Structure, tailoring, deconstruction and restructuring those are the strong viewpoints to Dhini Pararajasingham’s Spring/Summer collection. It’s evident that Dhini brought her tailoring talent from London into her collection. Previously Dhini was a member of the Boudicca design team and now she is testing the waters of Australia with her new label. The result is a tidal wave of design and structure. In the opening section she showed a series of restructured deconstructed looks, reworking classic pieces while adding new lines to each piece. Like rounding the edges of jacket openings, cropping trench coats on a bias as well as giving a slim pant balloon shape thigh. One of the standout of looks in the opening section is a gray cropped trench coat with long sleeves. The front opening of the jacket has been reshaped with layers of crescent panels over a wishbone opening with two large buttons. A unique piece from the collection that is worn with stone color cotton short that is overlaid with a brown tweed short and sectioned with cotton short.

Another strong look in the opening section is brown silk crepe pencil skirt with a flared hem and ruffles running down the back seams of the skirt. The skirt is worn with a sheer white gamine shirt with elbow length sleeve that is finished with a ruffle cuff. The color palette for the collection was predominantly black, white and khaki brown with a splash of red here and there! Dhini only showed one print in the collection, red poinsettia print, which she used in 4 looks. One of the standout print looks was the balloon shape pencil skirt worn with a skinny white belt and another version of Dhini’s cropped trench coat. This version has a short sleeve and matching belt worn high on the torso.

The must have look from the collection is longest trench coat that Dhini showed. A white cotton long sleeve trench coat with a double lapel and a flared shape to the coat, similar to a cape shape. Dhini belted the coat with the body of the coat gathered at the waist. To finish the look a matching white cotton pencil skirt a balloon shape in the front. For a small starter collection the overall execution and vision is complete. Several looks were offered from daywear to pant looks and even a few evening pieces. Two of the strongest trends Dhini emphasized was the balloon shape and belted torso’s. I am really interested in seeing more of Dhini next season, possibly a larger collection and more evening looks. Bravo Madame Pararajasingham!

View complete collection at Vogue Australia

[images via Australian Vogue]

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For Spring/Summer 07’ designer Belinda Fairbanks looks to the ski bunnies of Switzerland with a drop or two of 70’s Charlie’s Angels here and there. In the opening section Fairbanks showed a series of cashmere and wool knit dresses. The detailing of the knit is very simple with a Swiss design, while the length of the dress is very short and very sexy. One of the standout dresses in this section is the navy blue cashmere knit dress. The hem of skirt and the cuffs of the long sleeve ribbed and the neckline of the dress is wide v-neck. Fairbanks showed a gray version of the same dress, both dresses were worn with a black knit stockings.

A great theme this season is resurrection of 60’s and 70’s geometric prints. The combination of earthy colors of the 70’s and bold color combinations of the 60’s date the prints but the unique design adds a modern twist. Belinda showed only a handful of strong looks in the collection using prints. One of the strongest prints was a brown and green print on silk umbrae. She used the print on two great looks; first a simple smock dress with flared sleeves. The other look is floor length gown in silk umbrae with a single shoulder strap and finished with a white silk satin belt around the torso of the dress.

The must have piece from the collection is one of Fairbanks long sleeve knit dresses. The dress is red cashmere dress knit dress with ¾ length sleeves and the hem of the dress is to the knee. The length of the knit dress creates a pencil skirt shape and the look is finished with cropped black velvet vest and black knit stockings. The overlook of the collection is very fluid and Fairbanks really took some of the best looks or trends from 60’s and 70’s. One could even say that the look for the collection is very close to Brigit Bardot in the 60’s. While Belinda chose to show a few of last seasons trends like the baby doll dress she really took a chance and did what she felt outside of the box right now. While I would have loved to have seen longer skirts or gowns in the collection, Fairbanks sexy tailoring and fluid shapes really made this collection. Bravo Madame Fairbanks!

View complete collection at Vogue Australia

[images via Australian Vogue]

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American designers are struggling to keep their heads above water. One thing is for certain the newcomers seem to have the best luck for Spring/Summer. First up are Natalie Chanin and her design team at Project Alabama. This collection was a complete surprise and a true gift in sheep’s clothing. Everything from the summer dresses, tailored day jackets and embroidered skirts. The collection as a whole is a must have, if you can get your hands on one piece next month you are certainly a winner.

Diane Von Furstenberg presented a visually stunning collection for Spring/Summer. She gave us her bold and near perfect prints in all colors, density and shapes. Von Furstenberg explored this season’s dark palette but adding yellow, orange and red wherever she could. This red and white piece (dress & jacket) and her “New Look” dress in navy blue eyelet fabric are my must have picks for the season.

This season while everyone at New York fashion week went on and on about the dark pallet trend and how wonderful it was! I was pulling my hair out! But a handful of designers did give us some home for color this coming spring. One being Ms. Anna Sui, who abandoned her baby-doll dresses for light and fun summer dresses. I think Anna opted for no baby-doll dresses because everyone was doing it this season. Sui instead presented light Gatsby summer dresses with pale blue prints and pastel green embroidery. Both of these are my top pic for a Sui summer dress.

London was a little slim on the quality of collections. Only one designer stood out in the short week of fashion shows. Roksanda Ilincic presented a small collection this season and practically all-13 looks were perfect. From the cut to the form, right down to the couture fabrics.

In Milan, a few designers really took over Milan fashion week. An obvious pick is Alberta Ferretti and her label Philosophy and her namesake. Offering the must have dresses from Milan, From Philosophy’s silk satin flapper dress to Ferretti’s sleeveless panel dress with burnt amber and crisp whites satins.

The must have jacket from Milan most certainly belongs to Christopher Bailey for Burberry. The milk chocolate brown silk taffeta coat just floated down the runway. Catching the eye of every magazine editor, praying they get it early enough to shoot.

Now Paris can always be trusted, at least to give the world of fashion a hope for change. Well at least you can find more than 4 designers who can offer you something good.

First I must say that Nicholas Ghesquiere is a god in the making, of coarse his not at McQueen status right now. In his Spring/Summer collection for the House of Balenciaga, I am going to have to pick any of his romantic jackets or evening cocktail dresses. Especially this couture masterpiece, but wait its in a ready to wear line for the season. That means it’s easier on your pocket book.

Speaking of McQueen, of coarse his on my must have list…are you kidding. This season saw a lot of change for the designer. Showmen’s show for the fashion world and a collection that is not only wearable but dependable for the McQueen client. The must have down from Paris is most certainly McQueen’s backward gown with strands of gold beads over the bust. I am also still gushing over the deco inspired skirts in black and silver.

Although designer Karl Lagerfeld was on a exploration kick this season for the House of Chanel. He was able to not stray to far from the classic look of an honored House. The black cocktail dress with pastel lace tiers, its not only a new classic but sticking look for Chanel.

To close out this season I am going to shed the spotlight on a designer who not only brought delight to the editors in Paris but also shattered my preconception of his prior work. Lars Nilsson took the House of Nina Ricci on a new tangent for Spring/Summer. This season he presented a number of classic Ricci looks in new fabrics. The must have coat from Paris is the Ricci robe coat and his lave and jersey baby-doll dress.

The big trends of the season that you will see in the magazines are as followed:

1. Dark Palette (Black, Brown and Navy) the standout color of the season is the Techno Color blue.
2. There is most certainly a common masculine trend. Women in ties and slim suits.
3. Dior is God! Classic Dior gowns and dresses have been remastered by a number of designers this season. Here is to hoping these new designs educate the younger generations the necessity for classic design.
4. Lace is so pretty! Oh so pretty! Ruffles are so Fluffy, oh so Fluffy! The must have looks for the Spring/Summer season are lace and ruffle tops and dresses.
5. Everyone has a baby-doll dress this season….even Armani!
6. Accessories, you can never live without them…we may see them disappear now and then from the runways, but they will always come back!
7. Must have hand bags of the season, if you can get your hand on any of them, Diane Von Furstenberg

Thank you style

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Marc Jacobs decided to keep with this season color pallet in the opening of his Spring/Summer collection for the House of Vuitton. Mixing blacks, whites and browns. The Makeup and hair for the collection is clean and pulled back with just one embellishments, smokey eyes and hair barrettes. Although Jacobs and design team offered this season trends in the opening section, what came in the second section and the remainder of the collection was divinity for any label horror.

Marc and design team offered a number of pieces in this collection that are memorable reminders of Jacobs’s allegiance to the label. Summer dresses were clean cut with a plunging back; skin is radiant as the look for Vuitton in Spring/Summer. Jacobs also brought color to Paris, with deep purples, chartreuse, rust, orange and this seasons techno blue trend. Color is important as well as form for the designer. From the Mondrian jackets and dresses to the skirts and dresses in a rusty silk. Marc also showed a number of pieces in brightly colored patent leather dressed and skirts, the looks were too PVC and restrictive.

Marc Jacobs seems to attract those who find value in the name more than the quality. I know it may sound mean to judge the hip-hop community so bluntly, but if you were to ask them what fabric their Vuitton or Chanel dress is made of the stock answer would be “SILK”. Now, I will admit that they do have value and importance in the world of fashion.

