Structure, tailoring, deconstruction and restructuring those are the strong viewpoints to Dhini Pararajasingham’s Spring/Summer collection. It’s evident that Dhini brought her tailoring talent from London into her collection. Previously Dhini was a member of the Boudicca design team and now she is testing the waters of Australia with her new label. The result is a tidal wave of design and structure. In the opening section she showed a series of restructured deconstructed looks, reworking classic pieces while adding new lines to each piece. Like rounding the edges of jacket openings, cropping trench coats on a bias as well as giving a slim pant balloon shape thigh. One of the standout of looks in the opening section is a gray cropped trench coat with long sleeves. The front opening of the jacket has been reshaped with layers of crescent panels over a wishbone opening with two large buttons. A unique piece from the collection that is worn with stone color cotton short that is overlaid with a brown tweed short and sectioned with cotton short.

Another strong look in the opening section is brown silk crepe pencil skirt with a flared hem and ruffles running down the back seams of the skirt. The skirt is worn with a sheer white gamine shirt with elbow length sleeve that is finished with a ruffle cuff. The color palette for the collection was predominantly black, white and khaki brown with a splash of red here and there! Dhini only showed one print in the collection, red poinsettia print, which she used in 4 looks. One of the standout print looks was the balloon shape pencil skirt worn with a skinny white belt and another version of Dhini’s cropped trench coat. This version has a short sleeve and matching belt worn high on the torso.

The must have look from the collection is longest trench coat that Dhini showed. A white cotton long sleeve trench coat with a double lapel and a flared shape to the coat, similar to a cape shape. Dhini belted the coat with the body of the coat gathered at the waist. To finish the look a matching white cotton pencil skirt a balloon shape in the front. For a small starter collection the overall execution and vision is complete. Several looks were offered from daywear to pant looks and even a few evening pieces. Two of the strongest trends Dhini emphasized was the balloon shape and belted torso’s. I am really interested in seeing more of Dhini next season, possibly a larger collection and more evening looks. Bravo Madame Pararajasingham!

View complete collection at Vogue Australia

[images via Australian Vogue]

Posted by turlie at 03:14 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

For Spring/Summer 07’ designer Belinda Fairbanks looks to the ski bunnies of Switzerland with a drop or two of 70’s Charlie’s Angels here and there. In the opening section Fairbanks showed a series of cashmere and wool knit dresses. The detailing of the knit is very simple with a Swiss design, while the length of the dress is very short and very sexy. One of the standout dresses in this section is the navy blue cashmere knit dress. The hem of skirt and the cuffs of the long sleeve ribbed and the neckline of the dress is wide v-neck. Fairbanks showed a gray version of the same dress, both dresses were worn with a black knit stockings.

A great theme this season is resurrection of 60’s and 70’s geometric prints. The combination of earthy colors of the 70’s and bold color combinations of the 60’s date the prints but the unique design adds a modern twist. Belinda showed only a handful of strong looks in the collection using prints. One of the strongest prints was a brown and green print on silk umbrae. She used the print on two great looks; first a simple smock dress with flared sleeves. The other look is floor length gown in silk umbrae with a single shoulder strap and finished with a white silk satin belt around the torso of the dress.

The must have piece from the collection is one of Fairbanks long sleeve knit dresses. The dress is red cashmere dress knit dress with ¾ length sleeves and the hem of the dress is to the knee. The length of the knit dress creates a pencil skirt shape and the look is finished with cropped black velvet vest and black knit stockings. The overlook of the collection is very fluid and Fairbanks really took some of the best looks or trends from 60’s and 70’s. One could even say that the look for the collection is very close to Brigit Bardot in the 60’s. While Belinda chose to show a few of last seasons trends like the baby doll dress she really took a chance and did what she felt outside of the box right now. While I would have loved to have seen longer skirts or gowns in the collection, Fairbanks sexy tailoring and fluid shapes really made this collection. Bravo Madame Fairbanks!

View complete collection at Vogue Australia

[images via Australian Vogue]

Posted by turlie at 03:10 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

American designers are struggling to keep their heads above water. One thing is for certain the newcomers seem to have the best luck for Spring/Summer. First up are Natalie Chanin and her design team at Project Alabama. This collection was a complete surprise and a true gift in sheep’s clothing. Everything from the summer dresses, tailored day jackets and embroidered skirts. The collection as a whole is a must have, if you can get your hands on one piece next month you are certainly a winner.

