Menswear Archives


May 06, 2007

N.Y. Men’s F/W 07 – G-STAR

For the design team at G-Star, the G-Star man is very strict with an edgy side to him. This aesthetic is combined with a long series of dark looks that move from biker modern to denim crazy. Each look gave us everything from strong outerwear pieces to great knit pieces. The opening section moved between two groupings, from all black looks to all denim. One of the top pieces in this section is a tailored black leather bomber jacket. A lot of the pants in the opening of the collection are tapered but design team did keep to a skinny leg pant for most of the collection. Another great outerwear piece in the opening section is a tailored navy blue jacket. The body of the jacket has a trench coat silhouette while the details are more military inspired.

The only non-black or gray pieces in the collection were in the middle of the collection. Those pieces actually made it to my top pick list. For the second section of the collection, they choose to do several denim looks. The stiffness of the fabric added great lines on the pieces. The looks were to out there to fit into the street chic look that G-Star was creating. Another crazy mix was the Edwardian style jackets and coats in the close of the collection. The must have pieces from the collection are the only two white pieces in the collection. First is the white linen vest that is double-faced with denim. The must have piece is the oversized bleached white denim overcoat with a wide lapel and collar. It was a little discerning that many New York designers lean towards the dark darker palettes for Fall/Winter. They tend to forget there is another side of the equator. What G-Star lacks is light in the collection, whether it is white period or some sort of color.

View complete collection at Wireimage

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May 03, 2007

N.Y. Men’s F/W 07 – KIM JONES

Kim Jones opened his Fall/Winter collection in the new color trend this season, a lot of black, gray and white. For the second he used more blue, my favorite is his aqua blue pieces but then showed last season techno blue. One of the strongest pieces in the opening section is the color blocked jersey jacket. The jacket is done in a indigo blue and white jersey thick knit fabric. For the second section Jones adds more outerwear pieces. I was not a fan of the Barney Fief hats or the faux fur ball caps. On a positive note Jones did keep the pant leg this season tailored straight. Another great outerwear pieces in the second section is one of the most silly pieces in the collection. A black wool jumpsuit but Jones played with the classic jumpsuit and keeps the pant leg and sleeve short. The collar and opening as well as the sleeve and short cuff are lined in black faux fur. Yes it’s a silly piece but its playful and more importantly it unique and could be a great editorial piece.

The closing section is a move back to a dark color palette of black and navy blue. The strongest pieces from the collection are the outerwear pieces. One of the strongest pieces from the closing section is a black wool jacket. The sleeve and body of jacket is tailored with volume and the opening of the jacket is offset. A modern piece but Jones makes a statement by keeping the number of buttons limited and its mix between modern and volume make a statement. The must have piece from the collection is one of the unique pieces in the color. An all white look which Jones shows a white wool overcoat cropped bellow the waist. A modern piece but certainly a strong statement that dark sophistication and colorful sportswear do have a gray area. A lot of the pieces are oversized but Jones focused on color blocking them and heavy textured fabrics to tone down the volume. Some of the looks in the collection were just a little too bulky. Overall Jones gave us several strong pieces, not to mention great pants for Fall/Winter. Bravo Monsieur Jones!

View complete collection at Wireimage

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May 02, 2007

N.Y. Men’s F/W 07 – MORPHINE GENERATION

A modern twist on the New York nightlife with an emphasis on darkness and a sleek silhouette. Designer Erik Hart’s Fall/Winter collection really looks away from the colorfulness of life and towards seriousness. He takes on this season’s big trend of heavy outerwear. He keeps the sleeves of the coats and jackets very tailored to the arm. Hart also choose to show a lot of hats and gloves in the collection. He unfortunately keeps the pants tapered to the leg. One of the standout pieces in the opening section is a below the waist military coat done in a black brushed wool fabric. Another favorite look is the black thinly knit tank worn over a collarless short sleeve shirt. There were we no strong suit looks in the collection. Instead Hart focused on his outerwear and knit pieces.

The must have pieces from the collection are two dark pieces. First is the dark charcoal gray brushed-wool bomber jacket with the ribbed elastic done in black. The other must have piece is the dark charcoal cashmere/wool knit cardigan. The cardigan has a wide collar that drapes on the pieces and the front is done with a double-breasted style. The mens collection is certainly stronger compared to the womens. Almost every look had a strong piece incorporated into it. The focus is on a cleaner well-tailored look. There was no obvious definition from section to section, although the designer pointed out key images. The whole mens line really just melted into one modern Euro meets New York. Bravo Monsieur Hart!

View complete collection at Wireimage

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April 20, 2007

N.Y. Men’s F/W 07 – ADAM KIMMEL

This season Adam Kimmel opted for a studio photo shoot over a runway show. Why? He wanted to give the collection a personality by having his artist and writer friends replace the models. The result is a heavy and rich collection of playful and wearable looks. The collection is a toy between the 40’s worker and 50’s dapper gentleman who lives on a starving artist budget. The fabrics give the looks a modern look and feel. The first section of looks is a little more dressed up. The suits are not overly tailored simple in the design. One of the standout looks in this section is a black wool double-breasted suit. Not to mention the indigo blue wool jump suit or astronaut suit shown with the black suit. Silly I know but adorable.

The must have piece from the collection are the outerwear pieces. If you end finding them, jump at it. First is the black-brushed wool long overcoat worn over a brown version of the same overcoat. The other must have piece is the creamy white leather jacket worn with a straight tailored leg wool pant. The collection as a whole is really beautiful, even the few womens pieces he showed. Overall Kimmel kept to a well-tailored and well style look. The looks are not overworked or over-thought. The bottom line is the creative mind of Adam Kimmel is priceless. Bravo Monsieur Kimmel!

View complete collection at Adam Kimmel.com

[images via Adam Kimmel.com]

April 19, 2007

N.Y. Men’s F/W 07 – TIM HAMILTON

At the studio showing for Tim Hamilton’s Fall/Winter collection several editors were disappointed in the small selection of looks. Interesting enough I was delighted we didn’t see repetitive pieces in different colors. One of the interesting details that Hamilton added pins on the jackets and shirts. The only misses I found in the collection were the puff parkas and the techno blue pieces. Hamilton used several prints and plaids. The key pieces in the collection are the outerwear pieces and the knit pieces. Some of the best knit-looks were layered. Like the olive green knit vest worn under a brown wool blazer. Another great look was blue ribbed knit cardigan worn over a white dress shirt. Minus the rolled up denim pant!

Boots are on the rise, a lot of the models looks were shown with a boot. The only downside is that Hamilton styled a few looks with the boot tucked into the boot, another bad trend from Paris. The amount of layering in the collection is very subtle, you don’t realize it until you step back. My favorite accessory was the silk ascots and neck-scarves. The must have look from the collection is layered look. A military green treated canvas jacket worn over a gray wool vest. To top the look off Hamilton choose a dark olive-green canvas pant, the fabric has been treated to give it a matted texture. I would like to have more leather pieces from Hamilton this season, especially in some of the rich greens and browns tones. Overall Hamilton presented some great wardrobe pieces for the All American Gentleman.

View complete collection at Wireimage

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April 18, 2007

N.Y. Men’s F/W 07 – PERRY ELLIS

For the opening section at Perry Ellis, designer Joe Crocco bundled up but opted to shy away from a bulky silhouette. The color palette is natural tones white and brown. He also focused on a less tailored mens look but not too relaxed. One of the great combinations was his pairing of knit pieces with heavy fabric pieces. One of the standout looks in the opening section is a brown heavy cotton jacket that is loosely tailored and is almost reminiscent of a safari jacket. A maroon cashmere turtleneck and a pair of white wool pants with a baggy leg complete the looks. In the second section the pieces are more tailored but Crocco continues to keep the looks more relaxed. The pants are a key to keeping the look relaxed. Crocco chose to keep the pants tailored straight or looser to the leg but not to baggy. One of the standout looks in this section is an off-white straight leg pant worn with a white wool long overcoat and brown ribbed knit sweater.

Some of the key pieces in the collection are the knits. From the chunky cashmere cable knit sweater that opened the show to the heavy goat wool cardigan. One of the standout knit pieces is a white cashmere turtleneck sweater with tan horizontal stripes on the body and sleeves. The look is completed with loosely tailored tweed pant. There is a lot of classic American sportswear looks in the collection, from the leather elbow pads on a safari jacket to the plaid overcoats and matching pants. There were a few leather pieces in the collection but Crocco certainly have done more. One of the standout leather pieces is caramel brown leather jacket. The leather has been brushed to a sheen and treated, the shiny texture of the leather paired with a tweed paint is a great combination.

