense; the hooded cape complimented the complete look. The cape was worn with high waisted stretch jersey pencil skirt with a flared trim of chiffon hemming the skirt. Buenrostro also showed another cape look in which she embellished the cape with a oval shape similar to shoulder pads on the shoulder of the cape. What was really striking about Elizabeth looks, were her use of color, the attention historical references and being able to develop a new look based off of them. Bravo Mademoiselle Buenrostro!

View the complete collection at wireimage.com

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August 30, 2006

S.F. Women’s S/S 07 – ERIN MAHONEY

Designer Erin Mahoney opened her collection with a series of evening gowns. The overall look were 70’s disco era gowns meet 40’s starlets’ silhouettes. While I loved the curvaceous silhouette, the 70’s style of synching of the fabric was to fashion backwards. Where Mahoney really shined with the opening section was the addition of her prints. Erin slowly added these prints giving some flare and a shower of color in her collection. Some of the strongest print looks in the opening section she used her Pucci style prints. Paisley and modern prints filled with layers and layers of color. One of the strongest looks in the collection is the brown/pink/green paisley print dress with ¾ length sleeves. Mahoney used these prints on handful of pieces from blouses to dresses.

In the second section Mahoney continued her use of prints but she changed the style of her prints. Adding more floral and some modern style prints. One of the standout prints in this section was a mum print that is very similar to the mum prints Yves Saint Laurent used for over 30 years. A personal favorite and I was delighted to see Mahoney playing off the original. She used the print on a ¾ length halter dress. Another strong look was another Pucci style print of psychedelic floral pattern in a yellow/orange/pink color palette. The print used on a two-piece gown, a synched fabric bodice and floor-length skirt with a cowl bustle in the back.

While Mahoney’s use of prints was a shinning moment in the collection. She also dabbled with several repeat trends from last season. From brocade fabrics and balloon shapes. Mahoney was able to explore with this collection and made sure she had everything covered. She showed a hat or headpiece with almost every look, the pairing choices were perfect. In the close of the collection Mahoney showed several strong evening gowns looks. One of the standout looks in this section was a floor-length black satin and lace gown. The skirt of the gown is a black silk lace over a black duchesse satin with a bustle in the back. The top of the gown is a black silk lace shell with a mandarin collar over a corset of black duchess satin. A devastating look, and when it moved it was floating down the runway.

With so many strong prints in the collection, the must have piece from the collection is one of Mahoney’s gown from close of the collection. A black floor-length silk taffeta strapless gown with a short train in the back. The gown is covered with several embroidered pink flowers. The flowers are done with a terry-cloth embroidery method, giving the flowers some depth and texture. Another must have piece from the collection is the sky blue chiffon halter-top dress with a red floral print. The dress is ¾ length and the hem of the skirt is finished with a bias cut which adds more movement. Erin Mahoney’s strive for a couture quality in this collection is certainly evident. While her evening gowns well constructed and dramatic, the key to her collection is her use of color in striking prints and creating wearable yet visually pleasing looks for spring. Bravo Madam Mahoney!

View the complete collection at wireimage.com

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August 29, 2006

S.F. Women’s S/S 07 – CARI BORJA

For her 2007 collection designer Cari Borja swung her design pendulum from the left to right. Hitting every strength she in her craftsmanship and her eagerness to explore the idea of texture and shapes. In the opening section of the collection Cari’s focus was on unique and delicate fabrics that really tease your eye. The strongest looks in the opening section were her knitted fabrics in unique shapes. Like the cream diamond-web tunic, the fabric has a crocheted quality. The design of the tunic was very simple but the material is what really made the look. Another strong look in the opening section was the taupe honeycomb knit blouse worn with a matching sarong pant with a ruffled hem.

While many of designers used ruffles over and over in their collection, a trend we saw in mass quantities at the Fall/Winter 06’ collections. There seems to be uniqueness with Cari’s ruffles. Backstage we spoke briefly about the technique that she used. It’s not a regular ruffle; she cut the ruffles in a zigzag motion and finished off with a zigzag stitch. This treatment created a unique movement to ruffle, rather than a up and down motion when it moves, the ruffle floats from side to side while moving up and down. One of the best examples of this technique was the sky blue wool matching vest and skirt shown in the third section. The vest collar and the hem of the skirt was finished with the zigzag ruffle along with the collar of the white cotton wrap blouse. The sky blue wool is woven with white plastic bouclé giving the fabric an embroidered look.

