For the design team at G-Star, the G-Star man is very strict with an edgy side to him. This aesthetic is combined with a long series of dark looks that move from biker modern to denim crazy. Each look gave us everything from strong outerwear pieces to great knit pieces. The opening section moved between two groupings, from all black looks to all denim. One of the top pieces in this section is a tailored black leather bomber jacket. A lot of the pants in the opening of the collection are tapered but design team did keep to a skinny leg pant for most of the collection. Another great outerwear piece in the opening section is a tailored navy blue jacket. The body of the jacket has a trench coat silhouette while the details are more military inspired.

The only non-black or gray pieces in the collection were in the middle of the collection. Those pieces actually made it to my top pick list. For the second section of the collection, they choose to do several denim looks. The stiffness of the fabric added great lines on the pieces. The looks were to out there to fit into the street chic look that G-Star was creating. Another crazy mix was the Edwardian style jackets and coats in the close of the collection. The must have pieces from the collection are the only two white pieces in the collection. First is the white linen vest that is double-faced with denim. The must have piece is the oversized bleached white denim overcoat with a wide lapel and collar. It was a little discerning that many New York designers lean towards the dark darker palettes for Fall/Winter. They tend to forget there is another side of the equator. What G-Star lacks is light in the collection, whether it is white period or some sort of color.

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Kim Jones opened his Fall/Winter collection in the new color trend this season, a lot of black, gray and white. For the second he used more blue, my favorite is his aqua blue pieces but then showed last season techno blue. One of the strongest pieces in the opening section is the color blocked jersey jacket. The jacket is done in a indigo blue and white jersey thick knit fabric. For the second section Jones adds more outerwear pieces. I was not a fan of the Barney Fief hats or the faux fur ball caps. On a positive note Jones did keep the pant leg this season tailored straight. Another great outerwear pieces in the second section is one of the most silly pieces in the collection. A black wool jumpsuit but Jones played with the classic jumpsuit and keeps the pant leg and sleeve short. The collar and opening as well as the sleeve and short cuff are lined in black faux fur. Yes it’s a silly piece but its playful and more importantly it unique and could be a great editorial piece.

The closing section is a move back to a dark color palette of black and navy blue. The strongest pieces from the collection are the outerwear pieces. One of the strongest pieces from the closing section is a black wool jacket. The sleeve and body of jacket is tailored with volume and the opening of the jacket is offset. A modern piece but Jones makes a statement by keeping the number of buttons limited and its mix between modern and volume make a statement. The must have piece from the collection is one of the unique pieces in the color. An all white look which Jones shows a white wool overcoat cropped bellow the waist. A modern piece but certainly a strong statement that dark sophistication and colorful sportswear do have a gray area. A lot of the pieces are oversized but Jones focused on color blocking them and heavy textured fabrics to tone down the volume. Some of the looks in the collection were just a little too bulky. Overall Jones gave us several strong pieces, not to mention great pants for Fall/Winter. Bravo Monsieur Jones!

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A modern twist on the New York nightlife with an emphasis on darkness and a sleek silhouette. Designer Erik Hart’s Fall/Winter collection really looks away from the colorfulness of life and towards seriousness. He takes on this season’s big trend of heavy outerwear. He keeps the sleeves of the coats and jackets very tailored to the arm. Hart also choose to show a lot of hats and gloves in the collection. He unfortunately keeps the pants tapered to the leg. One of the standout pieces in the opening section is a below the waist military coat done in a black brushed wool fabric. Another favorite look is the black thinly knit tank worn over a collarless short sleeve shirt. There were we no strong suit looks in the collection. Instead Hart focused on his outerwear and knit pieces.

The must have pieces from the collection are two dark pieces. First is the dark charcoal gray brushed-wool bomber jacket with the ribbed elastic done in black. The other must have piece is the dark charcoal cashmere/wool knit cardigan. The cardigan has a wide collar that drapes on the pieces and the front is done with a double-breasted style. The mens collection is certainly stronger compared to the womens. Almost every look had a strong piece incorporated into it. The focus is on a cleaner well-tailored look. There was no obvious definition from section to section, although the designer pointed out key images. The whole mens line really just melted into one modern Euro meets New York. Bravo Monsieur Hart!