For Fall/Winter Crocco choose to show no evening section and no suit section. The emphasis this season is on a complete collection of every day pieces. The must have looks are two looks that were shown with a tailored straight brown wool slack. The first look is a brown wool slack worn with a 50’s style sports jacket done in canvas style wool fabrics with striped elastic waistband and sleeve cuffs. The other must have looks is a cuffed brown brushed wool pant worn with a heavy brown tweed jacket and a collared cashmere sweater. This season Joe Crocco has gone back to classic Perry Ellis sportswear looks and gives us a wearable and sellable collection. The end result is a genius collection that does not fall victim to the trends that carry over from Paris and Milan. Bravo Monsieur Crocco!

View complete collection at Wireimage

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April 17, 2007

N.Y. Men’s F/W 07 – GILDED AGE

 The studio showing of his Gilded Age collection was very quick and simple in statement. So many designers are inspired by the whole imagery of Edith Wharton’s tales of the Gilded Age and the designs of such couturiers as Charles Fredric Worth. Designs typically worn by the tsars and aristocrats of the Gilded Age. Many forget that only 1% of the population lived this lifestyle. The other 99% were the pioneers of the whole America sportswear and leisurewear of the future. The design team at Gilded Age looked to the workingman and classic pieces that exist today. Like the denim pant even the utility jackets and vests. The looks incorporated several strong trends this season, from the heavy outerwear to a loosely tailored pant. One of the standout pieces in the opening looks is a knee-length black wool overcoat with a trench coat style collar and lapel.

Knit pieces are another strong statement they showed for Fall/Winter. The denim pants were distressed, while the wool pants were kept clean and not too tailored. The second section was a series of tailored pieces from the double-breasted p-coats to a blazer. The only miss found in the collection is how they tucked all of the pants into boots. The must have piece from the collection is cropped navy blue double-breasted p-coat that is closely tailored to the torso. I love how the buttons run all the way up to the collar of the jacket. Gilded Age’s Fall/Winter is full of great outerwear pieces. Although, I would like to have seen a few leather pieces in the collection. Overall the collection has a statement and presence. Bravo Gilded Age!

View complete collection at Wireimage

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April 16, 2007

PARIS Men’s F/W 07 – DRIES VAN NOTEN

Dries does 80’s Versace! From the classic Versace prints on silks to the boxy oversized shape outerwear. Although Van Noten looks in the direction of Prada for his pants, stirrup pants and synthetic tapered elastic pants. He makes sure the complete look fits the deconstructed Van Noten vision. The opening section is full of color, splashed here and there. One of the standout pieces in the opening section is the heavy gray cashmere/wool blend sweater with a contrast brocade print in yellow covering the sweater. In the second section Van Noten does a lot of black. With outerwear being the big trend pieces of the season, Van Noten presented several top contenders. One of the best pieces in this section is the brushed black wool cropped p-coat. The lapel of the jacket is lined with black silk satin and body of the jacket is tailored loose in an almost A-line silhouette.

In the third section kept the color palette dark with more grays and blacks. Van Noten key look in this section is a sexier evening look that molds skimpiness with street chic. One of the standout pieces in this section is a matching full leg pant and vest done in a gray silk/nylon taffeta fabric. Then he gave the evening an edgier look by taking classic dinner and tuxedo jackets and doing them in metallic satin fabrics and adding sheer knit pieces. One of the standout looks in this section was a double-breasted gray silk satin jacket worn with a dark gray sheer top and tapered black tuxedo pant.

The key pieces of the collection are the pieces. While some of the outrageously inspired Versace pieces were over the top. The knit pieces certainly are a nod to classic Van Noten. The first must have piece of the collection is one of Van Noten’s heavy overcoats. The coat is tailored wide in the body and the sleeve with a wide lapel and collar. The other must have piece from the collection is the three-weave cardigan. The cardigan sleeves and collar are done in a ribbed weave, while the body of the cardigan is pieced in a striped pattern. The strips alternate between a classic weave in orange heather yarn and a sheer dark gray knit. Several editors commented post show, “who designed this collection? Not Van Noten!” while the Versace inspiration was a little overboard a lot of the key pieces from the collection really do fit the whole Van Noten aesthetic. I would like to have seen more leather in the collection but I was excited to see Van Noten veer away from last seasons trends.

View complete collection at Mens Style,com

[images via Mens Style.com]

April 13, 2007

PARIS Men’s F/W 07 – PETAR PETROVI

Peter Petrovi’s Fall/Winter color palette is monochromatic, shifting from shades of blue to black and white. He repeated last season techno blue and is stuck on the whole skinny leg pant. The highlight of the collection is Petrovi’s prints in the first and second section. One of the standout print pieces is one of the knit from the second section. A geometric design sweater that incorporates several flags around the world, like the American, Israeli and Iraqi flags! In the second section Petrovi started show some strong outerwear pieces. Although a lot of the pieces really do not carry a similar theme throughout the collection, several really exhibit Petrovi style. One of the standout pieces combines another big trend this season, knitwear, a navy blue collarless knit cardigan.

The must have piece is another of Petrovi’s knit cardigans. This cardigan a thick navy blue ribbed knit cardigan with a rolled collar. The look Petrovi showed in this collection can easily be mistaken for a true `street chic look. Petrovi’s styling of the collection is very mainstream and several pieces throughout the collection are a nod to America Sportswear. Although the bold prints on shirts and jacket are taken from the looks we see on the streets of Paris right now.

View complete collection at Wireimage

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April 12, 2007

PARIS Men’s F/W 07 – DIOR HOMME

Slimane’s inspiration for the season was commented as early Pete Dohrety. My first impression was more the department store nomads in the “Night of the Comet” movie. Sadly Slimane seems to think the whole pant tucked into a boot look is they key trend for the season, please “No”! The opening section jumps right back to Slimane’s skinny look. Although, it’s not skin tight on the models, the clothes are a little loose but the silhouette is still tailored straight to the body. Sadly a lot of the pants shown in the collection are still tapered to the leg. Hedi opened with a series of black looks but then slowly moved into earth tones. One of the standout pieces in the section is the double-breasted khaki trench coat. The coat is knee length, tailored straight on the torso and has a slight flare around the thigh. For the second section Slimane shifts the silhouette into a volume look with his heavy outerwear pieces. He also adds leather pieces to the collection. The standout combination in this section is the black biker vest worn over a black collarless cashmere cardigan and a gray tweed knee-length vest.

In the third section Slimane adds more color but also focus on key pieces in all black. Leather is the fabric of choice in this section and Slimane gave some key leather looks for the season. One of the strongest leather pieces of the collection is a caramel colored suede jacket. The jacket is lined with rich caramel colored faux fur on the inside and on the lapel and collar. The jacket is detailed with patent leather strap on the body of the jacket and the sleeves. Another strong piece in this section cropped double-breasted p-coat in black leather. Slimane tailors the sleeves tight and the lapels and collar are draped like a trench coat. The only miss in this section were the sequined pieces. The closing section is punk'd up with graphic tees embellished with sequins.

The two must have pieces from the collection are two of this season big trend pieces. First is the brown checked print cropped overcoat. The coat is tailored is a a-line silhouette giving the coat a heavy look. Slimane does loosen the sleeve a little but is still tailored close to the arm. The other must piece is the black collar-less biker jacket. This season Hedi Slimane took the whole heavy outerwear trend to heart but kept tailored. His ability to take a little step out of his norm or safe zone is certainly evident in this collection. The collection as a whole has a number of classic Slimane pieces, several pieces open a new door for Slimane. Bravo Monsieur Slimane!

View complete collection at Mens Style,com

[images via Mens Style.com]

April 11, 2007

PARIS Men’s F/W 07 – BALENCIAGA

Nicolas Ghesquière’s Fall/Winter collection for Balenciaga tackles the American Sportswear and splits it into two. From the classic khaki’s modern urban housewife and the chic street punk. There were a few of last season trend recycled like the argyle and stained denim pants. The opening section incorporated a lot of this season big trends, from an abundant number of knit piece to heavy outerwear pieces. The knit pieces had a almost collegiate look to them. One of the top looks in the opening section was a v-neck blue argyle sweater worn with bleach splatter denim pant. All of the looks in the collection were shown with a cap and gloves. The second section really fell into a collegiate look but the knit pieces shifted into a modern deconstructed look. The jackets and vests in this section became very tailored and strong. One of the standout pieces in this section is a black wool bomber jacket worn with a gray vest and a straight leg khaki pant.