Diane Von Furstenberg presented a visually stunning collection for Spring/Summer. She gave us her bold and near perfect prints in all colors, density and shapes. Von Furstenberg explored this season’s dark palette but adding yellow, orange and red wherever she could. This red and white piece (dress & jacket) and her “New Look” dress in navy blue eyelet fabric are my must have picks for the season.

This season while everyone at New York fashion week went on and on about the dark pallet trend and how wonderful it was! I was pulling my hair out! But a handful of designers did give us some home for color this coming spring. One being Ms. Anna Sui, who abandoned her baby-doll dresses for light and fun summer dresses. I think Anna opted for no baby-doll dresses because everyone was doing it this season. Sui instead presented light Gatsby summer dresses with pale blue prints and pastel green embroidery. Both of these are my top pic for a Sui summer dress.

London was a little slim on the quality of collections. Only one designer stood out in the short week of fashion shows. Roksanda Ilincic presented a small collection this season and practically all-13 looks were perfect. From the cut to the form, right down to the couture fabrics.

In Milan, a few designers really took over Milan fashion week. An obvious pick is Alberta Ferretti and her label Philosophy and her namesake. Offering the must have dresses from Milan, From Philosophy’s silk satin flapper dress to Ferretti’s sleeveless panel dress with burnt amber and crisp whites satins.

The must have jacket from Milan most certainly belongs to Christopher Bailey for Burberry. The milk chocolate brown silk taffeta coat just floated down the runway. Catching the eye of every magazine editor, praying they get it early enough to shoot.

Now Paris can always be trusted, at least to give the world of fashion a hope for change. Well at least you can find more than 4 designers who can offer you something good.

First I must say that Nicholas Ghesquiere is a god in the making, of coarse his not at McQueen status right now. In his Spring/Summer collection for the House of Balenciaga, I am going to have to pick any of his romantic jackets or evening cocktail dresses. Especially this couture masterpiece, but wait its in a ready to wear line for the season. That means it’s easier on your pocket book.

Speaking of McQueen, of coarse his on my must have list…are you kidding. This season saw a lot of change for the designer. Showmen’s show for the fashion world and a collection that is not only wearable but dependable for the McQueen client. The must have down from Paris is most certainly McQueen’s backward gown with strands of gold beads over the bust. I am also still gushing over the deco inspired skirts in black and silver.

Although designer Karl Lagerfeld was on a exploration kick this season for the House of Chanel. He was able to not stray to far from the classic look of an honored House. The black cocktail dress with pastel lace tiers, its not only a new classic but sticking look for Chanel.

To close out this season I am going to shed the spotlight on a designer who not only brought delight to the editors in Paris but also shattered my preconception of his prior work. Lars Nilsson took the House of Nina Ricci on a new tangent for Spring/Summer. This season he presented a number of classic Ricci looks in new fabrics. The must have coat from Paris is the Ricci robe coat and his lave and jersey baby-doll dress.

The big trends of the season that you will see in the magazines are as followed:

1. Dark Palette (Black, Brown and Navy) the standout color of the season is the Techno Color blue.
2. There is most certainly a common masculine trend. Women in ties and slim suits.
3. Dior is God! Classic Dior gowns and dresses have been remastered by a number of designers this season. Here is to hoping these new designs educate the younger generations the necessity for classic design.
4. Lace is so pretty! Oh so pretty! Ruffles are so Fluffy, oh so Fluffy! The must have looks for the Spring/Summer season are lace and ruffle tops and dresses.
5. Everyone has a baby-doll dress this season….even Armani!
6. Accessories, you can never live without them…we may see them disappear now and then from the runways, but they will always come back!
7. Must have hand bags of the season, if you can get your hand on any of them, Diane Von Furstenberg

Thank you style

Posted by turlie at 03:30 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

Marc Jacobs decided to keep with this season color pallet in the opening of his Spring/Summer collection for the House of Vuitton. Mixing blacks, whites and browns. The Makeup and hair for the collection is clean and pulled back with just one embellishments, smokey eyes and hair barrettes. Although Jacobs and design team offered this season trends in the opening section, what came in the second section and the remainder of the collection was divinity for any label horror.