Over the past 25 years, thanks to designers such as Jacobs, Versace and St, Laurent. The world of fashion has used the world of music as a marketing tool. Who do we have thank for this connection? Some in the business will be quick to lay credit to Vivienne Westwood and her sidekick Malcolm MacLaren. Who back in the 70’s molded the world of punk and created a fashion movement with her namesake label.

But this evolution can be traced back to the 30s and 40s. When designers and the world of film came together seamlessly. From this came the creation of muses such as Audrey Hepburn for Givenchy or Katherine Hepburn for Coco Chanel. This partnership continued to develop all the way to 60s with Catherine Deneuve and Yves St. Laurent.

Now back to Monsieur Jacobs and his collection Vuitton. My tangent had a target, the exploitation of a label in creating wealth in the brand recognition. Accessories are the best tools for this exploitation. Watching this collection you can easily be distracted by the amount of metallic accessories on the runway. From the belts, waist chains and even the bags. Two must have pieces are the standard LV bag with suede leather fringe which looks like a rainbow of colors covering the entire bag. The other is a bracelet with glass beading mixed with glass coral pieces. Of coarse there are matching earrings.

All though this collection has an abundance of standout accessories, the designer made sure there were enough embellished pieces. A parade of summer dresses in red, chartreuse and green had glass beading on the back, hip or even the neckline. He also showed a white dress and blouse covered in white glass and mirror tiles. Most certainly the inspiration was Monsieur Ribbane.

In the opening section Jacobs kept to the signature Jacobs/LV look his been building in the last 3 years. In this collection Marc added a sense of couture with rich fabrics and an abundance of little details. Like beading and embroidery, which is a shift of change for the label. I could easily see the inspiration of the 80’s in this collection and from such great designers as Ribbane as well as Ungaro and Lacroix.

Overall LV design team and Monsieur Jacobs have put together a memorable collection. Bravo.

thank you style.com

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Lars Nilsson presented a startling surprise for the House of Nina Ricci. A new look, which almost mirrors the classic Ricci form. This collection for Spring/Summer had the light and short look we have been aching to see in a number of collection weeks. Instead we were given dark colors and covered up skin all over.

Nilsson and his design team kept all of the editors and buyers toes tapping with excitement. Me included! There were so many standout pieces in this collection. Like all the skirts, and I mean all of them, especially the navy one with embroidered vertical lines in white. Nilsson even showed a baby-doll dress in navy with a white lace overlay.

Now you might wonder where this great amount of color was? Lets begin with the contrast stitch in persimmon and white. Floor length gowns with ribbon waists in pale blue/grey or a seersucker candy stripe floor length gown. Everyone seems set on the fact CZ was inspiration for this new look, but please refer to Ricci circa 1952 Spring/Summer Couture. I can list at least 30 women, American, who purchased the collection.

Now, for the remainder of my likes in this collection, there is the mini cape polo shirt, which we saw something similar from Jil Sander during Milan Fashion week. Then there is the star and flower print in different shades, but the standout color is this season techno color blue. Lars Nilsson has floored the Parisian fashion world. Season after season the designer has been presenting safe and somewhat predictable looks for the House of Ricci. This season Lars has presented not only a clean and summery collection but also a advancement in the houses philosophy of modern but classic works.

The must have pieces of the collection are ribbon strap jersey top and the coral jersey top with white lace overlay. A front runner for one of the best jackets of the season could be Lars remaster of a Nina Ricci's classic robe jacket. Very sexy and a classic piece in the making. This is most certainly great fete for Monsieur Nilsson. Bravo

thank you style.com

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John Galliano’s brings back to life his runway theatrics with his signature collection for Spring/Summer 06’. John’s ring master of ceremony screamed to guests “come one, come aged, come short, come tall, come exotic and come avant-garde. All shapes and ages graced the Galliano catwalk. What was really interesting is the designer incorporated all walks of life into this collection. From models to people you see every day, everyone was made up as Vixens, Latin Lovers and Starlets. Each model/actor in head to toe Galliano, even menswear.

Backstage John commented that he wanted everyone to feel and look beautiful. That he worked with some of the happiest people his ever meet and said “I just wanted to enhance their beauty”. The collection was homage to the era’s of cinema. He presented the collection is history of cinema themed runway. Galliano shifted the runway set from the silver screen all the way to modern day or future of cinema.

The opening section was homage to the silver screen; Galliano molded this section in a black and white pallet. Although there was no continuous look through this section, he opted ti mold decadent fabrics into classic Galliano shapes and looks. In the golden age section, Galliano focused on the mirror contrast of one’s looks, twins in contrasting colors or couple in two different era’s (20’s with 40’s).

In the final section the designer John holds a Fellini festival, building the models into characters, the geisha and garcson , the alien and the Barbie doll, even the Latin lover with the bollywood temptress. Although there are a lot of classic Galliano looks in the collection. There are some new looks, like the tulle shells in the opening section. A white skirt and one-piece dress were encased in contrasting black tulle. Even the 20’s inspired gowns with embroideries and beading.

With such a spectacle of a show, you may ask how can a buyer take something away from the show and sell it. I will admit that the collection as a whole is a bit of a repeat. Not only of Galliano’s name sake, but also of his work at the house of Dior. I would like to defend myself, only Galliano would have the galls to explore the world we live in and present a collection that celebrates how diverse we are and how fashion can mold to anyone – in any shape or age.

The must haves of the collection were the full-length tapestry bias cut coats. I also enjoyed the chartreuse gowns on Lily Cole and Gemma Ward. The marionette dolls were the best accessories of the collection. Bravo Monsieur Galliano for taking us into a new world.

thank you style.com

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For Spring/Summer 06, the House of Chloe is finally getting under the skin of its head designer Phoebe Philo. Season after season Phoebe and her design team have strayed from classic Chloe look from past. This season they have developed and mastered the soft and feminine look the label is known for. Phoebe herself seems to be making changes in her life and this collection proof. She may have changed from her golden lock to a new serious brunette, but this change is proof she’s a woman on a mission.

In the opening section, the designer hit the buyers with a plevee of laces baby doll dresses, gowns and tops. Although the abundance of softness in the pieces are perfect! The designer lost her focus in the form of several pieces. This section was presented in a black and white pallet.

In the second section the designer took the soft feminine look and flipped it with jackets, shorts and dresses that find its inspiration from Pierre Cardin. Any fashion nut would jump to the conclusion that Phoebe seemed to be lost this season trying to mix looks, but you have to stand back and appreciate the collection as a whole. She has finally found the true soul of the Chloe label and woman.

A number of pieces really jumped out at me in this collection. Like one baby doll dress that was short, in pale white and wide band hem and chiffon peter pan collar and tiered short sleeves. The abundance of femininity in this collection can be seen in all the little details. From the sheer tops with ruffle stripes, layers of lace and even ribbon details.

Backstage Philo comments this collection is about focusing on a clean and innocent look to the form and details of the collection. She worked with a number of couture fabrics in the collections and found it true learning experience. She found them not to versatile and developed a respect in her work with them. The end result is proof that her seriousness for providing a quality look for Chloe is evident.

In the past I have not shed to much light onto Phoebe and her work, as I found she took to much of her creative process from her former mentor Stella McCartney. Although her collections have been very wearable, I felt she was focusing on her own look rather than exploring the history of Chloe. This season Phoebe and her design team have broken down their barrier and finally present a truly Chloe looking collection. Chloe clients can finally rejoice!

The baby doll dresses are most certainly the must have of the collection. The big must have for the collection is most certainly that decadent yellow Cardin inspired jacket on Jessica Stam. It was gorgeous! Bravo Madam Philo for such a versatile collection.

thank you style.com

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It’s that time of year again, to get hooked on PROJECT RUNWAY. I fell in love with the show last year and my top pick from the beginning of the show won. Jay McCarrol is amazing and I saw a little Alexander McQueen in him. Well this season, it’s a little harder! Almost everyone is classically trained and have the vision of creating their unique styles. Everyone was ranting an raving about Santino before the show even started. All I have to say is the man is beyond full of himself, people who speak of themselves in the third person needs to be put down. I first turned on Santino at the interviews and his blasé reaction to being accepted as a designer on the show. While I am at it, a number of the contestant in the first episode had the same blasé reaction.

So this season the designers are getting really worked up to create something more than what the show is asking of them. I love it! For those of you watching and are not aware, but they actually auction off all the outfits on the Bravo website. Last year I did bid on a couple of pieces but lost them…this season I was bound and determined to win something. With the first two shows they ended up with two separate auctions. The second show was a little a miss in terms of pickings. But I loved a couple of pieces in the first season.

I placed a bid on three dresses, and ended up winning one.

http://projectrunway.auction.shopthescene.com/viewitem.php?item=5

The most annoying thing is this season, the people at Bravo have gotten greedy. The auctions are not really auctions. They have this new feature where, if someone places a bid within 5 minutes of the end of the auction, they extend the auction for 5 more minutes. Well, it keeps extending, until someone gives up! Bad play Bravo!

I also bought two of the Project Runway Barbies, of coarse one for my niece!

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So while in Paris last month, I did not get my invitation as I hoped for the McQueen show. Unfortunately I had to resort to the Internet for a look. This season McQueen is under the same pressure as Stella; by holding company the Gucci Group; to turn a profit. So far his created a new line of clothes for retailer H&M and also struck a deal with Puma for a new footwear line.