The closing section was very small this season, a few outerwear pieces but the emphasis is on a bundled look for Fall. The must have pieces from the collection are two young and playful pieces form the collection. First is the black cashmere/angora sweater, the bottom half of sleeves and body of the sweater is done in sheer net weave. In contrast the top half is a tight knit but the softness really tones down the modern look. The must have piece from the collection is paid of the bleached black denim pants. While the collection is very small, I was eager to see more. Last season we saw more of a modern look from Ghesquiere, this season he tones down the modern side and pump up the youthful edge to the collection. While the forward vision is absent, the collection is safe but still edgy for the Balenciaga customer. A lot of classic pieces to build off of, at the same time enough unique pieces to really give the client a new look to build off of. Bravo Monsieur Ghesquiere!

View complete collection at Mens Style,com

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April 10, 2007

PARIS Men’s F/W 07 – 0044

Sheer knits and layer the key trends for designer Seiichiro Shimamura”s fall collection for 0044. The opening section was a series of looks in a neutral palette with black added to several looks. One the overlooked accessory this season is the mens scarf. Shimamura showed several look with scarves both heavy and light around the neck. In the second section Shimamura focused on the layering and incorporated several strong outerwear pieces. Another key piece from the collection are the heavy knit cardigans. One of the standout looks in this section is a heather gray knit cardigan with a rolled collar. The bottom of cardigan is short is the front and long in the back. The look is finished with brown low-neck jersey shirt and skinny leg print pant. The front of the jersey shirt is detailed with crisscross strips of jersey.

The evening section of the collection was bundled up with scarves, fingerless gloves and done in black. A lot of the pants through out the collection have a skinny or tapered leg. The only print Shimamura showed in the collection is a feather print done in camouflage style and colors. The must have pieces from the collection are the heather style knit pieces. The must have look is a collared long gray knit cardigan worn under a black jersey waist length hooded jacket. To top the look off Seiichiro adds a matching gray heather knit scarf and a black low-neckline jersey shirt. The overall look of the collection is a traveler, with models bundled up with outerwear pieces and scarf’s. Missing from the collection is one leather pieces although Shimamura did show some leather strap detailing on the opening looks. While I loved the layering, the powerful imagery of street chic almost drowned out the collection. The look could be more complete if Shimamura choose to move away from the skinny leg pant. A fuller leg pant would really make the looks pop out.

View complete collection at Wireimage

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April 07, 2007

PARIS Men’s F/W 07 – FRANCISCO SMALTO

Italian tailoring with rich Parisian fabrics and textures, in short that’s what Francisco Smalto’s Fall/Winter collection embodies. The opening section is a business mans look reworked with the proportions changed. One visual is the heavy outerwear pieces, a big trend this season. My favorite piece in the opening section is the cropped tweed trench coat. Smalto kept the classic tailoring but the tweed fabric gives the coat an earthy modern look. There was very little color in opening section and Smalto showed several jackets in a Edwardian style with tails. Moving into the second section Smalto plays with layering and the length of the outerwear pieces. He focused on a longer length compared to the shorted pieces we’ve seen during Paris Fashion Week. One of the standout looks that played with layering of strong piece is the double jacket look. A cropped black wool p-coat worn over a black leather bomber jacket. To finish off the look is one of the best-knit pieces Smalto showed. A black and gray argyle sweater, the lines are fuzzy like they were airbrushed.

The closing section is all black, from satin and velvet jackets to the pleated front silk crepe black pants with a straight leg. The must have looks from the collection are two of Smalto’s dressed up looks. Fist is the blue/gray pinstriped day suit. The other must have look is the black dress shirt and straight leg pant look worn with a halter-top vest. Smalto’s collection is very sophisticated but the richness of the black and gray looks really move it away from the structured looks we see in Milan. Bravo Monsieur Smalto!

View complete collection at Wireimage

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April 06, 2007

PARIS Men’s F/W 07 – JEAN PAUL GAULTIER

Glossy, glossy, glossy, the look for Fall/Winter at Gaultier is sexy coiffed man. The decadent male image is taken from the 80’s and 70’s. The look is BIG hair and masculine sideburns or chops. The richness of the models hair and look is translated into the rich color palette and fabrics Gaultier choose for Fall. The opening section start with dark shades of brown and rust mixed into basic black looks. The detailed pieces in this section are the rich brown gloves and boots. Outerwear pieces are closely tailored while the pants are tailored with a straight leg. One of the standout looks in this section is an all leather look. A matching brown leather jacket and pant. The bottom of the pant is attached to classic brown suede combination cowboy boot. The sleeves of the jacket continue this idea with the embroidered boot leather used to finish the bottom of the boot. For the second section we see more knit pieces added into the collection as well as more leather pieces. The knits and fabrics are done with an Indian design following the whole American west theme.

The third section has Gaultier moving back to an all black color palette with shots of color like green. A lot of the pants in the collection are tapered to the leg and there were a few of last season velvet pants and jackets. The closing section is a move back to browns and then to black and gold. The big miss of the collection is the spandex pant for men. I know several designers have shown this pant over the season but it’s a trend that does not need to come alive. The must have pieces from the collection are two outerwear pieces. First is the tailored flat to the body camel coat. The wool is finely brushed to a softness, the collar cropped and lined with leather and the look is topped with a matching leather glove. The must have look is the evening version of the cowboy boot buff jacket. The jacket is a tailored silk/wool evening jacket with a slim lapel and mow collar. The sleeve cuffs are finished with the cowboy boot leather. Jean Paul Gaultier is the master of presenting a modern day collection for today. Every so often he does take themes a little too seriously but the usual result if great pieces for editorial. This season Gaultier outerwear pieces are the shinning stars for Fall/Winter.

View complete collection at Mens Style,com

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April 05, 2007

PARIS Men’s F/W 07 – JOHN GALLIANO

Japanese ‘Shogun’ meets Mad Max meets Akira!! For the opening section John Galliano showed several poncho looks leading into a series of bomber jackets. Then slowly Galliano added shifted into several driving jacket looks. The pants are military and cargo's inspired and move from a tapered leg to straight leg. The jackets got heavier and heavier and the looks became more layered moving into the second section. One of the standout pieces in the opening section is the earthy brown distressed leather overcoat. Another great outerwear piece from this section is the heavily detailed distressed bomber jacket worn with a pair of gray studded leather pant with a baggy leg. The jacket is detailed with embroidery and pieced together with two different leathers.

The second section moved away from the desert palette of color into a darker palette of blacks and grays. The pant also shifted away from the tapered leg and into heavy pant leg. In the third section Galliano sent the models down the runway with their faces covered with nylon and a clown face painted onto the nylon. An image from the Rob Zombie movies then the look shifted into a Star Wars “sand people” look. One of best looks out of this section is the gray treated cotton suit. The pant and jacket were both embroidered with a silver design and texture with paint. Another great piece in this section is the distressed brown leather suit vest.

The must have piece from the collection are from the third section. First is the black sheer knit sweater with the knit draped in strips on the torso. The must have piece is the silk-screened Galliano and Bull print on a gray jersey top. Galliano showed several silk-screen prints through out the collection. The closing section of the collection was a series of male models wearing Galliano boxer and briefs and silly dreadlocks style headpieces and wraps. Several praised Galliano’s recent Dior collection as one of his best, the truth, its been done and its been reworked. I can say the same for this collection. While the whole vision and styling of the collection is modern the looks are classic rebel Galliano. Just different fabrics, screen-prints and imagery. The collection is most certainly a safe one, I would like to have seen Galliano tone it down and really focus on the tailoring of the jackets and playing with more synthetic fabrics. One plus is there are a lot of leather pieces in this collection.

View complete collection at Mens Style.com

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April 04, 2007

PARIS Men’s F/W 07 – RYKIEL HOMME

Sonia Rykiel and her daughter Nathalie Rykiel are focused this season on a well-dressed client rather than a more fashion forward vision. While a vast majority of the collection is a lot of dark pieces, Rykiel still keeps her use of bold colors. The opening section is a series of knit looks, everything from stripes in classic Rykiel colors. Absent is a fluid look or statement. The knit pieces are bigger and bulkier this season. Another change is Rykiel showed several tapered leg pants as well as a few full leg pants. One of the standout knit pieces in the opening section is a chunky white cable-knit cashmere over-coat. Another great outerwear piece form the opening section is the black collegiate overcoat with a fur collar.