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This season Adam Kimmel opted for a studio photo shoot over a runway show. Why? He wanted to give the collection a personality by having his artist and writer friends replace the models. The result is a heavy and rich collection of playful and wearable looks. The collection is a toy between the 40’s worker and 50’s dapper gentleman who lives on a starving artist budget. The fabrics give the looks a modern look and feel. The first section of looks is a little more dressed up. The suits are not overly tailored simple in the design. One of the standout looks in this section is a black wool double-breasted suit. Not to mention the indigo blue wool jump suit or astronaut suit shown with the black suit. Silly I know but adorable.

The must have piece from the collection are the outerwear pieces. If you end finding them, jump at it. First is the black-brushed wool long overcoat worn over a brown version of the same overcoat. The other must have piece is the creamy white leather jacket worn with a straight tailored leg wool pant. The collection as a whole is really beautiful, even the few womens pieces he showed. Overall Kimmel kept to a well-tailored and well style look. The looks are not overworked or over-thought. The bottom line is the creative mind of Adam Kimmel is priceless. Bravo Monsieur Kimmel!

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At the studio showing for Tim Hamilton’s Fall/Winter collection several editors were disappointed in the small selection of looks. Interesting enough I was delighted we didn’t see repetitive pieces in different colors. One of the interesting details that Hamilton added pins on the jackets and shirts. The only misses I found in the collection were the puff parkas and the techno blue pieces. Hamilton used several prints and plaids. The key pieces in the collection are the outerwear pieces and the knit pieces. Some of the best knit-looks were layered. Like the olive green knit vest worn under a brown wool blazer. Another great look was blue ribbed knit cardigan worn over a white dress shirt. Minus the rolled up denim pant!

Boots are on the rise, a lot of the models looks were shown with a boot. The only downside is that Hamilton styled a few looks with the boot tucked into the boot, another bad trend from Paris. The amount of layering in the collection is very subtle, you don’t realize it until you step back. My favorite accessory was the silk ascots and neck-scarves. The must have look from the collection is layered look. A military green treated canvas jacket worn over a gray wool vest. To top the look off Hamilton choose a dark olive-green canvas pant, the fabric has been treated to give it a matted texture. I would like to have more leather pieces from Hamilton this season, especially in some of the rich greens and browns tones. Overall Hamilton presented some great wardrobe pieces for the All American Gentleman.

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For the opening section at Perry Ellis, designer Joe Crocco bundled up but opted to shy away from a bulky silhouette. The color palette is natural tones white and brown. He also focused on a less tailored mens look but not too relaxed. One of the great combinations was his pairing of knit pieces with heavy fabric pieces. One of the standout looks in the opening section is a brown heavy cotton jacket that is loosely tailored and is almost reminiscent of a safari jacket. A maroon cashmere turtleneck and a pair of white wool pants with a baggy leg complete the looks. In the second section the pieces are more tailored but Crocco continues to keep the looks more relaxed. The pants are a key to keeping the look relaxed. Crocco chose to keep the pants tailored straight or looser to the leg but not to baggy. One of the standout looks in this section is an off-white straight leg pant worn with a white wool long overcoat and brown ribbed knit sweater.

Some of the key pieces in the collection are the knits. From the chunky cashmere cable knit sweater that opened the show to the heavy goat wool cardigan. One of the standout knit pieces is a white cashmere turtleneck sweater with tan horizontal stripes on the body and sleeves. The look is completed with loosely tailored tweed pant. There is a lot of classic American sportswear looks in the collection, from the leather elbow pads on a safari jacket to the plaid overcoats and matching pants. There were a few leather pieces in the collection but Crocco certainly have done more. One of the standout leather pieces is caramel brown leather jacket. The leather has been brushed to a sheen and treated, the shiny texture of the leather paired with a tweed paint is a great combination.