Marc and design team offered a number of pieces in this collection that are memorable reminders of Jacobs’s allegiance to the label. Summer dresses were clean cut with a plunging back; skin is radiant as the look for Vuitton in Spring/Summer. Jacobs also brought color to Paris, with deep purples, chartreuse, rust, orange and this seasons techno blue trend. Color is important as well as form for the designer. From the Mondrian jackets and dresses to the skirts and dresses in a rusty silk. Marc also showed a number of pieces in brightly colored patent leather dressed and skirts, the looks were too PVC and restrictive.

Marc Jacobs seems to attract those who find value in the name more than the quality. I know it may sound mean to judge the hip-hop community so bluntly, but if you were to ask them what fabric their Vuitton or Chanel dress is made of the stock answer would be “SILK”. Now, I will admit that they do have value and importance in the world of fashion.

Over the past 25 years, thanks to designers such as Jacobs, Versace and St, Laurent. The world of fashion has used the world of music as a marketing tool. Who do we have thank for this connection? Some in the business will be quick to lay credit to Vivienne Westwood and her sidekick Malcolm MacLaren. Who back in the 70’s molded the world of punk and created a fashion movement with her namesake label.

But this evolution can be traced back to the 30s and 40s. When designers and the world of film came together seamlessly. From this came the creation of muses such as Audrey Hepburn for Givenchy or Katherine Hepburn for Coco Chanel. This partnership continued to develop all the way to 60s with Catherine Deneuve and Yves St. Laurent.

Now back to Monsieur Jacobs and his collection Vuitton. My tangent had a target, the exploitation of a label in creating wealth in the brand recognition. Accessories are the best tools for this exploitation. Watching this collection you can easily be distracted by the amount of metallic accessories on the runway. From the belts, waist chains and even the bags. Two must have pieces are the standard LV bag with suede leather fringe which looks like a rainbow of colors covering the entire bag. The other is a bracelet with glass beading mixed with glass coral pieces. Of coarse there are matching earrings.

All though this collection has an abundance of standout accessories, the designer made sure there were enough embellished pieces. A parade of summer dresses in red, chartreuse and green had glass beading on the back, hip or even the neckline. He also showed a white dress and blouse covered in white glass and mirror tiles. Most certainly the inspiration was Monsieur Ribbane.

In the opening section Jacobs kept to the signature Jacobs/LV look his been building in the last 3 years. In this collection Marc added a sense of couture with rich fabrics and an abundance of little details. Like beading and embroidery, which is a shift of change for the label. I could easily see the inspiration of the 80’s in this collection and from such great designers as Ribbane as well as Ungaro and Lacroix.

Overall LV design team and Monsieur Jacobs have put together a memorable collection. Bravo.

thank you style.com

Posted by turlie at 03:29 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

Lars Nilsson presented a startling surprise for the House of Nina Ricci. A new look, which almost mirrors the classic Ricci form. This collection for Spring/Summer had the light and short look we have been aching to see in a number of collection weeks. Instead we were given dark colors and covered up skin all over.

Nilsson and his design team kept all of the editors and buyers toes tapping with excitement. Me included! There were so many standout pieces in this collection. Like all the skirts, and I mean all of them, especially the navy one with embroidered vertical lines in white. Nilsson even showed a baby-doll dress in navy with a white lace overlay.

Now you might wonder where this great amount of color was? Lets begin with the contrast stitch in persimmon and white. Floor length gowns with ribbon waists in pale blue/grey or a seersucker candy stripe floor length gown. Everyone seems set on the fact CZ was inspiration for this new look, but please refer to Ricci circa 1952 Spring/Summer Couture. I can list at least 30 women, American, who purchased the collection.

Now, for the remainder of my likes in this collection, there is the mini cape polo shirt, which we saw something similar from Jil Sander during Milan Fashion week. Then there is the star and flower print in different shades, but the standout color is this season techno color blue. Lars Nilsson has floored the Parisian fashion world. Season after season the designer has been presenting safe and somewhat predictable looks for the House of Ricci. This season Lars has presented not only a clean and summery collection but also a advancement in the houses philosophy of modern but classic works.