This season’s collection is all about classic McQueen. Alexander has molded this season’s collection to keeping his clients happy. By offering classic McQueen pieces in new looks, his managed to grab his clienteles heart strings and played a little song of warm and happy Spring/Summer.

McQueen revisited the Greco Roman woman and ripped her clothes off to create a classic modern McQueen look with a remarkable color palette. Alexander made sure the collection had a vast range of lengths, from full-length gowns, to shorts or even pleated pants and skirts. Speaking of pleated skirts, I almost fell of my chair when I saw the organ-pleated skirt with the art deco silver silk-screening. The way they moved and the absolute attention to recreating a classic.

The overlook for this collection seemed to be more clean lines and classic shapes. There was alot embellishments in this collection from the beading to the embroidering. One amazing example was the peach chiffon cocktail dress with contrast silver beading on the pleats. Beading also made an appearance on belts and bodices on a dress or two.

The only down side of this collection were all the patent leather dresses and skirts. I am not sure the look itself fell right into this collection; it seemed to stand out more. The high point of the show were all the backward gowns, one can easily say that they were so Victor & Rolf but they are on such a higher level. V&R attempted the whole backward collection and somewhat failed. Although McQueen offered only a handful of pieces and hit the nail on the head; the front of the gowns had the low-cut back with strand of chains covering the breast or the keyhole back with or without buttons. These gowns are most certainly the bed gowns to hit Paris fashion week.

I don't know where to begin about the white pant suit McQueen mastered. It seemed to just move on the models while the models was even walking. It's nothing like I have ever seen. So rare is when McQueen actually offers a suit and when he does, this proves its worth every penny.

Overall McQueen presented a classic and essential collection for the McQueen customer. Hope to retain those ever-faithful McQueen clients; this season is about tradition while holding the best for next Season. While in Paris I did take a walk over to the McQueen atelier in the Marais the day after the show. Sadly I think I was to early to see anything or anyone, my guess was they were still waking up from a long night of parties. Bravo Monsieur McQueen.

thank you style.com

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The Gucci group is keeping Stella McCartney the busiest woman in Fashion. Some may say she’s on a rampage to become the next Karl Lagerfeld by mirroring his constantly at work lifestyle. Overall Stella is proving she can concur any task thrown at her. With the growth of her label to meet the Gucci Groups expectation, opening stores worldwide and her new low cost clothing line for H&M. She has amassed a new reputation of the it girl; the it girl who can survive and come out on top. Only a few female designers have had that staying power in the last 30 years, such as Donna Karan, Carolina Herrera, Sonya Rhikiel and Vivienne Westwood.

This season Stella is clearly playing it safe along with her Gucci brother Alexander McQueen. This collection although very similar to seasons past, she is offering her loyal clients classic Stella pieces. She keeps true to her trademark color palette and classic McCartney shapes. The collection consisted a number of jersey pieces; the standout piece was the mauve polo collar jersey dress. She also showed a plunging tunic with clean embroidering.

All though Stella is not one for offering numerous prints or flashy embellishments, she tempts us every season with one print or piece that gives the collection a twist. This season she presented to two prints. The first is a jewelry chain print on silk jersey and chiffon, the print it self did not fit Stella nor the collection. The second was perfect, delicious shades of pinks and reds were mixed into a hot lips print on a number of floor length strapless and halter-top gowns.

McCartney only presented a few full-length pieces; most of the collection was molded into a sort look. This gave way to some of the bed cocktail dresses of the season or the summer 06’. The only real slow point of the collection was the chains print. The climax however was not during the show itself, rather the close of the show. Stella’s appearance at the end of the show was perfect, she looked great, smiled and just exuded a sense she can stand alone building her empire and still look like a million dollars.

Ladies get out those credit cards, the must have shoe for the season is Stella’s techno color heel. Not only does it fit this season strong color trend but also it adds another hot element to this perfect collection. Brave Stella

thank you style.com

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Karl Lagerfeld’s arrival in New York this month starts with some never expected to happen, Ever! Lagerfeld hosted a preview of Chanel’s upcoming Fall/Winter 06’ collection due to show in February 06’. The invite was for industry in crowd and the critics who love him. The designer closed down Chanel’s Flagship store in NYC for the show.

My first reaction to the collection was that Karl holds close to the founding mother of design. Classic Chanel pieces of the 20th century are remastered to lead the Couturie in getting respect of the industry. From the classic Coco narrow brim bowl hat to the Lesage Embroidery encrusted Chanel Suit. I can say for certain that these pieces seemed more couture than ready to wear. But then again that’s the quality Lagerfeld tends to exceed.

Monsieur Lagerfeld – BRAVO!

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Ungaro’s Spring/Summer collection is a complete farce. Designer Vincent Darre is now 0 for 2. After a parade of numerous copies of such designers like Tom Ford, St. Laurent and Ghesquiere. I am not sure if the blatant copies were the actual nauseating part of this collection. Or was it the ruffle upon ruffles on skirts, blouses and jackets. Only a handful of pieces actually first the Ungaro mold. I can’t even begin to explain how someone can turn beautiful Ungaro prints into complete crap! Overall Vincent is lost with in his restrictions of his craft. I will end with by saying nothing more! Enough said!

thank you style.com

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I almost got out of my seat at the Dries Van Noten. The designer opened his Spring/Summer to a depressing Boy Scout look. The opening section consisted mainly a khaki palette with little hints of red. In the first section the collection was pale and sickly. The models makeup seemed to be just as drowned out as the clothes themselves. Except for those red lips which were a lovely site. Luckily those red lips were a hint of what was to come.

In the second section Van Noten began to slowly add color into the yellow and khaki looks. He managed to bring life with vibrant shades of oranges, red, purples and black. He seem to be overreaching by mixing prints and stripes. It was in the third section of the show that my eyes were glued to the runway. Now there were only a handful of looks in this section that grabbed me; the purple and white print blouse with a bleeding purple waist.

The collection as whole seemed to build on Van Noten’s signature utility function look. At the close of the show the designer shifted from loose lines to a tailored look with jackets and skirts tailored on the models. The must have pick for this collection is the bias cut baby doll dress with embroidery.

thank you style.com

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For Spring/Summer the House of Rochas is getting covered up for the cold. Designer Olivier Theyskens adopted this seasons color palette of navy, black and white. Olivier continues to groom the Rochas collection for its timeless and elegant pieces. The opening of long gowns of organdy and taffeta were rich with simple details. The pant suits were cut perfectly, they had the lines and easiness of a classic St. Laurent suit.

They key pieces of this collection were all the turn of the century floor length evening gowns and skirts. What makes them special is the fact the house itself was created in 1925 by its namesake Monsieur Rochas never really present such a look. The gowns and skirts are an homage to such designer as Worth and Poiret. The details on the gowns are simple but noticeable. From the soft prints on chiffons, to Chinese embroidery even to the faint prints Monet prints in purple and teal.

Very little accessories were in the collection, a consummate signature of Monsieur Theyskens. The designer opted to have the hair showcase in the collection, braids tied the models hair acted as tiaras. The standout piece for me in this collection is metallic navy backless gown with the white chiffon under that peaks as the model walked. Bravo Monsieur Theyskens

thank you style.com

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Karl Lagerfeld is on the move this season; this collection will be the last to show in Paris. Karl and the Label are packing up and moving to New York City. Everyone was a buzz with this news during New York fashion week and everyone was worried if Karl can break the losing streak so many European designers have had in moving to NYC. Sadly designers like Versace and McQueen received warm welcomes but rapidly watched their labels get hit with bad sales from the move.

This being his last season Lagerfeld found inspiration in his new look and the next chapter of his career. The makeup and hair reflect the move, its clean and tossed up. The collection as a whole is very monotone but keeping to the black, navy color trend of the season. Karl focused on the shapes and details of the dresses, skirts and gowns. Several skirts are tiered and cut to create windows to the contrasting sheer fabrics.

Lagerfeld offered a vast array of looks; from long gowns to knee length dresses. Most of the stands out pieces were the pants and pant shorts. Another item that is a must have is the white jacket that is high waisted with draped ribbons of fabric falling from the back. The circle cutouts perplexed me, When they were large they made a bold statement. When they were little; they seemed to take away from the look overall.

This collection is not only wearable and sellable; it also stands out like a movement for the Gallery label into its next chapter along with Lagerfeld. Backstage Lagerfeld commented that this collection is about layering full panels on the pieces and there are no pleats in the collection. Then moving over to his grand muse Lady Amanda Harlech and her comments on the show. She states she loved the knife-edge chiffon pleating in the dresses. I think Lady Harlech missed the group meeting before the collection. To Monsieur Lagerfeld I must give a grand bravo, a near simple perfect collection. I hope his move to the states is a good one.

thank you style.com

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Hubert de Givenchy, I hope you were on holiday this fall on some deserted island in the pacific. The House of Givenchy new atelier Ricardo Tisci tackles his first ready to wear collection for the House. Unfortunately, Mr. Tisci was tackled to the ground in a painful yet embarrassing position. Backstage the designer is quoted to have borrowed from the Givenchy archives and reconstructed them for today and tomorrow.