For Fall/Winter Crocco choose to show no evening section and no suit section. The emphasis this season is on a complete collection of every day pieces. The must have looks are two looks that were shown with a tailored straight brown wool slack. The first look is a brown wool slack worn with a 50’s style sports jacket done in canvas style wool fabrics with striped elastic waistband and sleeve cuffs. The other must have looks is a cuffed brown brushed wool pant worn with a heavy brown tweed jacket and a collared cashmere sweater. This season Joe Crocco has gone back to classic Perry Ellis sportswear looks and gives us a wearable and sellable collection. The end result is a genius collection that does not fall victim to the trends that carry over from Paris and Milan. Bravo Monsieur Crocco!

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The studio showing of his Gilded Age collection was very quick and simple in statement. So many designers are inspired by the whole imagery of Edith Wharton’s tales of the Gilded Age and the designs of such couturiers as Charles Fredric Worth. Designs typically worn by the tsars and aristocrats of the Gilded Age. Many forget that only 1% of the population lived this lifestyle. The other 99% were the pioneers of the whole America sportswear and leisurewear of the future. The design team at Gilded Age looked to the workingman and classic pieces that exist today. Like the denim pant even the utility jackets and vests. The looks incorporated several strong trends this season, from the heavy outerwear to a loosely tailored pant. One of the standout pieces in the opening looks is a knee-length black wool overcoat with a trench coat style collar and lapel.

Knit pieces are another strong statement they showed for Fall/Winter. The denim pants were distressed, while the wool pants were kept clean and not too tailored. The second section was a series of tailored pieces from the double-breasted p-coats to a blazer. The only miss found in the collection is how they tucked all of the pants into boots. The must have piece from the collection is cropped navy blue double-breasted p-coat that is closely tailored to the torso. I love how the buttons run all the way up to the collar of the jacket. Gilded Age’s Fall/Winter is full of great outerwear pieces. Although, I would like to have seen a few leather pieces in the collection. Overall the collection has a statement and presence. Bravo Gilded Age!

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Dries does 80’s Versace! From the classic Versace prints on silks to the boxy oversized shape outerwear. Although Van Noten looks in the direction of Prada for his pants, stirrup pants and synthetic tapered elastic pants. He makes sure the complete look fits the deconstructed Van Noten vision. The opening section is full of color, splashed here and there. One of the standout pieces in the opening section is the heavy gray cashmere/wool blend sweater with a contrast brocade print in yellow covering the sweater. In the second section Van Noten does a lot of black. With outerwear being the big trend pieces of the season, Van Noten presented several top contenders. One of the best pieces in this section is the brushed black wool cropped p-coat. The lapel of the jacket is lined with black silk satin and body of the jacket is tailored loose in an almost A-line silhouette.

In the third section kept the color palette dark with more grays and blacks. Van Noten key look in this section is a sexier evening look that molds skimpiness with street chic. One of the standout pieces in this section is a matching full leg pant and vest done in a gray silk/nylon taffeta fabric. Then he gave the evening an edgier look by taking classic dinner and tuxedo jackets and doing them in metallic satin fabrics and adding sheer knit pieces. One of the standout looks in this section was a double-breasted gray silk satin jacket worn with a dark gray sheer top and tapered black tuxedo pant.

The key pieces of the collection are the pieces. While some of the outrageously inspired Versace pieces were over the top. The knit pieces certainly are a nod to classic Van Noten. The first must have piece of the collection is one of Van Noten’s heavy overcoats. The coat is tailored wide in the body and the sleeve with a wide lapel and collar. The other must have piece from the collection is the three-weave cardigan. The cardigan sleeves and collar are done in a ribbed weave, while the body of the cardigan is pieced in a striped pattern. The strips alternate between a classic weave in orange heather yarn and a sheer dark gray knit. Several editors commented post show, “who designed this collection? Not Van Noten!” while the Versace inspiration was a little overboard a lot of the key pieces from the collection really do fit the whole Van Noten aesthetic. I would like to have seen more leather in the collection but I was excited to see Van Noten veer away from last seasons trends.

