With my Paris Menswear review all posted, it time to start posting Men & Womenswear in New York..........More Plaid and More Velvet....Yeah, Not!

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So first I have to begin my review of the Dior Homme collection with a little first impression in the opening section. Someone on Hedi Slimane’s production has a obvious ear fetish. Practically every male model had big ears; we are talking about “Dumbo” ears. For Fall/Winter Dior kept with his philosophy that black looks great on everyone.

In the opening section Slimane showed a new Dior evening trench coat. A dark charcoal gray wool that has been tailored into section. The front lapel of the coat have been cut into straps the bottom onto the opposing side, leaving a wide opening in the front of the coat. The innovation that reminds me of the late Stephen Sprouse. Slimane’s suits for Fall/Winter have taken on a familiar and new shape. The designer kept with the tapered pant leg and focused his energy the tailoring the shoulders and the back close to the model. At first glance the suit shape looks like an arch, with the pant tapered at the ankle and the jacket tight in the shoulders.

Inspirations have certainly been familiar from collection to collection, from Milan to Paris. This season Slimane continues to focus on his own inspirations and individuality. Obvious inspirations are Austria, French nautical and the opera. I love the collarless Austrian inspired jacket in gray wool with black wool trim. Slimane only dabbled with the nautical them by showing a few collarbone neck long sleeve shirts. And the Slimane black wool sailor pant, with a baggy leg and gray wool striping running around the front of the pant. Creating a picture frame image on the pant.

The highlight of the opening section was Slimane’s black wool pants with a denim waistline. If this sounds familiar, we saw it at Dolce & Gabbana two weeks ago. For the second section Slimane and his design team focused on new black suits and outerwear. Hedi showed his only trendy item of the season, a dark black collegiate coat shown as a evening coat. A great idea! Slimane start shift away from the tapered pant leg and give several chunky tweed and wool pants a full leg.

For close of his Fall collection, Slimane saved the best for last. First he showed remastered version of his beaded Bolero jacket, which he showed last season and is used in his Spring ad campaign. This season he focused on the beading details of the jacket, forming it into a couture piece. Although the Slimane’s black tuxedos don’t change to much from season to season, he makes sure he gets your attention to the details he adds to the look. This season Hedi showed the tuxedos with various versions of black satin and taffeta dress shirts, Toping off these decadent shirts were 2inch black satin ribbon double tied bow ties.

There are two must have pieces of the collection. First is either of Slimane’s dark gray trench coats, the open front trench or the classic Dior trench with the tapered shoulders. Finally there is black taffeta floor length opera coat. The coat is a classic and certainly draws inspiration from Belalogis’s “Dracula”. Hedi Slimane’s focus this season is certainly pinned pointed in the right direction. He crafted yet again, a near flawless collection. Continuing to move the Dior client into new directions and looks. Bravo Monsieur Slimane.

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For Men’s, its French beatnik meets Scottish and Louis XIV classique, For Women its Annie Hall meet Jane Birkin. Jean Paul Gaultier comments in the liner notes that the inspiration for his Fall/Winter collection is 60’s love birds Serge Gainsbourg and Jane Birkin. In short this collection lifted a lot of tired grins and lazy eyebrows. Editors and Buyers as well as many, many male admirers and clients packed into the large space on the Rue Saint Martin for Gaultier’s show. Opening the collection Gaultier showed an oversize burgundy trench coat, which got applause over the client section. I was giving it silent claps in my head.

What was really evident in the first section is that Gaultier focused on making the women’s looks more masculine while them men’s looks were softer and were less tailored like the women’s. The women’s collection had more of a 70's Annie Hal lookl. In the opening section Gaultier showed several men’s outwear pieces. I loved the honey yellow silk taffeta overcoat but didn’t like the silver lame jacket.

From the contemporary pieces, Gaultier moved into classic pieces like the burgundy 18th century ridding cape that he shaped into a trench-cape. Even classic Scottish kilts took on new lengths. Jean Paul showed a handful of ankle-length kilts in different tartans. The last classic piece was the Louis XIV period pants in wool and denim.