Now I might sound a little brash against the collection, but I hold the House of Givenchy in such high regard. To see an inspirational and iconic house be thrown into the dirt by such weak talent is a travesty. Many complained about the trek they made to the show and to arrive, left waiting for over an hour was just more salt in their wounds. So many things just fell apart in this collection; from bulky poorly cut flare skirts to the bulky shoes, which the models had a rough time keeping on during most of the collection. The shoes were a distraction from the clothes themselves.

There were a couple of cute pieces, like the tulle overlay lace skirt and the dusty rose taffeta suit. There was to little to rave about, so many looks fell outside of the Givenchy look. Tisci seems to be jumping too far with this collection. Taking the label way to far into the future. Even the accessories like the wrestling/boxing looking belts and the square tie were so wrong on so many levels. I said it before and I will say it again, the board better rethink this decision.

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The Couture House of Coco Chanel has found its new face. Actress Selma Blair was recently photographed by Karl Lagrafeld as the new face of Chanel. Selma follows along the line of many great Chanel muses, such as Vanessa Paradis, Nadja Auerman, Kate Moss, Christy Turlington and most recently Nicole Kidman. Selma is also one of only few that are American.

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Actress Wendie Jo Sperber passed away on Tuesday after a long battle with cancer. Darn that cancer! I Loved Wendy Jo, I first saw her on the 80's Sleeper Hit - Bussom Buddies with Tom Hanks and Donna Dixon. Later she went on to appear in some hilarious "B" Comedies that are now classics - Like "Bachelor Party", "Sorority Boys" and my all-time favorite "Stewardess School". She also appeared on Will & Grace as one of my favorite walkon characters.....April the Screaming Selfhelp Maid. Wendie will be missed! (Wendie is pictured lower right)

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Véronique Branquinho's collection this Spring/Summer is a safe venture for the customer. She opened the show with a number of pieces that were very simple and did not keep to one designed look. Like, the 80’s geometric sweater in black and white. The opening pieces seemed to be bad flashback to the new wave era. Véronique did stretch leggings paired with dresses and shorts, which killed the overall look on the models. The jersey dresses were to baggy and overworked.

At the middle of the show Branquicho seemed to switch teams. The collection took a turn of refined monochromatic look. Clean lines and classic forms molded each piece. What is really eerie about this collection is how similar the looks were to Nicholas Ghesquiere. One can almost say that this collection mirrors the Balenciaga line of season’s past. The must have piece in the collection is the pinstripe grey shorts that are cut to the leg.

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Vivienne Westwood is on a rampage this season. Westwood jumps into the political advocacy arena while deconstructing the tailored woman of the 21st century. After the show, Vivienne explained that the drive for this collection was based on the symbols of “AR” (Active Resistance to Propaganda). This symbol took shape as Logo, Label, Silk Screen Statements and lettering.

As she focused on the political outcomes to being free of the “MAN”. Westwood took the tailored woman of today and turned her inside out. She mixed strong prints with bold graffiti art prints. Along with the bold prints she reconstructed pin stripe suits, shirts and skirts. I like to call it the ladies suit remastered.

Westwood seemed to channel the Commes de Garcons philosophy of reconstruct and renew. Skirts were homage to abstract and asymmetrical lines and shapes. There was no continuous form in any of the pieces, each piece seems to take on its own statement and look. This is most certainly keeping true to Westwood’s drive for the collection. Some may look at this collection and scream that looks to slouchy or unkempt. Take a moment and look twice at these pieces. There is a true vision of her collection.

Westwood combined numerous fabrics, prints in each look. The one piece I fell in love with was the teal & orange contrast Japanese print skirt suit. The opening section of screaming prints on pencil skirts and contrasting jackets were amazing. The section of striped stretch skirts and pants with a tie-dye print screened on them. The Westwood pant this season is high waisted and in bold colors. The close of the show was a plevy of 80’s big prom gowns reconstructed. Taffeta and more Taffeta! They appeared to be weightless on the models. These gowns, although signature for Westwood were a great close to a bold and remastered look for Vivienne and her team. Bravo Madam Westwood.

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John Galliano journeys into the world of muses this season, but opting for a modern beauty of our time. This season Galliano calls for his longtime friend and former model, Stella Tennent to shed her light on this season’s collection. Galliano looks to Tennents feminine but masculine features and explores the edges of limits in this almost divine feminine collection. Pat McGrath shifted this inspiration in the makeup.

Lace was a must accent in the opening pieces along with the nude palette for the fabrics. Each had little black to offset the abundance of nude. The nude trench with the tulle inlays and white ribbon contrast was a perfect example of the refined Dior opulence. I loved the nude sequenced trench with the tapered leg pants. The standout piece in the opening was the nude pants with the torn lace fishnets stockings shorts on top of the pants.

In the middle section of the collection Galliano splashed the refreshing color into the nude pieces. The vibrant hues of purple, orange and then morphing into tarnished yellows and browns. John fades the colors into his nude palette and then shifts fabrics from sating and then back to tulle. The forms overall were breathtaking but not too unwearable.

The mass volumes he looked to achieve in the South American section seemed to be lost. Lost in the form and lost in the look! Although I liked the leather and denim pants, which will be hot sale item for the house next spring. Although I was happy to see some splash of color in the collection – the plevy of nude shifted my interests elsewhere. I am happy to report that the Dior saddle bag is finally making it morph, although very slowly.

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Nicholas Ghesquiere has floored me yet again. When I look back at my notes for his Spring/Summer collection for the house of Balenciaga. Every item I noted was marked Love, Love, Love, Love. Nicholas is the best thing to happen to the house of Balenciaga since Cristobal Balenciaga himself. His presentation for the Spring/Summer met with raving wow’s and everyone clapping.

This collection was a transfer from the modern and tailored Ghesquiere to a more romantic but modern woman, a must for the Balenciaga woman. The opening suits with their black and white stripped jackets seem to move easily on the models. Such close tailoring tend to make the wearer look stiff. Paired with many well-tailored jackets are the navy, silver and steel toned pants. A close tapered leg gave the pants a futuristic switch in the looks. Through these strong and masculine looks comes the new breath and look.

A series of 3 cocktail dresses with a flowering shape emerged and set a new tone for the remainder of the collection. The skirts on these dresses were encircled with different sizes of ribbons, in shades of Black, White and Ivory. Nicholas explored this new feminine form and presented a number of cocktail dresses and gowns with multiple prints paired with lace inserts. The lace insert gowns had a simple and sexy look of nigh gowns and lingerie. He also dabbled with the new trend this season of ruffles, with great success. Adding these ruffles to lace jackets and dresses. This collection is another leap into the future for the house of Balenciaga. Nicholas is proving his has the ability to build the house into a new chapter. Bravo Monsieur Ghesquiere!

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The gentlemen design team has found their softer side, again. For this collection the design duo seemed to be focused on escape from the standard form and while splashing fun into each piece. At the opening of the show we can see repeats from last season’s “sideways tuxedo”. Plus the bolero top dress, which was the cascading ribbon dress from last season. Although there were repeats there we some really striking standouts in the collection.

The inspiration for the collection was 80’s Scassi dresses and 70’s disco chic pants and suits. The designer turned the look upside down and added the Victor & Rolf originality. From the silk jersey drape dress with pant legs or a twist in the hem. V&F also showed the expansion of their brand in this collection. From a new lingerie line and accessories line. The tier bra and panel panties are homage to the 50’s but very sexy. The designers did opt to add a splash of the gold lame trend from this season. The attempt was a backfire. The gold lame pants were a big miss! Cementing my thought that this trend must disappear.

Overall there were two pieces in the collection that stood out. The pale green cocktail summer dress was the only splash of color in a collection of neutrals and blacks. As well as the pant dress piece with a solid color panel on one side and print panel on the other. Victor & Rolf were looking to produce a wearable & sellable collection this season, and I believe they have succeeded. Bravo Monsieur Victor & Rolf

view collection here

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I never thought I would stoop so low to post anything about Lindsay Lohan. Well, to my suprise Ms. Lohan hit the streets wearing a Alexnader McQueen tartan jacket. Sad part is I just donated a jacket with a similar print. thanks to Perezhilton for posting it.......

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Earlier this week designer Martin Grant evoked the words and rythms of Miles Davis in his recent Spring/Summer collection. Mr. Grant’s found this inspiration in Miles Davis song “Kind of Blue” The collection was built around this seasons trend palette of Blues and Navys, while Grant explored adding teal and aqua shade on numerious pieces. The jackets had a relaxed fit but the 50’s inspired dresses with dress shirts in organdy and matching skirts. The two pieces in this collection that jumped right out was the pale aqua dress with a silk sating ribbon around the delicate waist. And the other escaped the blue palette, the opal white satin jacket with a wide peter pan collar. Bravo Monsieur Grant

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This season Albert Kriemler has opted for a simple and clean collection. Although it appeared the designer felt like bundling up for cold fall rather than loosening up for hot spring/summer. The Akris structure this season is undefined, loose with very simple details. In the opening section the designer kept with this season trend of a brown palette, coloring shorts, dresses and slim pants in pale khaki and pale nude.

In the second section the designer showed a wide lapel jacket with above the wrist sleeve. This jacket is a must have out of this collection. It moved on the runway with model and was cut perfectly. It was shown in a number of looks, with dot patches of green, brown and yellows and an all white, all brown and navy version.

