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Of coarse color at Rykiel, this season the key is leopard fur and bold plaids and prints on knits. Rykiel does embrace this season fur trend, both faux and real but her shinning trend moment are the knit pieces through out the collection. From matching knit jackets and sweaters to full length knit trench coat. Another strong statement at Rykiel is a new suit for the Rykiel customer, a loose cut but still classic silhouette. The suits take inspiration from great english tailors. The suits are mostly done in a silk/wool blend fabric but the highlight are the plaid wool blazers done in several tones. The only miss in the knits are the pants. On of the hit trends seen in Paris and Milan are layered knit pieces, which Rykiel showed in several looks. One of my favorite pieces in the collection is the green wool overcoat done in a heathered green wool fabric. The cheetah print stripe sweaters are both the perfect editorial and retail pieces while the cheetah fur driving jacket is more editorial. Another great retail piece is Rykiel’s high collar trench coats done in black synthetic or purple wool.

View complete collection at Wireimage.com

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Doma embraces this season key trends of oversized coats and biker jackets right at the start of the collection. The color palette is simple, black, black and black. I did giggle a little at the Chanel quilted leather jackets but the pants were just a little too much. Doma did show a few windsor check pieces but he also used a lot of velvet. While there has been advanced in fabrication of lighter weight velvets, the overall look of velvet is too heavy. Doma only showed a handful of knit pieces this season instead opted for kitschy prints like polka dots. A highlight of the collection was the knit sweaters worn over a high collar trench coat. Doma also gave us a lot of full leg and baggy pants for Fall/Winter. While the silhouette states otherwise there was a hint of Dior Homme in the collection along with Lagerfeld’s Chanel biker from the 90’s. Overall the collection is a dark collection with hints of color mainly in check wool pieces. The message is a blurred through out the collection, hopefully Doma can start to shift the focus to a more designed collection next season.

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Posted by turlie at 05:23 AM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

John Richmond’s biker chic is more from the 70's than 60's or 80's. He focuses on a layered look this year, like layering blazers over leather bikers jackets. Richmond is riding on the whole Biker rise of Belstaff last season. Showing a lot of tight leather pants and even tight suit pants. One of the highlights of the collection is Richmond's homage to the beaded trend of the season detailing dinner jackets with beading on the lapels and pockets. The big misses of the collections was the overuse of the scarves and the white section which was too hip hop for Richmond. The strongest section was black section. Another strong trend from the collection is Richmond's geometric knits used through out the collection.

View complete collection at Wireimage.com

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Jean-Paul Gaultier’s collection Fall/Winter 08’ is Dark, really dark, with very little hint of color, when there is colors its done in bold stripes and plaids. Another inspiration from the collection is homage to the english countryside but a darker and more macab. While Gaultier’s number of leather pieces in the collection is very minimal his use of leather detailing is successfully rampant. The collection as a whole embraced black and dark shades of blue, burgundy and brown but he kept the color strict and confined in striped and plaid fabrics. One of the big misses from the collection was the pinstripe gangster style suits. But when it came to trends Gaultier really keeps to his guns and really only embraced the fur trend. The must have pieces from the collection are the short-sleeve dress shirts or the leather trimmed an detailed pants.

View complete collection at Wireimage.com

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For his first collection at the House of Ferre, Lars Nilsson presents something new and something old. Opting for a small show space to the big runway to make his homage to the late designer, impressions of the end result were mixed. Nilsson is seasoned player in the game of stepping in for needy fashion house. This season Nilsson plays with a lot of classic Ferre looks and pairs them with some modern day necessities. Like the classic Windsor check blazer paired with a pair of tight leather bike pants. Nilsson mixed looks with full leg and skinny leg pants. One of the big misses is some of the tailoring in the collection. The master was a legend in tailoring and modern tailoring was his signature. This season Nilsson lacked any modern tailoring through out the collection. One example is the double breasted jackets with lapel cut too short pulling the fabric when buttoned. This occurred both on the model and the mannequin. The collection overall did not cry Gianfranco Ferre, too many classic suits that Ferre would never have designed.

Update: I wrote this post about two weeks ago and the news on Friday, February 8th is that designer Lars Nilsson is stepping down from Ferre. I was rather kind in this review of the collection as I hate to be all negative. To be honest, I am not a big Nilsson fan, the man has connections but he’s really staff or team designer not an actual designer per-say. He butchered Bill Blass, Rochas and now Ferre. When is everyone going to get a clue. Sorry Lars!

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Suicide for Fur? But you have fur in the collection! Galliano embraced Jean-Paul Gaultier this season, touching on his Hasidic collection from the 90’s to modern day Gaultier with an emphasis of molding his own tailoring with Gaultier’s clear defined lines. Two words, FLUFFY MUFFY, enough said! Another theme in the collection is the destruction of the male figure throughout the collection and the centuries, by saying its a bloody war out there! The dark romantic tone of the collection is echoes throughout edwardian and venetian theme pieces with heavy beading and draping. Galliano’s splashes of beading on pants and jackets is in keeping with the glittery trend o the season. Another strong statement this season is the layering trend of the season from chunky knits to heavy jackets and coats. The only big misses this season are the period boots and the bloody models.

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Sneaker at Armani, who would have thought, I think Monsieur Armani has been spending to much time on his yacht. This season he seems to be moving away from the gentleman and embracing the hip-hop clientele. He even bows down to the big trends of the season, from the riding pants throughout the collection to the oversized jackets and coats. He does however keep his classic tailoring but experimenting with leather creating several strong leather trenches and coats. Another show stopper was the geometric knits that was straight out of the 80’s. Armani even went overboard with the whole oversized trend by adding oversized hats throughout the collection. The big miss, I just wish Monsieur Armani would just leave the velvet on the bolt for one season!