The must have pieces of the collection are ribbon strap jersey top and the coral jersey top with white lace overlay. A front runner for one of the best jackets of the season could be Lars remaster of a Nina Ricci's classic robe jacket. Very sexy and a classic piece in the making. This is most certainly great fete for Monsieur Nilsson. Bravo

thank you style.com

Posted by turlie at 03:28 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

John Galliano’s brings back to life his runway theatrics with his signature collection for Spring/Summer 06’. John’s ring master of ceremony screamed to guests “come one, come aged, come short, come tall, come exotic and come avant-garde. All shapes and ages graced the Galliano catwalk. What was really interesting is the designer incorporated all walks of life into this collection. From models to people you see every day, everyone was made up as Vixens, Latin Lovers and Starlets. Each model/actor in head to toe Galliano, even menswear.

Backstage John commented that he wanted everyone to feel and look beautiful. That he worked with some of the happiest people his ever meet and said “I just wanted to enhance their beauty”. The collection was homage to the era’s of cinema. He presented the collection is history of cinema themed runway. Galliano shifted the runway set from the silver screen all the way to modern day or future of cinema.

The opening section was homage to the silver screen; Galliano molded this section in a black and white pallet. Although there was no continuous look through this section, he opted ti mold decadent fabrics into classic Galliano shapes and looks. In the golden age section, Galliano focused on the mirror contrast of one’s looks, twins in contrasting colors or couple in two different era’s (20’s with 40’s).

In the final section the designer John holds a Fellini festival, building the models into characters, the geisha and garcson , the alien and the Barbie doll, even the Latin lover with the bollywood temptress. Although there are a lot of classic Galliano looks in the collection. There are some new looks, like the tulle shells in the opening section. A white skirt and one-piece dress were encased in contrasting black tulle. Even the 20’s inspired gowns with embroideries and beading.

With such a spectacle of a show, you may ask how can a buyer take something away from the show and sell it. I will admit that the collection as a whole is a bit of a repeat. Not only of Galliano’s name sake, but also of his work at the house of Dior. I would like to defend myself, only Galliano would have the galls to explore the world we live in and present a collection that celebrates how diverse we are and how fashion can mold to anyone – in any shape or age.

The must haves of the collection were the full-length tapestry bias cut coats. I also enjoyed the chartreuse gowns on Lily Cole and Gemma Ward. The marionette dolls were the best accessories of the collection. Bravo Monsieur Galliano for taking us into a new world.

thank you style.com

Posted by turlie at 03:27 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

For Spring/Summer 06, the House of Chloe is finally getting under the skin of its head designer Phoebe Philo. Season after season Phoebe and her design team have strayed from classic Chloe look from past. This season they have developed and mastered the soft and feminine look the label is known for. Phoebe herself seems to be making changes in her life and this collection proof. She may have changed from her golden lock to a new serious brunette, but this change is proof she’s a woman on a mission.

In the opening section, the designer hit the buyers with a plevee of laces baby doll dresses, gowns and tops. Although the abundance of softness in the pieces are perfect! The designer lost her focus in the form of several pieces. This section was presented in a black and white pallet.

In the second section the designer took the soft feminine look and flipped it with jackets, shorts and dresses that find its inspiration from Pierre Cardin. Any fashion nut would jump to the conclusion that Phoebe seemed to be lost this season trying to mix looks, but you have to stand back and appreciate the collection as a whole. She has finally found the true soul of the Chloe label and woman.

A number of pieces really jumped out at me in this collection. Like one baby doll dress that was short, in pale white and wide band hem and chiffon peter pan collar and tiered short sleeves. The abundance of femininity in this collection can be seen in all the little details. From the sheer tops with ruffle stripes, layers of lace and even ribbon details.

Backstage Philo comments this collection is about focusing on a clean and innocent look to the form and details of the collection. She worked with a number of couture fabrics in the collections and found it true learning experience. She found them not to versatile and developed a respect in her work with them. The end result is proof that her seriousness for providing a quality look for Chloe is evident.

In the past I have not shed to much light onto Phoebe and her work, as I found she took to much of her creative process from her former mentor Stella McCartney. Although her collections have been very wearable, I felt she was focusing on her own look rather than exploring the history of Chloe. This season Phoebe and her design team have broken down their barrier and finally present a truly Chloe looking collection. Chloe clients can finally rejoice!