Gaultier fell victim to some of this season trends, like leather jacket with shearling trim and velvet suits. Sadly none of those looks really got a second glance. One shearling coat did start a lot of chitchatting around me, the black wool cape covered with panels of long black shearling. Personally I love the piece, a real point high to Gaultier’s collection. The memorable looks were polka dot prints used on scarves, shirts and suits.

The must have pieces of the collection are the waist-length tuxedos or the waist-length black leather jacket with black shearling lining the front of the jacket. Monsieur Gaultier’s Fall/Winter collection is a nod back to his day of building a collection off of many inspirations that have one common theme. Bravo Monsieur Gaultier!

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Last season designer Oswald Boateng got a lot of flack for toning down his Spring collection for the House of Givenchy. This season, Boateng commented that his no longer going to tone down his collections and start adding color to give the Givenchy collection some life. For the opening section Oswald showed a number of looks with tapered leg pant but slowly added more full leg pants. Shift from tweed to wool and even this seasons velvet. In the opening the look was this seasons English classic looks. From the Windsor check suits and pants to the bulky wool and tweed pants paired with contrasting vests. Boateng’s focus this season is certainly on Givenchy outerwear, the main trend for Fall/Winter. His first outerwear look was perfection, a bottle green suede waist length coat. I must have it!

Oswald Boateng does dabble with a few of this season’s trends but he did hope to continue on with some looks we saw last season, Like the baseball sweaters and last seasons “it” color, techno blue! Sadly these looks were not any must haves. One trend that Boateng hit was his velvet blazer and pants in a rich rust color. For the second section he showed more outwear pieces including a full-length gray knit jacket with matching knit scarf.

Although gingham has not traditionally been a Fall/Winter fabric, Oswald really used the fabric in strong looks, which tones down the loud print. He also explored this year’s trend of shearling in a wool tweed overcoat with a heavy shearling color. This coat will certainly be seen around the slopes next season.

The must have pieces at Givenchy are endless. Although I have narrowed it down to two looks. First are the velvet pinstripe jackets in rust or dark hunter green with a matching vest. The second are Boateng’s wool herringbone overcoats. Show in a dark brown and honey brown with a jean or corduroy pant and cardigan.Oswald Boateng has kept his promise; Givenchy has been given a new life. I am sure Monsieur Givenchy is watching the DVD of the show right about now and clapping with excitement. Boateng’s powerful use of color didn’t go overboard. It was near perfect! Bravo Monsieur Boateng!

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Season after season the House of Ungaro has suffered the same fete as other great French houses like Givenchy and Ribanne. The pain of finding talent that can carry out the traditions of the legacy that has already been mapped by their founder. Although history does prove that it takes several years before they can find the one. It took Chanel over 30 years to land Lagerfeld and some houses get lucky right away like Dior with Saint Laurent. Although the great one’s go onto becoming great craftsman's themselves.

For Fall/Winter the house of Ungaro’s chief designer José Lévy focused on creating a new vision for the Ungaro Man. Now Emmanuelle Ungaro never really focused to much energy on crafting his menswear. His focus was to keep with his love of color and prints and his passion of tailoring. Lévy lost focus this season by abandoning all three together. Lévy only showed two prints, a honeycomb print and a Hawaiian contrast print. Which was one of only a few must have pieces in the collection.

In the opening section Lévy concentrated the use of color into monotone looks. But his overall use of color was molded around a dark color pallet. The first color was a dark burgundy then moving into a dark gray. Lévy used the dark burgundy in several looks, too many looks overall! I did like a few of the suits but their overall tailoring was far from the quality or form we’ve come to expect from Ungaro. Lévy’s tailoring seems to be more relaxed, creating an overall messy look on each model. Even Lévy ‘s pants are not cut properly. As the models walked down the runway their packages seemed to shift all over the place. Even in the fabrics did Lévy miss the Ungaro philosophy, using stretch jersey in pants and cotton twill for several blazers.

Over all Lévy did create a bland Ungaro collection, which is like creating a Lacroix collection with out color. In the closing section Lévy really went out on a limb. With no color for two thirds of the collection, he gives us White, Bright Purple and Pink. Sadly the color is wasted on pieces that don’t fit the collection. Like Rizzo’s Hot Pink Ladies Outfit, pink satin jacket and all. I had to put a picture of it up to show everyone. How Awful, I know! The only must have item in the collection were the burgundy tuxedo jackets with beading and embroidery. I am hoping that next season Monsieur Lévy will spend some time in the archives before molding his next collection.