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Posted by turlie at 09:00 AM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

She's crazy, she's kooky and she says she's got one ear down on the pavement listening to the youth of the world. To be honest, walk around on Paris today and you will see what will be on the runway of designers like Jacobs, Galliano and Ghesquière. To be honest, this season Westwood seemed to be borrowing from other legends like Gaultier and Armani. From the fine line suits to the boys in skirts and denim. Highlights from the collection is the abundance of classic Westwood plaids but only handful of her classic knits. There is a lot of stripe fabric through out the collection mainly used in the suit looks. There was a hint of the 40's and the military but the big miss of the collection were the saggy pants used in several looks. You never know what your going to get with Vivienne Westwood each season but the proof she's a legend is the fact she has been on the runways now for almost 40 years.

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Posted by turlie at 05:42 AM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

For his first collection Massimillano Giornetti makes a big statement, he''s a follower not a leader. This season Giornetti hits all of the big trends of the season like riding pants, knits and shimmery fabrics. I will praise his use of beading and his ability to style a look. But the same suit in 20 different fabrics can get a little boring. Giornetti has the classic Ferragamo tailoring down but the accents and details of the suits is where he did shine. Sadly for Ferragamo customers the leather pieces were lacking. Maier was missed this season but there is some hope that Giornetti could continue to bring some strong freshness to the collection but he needs to be careful he does not loose those faithful customers who have been shopping at Ferragamo for over 60 years. Like my Grammie!

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The emphasis this season is combining nylon and leather in everything from jackets, pants and coats. For their second season the design team at Belstaff continue on with another strong collection. Trends that were embraced include the oversized jackets and pants and aviator bomber style biker jackets. One of my favorite pieces are the two-tone leather jackets mixed with wool fabrics. There were several hints of Raf Simons for Jil Sander in the collection but overall the motorcycle chi meets street chic style of the collection is what revs loud. Belstaff is getting better and better each season. I especially happy to see the design team embracing synthetic fabrics incorporated in the pants this season.

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Silvia Fendi has finally taken a page out of the Lagerfeld textbook and brought a new light into Fendi’s menswear line. Silvia is finally taken herself out of the typical Fendi box and hammered the sides into different angles. She took on trends like fur collars, a lot of knit pieces and even combining knit and fur in one. Another trend she took on was the layering of knits, from a V-neck sweater under a matching knit poncho to knit turtleneck under a cardigan. There were two misses in the collection, first the ruffled tuxedo shirt and second the tapered leg pant. The strongest look and statement out of this collection is the new shapes and lines Fendi is giving its client. Oversized jackets and coats take shape but with clean, straight lines creating a modern shape for Fendi. Overall the collection is the most radical collection Fendi has shown in a while. Delivering strong editorial pieces and more importantly strong pieces for the closet. Thank you Madame Fendi!

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Donatella's color palette for Fall/Winter takes on a new shade. Versace takes her classic magenta, navy blue and burns them giving us burnt magenta and indigo, her new black. Donatella keeps with a lot of the classic versace tailoring and pairing her tailored jackets with leather and tapered leg pants. The look this season could easily be called fabulous mafia, clean and box suits in strong colors. Versace duo hit on one of the new trends "shimmery fabrics and beading" showing several suits in shimmery eel skin fabrics and beaded dress shirts worn with basic black and her burnt indigo suits. One of the highlights of the collection is the combination of matte black silk suit and a beaded black dress shirt. Thank you Donatella for bringing beading back!

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Posted by turlie at 06:24 AM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

I love Frida Giannini, the woman is an italian goddess. I was never big fan of Ford at Gucci but since his exit and Giannini's entrance I have been gushing about Gucci season after season. This season she continues to barrow from the archives but focuses on molding archived prints or pieces into one strong statement for the season. This season Giannini brings out the Gucci Barbarian in all of us, from Gangis Khan to the medieval ages. There is a lot of the leather and fur this season, from bear, beaver to classic shearling. For the models look, the disheveled and smokey eyes one person came to mind, Hiram Keller in Fellini's Satirycon. Now that's sex! Gianini's must have pieces from the collection are the layered belts, leather belt combined with silk sashes. Another strong theme through the collection are the French military outerwear, heavily detailed with embroidery and beading. Bravo Madame Giannini!

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Posted by turlie at 05:01 AM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

Dean and Dan Caten continue with theatrics with a "Outsiders" collection with a hint of Trainspotting. Clockwork Orange, I don't think so! Let's just get it over with shall we, the whole low crotch jeans trend needs to die. Sadly Caten brothers embraced this pitiful trend to the core this season. The duo hit all of the top trends of the season like an abundance of faux and real fur and my personal favorite the combination of natural and tech fabrics. One of the key pieces of the collection is the black crepe pants with nylon knee pads. One thing is for certain, Dean & Dan can make fur sexy and playful but the heavy leather pants worn with a heavy wool coat is an overworked look. One of my favorite looks in the collection is the black blazer with the lapel and sleeve opening trimmed in beading and paired with a white dress shirt with a red plaid cuff. Missing this season is some leasure wear, everything is hard edges or very stylized and dressed up.

Posted by turlie at 05:21 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

Angela Missoni delivers a collection for all seasons, riding on the oversized trend hitting Milan she slowly takes Missoni away from the classics. But still touching on classic Milanese styling. Giving us the classic ell skin silk pants contrasted with her heavy weight fabric tops and jackets.There is hint 80's tailoring with an emphasis on lines. Missoni showed oversized coats, suits and even casual leather coats. The only miss of the collection is Missoni's tapered leg pants. She also seems to be steering clear of the classic Missoni weave in favor of the new geometric design sweaters and tops.

View complete collection at Wireimage

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