I also fell in love with the honey brown outfit with matching leather jacket with a above the knee skirt. Half of the skirt was covered with what looked to be a knit wrap or tier; Similar to a sweater like material. Very modern but very unique! In the middle of the collection the designer shifted the earth tone pallet to start white and dark navy. Albert presented the classic Akris pant suit along with wrap dresses and a number of cocktail dresses closed the show with cascading colors on silk charmeuse, this is most certainly a done look.

The must have pieces of this collection is Akris cocktail jacket and brown the brown chiffon cocktail dress with a lead and ivy silk screen print overlaid on the fabric. Overall I must commend Monsieur Kriemler for a substantial collection – a big change for the designer.

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Karl Lagerfeld may be on the move in NYC in this New Year. But before he left Paris he made sure that the fashion world understood that Paris is home and Chanel belongs in Paris for eternity. His presentation for Spring/Summer 06’ was an emphasis of the clothes and the Chanel look. The designer opted for matte makeup, a long eyebrow and clean hair. The striking reminder of the labels name power was the abundance of the Chanel Logo and Name though out the collection.

Karl opened the collection with a little color for the Chanel client for the season. He offered clean colors like yellow, pink and this season trend color, techno color blue. Overall the bulk of the collection kept to this season’s dark shade but Karl opted for strictly black and white. What is interesting is this pallet is a signature for his namesake line.

There were two really interesting trends for Chanel this season. The designer decided to focus on a number of matching men’s pieces for the women’s collection. I know most may find matching couples to be hideous but Karl was able to pull it off. The second trend is Karl’s transformation and move to NYC. His taken the label a step forward in a positive advance.

Several sections really focused on these changes. Karl explored the draping of modern design in dresses, jackets and tops. The draping is similar to designers such as Garcons and Yamamoto. He added geometric shapes and lace fabrics to building on these complex but clean looks. The geometric prints are homage to house of Pucci and well as Ungaro.

What is really interesting about this collection is the amount of barrowing and exploration Karl did for this collection. Several sections as well as pieces have routes in current day designers like Victor&Rolf, Ghesquiere and even Arnold Scassi (I know Arnold doesn’t show anymore – but the 80’s is not that long ago. Karl does continue to find inspiration in his love child Hedi Slimane.

The last evening section offered a whole new look for the Chanel client. Cocktail dresses with a lot of body and evening gowns that are homage to Karl’s days with the House of Chloe (I miss Karl at Chloe, hell I miss Stella at Chloe). The best parts of the evening section were the black cocktail dresses with tiers of lace and beading on the bodice and skirts in baby colors (red, green and blues) and white. This is the must have piece of this collection. Although the dresses do not fit the Chanel mold it adds more options for the Chanel customer.

Other pieces to note are the crochets tops in black and white and the geometric tops in grays, blues and browns. Plus I loved the tweed weave jackets for men and women. Karl is great at adding all the little details that can catch your eye for the Chanel Jackets. Like the ribbon trim or layering in the weave. The down sides there are the baby dolls dresses in black and white with teardrop trim. Overall I must say Bravo Monsieur Lagerfeld.

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Actor Johnny Depp came out swinging late this week for his ex-girlfriend Kate Moss. He was commented in saying "It was unbelievably unfair the way she was treated. She was dragged through the mud. She's not running for office, she ain't looking to be the next Messiah. She's not out there philosophising or pretending to be goody-two shoes, she's a human being. She's no dummy, man. She's a great girl, she's a real good kid and I care about her a great deal. Like everyone, I want her to be OK. I want her and her kiddie to be OK. She's should just do what she needs to do for herself and her kid and that's it." Now that's an ex with respect.

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Frida Giannini took the house of Gucci into new era this season. She focused the collection in creating a new fresh preppy look. She opened the collection with form fitting strip polo’s with white collars. Giannini moved her focus into short summer dresses and shorts in different lengths and either taper or loose fit. The standout pieces range from the organdy dresses and gowns. To the aqua flower print gown with a low back and floral design sequin dresses. Frida presented more floral prints on satin and organdy. A number of the prints were taken from the Gucci archive. My favorite was the red peek-a-boo flower print, but I didn’t like the pineapple prints. Giannini stated that her focus this season was on her dresses and Gowns. One can easily see that her focus was on all the little details, from the cut to the stitching and beading. The only pieces in the collection that didn’t grab me was the low-rise and taper leg pants. Overall the collection is a great sell for any client, new or old. Bravo Madame Giannini

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Veronica Etro jumps at the new color trend of the season, techno color blue. Creating tribal symbols on dresses and jackets. Etro sticks to her classic use of contrasting prints on skirts, blouses and pants. But the over use of prints made the collection a little too busy. Overall she presented a number of pieces that are must haves. My picks include the yellow print gown with black embroidered butterflies on the waist. The aqua lame jacket, the painted silk dresses and gowns. Etro even minded the little details in her pieces. Like the contrast trim on pant legs, hems and pockets and the pairing of colors at the close of the show, pairing a palette of blue, black, yellow, fuscia and green. Bravo Madam Etro

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Christopher Bailey jumps back to the sixties with his recent Spring/Summer collection. Bailey seeks inspiration in Ali McGraw’s loose and relax look, mixed with sophisticated Princess Margaret. This mix is easily noticeable in the fabrics and the cut of the dresses and jackets. Like, the large cape jacket with large saucer buttons. Bailey also focused his energy on the silk taffeta dresses with layered pleats in the front, shown in brown, navy and yellow. He then shifted the collection into a couture quality look. The stand out pieces in this collection overall were the jackets. From the reconstructed Burberry trench with it’s romantic bow sleeve and the muted aqua taffeta jacket. For evening Bailey kept look short and simple elegance. There were no gowns to be found in this collection. Bravo Monsieur Bailey

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The Cavalli family escaped to the resort this season. The collection opened with gingham shorts with matching jackets. Paired with Chanel inspired bags and nautical jackets of sequins. Cavalli kept to its ability to build a collection with strong prints. From the red and blue large print gingham, the nautical multi-stripe, rust colored giraffe print to the black and red cheetah print. The white skirt suit with nay blue contrast stitch on the pockets, seams and lining is a must have. But the standout must have pieces of the collection were, the all the gingham pieces that were constructed perfectly. The down points of the collection were the 70’s gold lame hot pants with terry cloth trim and the yellow-orange fringe trim flapper dress. The show closed with two looks that brought it up on a high note. The aqua and green apple silk organdy gowns, and the red/pink/orange gown with multi-layers of ruffles on top and bottom and a thick band of black sequins around the waist. The Cavalli team has finally found their look as they move away from the Versace over glam. The new Cavalli woman is sexy and subtle with a powerful impression afterwards.

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Designer Raf Simmons is absent in this collection while the Sander design team seems to be lost this season at the Italian house of Jil Sander. The Spring/Summer show was classic Sander minimalism in the wrong direction. Although the color palette was white and crisp the downside to the collection was the bold colors his splashed over pieces. All of the bold color pieces fell outside of the Sander mold. The collection shown was relatively small with very little options. I am not sure what piece was the most frightening. The black panels on white pants or the contrasting multi-pocket shirt? Overall I think the mini-cape dress takes the cake, a real low "Super Girl" move. It seems that the Sander label is hitting rough times, Again! Hopefully the appointment of Raf Simmons as the creative director developes a revival since it’s namesake excited a second time. Or is this is a perfect example of all great things must come to an end. Soon!

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Karl Lagerfeld opened this season’s Fendi show with a lacey backdrop. The designer brought the Chanel quality to Fendi this season. The opening pieces of polka dots and laser cut lace trim dresses of leather and pique was almost flawless. This look kept with the continue trend of the season. The soft canary yellow leather dress was formed perfectly. The large buckle belts, 40’s aviator jackets were certainly a blemish on the collection. But Karl managed to bring it back with tulip inspired gowns and dresses in lavender, tan and black. The crowning pieces of the collection were the pale seafoam, black, and pink chiffon tier dresses. The volume and cut were classic and delicate, although I did not like the little pastel fur trim on the hem. Overall you can see how Lagerfeld molded this collection of a small inspiration from his work at the house of Chanel. This has continued to happen in the last 10 years his designed for Fendi. Overall its not bad because his able to shape and mold that look to cattier to the Fendi client and tradition. My gushing piece from this collection is the multi-color print used in skirts and blouses with the “F” symbol. This is my hot item for this collection. Lagerfeld kept to many trends of the season including the techno-color blue, which presented in a beautiful cocktail dress and blouses. Bravo Monsieur Lagerfeld

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Simple construction is what Vandervorst presented this week in Paris. The collection is draped onto the models and designer molds the construction with sexy modern look. AF explored this season’s trend, from the Grecian column dress to the Spanish ruffles. The standout pieces of the collection were the ruffled tier tops and dress. The V-neck dress had a tier of ruffles dripping down the side. Another piece, which caught me off guard, was the crochet dress with colors like pale blue, pink and baby green. The palette for this collection strict to this season’s palette of white, nude and black. Thank you AF for not using any Brown.

