With my Paris Menswear review all posted, it time to start posting Men & Womenswear in New York..........More Plaid and More Velvet....Yeah, Not!

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So first I have to begin my review of the Dior Homme collection with a little first impression in the opening section. Someone on Hedi Slimane’s production has a obvious ear fetish. Practically every male model had big ears; we are talking about “Dumbo” ears. For Fall/Winter Dior kept with his philosophy that black looks great on everyone.

In the opening section Slimane showed a new Dior evening trench coat. A dark charcoal gray wool that has been tailored into section. The front lapel of the coat have been cut into straps the bottom onto the opposing side, leaving a wide opening in the front of the coat. The innovation that reminds me of the late Stephen Sprouse. Slimane’s suits for Fall/Winter have taken on a familiar and new shape. The designer kept with the tapered pant leg and focused his energy the tailoring the shoulders and the back close to the model. At first glance the suit shape looks like an arch, with the pant tapered at the ankle and the jacket tight in the shoulders.

Inspirations have certainly been familiar from collection to collection, from Milan to Paris. This season Slimane continues to focus on his own inspirations and individuality. Obvious inspirations are Austria, French nautical and the opera. I love the collarless Austrian inspired jacket in gray wool with black wool trim. Slimane only dabbled with the nautical them by showing a few collarbone neck long sleeve shirts. And the Slimane black wool sailor pant, with a baggy leg and gray wool striping running around the front of the pant. Creating a picture frame image on the pant.

The highlight of the opening section was Slimane’s black wool pants with a denim waistline. If this sounds familiar, we saw it at Dolce & Gabbana two weeks ago. For the second section Slimane and his design team focused on new black suits and outerwear. Hedi showed his only trendy item of the season, a dark black collegiate coat shown as a evening coat. A great idea! Slimane start shift away from the tapered pant leg and give several chunky tweed and wool pants a full leg.

For close of his Fall collection, Slimane saved the best for last. First he showed remastered version of his beaded Bolero jacket, which he showed last season and is used in his Spring ad campaign. This season he focused on the beading details of the jacket, forming it into a couture piece. Although the Slimane’s black tuxedos don’t change to much from season to season, he makes sure he gets your attention to the details he adds to the look. This season Hedi showed the tuxedos with various versions of black satin and taffeta dress shirts, Toping off these decadent shirts were 2inch black satin ribbon double tied bow ties.

There are two must have pieces of the collection. First is either of Slimane’s dark gray trench coats, the open front trench or the classic Dior trench with the tapered shoulders. Finally there is black taffeta floor length opera coat. The coat is a classic and certainly draws inspiration from Belalogis’s “Dracula”. Hedi Slimane’s focus this season is certainly pinned pointed in the right direction. He crafted yet again, a near flawless collection. Continuing to move the Dior client into new directions and looks. Bravo Monsieur Slimane.

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For Men’s, its French beatnik meets Scottish and Louis XIV classique, For Women its Annie Hall meet Jane Birkin. Jean Paul Gaultier comments in the liner notes that the inspiration for his Fall/Winter collection is 60’s love birds Serge Gainsbourg and Jane Birkin. In short this collection lifted a lot of tired grins and lazy eyebrows. Editors and Buyers as well as many, many male admirers and clients packed into the large space on the Rue Saint Martin for Gaultier’s show. Opening the collection Gaultier showed an oversize burgundy trench coat, which got applause over the client section. I was giving it silent claps in my head.

What was really evident in the first section is that Gaultier focused on making the women’s looks more masculine while them men’s looks were softer and were less tailored like the women’s. The women’s collection had more of a 70's Annie Hal lookl. In the opening section Gaultier showed several men’s outwear pieces. I loved the honey yellow silk taffeta overcoat but didn’t like the silver lame jacket.

From the contemporary pieces, Gaultier moved into classic pieces like the burgundy 18th century ridding cape that he shaped into a trench-cape. Even classic Scottish kilts took on new lengths. Jean Paul showed a handful of ankle-length kilts in different tartans. The last classic piece was the Louis XIV period pants in wool and denim.

Gaultier fell victim to some of this season trends, like leather jacket with shearling trim and velvet suits. Sadly none of those looks really got a second glance. One shearling coat did start a lot of chitchatting around me, the black wool cape covered with panels of long black shearling. Personally I love the piece, a real point high to Gaultier’s collection. The memorable looks were polka dot prints used on scarves, shirts and suits.