In the third section of her collection, Borja played with some of last seasons big trends, brocade and balloon shapes. While these trends seemed to use over and over in other collections, Cari limited her use. Borja did take the brocade trend and twist it in a couple of looks. While she labeled the red & pink damask fabrics as brocades, they are from the heavily textured look of brocades. One of the strongest looks was the sleeveless red/ fuchsia floral silk damask wrap blouse worn with a matching red/fuchsia tulle skirt. Another strong “red” look was the candy stripe cocktail dress with the hem of dress finished Borja’s zigzag ruffle. The dress was labeled as a baby doll but it really does not fit the baby doll styling. Cari tailored the ribbon fabric to drape with a trumpet shape.

The must have pieces from the collection are two completely different looks from Borja's collection. First is the purple metallic angora cocktail halter-top dress. The dress is worn with a silver ruffle underskirt, the combination of the two metallic fabrics and the design really compliment each and create an eye-catching look. The other must have look is the black and white pinwheel floral print silk chiffon kimono wrap worn over a black and white zebra strip silk chiffon pant. The trim of the kimono and the hem of the pant is finished with ruffle. When this look came down the runway several eyes started top pop open. While Cari continues her used of the ruffle she took it a step ahead of the trend curve. Creating some of the most unique pieces of San Francisco Fashion Week. The key to the collection was her eye for movement. Bravo Madame Borja!

View the complete collection at wireimage.com

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August 27, 2006

S.F. Women’s S/S 07 – LILY SAMII

For her Resort/Spring 2007 collection, designer Lily Samii kept true to the design nature of couture. From her detailed eye for embellishment and tailoring. While most of the designers did send several looks unfinished down the runway at SF Fashion Week, Samii really made an effort to complete each look and make sure it was polished. Her obvious inspiration for the collection was a very earthy color palette conveyed in rich couture fabrics of gazar and organza.

In the opening section Samii showed several stretch jersey and wool looks, from day dresses to working two-piece looks. One of the strongest looks in the opening section was a dark green cotton dress with a boxed neckline. The hem of the skirt and the hem of the sleeves were finished with a frayed edge. This detail was even used on the trim of the matching belt worn above the waist. The frayed belt was one of the standout trends from SF Fashion Week. While Samii was focused on a wearable look in the opening section, some of the looks were shapeless, like the cashmere tweed jackets. In the second section Samii started to slowly add some embellishments to each look from beading to gold quail feather. She used the feathers on two looks. The strongest look was a pale mauve organza dress with a pale blue crepe bust line and the gold feathers applied to the waist of the dress as if they were floating down. The bottom of the dress is draped with squares of mauve silk crepe.

As the collection progressed Lily Samii began to step up her attention to detail while working with some decadent couture fabrics in a broad color pallet. Samii used a lot of earth tones through out the collection adding splashes of bold color here and there. In the third section of the collection she showed two striking looks that are total opposites. First a purple silk satin gown with the seaming on a bias. The sweetheart bodice of the gown is trimmed with a band of lavender silk satin with crisscrossing straps in the front and finished with little lavender bows. A very classic gown but the bias seaming on the skirt of the gown added movement to the purple satin. Another strong look was a tiered black tulle and iridescent silk moiré gown. A black lace was layered over the moiré tier with a scalloped edge and finished of with beading and silk thread embroidering detailing the lace design. The standout detail of this gown is the cashmere tweed thread used to embellish the lace, adding more texture and a soft detail to a strong look.

The must have pieces from the collection are two beaded looks for evening. First is the iridescent green/brown taffeta floor length evening gown with a draped balloon skirt. The bodice of the gown is sheer brown organza beaded with crystals in a floral and leaf design. While the skirt was very simple in design the detail of the beading was striking. Samii also showed a cocktail dress version of the gown. The dress was a 20’s style design dress the green chiffon covered by a layer of brown organza that is encrusted with channels of beading that create a striped look to the fabric. The torso of the dress, both front and back is embellished with the same floral and leaf beading used on the gown. Sadly I only have a shot of the dress from the back.

The overall look and feel of the collection really fits with the couture philosophy and aesthetic. Fine fabrics, attention to detail and bold strong looks. Lily Samii was not afraid to take the whole couture philosophy of “more is more” to heart. One the strongest accessories in this collection were the hats and hairpieces Samii added to the looks. I loved the black feather and black satin ribbon headpieces. At the close of the collection, Lily showed a series of Spanish themed evening gowns, a trend we saw last season. The last look a burgundy taffeta gown detailed with ruffle trim and ruffle flowers on the skirt, a gown similar to Zac Posen’s oversized Spanish Ruffle ball gown. Lily even experimented with different looks while maintaining her signature style and was not afraid to break out of her color palette by adding reds and purples. Bravo Madam Samii!