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As the show got under way the opening pieces made me think twice on whether I was in Paris or Italy. The obvious inspiration of this collection is mix between Jil Sander and Alberta Feretti. Patrick Robinson’s presentations of his vision for the house of Paco Ribanne his moving in the wrong direction. After the show the designer commented that his focusing on moving the house of Ribanne towards tomorrow. Only two pieces stood out in the collection. The white and black contrast floral print top and the khaki coat with the panels of feathers on the breast. The jacket is the only piece in the collection come close to the Ribanne philosophy. Overall the collection is a step in the wrong direction. It seems that Robinson is shifting away from 40+ years of hard work Ribanne created.

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The gents over at Dsquared2 seem to be caught in a time warp. And I am not talking about the “Annie Get Your Gun” theme of the collection. The design duo presented a collection of ranch hand clothes, which is a trend we saw last season. The collection was made up of a number of dresses, skirts and gowns made of denim and leather. The use the leather and denim was to bulky for a woman to move and unwearable in todays Spring/Summer weather. The structure of the leather jackets make them a great find for any shopper. The lavender summer dress with a petal ruffle detail on the skirt was key must have of the collection. Although the collection felt more dark than a average collection of this season, the Dsquared duo got lost in shaping their image with the ranchers lifestyle look. There was one other dress that caught the audience eye, the kahki cocktail dress with the leather hip design. Here’s to next season.

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Last week Donatella took the family business on Safari. The Versace Spring/Summer collection opened with the models fully clothed with brown and khaki dresses and pants outfits. The opening gave the audience the feel that the collection was not a Versace signature. The collection as a whole had an American look and feel to it. The gathered silk dress worn by Lily Cole with the gradient brown color had a Norma Kamali form. The most exciting pieces on the runway were the swimsuits in 80’s colors. The collection is most certainly one of the most relaxed Donatella has shown in while, this detail is common with American designers. The show closed with the signature Versace evening dress, which were muted this season with very little details or sexiness. There are many sellable pieces in this collection but the overall look was lost.

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Dolce & Gabbana shifted from their white virgin collection for D&G to hot Lolita collection for their first namesake label. Red in all shapes, colors and looks. Some of the reds looked washed out on the runway. A number of pieces were a little to decadent. Like, the large gingham print with matching platforms shoes and all the over ruffled dresses and skirts. One print stood out in the collection, red poppies with a black background. The models looked like opium den harlots in a dream sequence. The Italian duo tried to cleverly bring in the trends of the season. Brown satin ribbons accented dresses and skirts along with silk and ruffles added to pieces, which need no adornment. The scariest piece of the collection was the Monet “Lily” print skirt and dresses. With over 100 looks in the show alone, the parading of the models one after the other was nauseating. The collection as a whole was cheap knock off of the quality we expect of Dolce & Gabbana. I shutter to suggest that one of the designers had their hand on this collection while the other was on vacation. Halfway through the show we saw a shift of the bad to the “Why”. Slowly Chanel pieces came out, then Ungaro knock offs and finally Lacroix signature pieces. At the end of the show, the evening gowns were also a shift between Galliano to Gaultier. Only one gown had the Dolce & Gabbana signature look. Dominico please come back.

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During my trek through the collections in Paris last month I was delighted to meet several members of the Vogue team. Anna Wintour was very nice especially when fighting off all the Paparazzi (man they can be nasty). She was kind enough to all me to take her picture, of coarse I asked her.

Then I was happy to meet Hamish Bowels at the Elie Saab show. We had a short conversation about the show and then chatted about his stay in Paris. Unfortunately there was one person I missed all week. Madam Grace Codington, I saw her once but from a far. Next time I hope to meet her.

At the Valentino show I was lucky to also meet Mr. Andre Leon Talley, unfortunately I was introducing myself at the wrong time. Some portly photographer sitting directly behind him was complaining he was ruining his shot. Like a true gentleman he politely but firmly responded that he was being rude interrupting our conversation. He also honored me in taking his photo.

Thank you Anna, Andre & Hamish...........

On a style.com note - I also ran into Madam Candy Pratts Price.......loved her with Christian Louboutin’s and Valentino skirt, sadly she was on a mission.

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The Italian Couture council showed young promising Italian designer during fashion week in Milan - hosting the "Who is on Next". Two of the three designers presented some simple Italian quality collections - but they had no vision or sense of development. The final collection was defined the word NEXT for the show. Tommaso Aquilano and Roberta Rimondi’s collection for their 6267 collection was a sign of change. The high waistline of the skirts and pants are a trend I hope shifts more collection next season. The color palette for 6267 is a combination of navy, chocolate, snowy white and deep burgundy The designers have a Valentino quality to their look but they mix it with sexy, androgyny and class. 6267 boys explored crafting everything from the 30’s workingwomen’s suit with the blow the knee skirt and a little flare at the hem. Another striking suit is the high waist pantsuit with matching vest with squared off lapels. The common look for 6267 is the high waist. My two favorite pieces were the snowy white wool cardigan with appliqués and embroideries and the pleated organdy blouse with a Spanish ruffle collar. Bravo 6267

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Allesandro attempts to master the little black dress in his Spring/Summer collection. Marilyn Monroe is commented to be the inspiration of this collection. I get more of a feel that the collection is inspired from the vixens of Italian and French cinema. To me the collection screamed Gina Lolabrigida and Vanessa Paradis. I did fall in love with the lace pencil dress and skirt with aqua and red lining. The red Gottex skirt was to form fitting and badly dated. Dell’Acqua jumped into using this season techno color blue with a few successful pieces. The standout piece of the collection was the matching jacket & pencil skirt and the pencil dress with red beading cover the dress. Overall the collection was triumphant in exploring the little black dress, but I have to point out this collection is Spring/Summer, you do the Math?

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Tomas Maier’s collection for Bottega Veneta was a shocking delight. The designer opened the collection with some of the luscious chocolate satin dresses I have seen in a while. They appeared to be weightless on the runway. The Fendi palette is a color spectrum of fantasy. From the rainbow fan print skirt to the vibrant geometric print skirt the BV collection hits a high note. Maier explored this season’s trend of lacey summer dresses and Spanish flare skirts and blouses. The crowning piece of the collection was the chocolate pleated organza dress with lace details. Also the white gypsy skirt with black and white embroidery. Maier showed an almost flawless collection until the closing evening section. The gowns screamed Ralph Lauren rather than the classic Bottega Veneta form. Althoug the close was a miss the whole collection is a hit. Bravo Tomas

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Alberta hit Milan fashion week with a one, two punch. With an outstanding show of her Philosophy earlier this week, she presented a near perfect show of her Ferretti label. Although the collection had very little jackets and coats, the ¾ length trench with the Peter Pan collar and the dusty gold coats with deco geometric prints were simple but a key piece in this collection. A large number of the dresses and gowns had a Roman/Grecian look with little piece of Chanel echoing in the colors and prints. Piece after piece, I fell more in love with this collection. From the 20’s silk sating dress with eyelets cutouts at the hem to the sleeveless panel dress of burnt amber and crisp white satin. The most striking piece in this collection was the chocolate check dress and with matching jacket. This collection might be one of Alberta Ferretti’s best ever. Bravo Alberta

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Alberta Ferretti’s lower end label Philosophy looks for inspiration of the 1920’s. With definite hints of Coco Chanel through the collection, Ferretti molds the Italian tailor look with the divinity of French style. The silk sating dresses with the Spanish flare moved with a couture flounce. While the Chanel inspired jackets with peter pan collars and prominent pockets were key must have in this collection. The whole Philosophy collection is a sale, every piece kept to the one look but with different options in every piece. This collection is for the woman who wants to be comfortable but sexy at the same time. Ferretti’s silk satin flapper dresses had simple but classic details. But the most ravishing piece was the colorful satin print dress with appliqués. Bravo Madame Ferretti

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Monsieur Lacroix’s collection for the house of Pucci this week, kept true to the Pucci form. The cut of the dresses and swimsuits were clean and flattering. The palette this season went beyond the lour of pinks and greens. Lacroix brought the Pucci prints alive with loud and vibrant purples, aquas and chartreuse. Christian also included some new graphic designs into the Pucci Prints. One of his new print, shown with purple, blue and black, was surreal and psychedelic almost a cartoon presence. Only one look didn’t fit, the 20’s inspired gold lamé jackets and skirts. Lacroix presented a flawless collection, unfortunately his appearance at the end shows his been working like crazy to get the show complete and he still has his namesake in Paris. I hope he get a day of R&R at the spa between now and next Friday. Bravo Lacroix

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Giorgio Armani’s women’s collection on Monday keeps to the dark color trend shown in New York and London with a few splashes of color. The collection made a few wrong turns, going from hints of Chanel and transitioning into classic Armani pieces in militant shades of color. The big miss of this collection were the French sailor blouses in odd shades of red and blue and bulky navy pants. Armani also tried to explore the Spanish flare trend but with no success. The Armani collection seems to share too many similarities with classic Lagerfeld, from his Chanel jackets and skirts to his 90’s Chloe looks. The must have pieces in this collection are the offset button cardigan and the crystal bead stripe skirt with the striking petticoat in Aqua and Yellow.
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Dolce & Gabanna’s Spring/Summer collection on Monday was a journey towards a fresh new look for D&G. The Italian duo new vision leads them into escaping and reforming the D&G form. The collection was lace on lace and lace with sheer fabrics. All though they expanded on the D&G look, the collection was too white and too lacy. I loved the short denim mini skirt with the lace trim. The powerful piece of this collection was cotton toile dress and lace dress in a pale yellow. The color palette for D&G ranges from a lot of white to pale yellow, baby blue and delicate green. Overall the collection is chopped filled with too much lace and white. The classic Dolce & Gabbana cling dresses at the close of the show was overworked and the designer seemed to be lost in all the lace.