The must have pieces of the collection are the waist-length tuxedos or the waist-length black leather jacket with black shearling lining the front of the jacket. Monsieur Gaultier’s Fall/Winter collection is a nod back to his day of building a collection off of many inspirations that have one common theme. Bravo Monsieur Gaultier!

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Last season designer Oswald Boateng got a lot of flack for toning down his Spring collection for the House of Givenchy. This season, Boateng commented that his no longer going to tone down his collections and start adding color to give the Givenchy collection some life. For the opening section Oswald showed a number of looks with tapered leg pant but slowly added more full leg pants. Shift from tweed to wool and even this seasons velvet. In the opening the look was this seasons English classic looks. From the Windsor check suits and pants to the bulky wool and tweed pants paired with contrasting vests. Boateng’s focus this season is certainly on Givenchy outerwear, the main trend for Fall/Winter. His first outerwear look was perfection, a bottle green suede waist length coat. I must have it!

Oswald Boateng does dabble with a few of this season’s trends but he did hope to continue on with some looks we saw last season, Like the baseball sweaters and last seasons “it” color, techno blue! Sadly these looks were not any must haves. One trend that Boateng hit was his velvet blazer and pants in a rich rust color. For the second section he showed more outwear pieces including a full-length gray knit jacket with matching knit scarf.

Although gingham has not traditionally been a Fall/Winter fabric, Oswald really used the fabric in strong looks, which tones down the loud print. He also explored this year’s trend of shearling in a wool tweed overcoat with a heavy shearling color. This coat will certainly be seen around the slopes next season.

The must have pieces at Givenchy are endless. Although I have narrowed it down to two looks. First are the velvet pinstripe jackets in rust or dark hunter green with a matching vest. The second are Boateng’s wool herringbone overcoats. Show in a dark brown and honey brown with a jean or corduroy pant and cardigan.Oswald Boateng has kept his promise; Givenchy has been given a new life. I am sure Monsieur Givenchy is watching the DVD of the show right about now and clapping with excitement. Boateng’s powerful use of color didn’t go overboard. It was near perfect! Bravo Monsieur Boateng!

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Season after season the House of Ungaro has suffered the same fete as other great French houses like Givenchy and Ribanne. The pain of finding talent that can carry out the traditions of the legacy that has already been mapped by their founder. Although history does prove that it takes several years before they can find the one. It took Chanel over 30 years to land Lagerfeld and some houses get lucky right away like Dior with Saint Laurent. Although the great one’s go onto becoming great craftsman's themselves.

For Fall/Winter the house of Ungaro’s chief designer José Lévy focused on creating a new vision for the Ungaro Man. Now Emmanuelle Ungaro never really focused to much energy on crafting his menswear. His focus was to keep with his love of color and prints and his passion of tailoring. Lévy lost focus this season by abandoning all three together. Lévy only showed two prints, a honeycomb print and a Hawaiian contrast print. Which was one of only a few must have pieces in the collection.

In the opening section Lévy concentrated the use of color into monotone looks. But his overall use of color was molded around a dark color pallet. The first color was a dark burgundy then moving into a dark gray. Lévy used the dark burgundy in several looks, too many looks overall! I did like a few of the suits but their overall tailoring was far from the quality or form we’ve come to expect from Ungaro. Lévy’s tailoring seems to be more relaxed, creating an overall messy look on each model. Even Lévy ‘s pants are not cut properly. As the models walked down the runway their packages seemed to shift all over the place. Even in the fabrics did Lévy miss the Ungaro philosophy, using stretch jersey in pants and cotton twill for several blazers.

Over all Lévy did create a bland Ungaro collection, which is like creating a Lacroix collection with out color. In the closing section Lévy really went out on a limb. With no color for two thirds of the collection, he gives us White, Bright Purple and Pink. Sadly the color is wasted on pieces that don’t fit the collection. Like Rizzo’s Hot Pink Ladies Outfit, pink satin jacket and all. I had to put a picture of it up to show everyone. How Awful, I know! The only must have item in the collection were the burgundy tuxedo jackets with beading and embroidery. I am hoping that next season Monsieur Lévy will spend some time in the archives before molding his next collection.