The second section was a lot darker, heavy coats and emphasis on more prints. The star sweaters and shirts were a nod to Victor & Rolf’s dance collection last season. Another repeat that Rykiel used was the techno blue but she did introduce a new color, techno purple! Two key pieces in the second section use this color and both done in leather. First is the full-leg techno purple pant done in suede. The pant is worn with a black and gray striped sweater. The other key piece is the techno purple suede blazer. I am in love with this new color, its vibrant and alive!

The last section of the collection is very bundled up, a lot of scarf’s and outerwear pieces. The pants even get heavier, one standout look is a white cashmere pant with a baggy leg. Worn with a thin cashmere black and grey striped sweater. Another standout look from the closing section is the black cashmere chunky knit dinner jacket. The jacket is tied off at the waist and worn with a white dress shirt and a tuxedo pant.

The must have looks from the collection incorporate some of Rykiel’s strongest outerwear pieces. First is the dark chocolate brown leather-driving jacket with a sculpted should and tailored tight in the torso and sleeve. The look is finished with a baggy white cashmere pant and merino v-neck sweater vest. The other must have look is another layered look, a wide lapel and collar tweed overcoat worn under a chunky black cashmere overcoat. The look is finished with a low-neckline striped sweater and straight leg black-brushed cotton pant. A decadent look but these two looks really bring the whole collection together. The playfulness of Rykiel’s design is very light in this collection. She presented one of her most commercially and eye pleasing collections to date. Bravo Madame Rykiel!

View complete collection at Wireimage

[images via Wireimage.com]

April 02, 2007

PARIS Men’s F/W 07 – RAF SIMONS

Dark, Dark and Sexy, Sexy! Raf Simons Fall/Winter collection is saturated with darkness and sexiness. It’s a lot of leather, a lot of shimmer and a lot of texture. The opening section is a group of dark colors of black, navy and brown done is combination looks of leather with silk and synthetic fabrics. Simons combination of fabrics is amazing, like silk with leather or Lycra with satin. Another strong element in the opening section is Simon’s knit pieces worn with leather pants and silk/wool blend slacks. One of the strongest pieces in this section is the steel blue silk and wool knit sweater. The sleeves and sides of the sweater are in diamond basket weave with the front and sides of the torso in a flat knit. The second section is a lot of blocked looks, with a modern statement in mind. The emphasis is on the contrast but keeping with a modern look. Simons plays with combining black of leather with wool fabrics. One of the standout pieces in this section is a blue overcoat. The top half of the coat including the sleeves is done in a blue wool and bottom half of the jacket is done in blue leather. An interesting detail is the sleeve cuff is finished with rings of patent leather in techno blue.

The third section or closing section was full of must have outerwear pieces for the whole season. Leather moved from the sleeves onto the bodice of outerwear pieces. The image that come out of this section of the collection is modern is for today. It’s not too far in the future but the emphasis is on the outerwear pieces. One of the standout pieces in this section is the textured black leather p-coat. The front of the jacket has patent leather dart on both sides. Another standout look from the evening section is the black and navy blue dinner jacket; the top half of the jacket is a black silk/cotton fabric while lower half of the jacket is done in a nylon silk blend fabric. The look is finished with a pair of arm length black leather gloves.

The must have looks from the collection are two knit pieces. First from the opening section is the black cashmere silk blend knit sweater worn with pair of leather pants and gloves. The knit design on the sweater is a modern shape, which is continued onto the pant. The other must have look the dark chocolate patent leather driving jacket. The shoulders of the jacket are done in heavy wool knit while the sleeves and torso are leather. The look is finished with a matching chocolate nylon/silk pant. Season after season Simons has really taken his craft to another level. While his collection for Jil Sander is clean, tailored and modern. His personal line is the other side of Simons, a more detailed vision and sexier side of Simons. The details are in the choice of fabrics, the placements of zippers on silk taffeta jackets. Bravo Monsieur Simons!

View complete collection at Wireimage

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March 30, 2007

PARIS Men’s F/W 07 – KRIS VAN ASSCHE

Designer Kris Van Assche’s inspiration for Fall/Winter 07’ is classic American sportswear meet the dandy. The opening section is drenched in a lot of black and a little dressed up. The focus is in incorporating contrast piping on the seaming and a small splash of yellow on a few looks. The second section is more street chic with prints incorporated into the looks. The look is a loose leg pant, vest and a lot of plaids. One of the strongest looks from the second section is a orange/gray/black plaid print jacket worn with a white dress shirt and black cotton twill full-leg pant. Another great look in this section is a black pin-stripe suit. The suit jacket is detailed with white piping on the arms and shoulder. The closing section was a series of puff jackets with male models escorting female models wearing a stronger look. The puff jackets are a bad repeat from last season. The strongest pieces and statement from the collection are all the pants. Van Assche presented a large number of different style pants all with a full leg.

The must have pieces from the collection are two of Van Assche’s outerwear pieces. First is the black wool overcoat with a wide lapel and collar. The seaming on one side of the coat is detailed with blue piping. The other must have piece is the black and white plaid bomber jacket with a black faux fur collar. The only thing you should steer clear from is a velvet pant in the collection. One of the low-trends of the collection, besides the obvious puff jackets were the pants stuffed into the boot trend. While this is one of Van Assche’s signature traits, a whole collection of pants stuffed into boots was a little overboard. Overall Van Assche had several strong pieces and looks through out the collection.

View complete collection at Wireimage

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March 20, 2007

Milan Men’s F/W 07 – GAETANO NAVARRA

From the Nordic North design Gaetano Navarra paraded his models right out of the snow blizzard! Not literally but the designer sprayed the models with white dust to make them look like they just got in from a blizzard. Right from the opening of the collection Navarra jumped into this seasons big trends. Chunky knits, leather jackets and fur on everything from gloves to outerwear. In the opening section two looks really jumped out at me, both are my must have pieces for the collection. Moving into the second section Navarra shifted to a darker color palette while play with his knits and outerwear pieces. One of the standout pieces is a gray corduroy fur collar jacket. Another strong look form the second section is a dark brown knit cardigan worn with a pair of dark chocolate leather pant. I was mad about the combination of the knit cardigan paired with the lather pant. A look I did not see last season when knits took a huge jump.

In the closing section Navarra mixed the collection up by showing several looks for day rather than evening. Large portions of the pants that he showed through out the collection were velvet, one of last season’s leftover trends. While he showed a few of last seasons trends, Navarra did play with some of this seasons top trends. One trend is gloves; he incorporates driving gloves with evening looks and then fur trimmed gloves and mittens with almost every look. He even trimmed several outerwear pieces with fur. One great example is the skunk scarf worn with a long tweed overcoat. Another trend that Navarra played with are detailed dress shirts. One of these great pieces was a gray stripe dress shirt detailed with satin ribbon on the front and back to look like suspenders and trimming the sleeve cuff.


While I fell in love with Navarra’s knit and leather pant look. The two must have pieces form the collection are two of the unique pieces from the collection. First is the v-neck cashmere argyle sweater. The argyle design is incomplete giving us a modern take on a classic design. The other must have piece is the dark olive green wool cropped p-coat. The front of the jacket is embellished with a Nordic design done in black beading palettes. On a side note I was little confused with why Navarra insisted on having disco balls scattered on the ground of the runway. The balls didn’t compliment the collection or the Baroque style space. While I found many great pieces in the collection one of the biggest disappointments is all of the tapered leg pants used throughout the collection and all of the velvet. It would have been nice to see the pants be more relaxed, I would like to have also seen more embellishment in the designs.

View complete collection at Wireimage.com

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March 19, 2007

Milan Men’s F/W 07 – CALVIN KLEIN

Designer Italo Zucchelli gives us another too safe Calvin Klein menswear collection. Zucchelli did incorporate techno fabrics with some of the classic Klein tailored and styled looks. Unfortunately these modern fabrics were too little and deem to drown with the whole Klein aesthetic. The opening section was done in a blue gray palette. Slowly Italo added color by jumping from the grays into shocking yellow. In the second section the move was made back to grays and mixing in a lot of black. One of the standout pieces in this section was the straight leg pleated pant. While Zucchelli opted to not to loosen his pant leg more, the straight leg pant is hope. Another strong look from the second section was a black silk/wool blend suit. The suit is loosely tailored around the middle of the arm and torso and then slight tapered at the wrist and hip and flared. Giving the suit a modern line, a look not normally seen at Calvin Klein.

For the third section Zucchelli moved away from the blue and grays of the second section and focus on leather, sheer and plastic fabrics. One of the strongest looks from the section is an all black look. It’s a black wool collarless overcoat worn with a sheer black shirt and a black tapered leg pant. The jacket neckline is detailed with a strip of white in the absence of the classic lapel. Another strong look from this section is a white satin jacket. The satin fabric is overlaid with a clear plastic fabric; the look is finished with a dark gray wool pant and plunging neckline top.