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Designer Paul Smith focuses his Fall/Winters looks on combining the American turn of the century west and English lords of the early 20th century. Smith focused on many of this season trends, from plaids, the west and even using velvet. In the opening section Smith showed only 3 pieces with a green and pale blue plaid. The standout look was a plaid blazer worn with a brown wool vest with orange pinstripe and honey brown corduroy pants.

Smith closed the first section of the collection a number of outerwear pieces. Another big trend this season, but Smith did create several standout shearling coats of the season. My favorite being the orange/brown stained leather overcoat with a honey colored shearling lining inside and on the collar and lapels. Worn with the same dark brown wool suit with orange pin striping, another standout look in this collection.

Although Smith did show some looks with a tapered leg pant. Smith did focus on offering the Paul Smith client a fuller leg pant. In the second section Smith showed more corduroy, on jacket and vest as well as pants. He also showed more knitwear, including this season big trend item, Cardigans. All of the cardigans in the Smith collection are great buy for the season, minus the Navahos print.

The collection then took a turn for the worse. Paul opted to shift into this season’s western trend and go a little overboard with the overall look. Showing small ribbon ties, embroidered checks shirts and boot cut pants. The must have piece from Paul Smith is certainly his light gray wool suit with white contrast stitching on both the jacket and pant. Smith showed both a sellable and wearable collection for his clients. But the Smith didn’t really produce any standout looks that distinguish him from the rest of the pack. Hoping for change in the next season!

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For his fourth collection for Saint Laurent, designer Stefano Pilati really showed how much understands the Saint Laurent philosophy. What is really interesting about this collection is that Pilati not only looked at prior menswear collections but womenswear as well. There are certainly some feminine touches in this collection. Which overall softens the very masculine style of the Saint Laurent eveningwear and sportswear.

In the opening section Pilati bowed to this seasons trend of using plaid. Showing several plaid blazers and overcoats. My favorite was the fur collar overcoat, a classic Saint Laurent tailored coat, which softened by the use of plaid. Pilati continued to more outerwear in the opening section. Shifting from a camel coats and jacket with black/red plaid, paired with matching vests. The must have piece in this section was the bomber jacket covered with faux fur with a leather collar and trim.

Pilati has abandoned the tapered pant we’ve seen for the last 4 seasons. For whole collection he showed a full or baggy leg pant that was either hemmed short or long. Stefano also showed all the pants with a pleated front, adding to the overall baggy leg look, love it. Several designers this season has attempted to incorporate shearling into their outerwear. Pilati showed three near perfect shearling coats. The outside is all leather and the collar and inside is lined with a short hair shearling.

This full figure or tailoring Pilati was focusing on gave the collection a softer look. At the close of the show, Pilati showed an all black cape lined with pink satin. At first I would have expected Katoucha or LouLou De Falaise sashaying under such a striking cape. Instead it was male model, I loved it. The must have piece from the collection is the black cable knit smoking jacket, an homage to Saint Laurent’s le smoking look from the 70’s.

Overall there were only two looks that I didn’t like in this collection. First was the ostrich leather coat with a fur collar. Then there were all the pant cuffs that were tucked into skinny dress boots, which made the models look like chickens. The one look that Pilati used repeatedly and really made a statement was the pairing of a tweed jacket with a wool pants or otherwise. The crowning moment of the collection was Stefano Pilati’s bow at the close of the show. Pilati appeared in tweed and wool combo suit worn with a dark vest and a pink scarf under the jacket. Bravo Monsieur Pilati!

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Racing around Paris can be very dizzying, especially going from one show to the next in one location. The killer is traveling out for just one show, that’s where you car and drive come in handy. For Hermes editors and buyers made there way back to the Couvent des Cordeliers a second time for this week. Earlier in the week Yoji Yamamoto showed at the Couvent des Cordeliers. Don’t worry there is another show there later in the week.