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The world of fashion lands in Milan today for the Spring/Summer collections. The shows begin today and end on October 2nd. Then off to Paris.

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Next year, everyone is going to be really depressed and drab in what New York had to offer. The New York color palette is dark, dark, dark! The major trend colors were Black, Navy & Brown. Around 10% of the collection had color but only with a contrast print or piece of a dark color. Those designers I can pick in that 10% are D.V. Furstenberg, Betsey Johnson & Anna Sui. This is one trend this season I am very disappointed in. While color was down point of this season, the upside is the contrast prints that gave a little life to some of the collection. Designers like Carolina Herrera, DVF & Heatherette.

Other trends that were seen this season were cardigans for day and evening. There was no standard length this season everyone went to short, too long or just at the knee. Bold prints are a must have this season and a lot of ruffles and flounces of fabric. The lighter the better is a standard in many collections. With all those dark colors on the runways, designers opted for light and flowing fabrics.

With every season one big whoop’s comes along and makes headlines. Two happened this season. The first headline maker was the Diane Von Furstenberg show last week. The collection alone was a hit; every piece had something to rave about. The collection still stood on it’s feet after lighting rigs fell from the sky and knocked out a couple of buyers and editors. The second flop was Gwen Steffani’s NY show for her label L.A.M.B, I love Gwen Steffani, she’s an icon in the making, but this collection was so lost I am not sure she knew where to cut and add. As I recommended, I think Gwen had to many people putting their two-sense worth into adding or trimming the collection. Hopefully next season we will see the flip side of Gwen. Something we never seen before?

This season did have a few breathtaking shows. DVF was not alone in showing what could be the best collection of her career. Two other designers showed what could view of what’s to come in the future. Zac Posen for the past 4 years has continued improve here and there. The Zac Posen show last week was at a completely different level from his past work. Dare I say, I can see the vision of Balenciaga, Saint Laurent & McQueen in this young visionary. Posen showed a collection that has created a Posen style. I predict not one piece won’t be picked up or sold.

The second collection was designer Natalie Chanin’s label Project Alabama. This collection was a real find this season. The collection gave NYC fashion week hope for life. Although Chanin conformed to the NY trend of using Navy and Black, she used very little. It was her use of bold reds and yellow that knocked my socks off. The key to her collection is she tied pieces together with all the little details. From the embroidery to the beading, every look seemed to flow together.

Menswear in New York this season was another miss. Designers seemed to be grabbing looks here and there, hoping for a standout collection. Michael Kors tried hard to adhere to the southwest trend this season but the collection had to many pieces that killed the look. Like a Indian poncho that had a Greek design weaved into it or the camouflage pants, shirts, jackets, shorts and bags. While designer Kenneth Cole showed a fall collection for spring/summer. Dark, Dark, Dark – the only color seemed to be on the one item I loved in the show, the double thin belts.

There was one men’s collection that reigns supreme in New York. Twenty-six year old Tomer Gendler’s show last week was divinity. The pants had a new cut, flat fronts and little details that caught your eye. Even the collarless shirts, bowlers and dickey pants added more vision to the Tomer look.

Overall NY fashion week did have its shinning stars, but as whole a very disappointing. I look forward to seeing Milan and Paris in the coming weeks. I will be in Paris in person attending shows that I have received invites too.

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Yesterday, Independent designer Roksanda Ilincic showed her latest collection, which was small with only 13 looks. Overall there were several must have pieces in the collection. A floral theme runs through this collection, from prints to the fabric flowers that embellish the gowns and dresses. There were two pieces that stood out on their own. The pale pink dress and matching waist jacket, the little pockets on the front of the dress add to its 50’s look. The second was the midnight navy gown with its ¾ length shoulders and flat blow neckline. This dress is a perfect red carpet dress or hostess dress. The one look that didn’t take was the loose cocktail dresses with their plunging necklines. They were to relax and the gathering of the fabric was creating some unflattering shapes. But a large part of the collection is very sellable. Bravo Roksanda

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The women’s collection opened was a vibrant floral print parade. The color palette included muted teals, pale pinks, navy and red. The standout print was the Wedgwood print in navy, pale blue, brown and red with a contrasting white. There were only few evening gowns in the collection and plenty of day dresses. The must have of the women’s collection is the pink mini trench and the full-length trench with the teal and red hand dye print along the sleeve and back.

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There is a copycat in our mitst. The Fashion East initiative showed in London yesterday with three new designers. The crowd favorite was Marlos Schwab, whose collection emphasized the little black dress. To be honest the show looked a little more like the history of the little black dress. A large number of his creations mirror designer like Norma Kamali, Aliah, & Versace. The nock off’s didn’t end there; the last designer to show was Gareth Pugh, a recent Saint Martins graduate. You can see from the two photos I’ve provided, Gareth knocked off Alexander McQueen for his first collection. Not only is it a bad vision of McQueen but completely unwearable. At least, when designers like Thierry Mugler did outrageous pieces like that, they could be worn comfortably. Unfortunately Fashion East had to hopefuls this year.

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The boys at Basso & Brooke went wild with color and prints this season. The keyword from the designers was “housewife” for their collection titled Vanity Affair. To be honest, it looks like the boys locked themselves in for a weekend and watched several Bette Midler 80’s movies. The collection kicked off with Tulle, Tulle, and more flounces of Tulle. The opening dresses with Tulle under-skirts and some of the most loud and killer graphics I’ve seen in a while. The dresses screamed 50’s sock hop, but it was the 80’s stretch pants in shocking and daring art screenings that took the collection in a new direction. The Spanish flare was present in this collection, but in bold prints. But the must have piece was the silver screen cocktail dress. The model looked like she was in the movie it self and walked right out of the screen. I can’t explain it, not sure if it was the cut or the print itself that created the effect. Bravo Bruno & Christopher

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And the band came marching in, while the model started walking with their heads down in shame. The Marc Jacobs collection for Spring/Summer is more a depressing rendition of Fall/Winter. The collection opened with a section of navy, black and white pieces. Beyond the feel of the collection the overall form was over sized and over draped. Everything from the dresses, skirts and jackets.

Then the collection went from depressing to alive as Jacobs color palette shifted from navy to brown. Then the forms begin to change from bulky bags to classic Jacob shapes. I was getting a little worried I might have to report Jacobs’ collection a no sell, which I know is not possible. So many pieces began to come down the runway. The embroidered skirts and coats are most certainly a must have. The pleated layers of lace and pale organdy on the full length Chanel gown, was a great execution. And the navy blue cocktail dress that just floated down the runway. It was beaded with crystals, which made it a vision of the night sky and it’s stars. My favorite piece of the collection is the beaded blue cocktail dress where the dark blue just faded in beads up to the models face. Flawless! Bravo Mr. Jacobs and thank you for scarying me a little.

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Gwen Steffani's venture into clothing with her new label L.A.M.B. might make you scratch you head after seeing this first collection. Steffani got all the big names of 90's to grace her runway but it did nothing for the clothes. The most obvious thing about this collection is the lack of uniformity or signature look. The collection jumps from ghetto chic to rasta pride to 30's working girl and then on to deconstructed pieces with a 90's feel. Even the evening section of show was a whole new look.

The collection did have a few pieces that are a must have. Like the 30's star cardigan or the Bill Blass off the shoulder evening gown. Overall the show looked like everyone was confused backstage. Numerous pieces were out of place when coming out on the runway, like Jessica Stam's leather outfit coming out in the middle of the evening section. Scratch Scratch! ! ! Sorry but corn-rolls on Lisa Cant was not a good idea. In short the collection was a good attempt but I think there were too many hands in bucket when it came to putting the collection together. Gwen, next time your voice is one, let the others guide you.

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The Heatherette collection opened on Friday with model Lisa Cant in a bubblegum jacket and a candy striper skirt. The design team duo began the show by taking on the ladies who lunch. Decadent afternoon dresses in striking colors like shimmer sea foam and baby yellow. Then they jumped in to the crazy Heatherette style, skimpy, sexy and brash.

This collection is probably the most wearable collection they have ever done. The finishing details on the waist length blazer were perfect. Even the ghetto 80’s bikini divas and sequined Speedos on the boys were a knock out. For evening the empress cut gowns floated down the runway. But the key piece was the full-length kimonos coats with appliqués. My two must haves from this collection are the Heatherette logo polo with the dovima appliqué face on the back and all of the little cardigans in pink with embroidering. As usual Amanda Lepore’s Medori & Champagne saunter was a perfect show closing. Personally I could have down without Kelly O. Bravo RR & TR

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The Zac Posen show last week was one of his best, if not the one. Every pieces was a must have and seem to shower class, modernity and perfection. I cannot rave enough about this collection. Posen nailed every trend or look this season in this one collection, perfectly. From the red Spanish Enfanta dress with the ruffled hem that just melts into the dress. To the prairie dresses which he masters the perfect colors in decadent patterns.