The two must have pieces from the collection are two bold statements from Calvin Klein. First is one of the big trends this season, leather. The must have leather piece is a black ostrich leather-driving jacket. The other must have piece is the vibrant canary yellow merino knit cardigan worn with a pale canary yellow v-neck shirt. The strongest pieces from the collection are the heavy tops and outerwear pieces, a key trend for the season. I would like to have seen Zucchelli really explore more with the collection, adding more color or even more prints. If Zucchelli could simply take something from Costa or just be on the same page. There is certainly a big difference between the design elements of the mens and womens collections.

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March 16, 2007

Milan Men’s F/W 07 – DSQUARED2

Mad Max is back from Thunderdome! Brothers Dean and Dan Caten look to the future but a future derived back in the 80’s. The opening section is a series of classic sportswear that are embellished with all the straps/pockets and zippers you could possible need. The look was all over the place, from truckers and dandy’s to western. The common theme in the collection was all the embellishments on each piece. In the opening section the Caten brothers kept the pant leg tapered to the ankles. The standout pieces were the leather pants; the zipper and pocket details give the pants a punk look. Didn’t hurt that they showed the pant on models wearing no tops!

In the second section Dean and Dan added more color and the pants and denim started to loosen up in the leg. Although the look is still all over the place in this section, the Caten brothers seemed to be stuck to some of last season’s trends. From the puff jacket to the dandy trucker! One of the unique trends the duo played with this season was the fur coat. The piece is a dyed fur coat! One of the standout pieces in the second section is a military style jacket that is usually done in heavy wool fabric. The jacket is done in muted military green leather with the sleeve tailored close to the arm. In the third section the look begins to shift into evening, with the classic DSquared2 trucker still an inspiration. The highlight of the evening section is the large number of black leather outerwear pieces and pants. Another unique look was the black silk satin tuxedo with a matching bulletproof vest. Now tell me you won’t need something like this when the world goes to hell!

The two must have piece from the collection are two black leather outerwear pieces. First is a black leather hip-length coat with a mow collar and lapel. The other must have piece is a black leather driving jacket, worn with a riding pant style denim pant. While the inspiration palette for most Dean and Dan Caten’s collection tends to be all over the place. This season the collection seemed to lack a fluid look or statement. The strongest looks in the collection incorporated their whole world destruction vision and the key pieces to look are the leather pieces. Sexy is the Caten brother’s way of life but this season they seem to get lost in their theme!

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March 15, 2007

Milan Men’s F/W 07 – VALENTINO

 For Fall/Winter Valentino opted to keep his classic style the defining vision for the look of the collection. Overall Valentino presented a very simple collection with very little experimentation. The only trend that I really took from the collection is the heavy outerwear for day and evening. In the opening section he opened with a series of all white (and I mean all white) looks, everything from the pants, shirts, outerwear and accessories. Two of the standout pieces in this section are two outerwear pieces. First a crisp white double breasted overcoat worn with a bright white linen suit. The other must have piece is a white leather driving jacket with a wide collar.

In the second section Valentino presented a large series of day suits done in black and grays. There were a few brown looks in this section. One of the standout pieces was a classic camel wool double-breasted overcoat with a wide lapel and collar. One of the standout suits in this section was a dark charcoal gray pinstriped suit. The tailoring is looser in the jacket, which the pant is tailored with a straight leg. For the evening section Valentino moved away from grays and browns and focused on all black. Showing everything from his classically tailored tuxedos. Lacking from this section is a play with the shapes he gave his outerwear pieces early in the collection.

This season Valentino gave us two must have looks. First is the gray tweed overcoat worn with a gray pinstripe pant and black knit cardigan. The other must have look is a brown suede overcoat worn with a gray wool/silk blend pant with a straight leg. To finish off the look Valentino added a pale gray cashmere turtleneck sweater. Both looks are certainly do not fit into the classic Valentino vision, its shows that Valentino can step out of the tailored look and give us a everyday look that still looks tailored. Overall I would like to have seen Valentino experiment on these looks and vision. While the overall statement from the collection is to keep a steady look, change has to happen.

View complete collection at Mens Style.com

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March 14, 2007

Milan Men’s F/W 07 – ALESSANDRO DELL’ACQUA

This season designer Alessandro Dell’Acqua showed a relatively small collection, only 32 looks total. The color palette is very limited this season, Dell’Acqua accents with black while splashing a few red and green pieces throughout the collection. In the opening section the designer showed several of last season trends, from the puff jackets to monochromatic knitwear. One of the standout looks in the opening section was a red patent leather bomber jacket. The look is finished with a tapered leg pant. Throughout the collection Alessandro showed a variation of looks giving us both the classic tapered leg pant and a straight leg for comfort. In the second section, through sea of black, another strong piece was a black nylon jacket lined with faux black shearling.

The must have pieces from the collection are both from the closing section. First is a black silk/wool blend overcoat with black satin lined lapels. The overcoat is worn with metallic knit turtleneck sweater and tapered leg pant. Another must have piece from the collection is the black leather tuxedo jacket with satin lined lapels, One of the most unique pieces from the collection. In the end of the collection I loved the experimentation of the evening look but lacking was a strong pant for men. Something else that is lacking from the collection is this season’s need for leather pieces. While Dell’Acqua did give us several standout outerwear pieces, it would have been nice to see him add more leather pieces to the collection.

View complete collection at Mens Style.com

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March 13, 2007

Milan Men’s F/W 07 – J. LINDBERG

Designer Johan Lindberg’s “new luxury” for Fall/Winter is a collection of layered looks. From the opening section to the closing section, Lindberg presented a sea of black and gray looks with a few tones of green mixed into some gray looks. One of the strongest statements that Lindberg presented this season was abandoning the skinny leg pant completely for a full/baggy leg pant. One of the standout looks in the opening section was a black wool full leg pant worn with a cropped gray wool-driving jacket. Lindberg gave the jacket a military style collar and molded the shoulder with a shoulder pad.

The new luxury look was not popping out at me, instead what I was seeing was a varied look of well dressed seamen with a disheveled artist. Lindberg did show several knitwear pieces throughout the collection, but one of the strongest trends he used was the glove. Another great trend is the knit cap, which was shown on most of the black looks. Black is modern but Lindberg really gives black decadence with his eye for layering. One of the standout black looks in the second section is a cropped black wool p-coat with double pockets. The look is finished an extra long knit shirt and baggy leg black wool pant. Another strong look from this section is a charcoal gray wool overcoat worn with a matching gray wool pant.

In the third section Lindberg started to add more color to the collection along with leather pieces. One of the great color leather pieces is tan oil treated leather trench coat worn with a brown wool pant and knit top. A great example of Lindberg’s layering that he used through out the collection is one of the tan looks. A cropped off white driving jacket worn over a waist-length knit vest over extra long light brown dress shirt. To finish off the look, a baggy pair of brown tweed pants.

The must have looks from the collection are to leather looks from the close of the collection. First a cropped black leather driving jacket with a straight tailored sleeve. To complete the look a pair of high waisted black wool pants with a double pleated. The other must have leather look is a black leather blazer treated with a sheen. To finished the look a pair of baggy black wool/silk pant, the silk gives a sheen to the pant. The layering is a highlight of the collection the leather pieces and pants are its strong points. The show closed with a female model, I am okay with designer previewing the womenswear collection by showing a few looks in the mens show. But I have a problem when mens collection is overpowered by the womens look or in this case closes the show with a womens look rather a mens look. Although Lindberg did not mold his collection on the new movement of future trend, I was excited to see his vision of give menswear a layered and covered up look. While introducing a new trend for the season, double pleated pants! Bravo Monsieur Lindberg!

View complete collection at Mens Style.com

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March 12, 2007

Milan Men’s F/W 07 – NEIL BARRETT


This season designer Neil Barrett swings back and forth between a black and white palette. The play between the good and bad or the yin and yang is the visual statement for the collection. While some designers chose the glove as it accessory for the season, Barrett opts for the classic bowler hat. The opening section is a series of black and gray looks with a mix of metallic silver pieces. The experimentation of the black and white is mixed with varying lengths, like short or ¾ length sleeve shirts worn over long sleeve shirts. A great example of this style is one of the standout pieces in the opening section. A white cotton dress shirt worn with the sleeves rolled up over a gray long sleeve knit shirt. The key to this look is the gray wool slack with a contrast stripe vertical on the leg.