For Fall/Winter 2006 Hermes designer Véronique Nichanian continue the tradition of providing a high-end look for the Hermes clientele. The focus of the collection is certainly to produce high quality pieces that will fit in with the trends of the season. Nichanians’ focus was on this season’s trend of using plaids, velvet and knitwear options. For the opening section Nichanian and her team showed a number of tailored suits with tapered legged pants. I did like the dark brown suit pinstripe suit worn with a bright red satin shirt.

With so much darkness shadowing the Fall/Winter collection, any color is a breath of life. For Fall Nichanian focused on one color to make a statement, RED! She showed red on everything from knitwear, outerwear, shoes and pants. The striking pieces were the candy apple red sweaters and satin print shirts. She also likes to hide red all over the place, like the dark gray wool jacket with red panels on the underarm of the sleeve.

For outerwear Nichanian kept the structure very simple and clean. Shearling is favorite look for some designers this season. At Hermes there were a couple of shearling coats, which did not fit into the overall look of the collection. Véronique did show suede and patent leather bomber jackets in the Candy Apple Red, which will be hot sell items for Hermes.

The must have pieces from this collection also include the cashmere and merino wool cardigans. These two-tone cardigans in all red or black are sophisticated and young. I am also a little nuts over the red velvet pants, yes I know their velvet. This was Véronique Nichanian first collection for Hermes and I must say she put together a very exceptional collection. Bravo Madame Nichanian!

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Ann Demeulemeester has been described by fashion critics as the anti=Rykiel of Parisian fashion. Bringing her style and looks right off the streets of Paris. This seasons Madam Demeulemeester focused her collection on an icon rather than looking to the streets. For Fall/Winter Ann called on her friend and mentor musician Patti Smith and her masculine and morbid rock style. To be honest when the show started and the first two models came walking down the runway, I whispered “Carol Anne, Carol Anne, walk towards the light Carol Anne” – I am sorry my first impression was the eerie preacher from the “Poltergeist” Movies.

In the opening section, Ann was content in showing a number of silver lame pants and blazer, a look we did see in Milan. A look that was done two season’s to go, although when I think lame I don’t think Patti, I think Bowie. The designer chose to show several velvet looks, including a suit, jackets and pants. We all know I am not a big fan of this season Velvet trends but some designers have surprised me.

The second section shed a little hope on a rather weak collection. For knitwear Demeulemeester showed several knit sweaters that stood out in the overall rocker look. I especially loved her oversized black cardigans with a chunky weave knit. Sweaters aside the designer tried to give emphasis on her outerwear. The leather pirate jacket and 70’s leather smoking jacket (very St. Laurent).

The must have piece from this collection was the black leather jacket with a cascading fur collar. The obvious inspiration for this collection in the end is Patti Smith. The singer and songwriter even graced the catwalk modeling a Demeulemeester jacket and clarinet. Smith also walked the designer down the runway after the show. Back to the inspirations taken from this collection, my last two impressions were Blade Runner in the middle of the collection, and Patti Smith meets Jared Leto in the later half of the collection.

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The partnership of high-end designers like Yamamoto and footwear labels like Adidas, have proven to be provocative and a cash cow. This season Yamamoto has produced on his vibrant footwear collections today. From Aqua to Red and Yellow active footwear. For his ready to wear collection for Fall/Winter, Yoji and his design team jump to the other end of the color spectrum. The collection by large is in a dark pallet of black, midnight blue and dark grays.

In the opening section of the collection Yamamoto showed several black evening jackets and overcoats. The tailoring is classic Yamamoto, loose around the bodice with modern details. I loved the black wool blazer with a panel of light gray wool stripping vertically. Military stars and medals is Yamamoto’s accessory for the second section. The look is very militant but up close to fake or superficial for the Yamamoto brand. In this section the designer showed a black trench coat with collar certainly one of my favorite pieces.

For Fall the designer showed very little knitwear, only a handful of pieces made it down the runway. Those select few did make a positive statement for the collection. Like the gray sweaters with tassels trimming the collar. The must have knitwear piece is the floor length knit coat. For Fall Yamamoto and his design team focused on a new shape for men’s pants. Showing a number of wool and cotton dress slacks with a straight or baggy leg. To close out the show the designer took the tuxedo jackets and tailored the length below the waist and focused on leather and cutting embellishments. I loved the black wool overcoat with the basket weave cutouts on the breast and the lapel with horizontal sliver cuts.