The baby doll dresses are most certainly the must have of the collection. The big must have for the collection is most certainly that decadent yellow Cardin inspired jacket on Jessica Stam. It was gorgeous! Bravo Madam Philo for such a versatile collection.

thank you style.com

Posted by turlie at 03:24 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

It’s that time of year again, to get hooked on PROJECT RUNWAY. I fell in love with the show last year and my top pick from the beginning of the show won. Jay McCarrol is amazing and I saw a little Alexander McQueen in him. Well this season, it’s a little harder! Almost everyone is classically trained and have the vision of creating their unique styles. Everyone was ranting an raving about Santino before the show even started. All I have to say is the man is beyond full of himself, people who speak of themselves in the third person needs to be put down. I first turned on Santino at the interviews and his blasé reaction to being accepted as a designer on the show. While I am at it, a number of the contestant in the first episode had the same blasé reaction.

So this season the designers are getting really worked up to create something more than what the show is asking of them. I love it! For those of you watching and are not aware, but they actually auction off all the outfits on the Bravo website. Last year I did bid on a couple of pieces but lost them…this season I was bound and determined to win something. With the first two shows they ended up with two separate auctions. The second show was a little a miss in terms of pickings. But I loved a couple of pieces in the first season.

I placed a bid on three dresses, and ended up winning one.

http://projectrunway.auction.shopthescene.com/viewitem.php?item=5

The most annoying thing is this season, the people at Bravo have gotten greedy. The auctions are not really auctions. They have this new feature where, if someone places a bid within 5 minutes of the end of the auction, they extend the auction for 5 more minutes. Well, it keeps extending, until someone gives up! Bad play Bravo!

I also bought two of the Project Runway Barbies, of coarse one for my niece!

Posted by turlie at 03:12 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

So while in Paris last month, I did not get my invitation as I hoped for the McQueen show. Unfortunately I had to resort to the Internet for a look. This season McQueen is under the same pressure as Stella; by holding company the Gucci Group; to turn a profit. So far his created a new line of clothes for retailer H&M and also struck a deal with Puma for a new footwear line.

This season’s collection is all about classic McQueen. Alexander has molded this season’s collection to keeping his clients happy. By offering classic McQueen pieces in new looks, his managed to grab his clienteles heart strings and played a little song of warm and happy Spring/Summer.

McQueen revisited the Greco Roman woman and ripped her clothes off to create a classic modern McQueen look with a remarkable color palette. Alexander made sure the collection had a vast range of lengths, from full-length gowns, to shorts or even pleated pants and skirts. Speaking of pleated skirts, I almost fell of my chair when I saw the organ-pleated skirt with the art deco silver silk-screening. The way they moved and the absolute attention to recreating a classic.

The overlook for this collection seemed to be more clean lines and classic shapes. There was alot embellishments in this collection from the beading to the embroidering. One amazing example was the peach chiffon cocktail dress with contrast silver beading on the pleats. Beading also made an appearance on belts and bodices on a dress or two.

The only down side of this collection were all the patent leather dresses and skirts. I am not sure the look itself fell right into this collection; it seemed to stand out more. The high point of the show were all the backward gowns, one can easily say that they were so Victor & Rolf but they are on such a higher level. V&R attempted the whole backward collection and somewhat failed. Although McQueen offered only a handful of pieces and hit the nail on the head; the front of the gowns had the low-cut back with strand of chains covering the breast or the keyhole back with or without buttons. These gowns are most certainly the bed gowns to hit Paris fashion week.

I don't know where to begin about the white pant suit McQueen mastered. It seemed to just move on the models while the models was even walking. It's nothing like I have ever seen. So rare is when McQueen actually offers a suit and when he does, this proves its worth every penny.

Overall McQueen presented a classic and essential collection for the McQueen customer. Hope to retain those ever-faithful McQueen clients; this season is about tradition while holding the best for next Season. While in Paris I did take a walk over to the McQueen atelier in the Marais the day after the show. Sadly I think I was to early to see anything or anyone, my guess was they were still waking up from a long night of parties. Bravo Monsieur McQueen.

thank you style.com

Posted by turlie at 03:10 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

The Gucci group is keeping Stella McCartney the busiest woman in Fashion. Some may say she’s on a rampage to become the next Karl Lagerfeld by mirroring his constantly at work lifestyle. Overall Stella is proving she can concur any task thrown at her. With the growth of her label to meet the Gucci Groups expectation, opening stores worldwide and her new low cost clothing line for H&M. She has amassed a new reputation of the it girl; the it girl who can survive and come out on top. Only a few female designers have had that staying power in the last 30 years, such as Donna Karan, Carolina Herrera, Sonya Rhikiel and Vivienne Westwood.