In the second section Barrett shows more outwear looks mixed with a few knitwear pieces. The selection of knits is sparse with only one knit design repeated throughout the jacket. One of the misses in this section are the series of puff jackets we saw last Fall/Winter. Another standout look in the opening section that exhibited this look is a black wool overcoat. The coat is sleeveless while the length of the coat is long, below the waist. For the closing section Barrett showed a stream of black looks done in shiny fabrics.

The must have piece of the collection is an oversized overcoat in black wool with a wide lapel. The design might look simple but the seaming detail is defined and the shape of the jacket is a silhouette I would like to have seen more throughout the collection. Barrett also seemed to be all over the place with his pants, a problem many designers are struggling with this season. Overall the look and inspiration that I saw throughout the collection were 80’s themes and details. From the pants covered with zippers or pockets, parachute pants, even the 80’s style teardrop weave sweaters.

View complete collection at Mens Style.com

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March 10, 2007

Milan Men’s F/W 07 – BOTTEGA VENETA

Milan designers are certainly going forward and backward on the tailoring of men pants this season. The last two seasons we saw a flux of designers moving away from the skintight and tapered leg pant trend that designer Hedi Slimane started back in 2002. This season designer Thomas Maier kept the Bottega Veneta pant open to your imagination. He showed a combination of both full and tapered leg pants through out the collection. The opening section is a very safe idea of the English gentlemen and then it switched over to 50’s style Sinatra. While these two looks were safe it was not jumping out of the usual shell. One of the standout pieces in this section is the 2 piece double-breasted suit. The suit is done in gray wool with a wide-set pinstripe. The shoulders of the blazer are tailored with a high sleeve insert, creating a wing a affect on the shoulder. In the second section Maier shifted away from the tailored opening and into a bolder and loose shape. One the standout looks in this section is a polished tan wool overcoat. The coat has an a-line shape to the body with lapel and collar draped wide. A modern piece, but very clean and a step away from the corporate sophisticate.

Also in the second section Maier started to incorporate the classic Bottega Veneta leather pieces. This season he experiments with texture and treatment, the result, bold and leisurely. One of the standout pieces is a cropped driving jacket done in pale olive green leather covered with a quilt box stitch. Another great piece in this section is a classic trench coat done in leather. The leather is oil-treated and shaved becoming a looser fabric.

Moving into the evening section Tomas Maier plays with the classic black but he also included more of his olive green pieces. One of the standout looks is a play on the classic p-coat. The coat has an a-line tailored shape and double-breasted. In stead of a classic lapels Maier gives the jacket a turtle-neck style lapel, Another great p-coat from this section is a classic black wool p-coat with the lapels draped wide and low on the coat. The only drowning moments in this section were the velvet pants. This season Maier showed several full leg pants, but the tailoring is odd. At first I thought the models had large thighs, a closer look revealed that the pant was tailored close to the thigh and loose to the calf. I am not sure this style will be appealing to men.

The must have pieces from the collection are compliments from the two looks that Maier presented. First is one of the a-line p-coat, which he cropped above the waist and done in a pale brown shaved velvet. The shaved velvet fabric is a great because it shows the movement of the jacket. The other must have is one of the suit looks in the opening of the collection. A three-piece suit done in a silk/wool blend with the pant tailored straight. The jacket shows of the tailored inset creating a wing affect. There were too many stretches in the collection as a whole. From the shapeless denim pants or all denim looks to the washed out faux fur. While Bottega Veneta is known for its classic leisurewear, I would like to have seen Tomas build off of the new look he showed in the later half of the collection.

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March 09, 2007

Milan Men’s F/W 07 – ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

For his Fall/Winter collection McQueen draws inspiration from the future trend of the season. In this collection Alexander McQueen plays with two prominent images, 80’s Max Hedron and the styling of the “V” character from “V for Vendetta”. The glossy makeup on the male models along with the sculpted hairstyles, he plays with the image of manicured male that matches his manicured collection for the future. In the opening section he opened with a series of metallic sheen suits that are perfectly tailored. One of the strongest looks in this section is a take on the classic seal skin suit that McQueen re-tailored to give it clean lines with defined silhouette, certainly a far cry from the Mafia style seal skin suits. As the opening section of day suits progressed, slowly unique details appeared, like plastic detailing shirt cuffs and openings. One of the standout pieces was a white silk/cotton dress shirt with plastic detailing on the cuffs. The look is finished with a clear pale blue plastic sleeveless coat.

In the opening section the color palette was done in several earth tones. McQueen added splashes of color in the later half of the section. Going into the second section he shifted into a darker palette for his active wear. One interesting note is the keyhole hood or mask that McQueen showed. He has shown this hood before, but several designers this season have included this look into their collection. One of the standout looks in this section used this hood. Worn under a black long sleeve turtleneck top detailed with a blue stripe. The look is finished with a treated leather pant tailored with full leg. In the third section McQueen started to experiment with different fabric and treatments. One of the most unique fabrics in this section was a neoprene that were bonded with felt and detailed with taffeta. The neoprene fabric is stiff but the stiffness gives the pieces a modern tailored look. One example was a cropped waist p-coat done in black neoprene.

For the evening section Alexander McQueen continues to delight us with his stunning detailing and beading. Continuing to breakdown the masculine barriers by allowing men to doll up while still being sophisticated. There were two pieces in the evening section that really defined this new image. First is McQueen’s classic evening overcoat with embroidery of fern leafs on the bottom of the jacket, detailed with beading. The tailored shoulder is rounded and cut at a point. The other standout piece in the evening section is another evening overcoat with one of the big trends hitting the runways this season, Fur! Now I am not a huge fan of Fur but this coat is one the most unique pieces in the collection. The overcoat is done in black polished velvet with the fern embroidery at the bottom of the jacket. The shoulders and the hood is finished with black fur.

As the collection progressed I started to see another theme or inspiration that McQueen drew from. Several looks in the early part of the collection as well as the closing section took on the whole future theme. The masks and metallic fabrics seemed to be drawn right from Battle Star Galactica. One of these looks was an oversized black wool evening overcoat. The lapels of the coat are a large panel draped over the chest and shoulder and becomes apart of the collar. The lapel is done in a metallic moiré. To finish the look McQueen covered the models face with a metal plate and a black silk knit hood. Can you say Cylon! Extreme, but this look really brought the whole vision of the collection together.

The must have pieces of the collection are two outerwear pieces that are almost in contrast with each other. First is one of the black neoprene coats with the blue taffeta detailing on the seaming. The construction of the jacket is very clean and with the stiffness of the neoprene the silhouette is bold. The other must have piece is a brown tweed wool overcoat with a loose silhouette and the lapel and opening trimmed with white piping. In the later half of the collection the full shape created by loose tailoring tied off at the waist gave the models an hourglass shape. Certainly not a common figure most menswear designers will experiment with. While I love this shape for men, breaking those stereotypes and boundaries, men like me can only dream of having that shape. Where was McQueen menswear in the early 90’s when I had that figure! Bravo Monsieur McQueen!

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March 08, 2007

Milan Men’s F/W 07 – MISSONI

This season designer Luca Missoni took inspiration from his recent holiday in Tanzania, Africa. Right from the opening of the collection he takes the classic geometric design of native African jewelry and textiles. Missoni plays with the classic Missoni prints and gives them a new shape. In the second section Luca took the classic cable knit design and morphed into some classic looks and even some new looks. One of the standout looks in this section is a black and orange two-tone cable knit sweater. The cable knit weave intersects wit the two colors weaved together. Another standout look was from the second section, which was a series of classic horizontal line sweaters. The sweater is a green and white design wit the length of the sleeves extra long. This long sleeve trend is showing up here and there during Milan fashion Week.

One of the continued looks Missoni shows each season is the matching knit pant and jackets. I would like to see this look to disappear. Another trend from last season that needs to disappear is the velvet pant, which several designers are still showing. While Missoni is known for its classic knitwear, this season they did experiment with outerwear. Two of the standout outerwear pieces of the collection are two parka style jackets. Both are hooded and the first one is done in vibrant metallic green fabric and cropped at the waist. The other is yellow metallic parka lined and ¾ length. To finish the look off Missoni showed a navy blue wool/silk blend suit with a tailored straight pant. This season Missoni opted to show different shapes in the pants, from the tapered leg to straight and even a full leg pant.

The must have pieces of coarse are two knit pieces. First is one of the Tanzania inspired Missoni sweaters that opened the collection. The intersection of the geometric design does catch your eye. The other must have pieces is a matching white cashmere cable knit sweater and cardigan. Worn with a blue and gray Missoni stripe scarf. One of the highlights of this collection is the tailoring of the suits that Missoni showed with some of his outerwear pieces. While its important to carry on the classic Missoni knit season after season. I would love to see the Missoni’s start to experiment and reinvent the classic tailored suits.