After dozens of shows in NYC, Posen is the only designer to show a crochet/knit pieces that are not only timeless but perfect. The details on every piece are flawless, the leather lacing on the jackets and bags to the eyelets and cutouts on the hem of leather skirts. My favorite piece list is just too long, key items I can say for certain. The dark cream leather skirt with it’s bolster sides and revealing cutouts. The button & ribbon Maze jackets and skirts, also the prairie summer dress with its dramatic pattern.

If this collection is not perceived as pure vision on the clothes alone, the accessories most certainly propel it in that category. The shoes are revamps classics but the purses and bags are going to fly out the doors of every clothing store around the world. What is really eerie about this collection is I could swear I felt like I was in Paris. Zac Posen is most certainly building a reputation that could surface his fellow NY designers. Bravo, Bravo Mr. Posen

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Carman Marc Valvo’s collection last week had lady luck on it’s side. Rose print skirts with polka dot lace tops and dresses and jackets reminiscent of 50’s Balenciaga. The color palette was filled with silver, pink, black and yellow. But the cut of the multi-color cocktail dresses in silk satin is all wrong. The front waist gathering rides up, but I did like the matching panel bodice. There were very little pants or shorts in this collection, and the only pant shown was a disco hot pant, bad idea. The show stopper piece of this collection is the white silk gown with the black sequin and polka dot lave bodice. Bravo Carman

Quick note – has anyone ever noticed that style.com has never review the Valvo show?

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The Abaete collection redefined the poncho in their Spring/Summer collection. Capris pants with ruffles, ruffles and more ruffles. Poncho’s with pencil skirts. There was not common trend or look in this collection. The one-standout piece in this collection was the 30’s style swimsuit in several eye-pleasing prints. Hopefully next season will bring new light to Abaete.

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thank you style & ofw

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Estaban Cortazar’s Spring/Summer show last week is yet another viewing of how lost he’s been the last couple of seasons. The lengths are cohesive throughout the collection but the cut and styles have no common thread. The color palette escaped the dark drab trend of the week, but it came out as a icy collection. The goddess dresses and tops mixed with silk jersey tanks is where I got lost.

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Anna Sui’s garden party show last week turned into a visit to the prairies of the Midwest. Sui did keep with her classic bohemian style but produced a delicious palette of green, roses, blues & the classic Sui purple. The collection had numerous must have pieces. The prairie eyelet dressed in green/white & purple/black. The lace tops with beading were a striking contrast to their simple satin skirts.

The collection shifted at the end from the prairies chic to deco appliqué pieces. There were very little pants in this collection, except for the ¾ length in silk satin. The key piece of the collection was the prairie stitch panel dress. The collection offered so many great finds, from the classic Sui prints to the lace tops and 30’s Gatsby summer dresses that floated down the runway. Bravo Anna

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If you are 20,30,40 something and you love Oscar De Le Renta but you think you’re too young to wear his collection. Then Temperley will fit you perfect. The ladies at Temperley showed a sophisticated and romantic collection this week. The length is always below the knee and the neckline is always plunging. The color palette was filled with black, Wedgwood blue, white and many shades of pink. Remember to think Pink. The skirts and dressed were embellished with simple embroideries and beading.

The evening section of the collection was long lace dresses that moved with the models. The 20's architecture deco beaded gowns were gorgeous, most certainly my favorite pick of the collection. The only piece i was a little disappointed was the indian/70's print dresses, which we saw last season. I also want to note, I have seen several designers this week attempt to pull off the knot dress without any success.

Bravo Alice

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The Betsey Johnson show this week was blushing delight for fashion week. The show opened with Parisian café boys handing out roses as young Lulu’s stroll down the sidewalk. Johnson stuck to her short short signature dresses and skirts and explored the regions of maxi cut skirts and shorts. Many short baby doll dresses with ruffles, lace and romantic shoulders, were a must have in this collection. I did fall in love with the white eyelet mini dress.

The Betsey Johnson palette is homage to French label Cachrel, baby blues, yellows, pinks, red & lavender. Although, innocent Lulu dresses cut high for a naughty Babette look took away that youth look. Towards the end, the show went from blushing Bardot pieces to sophistic pieces in rich fabrics of silk organdy, organza and a lush color palette of browns, taupe’s and muted yellow/gold’s. The crowning glory of the show was Betsey’s Voila Strip Tease and her embarrassing moment of trying to get her pompom’s removed from her behind. Like a great personality she enjoyed her moment and showed no humility, that’s courage! Bravo Betsey, the collection was a Parisian Delight.

(just a quick note – style.com opted to not review Betsey’s show – “Guess it was to racy”)

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Every time I see a Diane Von Furstenberg collection I always seems to walk around with a smile on my face. I can’t help it. Every show she seems to give women something to open their closet and just sigh with relief that they have at least one piece or dress that shows they have life.

Madame Von Furstenberg ‘s Spring/Summer show this week was full of color, dimensions & illustration. The palette of colors was off the charts (red, yellow, green, sea foam, brown & blue), Diane seemed to have escaped the trend of Dark & Drab. The show was filled with the classic DVF wrap dresses in shocking prints and vibrant colors. One staple in this collection is body, the skirts and dresses seemed to float down the catwalk but also hold its form.

The show came to an abrupt end when lighting fell on top of some press and editors. One big name was hurt but everyone brushed it off and moved on. It is amazing how such a mishap can under shadow such a great collection. Bravo DVF, the show is striking and so many pieces will be wearable for decades.

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Okay if I was sitting the in the audience when this show started and saw the first 5 looks walk down the runway. I would be walking across the runway for the exit. The music alone is good enough to give it a bad review. I have migraine now form it!

The collection was all short spring dresses with to much layering, multiple prints, bows and lace. The hats had no uniformity and models looked like they were in a lot of pain walking down the runway. One can guess its from the blaring music. Overall this collection is for the buyer who already de-constructs her thrift shop finds at the fraction of the cost these pieces will sell. One thing I can praise Alexandre for is the color palette he used, although the spring colors we’ve seen this week would not work with his designs. I've read other reviews of this collection and I most certainly am in disagreement with the wearability of this collection. I say NAY! Mr. Herchocovitch, make yourself watch and listen to your own show. PLEASE!

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Natalie "Alabama" Chanin’s first NY show is a summer evening picnic of success on a long hot night. One cannot rave enough on the fresh and strong vision of this collection. Project Alabama showed at UPS Hub in New York, UPS sponsored the show.

Alabama brings the Dixie girl out of the planes and onto the runway of New York. Knee length skirts that lay like flower canopies pay homage to the line’s from Dior’s new look. Pairing these skirts with long and waist length coats, and the beading and embroidery of stars and flowers gives the pieces a couture quality. The palette for Alabama is several grades of navy and blue’s along with bold but muted reds and yellows. Some critics thought the country tones were not for New York. I disagree completely they’re a striking contrast that give the collection its freshness.

This collection has blown a fresh breeze of country simplicity in to NY fashion week. We have not seen such a powerful first show in 4 years. The key pieces for this collection will be the muted deep red jackets and skirts with 60’s flower embellishments. The Alabama team has been working together now for 5 years but this year is beginning of a great Chapter. The Alabama look is most certainly a break of the mold we’ve seen during fashion week. They have kept to the drab color palette of Blacks, Blue & Browns. Bravo Project Alabama

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Kenneth Cole kicked off fashion week in NYC last weekend. His women’s collection was in short, A Big Bore. Nothing new and noting stood out. The collection consisted mostly a monotone palette. Although some splashes of color closed the show, it seems that Mr. Cole forgot this was his Spring/Summer collection. The collection is a loss, bulky pants that were to bulky and double pleated shorts and carpi's. I was excited to see Mr. Cole show a wrap dress but up close the waist had to many pleats, making the model look pregnant. Overall, there were no new looks in this collection and I am sure you can find his looks at H&M for a fraction of the price. Bravo Mr. Cole!

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thank you style.com & ofw

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Jack & Lazaro are finally getting into the swing of trends for NY designers. This season the gents followed the below knee lengths and the hint of early 60’s design. The stand out pieces in their collection this Spring/Summer are the jackets. Yes, Jackets! Both waist and half lengths. The shape and cut are clean and similar to Cardin, once again Pierre’s designs inspire the future. The jackets add elegance to P. Schouler along with the romantic necklines and shoulders on tops of crepe & organza. The details of the embroideries and textures bring a simple elegance to this collection; the pieces are most certainly timeless and yet define the P. Schouler style. My stand out pick for this collection is the full jackets. They are cut and embroidered with a couturier skill. Bravo

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Carolina Herrera showed this Monday, a collection that proves that every season she continues to out shine as New York's Couturier Grande Dame..........

Herrera over the past 10 years has evolved her label with the new clientele emerging in New York and around the world. This season she has presented a collection that redefines the length of the Spring/Summer looks. Length and Constructive are key elements from gowns to skirts and even the Jacket. At first glance we can see how the lines in this collection bring you back to Cardin & St. Laurent in the early sixties. The dresses are modern renditions with ravishing colors like purple, magenta,, brown and electric blue. Herrera does add her signature pieces like her Crisscross Neck gown and Empress gowns and tops. To these pieces she add bold but simple prints in her ravishing rich colors in chiffon to silk gazar. The stand out piece in this collection is the magenta gown above with it chocolate print and organza bow. Bravo Madame Herrera

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