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Designer Paul Smith focuses his Fall/Winters looks on combining the American turn of the century west and English lords of the early 20th century. Smith focused on many of this season trends, from plaids, the west and even using velvet. In the opening section Smith showed only 3 pieces with a green and pale blue plaid. The standout look was a plaid blazer worn with a brown wool vest with orange pinstripe and honey brown corduroy pants.

Smith closed the first section of the collection a number of outerwear pieces. Another big trend this season, but Smith did create several standout shearling coats of the season. My favorite being the orange/brown stained leather overcoat with a honey colored shearling lining inside and on the collar and lapels. Worn with the same dark brown wool suit with orange pin striping, another standout look in this collection.

Although Smith did show some looks with a tapered leg pant. Smith did focus on offering the Paul Smith client a fuller leg pant. In the second section Smith showed more corduroy, on jacket and vest as well as pants. He also showed more knitwear, including this season big trend item, Cardigans. All of the cardigans in the Smith collection are great buy for the season, minus the Navahos print.

The collection then took a turn for the worse. Paul opted to shift into this season’s western trend and go a little overboard with the overall look. Showing small ribbon ties, embroidered checks shirts and boot cut pants. The must have piece from Paul Smith is certainly his light gray wool suit with white contrast stitching on both the jacket and pant. Smith showed both a sellable and wearable collection for his clients. But the Smith didn’t really produce any standout looks that distinguish him from the rest of the pack. Hoping for change in the next season!

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For his fourth collection for Saint Laurent, designer Stefano Pilati really showed how much understands the Saint Laurent philosophy. What is really interesting about this collection is that Pilati not only looked at prior menswear collections but womenswear as well. There are certainly some feminine touches in this collection. Which overall softens the very masculine style of the Saint Laurent eveningwear and sportswear.

In the opening section Pilati bowed to this seasons trend of using plaid. Showing several plaid blazers and overcoats. My favorite was the fur collar overcoat, a classic Saint Laurent tailored coat, which softened by the use of plaid. Pilati continued to more outerwear in the opening section. Shifting from a camel coats and jacket with black/red plaid, paired with matching vests. The must have piece in this section was the bomber jacket covered with faux fur with a leather collar and trim.

Pilati has abandoned the tapered pant we’ve seen for the last 4 seasons. For whole collection he showed a full or baggy leg pant that was either hemmed short or long. Stefano also showed all the pants with a pleated front, adding to the overall baggy leg look, love it. Several designers this season has attempted to incorporate shearling into their outerwear. Pilati showed three near perfect shearling coats. The outside is all leather and the collar and inside is lined with a short hair shearling.

This full figure or tailoring Pilati was focusing on gave the collection a softer look. At the close of the show, Pilati showed an all black cape lined with pink satin. At first I would have expected Katoucha or LouLou De Falaise sashaying under such a striking cape. Instead it was male model, I loved it. The must have piece from the collection is the black cable knit smoking jacket, an homage to Saint Laurent’s le smoking look from the 70’s.

Overall there were only two looks that I didn’t like in this collection. First was the ostrich leather coat with a fur collar. Then there were all the pant cuffs that were tucked into skinny dress boots, which made the models look like chickens. The one look that Pilati used repeatedly and really made a statement was the pairing of a tweed jacket with a wool pants or otherwise. The crowning moment of the collection was Stefano Pilati’s bow at the close of the show. Pilati appeared in tweed and wool combo suit worn with a dark vest and a pink scarf under the jacket. Bravo Monsieur Pilati!

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Racing around Paris can be very dizzying, especially going from one show to the next in one location. The killer is traveling out for just one show, that’s where you car and drive come in handy. For Hermes editors and buyers made there way back to the Couvent des Cordeliers a second time for this week. Earlier in the week Yoji Yamamoto showed at the Couvent des Cordeliers. Don’t worry there is another show there later in the week.

For Fall/Winter 2006 Hermes designer Véronique Nichanian continue the tradition of providing a high-end look for the Hermes clientele. The focus of the collection is certainly to produce high quality pieces that will fit in with the trends of the season. Nichanians’ focus was on this season’s trend of using plaids, velvet and knitwear options. For the opening section Nichanian and her team showed a number of tailored suits with tapered legged pants. I did like the dark brown suit pinstripe suit worn with a bright red satin shirt.

With so much darkness shadowing the Fall/Winter collection, any color is a breath of life. For Fall Nichanian focused on one color to make a statement, RED! She showed red on everything from knitwear, outerwear, shoes and pants. The striking pieces were the candy apple red sweaters and satin print shirts. She also likes to hide red all over the place, like the dark gray wool jacket with red panels on the underarm of the sleeve.