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Peter Petrovi’s Fall/Winter color palette is monochromatic, shifting from shades of blue to black and white. He repeated last season techno blue and is stuck on the whole skinny leg pant. The highlight of the collection is Petrovi’s prints in the first and second section. One of the standout print pieces is one of the knit from the second section. A geometric design sweater that incorporates several flags around the world, like the American, Israeli and Iraqi flags! In the second section Petrovi started show some strong outerwear pieces. Although a lot of the pieces really do not carry a similar theme throughout the collection, several really exhibit Petrovi style. One of the standout pieces combines another big trend this season, knitwear, a navy blue collarless knit cardigan.

The must have piece is another of Petrovi’s knit cardigans. This cardigan a thick navy blue ribbed knit cardigan with a rolled collar. The look Petrovi showed in this collection can easily be mistaken for a true `street chic look. Petrovi’s styling of the collection is very mainstream and several pieces throughout the collection are a nod to America Sportswear. Although the bold prints on shirts and jacket are taken from the looks we see on the streets of Paris right now.

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Slimane’s inspiration for the season was commented as early Pete Dohrety. My first impression was more the department store nomads in the “Night of the Comet” movie. Sadly Slimane seems to think the whole pant tucked into a boot look is they key trend for the season, please “No”! The opening section jumps right back to Slimane’s skinny look. Although, it’s not skin tight on the models, the clothes are a little loose but the silhouette is still tailored straight to the body. Sadly a lot of the pants shown in the collection are still tapered to the leg. Hedi opened with a series of black looks but then slowly moved into earth tones. One of the standout pieces in the section is the double-breasted khaki trench coat. The coat is knee length, tailored straight on the torso and has a slight flare around the thigh. For the second section Slimane shifts the silhouette into a volume look with his heavy outerwear pieces. He also adds leather pieces to the collection. The standout combination in this section is the black biker vest worn over a black collarless cashmere cardigan and a gray tweed knee-length vest.

In the third section Slimane adds more color but also focus on key pieces in all black. Leather is the fabric of choice in this section and Slimane gave some key leather looks for the season. One of the strongest leather pieces of the collection is a caramel colored suede jacket. The jacket is lined with rich caramel colored faux fur on the inside and on the lapel and collar. The jacket is detailed with patent leather strap on the body of the jacket and the sleeves. Another strong piece in this section cropped double-breasted p-coat in black leather. Slimane tailors the sleeves tight and the lapels and collar are draped like a trench coat. The only miss in this section were the sequined pieces. The closing section is punk'd up with graphic tees embellished with sequins.

The two must have pieces from the collection are two of this season big trend pieces. First is the brown checked print cropped overcoat. The coat is tailored is a a-line silhouette giving the coat a heavy look. Slimane does loosen the sleeve a little but is still tailored close to the arm. The other must piece is the black collar-less biker jacket. This season Hedi Slimane took the whole heavy outerwear trend to heart but kept tailored. His ability to take a little step out of his norm or safe zone is certainly evident in this collection. The collection as a whole has a number of classic Slimane pieces, several pieces open a new door for Slimane. Bravo Monsieur Slimane!

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Nicolas Ghesquière’s Fall/Winter collection for Balenciaga tackles the American Sportswear and splits it into two. From the classic khaki’s modern urban housewife and the chic street punk. There were a few of last season trend recycled like the argyle and stained denim pants. The opening section incorporated a lot of this season big trends, from an abundant number of knit piece to heavy outerwear pieces. The knit pieces had a almost collegiate look to them. One of the top looks in the opening section was a v-neck blue argyle sweater worn with bleach splatter denim pant. All of the looks in the collection were shown with a cap and gloves. The second section really fell into a collegiate look but the knit pieces shifted into a modern deconstructed look. The jackets and vests in this section became very tailored and strong. One of the standout pieces in this section is a black wool bomber jacket worn with a gray vest and a straight leg khaki pant.