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Milan Men’s F/W 07 – PRADA

Miucca Prada’s silhouette this season is not for the typical womens collection. Rather her menswear line, the shape, “Top Heavy”. Backstage several photographers immediately commented on primitive image that the designer was hoping to achieve. In translation the look is abandoning the masculine barriers that have been strictly followed for over 500 years. Primitive could also describe the opening section of the caveman sweater, a look we attribute to the Flintstones. The opening sections of knits were too bushy. Miucca hit the nail on the head with one knit sweater at the close of the collection. A light gray cashmere sweater with a floral design incorporated in to the knit. The sweater sleeve is short with a princess style shape. The sweater drapes below the waist, almost at skirt length. In the second section Prada played with texture and made it visual. Showing a series of black looks with a color contrast frosted onto the fabric. One of the best looks was a heavy black jacket with the bottom of the jacket frosted up towards the neck.

The frosted color continued into the third section of knits. Prada kept the knits pieces chunky and fuzzy. The standout trend in this section is the abundant use of color. One of the standout pieces in this section is a orange wool/angora knit sweater worn with a gray tapered leg pant with the waistline frosted with the same orange. Sadly Miucca opted to keep her pants this season tapered to the leg. From the pants and even her obvious favorite statement, stirrup pants. In the closing section Prada played with linear lines in the tailoring and detailing. She maintains a modern heavy shape in this section but the key pieces were the series of overcoats. One of the standout pieces was a black overcoat with the shoulders and hood blocked with gray and white.

The two must have pieces from the collection are two of Prada’s overcoats. First from the evening section, Prada takes the classic collared overcoat and does it in silk/nylon fabric. When the jacket moved the light shift from top to bottom on the jacket. The other must have piece is one of the frosted color overcoats earlier in the collection. A stiff shape overcoat with a pale celery green frosted from the hem of the jacket and sleeve cuff. Miucca Prada excessive use of jersey and Lycra leggings was a little to fashion backwards. In the third section she did give us her futuristic eye by showering a series of pieces that redefine fabrication. There were certainly some standout trend pieces from the collection. The overall look and theme had a lot of wholes with quirky little ideas that make you frown.

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March 07, 2007

Milan Men’s F/W 07 – JIL SANDER

For his junior collection at Jil Sander, Raf Simons pays homage to the classic Sander tailoring and again taking a leap away in the future. The opening section was a sea of black and moving into multi-shades of gray. The first impression from the opening section is the abundant choices of outerwear this season. A move away from the classical Jil Sander suits we see almost every season. One of the strongest statements in the opening was the new black wool overcoat with the classic Sander straight line tailoring. The black wool is detailed with a wide-set gray stripe. What caught my eye is how Simons tailored the collar and lapel flat to neckline. The absence of stiff collar is a great and comforting look. Another strong look in this section a two-piece black wool suit wit the same wide-set gray stripe. The pants this season are mix of the tapered leg with the straight leg. It’s really hard to watch such great top pieces in this collection paired with the repetitive look of the skinny leg pant.

In the second section Simons moved back to a all black color palette with a shock of metallic blue on one piece and then back to black. This season Simons focused on the outwear trend but he mixed in several unique casual piece looks. One of the standout casual looks is one of the few knitwear pieces in the collection. A gray cashmere turtleneck sweater with a line design across the shoulders, sleeves and waist. To finish the look off he choose a pair of gray wool pleated front slack with a straight leg. Another strong knit piece in the second section is a black wool cardigan. The cardigan is a button front piece with the opening finished with a contrast gray heather yarn.

The third section was a mix of the black tailored looks with several and a few leather pieces. One of the strongest leather pieces from the collection is black leather jacket that is tailored like a scuba suit. The collar is lined with faux black fur and the leather is stitched on the leather to create a structured look to the jacket. Moving into the evening section Simons played with texture of the fabrics he used. One of the most unique pieces in this section was a black wool blazer. The wool is polished giving the blazer a metallic/velvet luster.

The must have pieces from the collection are two overcoats done in the two hit fabrics from the collection. First is the polished wool fabric from the closing section, done into a ¾ length overcoat. The collar is tailored collar bone and the shoulder has a slight bubble shape at the crest of the shoulder. The other must have overcoat is done in the gray wool fabric with the wide-set gray stripe. Simons played with the stripe design in the fabric and at the hem of the coat the stripes are crisscrossed. From this one look I could finally see one of the inspirations for the collection, the movie “Tron”. What is fascinating about these two pieces is how they define this collection as one of Simons best collection to date for Jil Sander. The options are endless in this collection but the detail of the tailoring and design is what will make this collection the best collection at Milan fashion week. Bravo Monsieur Simons!

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March 06, 2007

Milan Men’s F/W 07 – COSTUME NATIONAL

costumenatfw07 5.png costumenatfw07 3.png Designer Ennio Capasa’s Fall/Winter collection for his Costume National label is all about gloves and covering up with turtlenecks and scarves. Capasa opened the collection with a series of white and gray combination looks. The combination of white jackets with gray wool pants is a refreshing vision of a sea of black but the tailoring and overall look did not mesh with the rest of the collection. In the second section the color palette gets darker with more black incorporated into each look. There was one splash of color, a red leather bike jacket. One of the standout looks in this section is one of Capasa’s boxy silhouette overcoats. The coat is done in a metallic silver fabric with the opening of the jacket offset to one side. I especially love how the collar of the coat was closed under collar rather down the front of the coat.

costumenatfw07 10.png costumenatfw07 11.png In the evening section Capasa gives his classic tailoring a futuristic look and detail. He morphs this modern design with the masculine shapes and especially in the leather pieces. For evening he showed more metallic fabrics and combined them in looks with muted fabrics. One of the standout evening looks from the closing section was a gray metallic two-piece suit worn with a stark white cotton dress-shirt. Another bold and unique look in the closing section was a black-cropped jacket. The jacket is done in muted black taffeta fabric. The sleeves are tailored with a straight line and the waistline of the jacket is chopped off to the breast line of the model.

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The must have pieces from the collection were two of Capasa’s most experimental pieces. First is one of the black taffeta overcoats. The coat collar high on the neck and sheen of the coat gives us the metallic look. The other must have outerwear pieces is a gray wool/angora overcoat. The combination of the wool and angora give the overcoat texture a softer look. Compared to the modern shapes of the taffeta and cotton outerwear pieces, this jacket was a modern look but less sharp. With some of the Milan designer moving back towards a tapered leg pant this season it would have been nice to see the tapered pant take a new shape. Ennio Capasa opted to keep with the classic shape this season while his great leather outerwear for F/W is where you’ll really find new clients. I would not be surprised if Costume National will end up having some of the top leather pieces from Milan fashion week, maybe even for the Fall/Winter season.

View complete collection at Mens Style.com

[images via Mens Style.com]

Milan Men’s F/W 07 – DOLCE & GABBANA

dolcegabbanafw07 3.png dolcegabbanafw07 4.png This season the designer duo took last season’s futuristic inspiration to the next level. Morphing their masculine and sexy design with outer space and astronauts. They opened the collection with a series of silver and gold metallic astronaut pants and suits. Then the first section moved away from metallic and into all white with hints of gray and black. Then moving back to metallic, one standout piece is a gray silk satin wide lapel and collar trench coat. Moving into the second section Dominico and Stefano shifted into their classic tailored looks mixed with some the new metallic shades. One of the standout suits in this section was a dark charcoal suit with straight cut slack and a smaller collar and lapel.

dolcegabbanafw07 5.png dolcegabbanafw07 9.png Then slowly Dolce & Gabbana incorporated a key trend for this season, leather outerwear. The designers kept to the classic black and even playing with metallic treatments on leather in golf and copper. One of the standout leather pieces in this section is quilted black leather jacket. The torso is stitched with a ribbed designer while the shoulders are finished with a pillow quilt. For the third section Dolce & Gabbana increased their use of color with a soft tan popping out in leather pieces and suits. One of these stronger uses of color on a series of leather jackets. The leather was coated with shades of copper and gold. The gold is a nod to last seasons gold trench, but their use of copper is breath of change. One of the standout jackets in this section is a bomber jacket with a high collar.