For outerwear Nichanian kept the structure very simple and clean. Shearling is favorite look for some designers this season. At Hermes there were a couple of shearling coats, which did not fit into the overall look of the collection. Véronique did show suede and patent leather bomber jackets in the Candy Apple Red, which will be hot sell items for Hermes.

The must have pieces from this collection also include the cashmere and merino wool cardigans. These two-tone cardigans in all red or black are sophisticated and young. I am also a little nuts over the red velvet pants, yes I know their velvet. This was Véronique Nichanian first collection for Hermes and I must say she put together a very exceptional collection. Bravo Madame Nichanian!

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Ann Demeulemeester has been described by fashion critics as the anti=Rykiel of Parisian fashion. Bringing her style and looks right off the streets of Paris. This seasons Madam Demeulemeester focused her collection on an icon rather than looking to the streets. For Fall/Winter Ann called on her friend and mentor musician Patti Smith and her masculine and morbid rock style. To be honest when the show started and the first two models came walking down the runway, I whispered “Carol Anne, Carol Anne, walk towards the light Carol Anne” – I am sorry my first impression was the eerie preacher from the “Poltergeist” Movies.

In the opening section, Ann was content in showing a number of silver lame pants and blazer, a look we did see in Milan. A look that was done two season’s to go, although when I think lame I don’t think Patti, I think Bowie. The designer chose to show several velvet looks, including a suit, jackets and pants. We all know I am not a big fan of this season Velvet trends but some designers have surprised me.

The second section shed a little hope on a rather weak collection. For knitwear Demeulemeester showed several knit sweaters that stood out in the overall rocker look. I especially loved her oversized black cardigans with a chunky weave knit. Sweaters aside the designer tried to give emphasis on her outerwear. The leather pirate jacket and 70’s leather smoking jacket (very St. Laurent).

The must have piece from this collection was the black leather jacket with a cascading fur collar. The obvious inspiration for this collection in the end is Patti Smith. The singer and songwriter even graced the catwalk modeling a Demeulemeester jacket and clarinet. Smith also walked the designer down the runway after the show. Back to the inspirations taken from this collection, my last two impressions were Blade Runner in the middle of the collection, and Patti Smith meets Jared Leto in the later half of the collection.

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The partnership of high-end designers like Yamamoto and footwear labels like Adidas, have proven to be provocative and a cash cow. This season Yamamoto has produced on his vibrant footwear collections today. From Aqua to Red and Yellow active footwear. For his ready to wear collection for Fall/Winter, Yoji and his design team jump to the other end of the color spectrum. The collection by large is in a dark pallet of black, midnight blue and dark grays.

In the opening section of the collection Yamamoto showed several black evening jackets and overcoats. The tailoring is classic Yamamoto, loose around the bodice with modern details. I loved the black wool blazer with a panel of light gray wool stripping vertically. Military stars and medals is Yamamoto’s accessory for the second section. The look is very militant but up close to fake or superficial for the Yamamoto brand. In this section the designer showed a black trench coat with collar certainly one of my favorite pieces.

For Fall the designer showed very little knitwear, only a handful of pieces made it down the runway. Those select few did make a positive statement for the collection. Like the gray sweaters with tassels trimming the collar. The must have knitwear piece is the floor length knit coat. For Fall Yamamoto and his design team focused on a new shape for men’s pants. Showing a number of wool and cotton dress slacks with a straight or baggy leg. To close out the show the designer took the tuxedo jackets and tailored the length below the waist and focused on leather and cutting embellishments. I loved the black wool overcoat with the basket weave cutouts on the breast and the lapel with horizontal sliver cuts.

The two have pieces of the collection are any of the black wool tuxedo jacket with leather cut into a chain-link, trimming the front of the jacket. The second piece is the dark navy blue suit with a red stitching similar to baseball stitching, on the front and back of the coat. For Fall/Winter Asian designers like Yamamoto as well as Kawakubo & Watanabe have broken down their modernism philosophy and explored the world of fashion a little more this season.

Although some editors have argued that such change is giving into make their lines more commercial, there is more to these collection outside of the obvious changes. Designers like Yamamoto like to challenge themselves by breaking not only social barriers, but also their own craft barriers. Bravo Monsieur Yamamoto!