The closing section was very small this season, a few outerwear pieces but the emphasis is on a bundled look for Fall. The must have pieces from the collection are two young and playful pieces form the collection. First is the black cashmere/angora sweater, the bottom half of sleeves and body of the sweater is done in sheer net weave. In contrast the top half is a tight knit but the softness really tones down the modern look. The must have piece from the collection is paid of the bleached black denim pants. While the collection is very small, I was eager to see more. Last season we saw more of a modern look from Ghesquiere, this season he tones down the modern side and pump up the youthful edge to the collection. While the forward vision is absent, the collection is safe but still edgy for the Balenciaga customer. A lot of classic pieces to build off of, at the same time enough unique pieces to really give the client a new look to build off of. Bravo Monsieur Ghesquiere!

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Sheer knits and layer the key trends for designer Seiichiro Shimamura”s fall collection for 0044. The opening section was a series of looks in a neutral palette with black added to several looks. One the overlooked accessory this season is the mens scarf. Shimamura showed several look with scarves both heavy and light around the neck. In the second section Shimamura focused on the layering and incorporated several strong outerwear pieces. Another key piece from the collection are the heavy knit cardigans. One of the standout looks in this section is a heather gray knit cardigan with a rolled collar. The bottom of cardigan is short is the front and long in the back. The look is finished with brown low-neck jersey shirt and skinny leg print pant. The front of the jersey shirt is detailed with crisscross strips of jersey.

The evening section of the collection was bundled up with scarves, fingerless gloves and done in black. A lot of the pants through out the collection have a skinny or tapered leg. The only print Shimamura showed in the collection is a feather print done in camouflage style and colors. The must have pieces from the collection are the heather style knit pieces. The must have look is a collared long gray knit cardigan worn under a black jersey waist length hooded jacket. To top the look off Seiichiro adds a matching gray heather knit scarf and a black low-neckline jersey shirt. The overall look of the collection is a traveler, with models bundled up with outerwear pieces and scarf’s. Missing from the collection is one leather pieces although Shimamura did show some leather strap detailing on the opening looks. While I loved the layering, the powerful imagery of street chic almost drowned out the collection. The look could be more complete if Shimamura choose to move away from the skinny leg pant. A fuller leg pant would really make the looks pop out.

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Italian tailoring with rich Parisian fabrics and textures, in short that’s what Francisco Smalto’s Fall/Winter collection embodies. The opening section is a business mans look reworked with the proportions changed. One visual is the heavy outerwear pieces, a big trend this season. My favorite piece in the opening section is the cropped tweed trench coat. Smalto kept the classic tailoring but the tweed fabric gives the coat an earthy modern look. There was very little color in opening section and Smalto showed several jackets in a Edwardian style with tails. Moving into the second section Smalto plays with layering and the length of the outerwear pieces. He focused on a longer length compared to the shorted pieces we’ve seen during Paris Fashion Week. One of the standout looks that played with layering of strong piece is the double jacket look. A cropped black wool p-coat worn over a black leather bomber jacket. To finish off the look is one of the best-knit pieces Smalto showed. A black and gray argyle sweater, the lines are fuzzy like they were airbrushed.

The closing section is all black, from satin and velvet jackets to the pleated front silk crepe black pants with a straight leg. The must have looks from the collection are two of Smalto’s dressed up looks. Fist is the blue/gray pinstriped day suit. The other must have look is the black dress shirt and straight leg pant look worn with a halter-top vest. Smalto’s collection is very sophisticated but the richness of the black and gray looks really move it away from the structured looks we see in Milan. Bravo Monsieur Smalto!

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Glossy, glossy, glossy, the look for Fall/Winter at Gaultier is sexy coiffed man. The decadent male image is taken from the 80’s and 70’s. The look is BIG hair and masculine sideburns or chops. The richness of the models hair and look is translated into the rich color palette and fabrics Gaultier choose for Fall. The opening section start with dark shades of brown and rust mixed into basic black looks. The detailed pieces in this section are the rich brown gloves and boots. Outerwear pieces are closely tailored while the pants are tailored with a straight leg. One of the standout looks in this section is an all leather look. A matching brown leather jacket and pant. The bottom of the pant is attached to classic brown suede combination cowboy boot. The sleeves of the jacket continue this idea with the embroidered boot leather used to finish the bottom of the boot. For the second section we see more knit pieces added into the collection as well as more leather pieces. The knits and fabrics are done with an Indian design following the whole American west theme.