This season Stella is clearly playing it safe along with her Gucci brother Alexander McQueen. This collection although very similar to seasons past, she is offering her loyal clients classic Stella pieces. She keeps true to her trademark color palette and classic McCartney shapes. The collection consisted a number of jersey pieces; the standout piece was the mauve polo collar jersey dress. She also showed a plunging tunic with clean embroidering.

All though Stella is not one for offering numerous prints or flashy embellishments, she tempts us every season with one print or piece that gives the collection a twist. This season she presented to two prints. The first is a jewelry chain print on silk jersey and chiffon, the print it self did not fit Stella nor the collection. The second was perfect, delicious shades of pinks and reds were mixed into a hot lips print on a number of floor length strapless and halter-top gowns.

McCartney only presented a few full-length pieces; most of the collection was molded into a sort look. This gave way to some of the bed cocktail dresses of the season or the summer 06’. The only real slow point of the collection was the chains print. The climax however was not during the show itself, rather the close of the show. Stella’s appearance at the end of the show was perfect, she looked great, smiled and just exuded a sense she can stand alone building her empire and still look like a million dollars.

Ladies get out those credit cards, the must have shoe for the season is Stella’s techno color heel. Not only does it fit this season strong color trend but also it adds another hot element to this perfect collection. Brave Stella

thank you style.com

Posted by turlie at 03:09 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

Karl Lagerfeld’s arrival in New York this month starts with some never expected to happen, Ever! Lagerfeld hosted a preview of Chanel’s upcoming Fall/Winter 06’ collection due to show in February 06’. The invite was for industry in crowd and the critics who love him. The designer closed down Chanel’s Flagship store in NYC for the show.

My first reaction to the collection was that Karl holds close to the founding mother of design. Classic Chanel pieces of the 20th century are remastered to lead the Couturie in getting respect of the industry. From the classic Coco narrow brim bowl hat to the Lesage Embroidery encrusted Chanel Suit. I can say for certain that these pieces seemed more couture than ready to wear. But then again that’s the quality Lagerfeld tends to exceed.

Monsieur Lagerfeld – BRAVO!

Posted by turlie at 03:07 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

Ungaro’s Spring/Summer collection is a complete farce. Designer Vincent Darre is now 0 for 2. After a parade of numerous copies of such designers like Tom Ford, St. Laurent and Ghesquiere. I am not sure if the blatant copies were the actual nauseating part of this collection. Or was it the ruffle upon ruffles on skirts, blouses and jackets. Only a handful of pieces actually first the Ungaro mold. I can’t even begin to explain how someone can turn beautiful Ungaro prints into complete crap! Overall Vincent is lost with in his restrictions of his craft. I will end with by saying nothing more! Enough said!

thank you style.com

Posted by turlie at 03:06 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

I almost got out of my seat at the Dries Van Noten. The designer opened his Spring/Summer to a depressing Boy Scout look. The opening section consisted mainly a khaki palette with little hints of red. In the first section the collection was pale and sickly. The models makeup seemed to be just as drowned out as the clothes themselves. Except for those red lips which were a lovely site. Luckily those red lips were a hint of what was to come.

In the second section Van Noten began to slowly add color into the yellow and khaki looks. He managed to bring life with vibrant shades of oranges, red, purples and black. He seem to be overreaching by mixing prints and stripes. It was in the third section of the show that my eyes were glued to the runway. Now there were only a handful of looks in this section that grabbed me; the purple and white print blouse with a bleeding purple waist.

The collection as whole seemed to build on Van Noten’s signature utility function look. At the close of the show the designer shifted from loose lines to a tailored look with jackets and skirts tailored on the models. The must have pick for this collection is the bias cut baby doll dress with embroidery.

thank you style.com

Posted by turlie at 03:05 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

For Spring/Summer the House of Rochas is getting covered up for the cold. Designer Olivier Theyskens adopted this seasons color palette of navy, black and white. Olivier continues to groom the Rochas collection for its timeless and elegant pieces. The opening of long gowns of organdy and taffeta were rich with simple details. The pant suits were cut perfectly, they had the lines and easiness of a classic St. Laurent suit.