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Sonia Rykiel goes soft on her classic Parisian menswear collection. Sonia and her design team focus on melting the Parisian gentleman with classic English looks and pieces. In the opening section of the collection Rykiel plasters plaid on everything from knitwear to ties and even pants and suits. She does not use just one plaid print throughout; rather I have counted over 10 so far.

The opening section offered a number of different knitwear looks for the Rykiel client. From her classic Parisian stripes in hot pink/black double-breasted cardigan to a red plaid cardigan worn over a matching sweater vest. In Milan the “it” fabric of choice was velvet, thankfully the use of velvet has been pretty absent in Paris. Rykiel did show a few velvet pieces, like the velvet dress shirt, enough said.

The overall look that Rykiel was going for was a preppy collegiate in a vibrant and dark French pallet. She used plaid practically on everything. The plaid suits were edited to add classic Rykiel colors of canary yellow, French blue and purple. I love the Windsor check tweed pants worn with a cardigan and brown velvet coat. The velvet was distressed so it gave the jacket a more relaxed look. To top of this look model had bottle green leather driving gloves. The same green leather was used on belts and shoes. The bottle green reminds me of the movie “Bright Young Things”.

Sonia Rykiel has always been a quintessential designer in the Paris. For over 30 years she’s has built a fashion house that has defined Parisian style. This season Rykiel’s exploration of molding English style with a French color pallet is a success. The must have piece of the collection are any of Rykiel’s plaid pants or plaid cardigans. Bravo Madame Rykiel!

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Vuitton designer Marc Jacobs’ collection for Fall/Winter is a simple as he could possibly get this season. The designer opted to tone down this collection and focus on a winter feel and look for the Vuitton label. The eye-catching pieces of the collection are certainly all the knitwear and outerwear. In the opening section of the show, Jacobs showed a number faux mink trimmed jackets and coats. Most of the jackets looked to decadent for the ski holiday collection. I did like the bomber jacket with a chinchilla collar.

Jacobs moved away from the use of fur and into more clean looks. Like the navy blue overcoats and p-coats with leather trim or triangles hold straps onto the jackets. The big trend coat this season is a certainly waist length collegiate coat. Jacobs showed black wool version of the collegiate coat, very classic looking but the black makes the overall look of the model more modern. I did not like the down filled bomber vests and jackets, a trend we can do without this season.

The Vuitton knitwear options are very slim. The designer only showed handful of knit pieces in this show. Varying from crew neck to turtle neck sweaters. The must have piece of the collection was the diamond design sweater in brown and white. For Fall/Winter Jacobs vision of a very dark collection is a modern look for the house Vuitton. Jacobs built of the dark pallet to create man looks for Vuitton to play with in the winter months. For Vuitton client this means the options are very slim. The must have item from this collection are the red & yellow arrow cashmere fabric covered bags and luggage.

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Designer Kris Van Assche for his Fall/Winter collection focused on giving his clients option to clean and tailored collection. For this collection Kris and his design team threw out the regular tapered leg pant. Opting this season to give his clients a full leg pant that is tapered at the knee. Giving the models more shape in the leg. This is a good thing for guys like me who have skinny knees and have a fuller calf and thigh.

With outerwear the big trend this season in Paris. Van Assche followed suit only slights. His focus was creating modern suits with clean lines. Showing a number of suits in wool and tweed. In the opening section he showed a number two tone suits with dark green jacket paired with a brown tweed pant. He also showed a number of solid color suits in black/gray/navy blue high sheen wool fabrics.

In the second section of the collection the designer showed a number of black and white pieces that didn’t fit into the overall look of the collection. Then Van Assche started to show a number of knitwear looks. From turtleneck and crew neck sweater, I liked the black and gray stripe shawl and sweaters. There was only one cardigan in the collection, a dark brown wool cardigan.

In the second half of the collection the designer seemed to loose focus of his vision of the collection. Van Assche showed cargo pants worn with dress blazers and dress shirts over sweaters. The must have piece from this collection is the gray tweed collegiate overcoat with black leather trim. Although this collection was very decadent and dark, there are a number of sellable looks, but the selection is very small.

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Junya Watanabe raided the U.S. Vietnam Surplus storage locker for her Fall/Winter collection. An obvious inspiration for the collection was Robert DeNiro in “Taxi Driver” as well as Army Veterans. Watanabe mixed classic military fabrics with rich English tweed and wools. The Watanabe showed several pants with tapered leg but the main looks focused on a fuller or straight leg pant.