View the complete collection at wireimage.com

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SF Fashion Week - 3rd Night of Models

Backstage before the show began, I ran into the MAC makeup team. I talked a little about some the shows they worked on over the 3 days and they hinted the best is yet to come! I gave them praise for their hard work and it showed. We also minced words on the hair, no comment!

Here are two shots of two really gorgeous models! I really did not like the whole sequined eye look!


August 26, 2006

SF Fashion Week - Come to a Close

San Francisco Fashion Week has come to a close. 5 designers showed last night, a broad spectrum in fashion design. From fairy chic to 70’s earthy hippie, I know those could be one in the same!!!!!

My quick assessment of the collections, overall, there were to many last season trends being used, ruffles, balloon shape dresses and hems, ruffles, skinny leg pants, ruffles, tank tops, leggings and oh did I mention ruffles. While some designers shined with their use of ruffles, others just went overboard. Beside the repeat trends there were some really interesting ones. Only a handful of designers did a full leg pant, frayed edge belts, plenty of decadent beading and array of length for dresses and gowns.

Models, for the first 3 days I was really disappointed to not see one Asian model on the runway. Finally on the closing day, they finally caught on, that’s more the booking agents fault than show producers. He should have recommended several Asian models. Luckily we had Tamiece, who graciously cast all there models with some exotic pacific island descent.

Backstage I ran into a couple stunning ladies.

For the past 3 days I was taken to Mele, great walk, great face and body! Total Victoria Secrets model and she could easily work in Paris. I wasn’t able to get her details since she was whisked away for hair.

During intermission these three were waiting with their agent, not sure what for! Meet La Tisha Jones, Amber Brown & Jamie-Lee Miller all from SAM Models.

Janice & Young Designers hit SF Fashion Week

Last night, at the second day of the San Francisco Fashion Week, the Grandé-Dame of models, Ms. Janice Dickinson was on hand to view the collections as well as play guest host to the shows and to hand out an award. To open the evening 15 young and upcoming designers showed off 3-6 looks. Janice was on hand to handout the award for the Best Emerging Designer, which was give to Emily Yao for her S&M and Couture inspired designs.

The Runway Light looking down from the 4th Floor

That’s not the only reason why Janice was on hand. Pre-Show I ran into Janice backstage and watched as a young model strutted for her in hopes for some friendly advice. Janice promptly replied, “Keep working on it”. Afterwards I talked to Janice briefly about her new modeling agency and the new reality show based on her endeavor. She was also on hand to help promote three of her models who were walking the runway for the Emerging Designers show. After I asked for a quick shot of her wearing one Colleen Quen’s velvet and moire looks from the night before, Janice was swarmed by onlookers asking to get their picture taken with her.

Janice Dickinson Pre-Show

After the Emerging Designer show, I ran into the Janice Dickinson’s three models as they waited to leave. I asked them a few questions about their background and their plans for the upcoming fashion weeks. BRITTANY Picozzi, (Janice’s Shinning Star) the fiery red-head is only 16 and was discovered back home in Las Vegas. The JD modeling team is sending her off to Paris for S/S collection in October. CRYSTAL Truehart (with her stunning jaw line and doe-like eyes) was discovered at a Model call the JD Agency did in Santa Monica but is originally from Southhampton, MA. Crystal is set to head off to NY Fashion Week early next month. Then there is PIERCE Ross (Janice’s Runway Queen – she can work a runway! I’ve seen it) who hail from Las Vegas as well.

PIERCE, BRITTANY & CRYSTAL of the Janice Dickinson Modeling Agency

Reviews of collection will be posted once Fashion Week is over which is this Saturday. Thanks for being patient.

A Shot of the photo bank at the foot of the runway

August 23, 2006

San Francisco Fashion Week is Underway. . . . .

Just got back from the first day at San Francisco Fashion Week. The designers who showed this evening were all Couture designers. When the shots from the show become available I will post my reviews. The ladies over at Mystery Girl Productions really out did themselves. From a variety of vendors showing and selling their wares on the tiered balconies above the catwalk; to the great food and drinks.

If you are in San Francisco over the next couple of days tickets are still available at the door. The event begins at 7pm at the San Francisco Design Center (101 Henry Adams Street). For now here is a shot of some of the models waiting for the show to begin all done up. The bun on top of the head was a key look for the couture designers.