They key pieces of this collection were all the turn of the century floor length evening gowns and skirts. What makes them special is the fact the house itself was created in 1925 by its namesake Monsieur Rochas never really present such a look. The gowns and skirts are an homage to such designer as Worth and Poiret. The details on the gowns are simple but noticeable. From the soft prints on chiffons, to Chinese embroidery even to the faint prints Monet prints in purple and teal.

Very little accessories were in the collection, a consummate signature of Monsieur Theyskens. The designer opted to have the hair showcase in the collection, braids tied the models hair acted as tiaras. The standout piece for me in this collection is metallic navy backless gown with the white chiffon under that peaks as the model walked. Bravo Monsieur Theyskens

thank you style.com

Posted by turlie at 03:04 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

Karl Lagerfeld is on the move this season; this collection will be the last to show in Paris. Karl and the Label are packing up and moving to New York City. Everyone was a buzz with this news during New York fashion week and everyone was worried if Karl can break the losing streak so many European designers have had in moving to NYC. Sadly designers like Versace and McQueen received warm welcomes but rapidly watched their labels get hit with bad sales from the move.

This being his last season Lagerfeld found inspiration in his new look and the next chapter of his career. The makeup and hair reflect the move, its clean and tossed up. The collection as a whole is very monotone but keeping to the black, navy color trend of the season. Karl focused on the shapes and details of the dresses, skirts and gowns. Several skirts are tiered and cut to create windows to the contrasting sheer fabrics.

Lagerfeld offered a vast array of looks; from long gowns to knee length dresses. Most of the stands out pieces were the pants and pant shorts. Another item that is a must have is the white jacket that is high waisted with draped ribbons of fabric falling from the back. The circle cutouts perplexed me, When they were large they made a bold statement. When they were little; they seemed to take away from the look overall.

This collection is not only wearable and sellable; it also stands out like a movement for the Gallery label into its next chapter along with Lagerfeld. Backstage Lagerfeld commented that this collection is about layering full panels on the pieces and there are no pleats in the collection. Then moving over to his grand muse Lady Amanda Harlech and her comments on the show. She states she loved the knife-edge chiffon pleating in the dresses. I think Lady Harlech missed the group meeting before the collection. To Monsieur Lagerfeld I must give a grand bravo, a near simple perfect collection. I hope his move to the states is a good one.

thank you style.com

Posted by turlie at 03:03 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

Hubert de Givenchy, I hope you were on holiday this fall on some deserted island in the pacific. The House of Givenchy new atelier Ricardo Tisci tackles his first ready to wear collection for the House. Unfortunately, Mr. Tisci was tackled to the ground in a painful yet embarrassing position. Backstage the designer is quoted to have borrowed from the Givenchy archives and reconstructed them for today and tomorrow.

Now I might sound a little brash against the collection, but I hold the House of Givenchy in such high regard. To see an inspirational and iconic house be thrown into the dirt by such weak talent is a travesty. Many complained about the trek they made to the show and to arrive, left waiting for over an hour was just more salt in their wounds. So many things just fell apart in this collection; from bulky poorly cut flare skirts to the bulky shoes, which the models had a rough time keeping on during most of the collection. The shoes were a distraction from the clothes themselves.

There were a couple of cute pieces, like the tulle overlay lace skirt and the dusty rose taffeta suit. There was to little to rave about, so many looks fell outside of the Givenchy look. Tisci seems to be jumping too far with this collection. Taking the label way to far into the future. Even the accessories like the wrestling/boxing looking belts and the square tie were so wrong on so many levels. I said it before and I will say it again, the board better rethink this decision.

thank you style.com

Posted by turlie at 03:01 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

The Couture House of Coco Chanel has found its new face. Actress Selma Blair was recently photographed by Karl Lagrafeld as the new face of Chanel. Selma follows along the line of many great Chanel muses, such as Vanessa Paradis, Nadja Auerman, Kate Moss, Christy Turlington and most recently Nicole Kidman. Selma is also one of only few that are American.

Posted by turlie at 03:00 PM | Per