Watanabe focused her energy this season on her outwear and knitwear, the two big trends of the season for menswear. Junya and her design team took classic army trench coats and jacket and reconstructed them and added new fabrics. An army green soldier’s cotton blazer was tailored with a green tweed 12-inch panel to make the jacket hip-length. Watanabe also showed a dark green tweed suit with army green contrasting pockets, as well as a gray/blue tweed version.

I was not impressed with brown stripe pants with the matching jacket and camouflage pockets. The standout outerwear piece of the collection is the green tweed jacket with orange pin stripes. The jacket was loosely tailored and the contrasting elbow patches were moved forward on the sleeve.

Watanabe showed very little knitwear this season. Most of the pieces shown were done in monotone color pallet of brown or black. The must have knitwear piece is certainly the brown fishing net weave sweater. At the close of the show Watanabe showed a number of Aviator jacket and coats with faux fur trim. The jackets had no real stand out look from what you can buy down at a surplus store here in the states.

Over Junya Watananbe’s collection for Fall/Winter is a step out of her classic modern deconstruction philosophy. She did keep to one trend this season show a large number of outerwear pieces. She didn’t bow to other trends like the use of velvet or offering a large knitwear selection. Although I like the overlook Watanabe was creating, the collection was lacking the modern look synonymous with Watanabe.

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Hasidic Jews, Rasputin’s Monks or Gothic Punks. John Galliano was all over the place with his menswear collection for Fall/Winter 2006. But in the end the entire show pulled together into one theme. While most critics and buyers were screaming Metropolis was evident muse for this collection. I beg to differ, as always, Terry Gilliam’s “Time Bandits” was more of an inspiration in this collection.

Galliano opened the show with a number of unique black over coats with embroidery and military themes. I am not even drawing the military them from the helmets the models wore. One jacket in particular was crowning piece of the opening section, a sheer black twill overcoat with white embroidery on the bodice of the jacket. The bottom half of the overcoat was made of sheer fabric and hemmed with a thick band of black wool. You could see the models bare legs through the coat.

The collection began to shift into a World War 1 look. Galliano focused on using military blue and aviator green in his color pallet. The jackets were deconstructed and laced with decadent fabrics. For his pants, Galliano kept to the tapered leg style this season. He showed a number of denim pants with a bleach print, but they were too tight to the leg. John did show a few full leg pants this season. I loved the tweed pants with black leather panel inserts.

For Fall/Winter Galliano did not show a large number of knitwear pieces. Although what he did present were near perfect, like the silk muscle tone weave cable knit sweater. Or the full length gray knit overcoat, which looked very heavy but it seemed to just move with the model. Although Galliano did dabble with this season trend fabric of velvet, he used very little. Thank you! Galliano did start a new trend this season showing a number of t-shirts, and long sleeve cotton shirts with silk screens of a wolf print, a Toulouse Lautrec artwork print and most importantly a print of his face and logo name. Who wouldn’t love to have Galliano’s gorgeous face on their chest?

John took a great interest in working with his outerwear this season. Take note of the brown tweed jacket with wide lapel and dark brown wool bands around the jacket hem and sleeve cuffs. Also I loved the white and black wool blanket jacket and matching scarf. Galliano did show a number of accessories in the collection. Stand out pieces include the Toulouse Lautrec print bags and the fingerless knit gloves.

In the close of the show, Galliano had some fun by showing his collection backwards and made the focus on undergarments. He showed a number of cotton boxers and pajama bottoms with red/blue or green/yellow stripes. The underwear and pajamas will be a big sell for Galliano next fall.

The must have pieces from this collection include the full-length brown leather coat with pale orange shearling lining and trim. The other is the army green jacket with red silk brocade fabric lining and lapels. Overall Galliano’s crazy show is very wearable and sellable. The whole “Time Bandit” look is modern and classic. Bravo Monsieur Galliano!

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At Issey Miyake the vision for Fall is more color but the colors are too far into the 80’s for this season. Designer Naoki Takizawa opened his collection Fall/Winter with very masculine, modern tailored suits. The suits had almost a Mugler look to them, but Takizawa gave them a modern twist of adding gray/neon blue/black leather panels in the shoulder of the jacket and along the lapels and cuffs. The panels are like slivers on the suit, so they do not overpower the overall look.