January 03, 2006

Milan Women’s S/S 07 – BYBLOS

Byblos looks to the softer and younger side of the Byblos woman. The focus for the collection was taking a lot of last seasons trends like the bubble shape and ruffles and tweaking them into a collection of strong couture quality looks. The color palette for the collection is a very toned down and almost mutes. The highlights are the abundant number of prints and stripes in the collection. In the second section took this color usage and showed several key looks. First is a striped look, a metallic wool strapless dress with a bubble shape hem worn over a long sleeve silk merino striped sweater. Another great color look was a geometric color design look. The geometric design molds with the futuristic theme we saw back in the 60’s. The look is another silk merino sweater top that incorporates different knits. To finish off the look the sweater is paired with white silk damask skirt.

In the opening section Byblos’s focus was on a more sophisticated woman and on separates in key looks. One of the perfect examples is cropped jacket and short look. The starts with a pair of knee-length pants (short) with the fabric pleated creating a balloon shape. This construction was used on pants and tops, to finish the look is metallic knit top worn under a cropped waist jacket with a high collar and long sleeves. Another great piece look is the tiered ruffle skirt. The layers of skirt are off-white and done with a silk moiré with vertical strips of beading, silk satin and the final layer done in silk chiffon. Both looks are very sophisticated but its proof that Byblos can keep the appeal to their younger clients while bringing back their older clients.

The must-have pieces from the collection are two out of the ordinary evening pieces. First is the beaded silver lame top with a mow collar, the short sleeves are draped with layers of ballooned shape fabric. To finish off the look is a pair of white shorts with a pleated balloon shape added to the sides of the short. The must have look is a soft Pucci style print dress, the dress is a v-neck strap dress with two layers of fabric dropping down the dress and hemmed with a balloon shape. The key highlight to this collection is all the prints and soft colors. Byblos has really struggled to really grasp the playfulness that its been known for in the past. Even during the days D&G at the helm its playfulness really jumped out. This season the Byblos woman found the playfulness and remastered it into a youthful but sophisticated woman. One could actually see D&G’s circus collection in this season use stripes and prints.

View complete collection at Wireimage

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January 02, 2006

Milan Women’s S/S 07 – FRANKIE MORELLO

Designer Frankie Morello’s Spring/Summer collection is a perfect example of the American Sportswear and Dancewear trends that have hit the Milan catwalk this season. This trend was initially seen at Sao Paolo and then made its jump to New York. Milan has taken these two trends and morphed them together with great tailoring. Frankie Morella is one of the collections that really grasped the look and redefined the it with Milanese tailoring. Morello’s inspiration was drawn from the everyday function of performance art and morphing it with the American Sportswear created by Perry Ellis and Anne Klein. In the opening section Morello kept this look very loose and light. One of the standout pieces in the opening section is a pale ecru jersey overall worn with a pale yellow spandex leotard with cropped princess sleeve. The leg of overall is full in shape; another great full leg look in the opening section is a purple twill pant with a velvet treatment to the fabric. The pant is high waisted and worn with suspenders, to finish the look Morello showed a loose fitting leotard with a mock turtleneck and a draped bubble shape sleeve.


Morello played with a lot of little detailed trends like the full leg pant and shorts even varying the lengths of his skirts. The only down side is the abundant use of the balloon shape. Another strong trend in this collection is the color palette. A very two tone color palette, he keeps the color tied down by mixing natural shades with white and showing a few shocking shades of yellow and red sorbet. In the second section Morello started to incorporate more outerwear pieces. One of the standout pieces in this section was a classic trench coat. Morello reshapes the coat adding volume and using the belt to keep the classic trench structure. The sleeves are ½ length and the look was finished with a pair of Morello’s full leg pants. Another great look from the second section incorporates another big trend this season, the print. An a-line silk moiré mini-dress is printed with a geometric circle print. The print contains the three shocking colors of the collection.

There are two must-have looks from the collection. First is one of Morello’s outerwear pieces, a purple a-line overcoat. The coat sleeves are ¾ length and a pair of Morello’s full leg pants, these in a dark olive brown. The other must have look is a layered looks in the second section. An off-white cropped waist and sleeve jacket worn over a yellow jersey hooded top and white long sleeve top. To finish the look Morello showed a khaki color mini skirt. My last impression of this collection is how comfortable this collection looks and feels. Milan is not known to house the functional and comforting. Rather Milan designers tend to keep their craft in the refined leisurewear style with emphasis on tailoring. What is surprising of Frankie Morello’s Spring/Summer collection is that it fits in the New York design world but his talent for structure and eye for the woman form keeps him in Milan. Bravo Monsieur Morello!

View complete collection at Wireimage

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