The third section has Gaultier moving back to an all black color palette with shots of color like green. A lot of the pants in the collection are tapered to the leg and there were a few of last season velvet pants and jackets. The closing section is a move back to browns and then to black and gold. The big miss of the collection is the spandex pant for men. I know several designers have shown this pant over the season but it’s a trend that does not need to come alive. The must have pieces from the collection are two outerwear pieces. First is the tailored flat to the body camel coat. The wool is finely brushed to a softness, the collar cropped and lined with leather and the look is topped with a matching leather glove. The must have look is the evening version of the cowboy boot buff jacket. The jacket is a tailored silk/wool evening jacket with a slim lapel and mow collar. The sleeve cuffs are finished with the cowboy boot leather. Jean Paul Gaultier is the master of presenting a modern day collection for today. Every so often he does take themes a little too seriously but the usual result if great pieces for editorial. This season Gaultier outerwear pieces are the shinning stars for Fall/Winter.

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Japanese ‘Shogun’ meets Mad Max meets Akira!! For the opening section John Galliano showed several poncho looks leading into a series of bomber jackets. Then slowly Galliano added shifted into several driving jacket looks. The pants are military and cargo's inspired and move from a tapered leg to straight leg. The jackets got heavier and heavier and the looks became more layered moving into the second section. One of the standout pieces in the opening section is the earthy brown distressed leather overcoat. Another great outerwear piece from this section is the heavily detailed distressed bomber jacket worn with a pair of gray studded leather pant with a baggy leg. The jacket is detailed with embroidery and pieced together with two different leathers.

The second section moved away from the desert palette of color into a darker palette of blacks and grays. The pant also shifted away from the tapered leg and into heavy pant leg. In the third section Galliano sent the models down the runway with their faces covered with nylon and a clown face painted onto the nylon. An image from the Rob Zombie movies then the look shifted into a Star Wars “sand people” look. One of best looks out of this section is the gray treated cotton suit. The pant and jacket were both embroidered with a silver design and texture with paint. Another great piece in this section is the distressed brown leather suit vest.

The must have piece from the collection are from the third section. First is the black sheer knit sweater with the knit draped in strips on the torso. The must have piece is the silk-screened Galliano and Bull print on a gray jersey top. Galliano showed several silk-screen prints through out the collection. The closing section of the collection was a series of male models wearing Galliano boxer and briefs and silly dreadlocks style headpieces and wraps. Several praised Galliano’s recent Dior collection as one of his best, the truth, its been done and its been reworked. I can say the same for this collection. While the whole vision and styling of the collection is modern the looks are classic rebel Galliano. Just different fabrics, screen-prints and imagery. The collection is most certainly a safe one, I would like to have seen Galliano tone it down and really focus on the tailoring of the jackets and playing with more synthetic fabrics. One plus is there are a lot of leather pieces in this collection.

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Sonia Rykiel and her daughter Nathalie Rykiel are focused this season on a well-dressed client rather than a more fashion forward vision. While a vast majority of the collection is a lot of dark pieces, Rykiel still keeps her use of bold colors. The opening section is a series of knit looks, everything from stripes in classic Rykiel colors. Absent is a fluid look or statement. The knit pieces are bigger and bulkier this season. Another change is Rykiel showed several tapered leg pants as well as a few full leg pants. One of the standout knit pieces in the opening section is a chunky white cable-knit cashmere over-coat. Another great outerwear piece form the opening section is the black collegiate overcoat with a fur collar.

The second section was a lot darker, heavy coats and emphasis on more prints. The star sweaters and shirts were a nod to Victor & Rolf’s dance collection last season. Another repeat that Rykiel used was the techno blue but she did introduce a new color, techno purple! Two key pieces in the second section use this color and both done in leather. First is the full-leg techno purple pant done in suede. The pant is worn with a black and gray striped sweater. The other key piece is the techno purple suede blazer. I am in love with this new color, its vibrant and alive!