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For the closing section the designers moved back to their classic tailoring accented with their skintight pants and pinned torso jackets and coats. This section is a drastic change from the silhouette seen earlier in the show. I would like to have seen the modern tailoring shown in the earlier section. Like the dark charcoal gray overcoat with the lapels trimmed in black silk satin. To finish the look D&G showed a straight leg pant and black driving gloves. Gloves are another trend that the designers showed with almost every look. In the evening section they opened with a series of silver tuxedos and then moved into their astronaut theme. One of the standout evening looks was a 2-piece all silver suit, with the lapel narrowed. While the astronaut looks were fun and playful, the theme continued into the parka jackets and oversized knit piece with leather straps was a little out there.

dolcegabbanamh.png Leather outerwear, the two must have pieces are the key to this big trend for Fall/Winter 07’. First is a black driving jacket with the leather seamed vertically and the leather treated with a black dye. The other must have piece is another driving jacket from the collection. The jacket is done with a bike jacket tailoring but with a strap collar like a driving jacket. The leather is treated with a copper dye to give it a metallic luster. Another crowning moment of the collection is the classic Dolce & Gabbana suit. Season after season the tailoring of the Dolce & Gabbana suit gets a little more modern. The result is a series of well-tailored jackets with an emphasis on the future theme they took on for the season. The whole future look is great but the astronaut suits and metallic pants were a little over kill. In truth those metallic parka jackets are going to sell thanks to the hip-hop and rap culture. Don’t be surprised if they make it onto the red carpets and music videos.

View complete collection at Mens Style.com

[images via Mens Style.com

March 02, 2007

Milan Men’s F/W 07 – BURBERRY

Picture 6.png Picture 3.png With climates changing the norm of Winter and Fall in the past couple of years. Designer Christopher Bailey gets a little more bundled up this season. The item accessory from the collection are Burberry leather gloves and fur mittens. While Burberry is known for its manicured and gentlemanly clothing, this season Bailey focuses on the stylized design of military uniforms from the first and second war. In the opening section he showed several knit pieces and big trend from last season that Bailey embellished by emphasizing on the knit weave and design. The two standout knit pieces in this section were a twist on the classic cable knit. The first sweater is navy blue wool cable-knit with a nautical knot weave design incorporated. The look is finished with a lightweight ribbed knit turtleneck sweater with and extra long torso. The other standout knit piece is the chunky olive green cable knit sweater. The sweater is extra-long on the body and long sleeve.

Picture 10.png Picture 12.png Another theme that Bailey used throughout the collection is to lengthen the sleeves on everything from jackets, shirts and sweaters. This longer silhouette was kept defined to the upper body while Bailey moved back to his classic tapered leg pant. The Burberry pants seem to be a second thought this season. The front of the pant was not tailored right, making the pant ride up in the groin area. The tapered leg pant did emphasize the new length of Burberry’s outerwear and knitwear. Another trend that Bailey emphasized on was his use of metallic. He steered clear of bright and shiny shades of gold and silver for metallic shades of blue, yellow and copper. The two-standout metallic pieces were two outerwear pieces. First is a metallic blue hooded overcoat with a black faux fur liner. The other is a take on the classic Burberry trench coat. Done in a pale metallic yellow fabric and the shape and shoulders are squared off. To finish the look Bailey showed a printed taffeta tapered pant. He only used a few prints in the collection, but this Herringbone print is the standout print of the collection. Bailey took the classic herringbone print and morphed it with a tiger print.


burberrymusthave.png For the close of the collection Bailey added more color while most of the collection is very neutral. The two must have pieces incorporate one of the strongest statements in the collection. Throughout the collection Bailey looked to the military tailoring from the first and second world wars. His leather outerwear are the must have pieces for the season. First must have piece is the brown peacock leather trench overcoat. The lapels and collar are oversized and the length almost full-length. The other must have leather coat is the shorter version of the peacock leather overcoat. The leather is dyed with a yellow-green shade and the lapels are smaller with the collar covered with faux shearling. Outerwear is the strongest statement at the Burberry collection. Bailey took a chance on some key looks this season. Emphasizing his outerwear pieces with leather and softer colors while focusing on a strict tailoring style. It’s important to ensure that the classic Burberry trench is always evolving, Bailey shows us he can take the Burberry style and merry it into something unexpected. The only weak point of the collection is the pants.

View complete collection at Mens Style.com

[images via Mens Style.com]

July 10, 2006

MILAN Men’s S/S 07 – GIANFRANCO FERRE’

In the program notes; Ferré notes that his pallet for Spring/Summer is neutrals and natural colors from sand to plate metallic. My gut reaction, what about blues, greens and red? The opening section was all dark blues and dark grays. The opening section was by the book, models appeared one by one in several suit and knitwear looks. Completely covered! Very little skin! The downside to so much formal looks was Ferré's tried to add a little fun with the looks. One of the big miss looks was the opening look of a techno blue color slicker, why can’t this color just disappear. Another playful idea that Ferre’ used in excess is the denim jean which he tailored very similar to a carpenter fit jean.

Ferré; showed several suit looks, but the models were paraded down the runway with the blazer folded up in their hands. Of coarse showing off the embroidered “F” on the inside lining. This really didn’t give us a complete look at Ferré's suits. The second section was in an introduction of more outerwear and leather pieces. Some the standout pieces in this section were the white suede and python cropped driving jackets. One of the key leather looks was the light brick color alligator leather driving jacket. Sadly Ferré paired the jacket with a pair of his baggy cotton twill carpenter pants.

In the third section Ferré shifted to a black and white pallet. Several strong looks really stood out in this section. But Ferré had a little fun with his liking in this section. As much as I though the black white print of Ferré profile was cute and very lifelike (meaning no thinning of Ferré's image was done). The shirts and shorts were too simple and didn’t have any edge that fit into the Ferré look. I was pleased to see that the dress slacks worn with the printed shirts were getting more relaxed.

In the closing section Ferré started adding splashes of color finally. And Bold Color! Although I was not really into the patent leather jackets he showed in red, blue, orange and black. The standout pieces in this colorful section were the silk/wool blend dress slacks at the close of the collection. The waistline is slightly lower but pant leg has a straight leg cut with a flat front. Ferré showed this pant in a bottle green and light green color plus his gray and steel blues. I did not like the mandarin collar shirts worn with the pants.

natural colors from sand to plate metallic. My gut reaction, what about blues, greens and red? The opening section was all dark blues and dark grays. The opening section was by the book, models appeared one by one in several suit and knitwear looks. Completely covered! Very little skin! The downside to so much formal looks was Ferre’s tried to add a little fun with the looks. One of the big miss looks was the opening look of a techno blue color slicker, why can’t this color just disappear. Another playful idea that Ferre’ used in excess is the denim jean which he tailored very similar to a carpenter fit jean.

Ferre; showed several suit looks, but the models were paraded down the runway with the blazer folded up in their hands. Of coarse showing off the embroidered “F” on the inside lining. This really didn’t give us a complete look at Ferre’s suits. The second section was in an introduction of more outerwear and leather pieces. Some the standout pieces in this section were the white suede and python cropped driving jackets. One of the key leather looks was the light brick color alligator leather driving jacket. Sadly Ferre’ paired the jacket with a pair of his baggy cotton twill carpenter pants.

In the third section Ferre’ shifted to a black and white pallet. Several strong looks really stood out in this section. But Ferre’ had a little fun with his liking in this section. As much as I though the black white print of Ferre’s profile was cute and very lifelike (meaning no thinning of Ferre’s image was done). The shirts and shorts were too simple and didn’t have any edge that fit into the Ferre’ look. I was pleased to see that the dress slacks worn with the printed shirts were getting more relaxed.

In the closing section Ferre’ started adding splashes of color finally. And Bold Color! Although I was not really into the patent leather jackets he showed in red, blue, orange and black. The standout pieces in this colorful section were the silk/wool blend dress slacks at the close of the collection. The waistline is slightly lower but pant leg has a straight leg cut with a flat front. Ferre’ showed this pant in a bottle green and light green color plus his gray and steel blues. I did not like the mandarin collar shirts worn with the pants.

The must have looks from the collection are two knitwear looks. First was the white knit collar-less cardigan with a matching belt. The cardigan is buttoned in a wide double-breasted look. The cardigan is worn with a flared leg denim pant. The other must have look is the white knit jacket that is double breasted and lapel are large and drape over the breast plate and shoulders of the jacket. Worn with a straight leg denim pant. I found Ferré excessive use of denim to be nauseating and while his ability to fall in the lines of his classic Ferré style with modern lines and luxury. This collection went a little to far out there in terms of grabbing new clientèle from younger generations.

View the complete collection at gianfrancoferre.com

[images via gianfrancoferre.com ]