The two have pieces of the collection are any of the black wool tuxedo jacket with leather cut into a chain-link, trimming the front of the jacket. The second piece is the dark navy blue suit with a red stitching similar to baseball stitching, on the front and back of the coat. For Fall/Winter Asian designers like Yamamoto as well as Kawakubo & Watanabe have broken down their modernism philosophy and explored the world of fashion a little more this season.

Although some editors have argued that such change is giving into make their lines more commercial, there is more to these collection outside of the obvious changes. Designers like Yamamoto like to challenge themselves by breaking not only social barriers, but also their own craft barriers. Bravo Monsieur Yamamoto!

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Sonia Rykiel goes soft on her classic Parisian menswear collection. Sonia and her design team focus on melting the Parisian gentleman with classic English looks and pieces. In the opening section of the collection Rykiel plasters plaid on everything from knitwear to ties and even pants and suits. She does not use just one plaid print throughout; rather I have counted over 10 so far.

The opening section offered a number of different knitwear looks for the Rykiel client. From her classic Parisian stripes in hot pink/black double-breasted cardigan to a red plaid cardigan worn over a matching sweater vest. In Milan the “it” fabric of choice was velvet, thankfully the use of velvet has been pretty absent in Paris. Rykiel did show a few velvet pieces, like the velvet dress shirt, enough said.

The overall look that Rykiel was going for was a preppy collegiate in a vibrant and dark French pallet. She used plaid practically on everything. The plaid suits were edited to add classic Rykiel colors of canary yellow, French blue and purple. I love the Windsor check tweed pants worn with a cardigan and brown velvet coat. The velvet was distressed so it gave the jacket a more relaxed look. To top of this look model had bottle green leather driving gloves. The same green leather was used on belts and shoes. The bottle green reminds me of the movie “Bright Young Things”.

Sonia Rykiel has always been a quintessential designer in the Paris. For over 30 years she’s has built a fashion house that has defined Parisian style. This season Rykiel’s exploration of molding English style with a French color pallet is a success. The must have piece of the collection are any of Rykiel’s plaid pants or plaid cardigans. Bravo Madame Rykiel!

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Vuitton designer Marc Jacobs’ collection for Fall/Winter is a simple as he could possibly get this season. The designer opted to tone down this collection and focus on a winter feel and look for the Vuitton label. The eye-catching pieces of the collection are certainly all the knitwear and outerwear. In the opening section of the show, Jacobs showed a number faux mink trimmed jackets and coats. Most of the jackets looked to decadent for the ski holiday collection. I did like the bomber jacket with a chinchilla collar.

Jacobs moved away from the use of fur and into more clean looks. Like the navy blue overcoats and p-coats with leather trim or triangles hold straps onto the jackets. The big trend coat this season is a certainly waist length collegiate coat. Jacobs showed black wool version of the collegiate coat, very classic looking but the black makes the overall look of the model more modern. I did not like the down filled bomber vests and jackets, a trend we can do without this season.

The Vuitton knitwear options are very slim. The designer only showed handful of knit pieces in this show. Varying from crew neck to turtle neck sweaters. The must have piece of the collection was the diamond design sweater in brown and white. For Fall/Winter Jacobs vision of a very dark collection is a modern look for the house Vuitton. Jacobs built of the dark pallet to create man looks for Vuitton to play with in the winter months. For Vuitton client this means the options are very slim. The must have item from this collection are the red & yellow arrow cashmere fabric covered bags and luggage.

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Designer Kris Van Assche for his Fall/Winter collection focused on giving his clients option to clean and tailored collection. For this collection Kris and his design team threw out the regular tapered leg pant. Opting this season to give his clients a full leg pant that is tapered at the knee. Giving the models more shape in the leg. This is a good thing for guys like me who have skinny knees and have a fuller calf and thigh.

With outerwear the big trend this season in Paris. Van Assche followed suit only slights. His focus was creating modern suits with clean lines. Showing a number of suits in wool and tweed. In the opening section he showed a number two tone suits with dark green jacket paired with a brown tweed pant. He also showed a number of solid color suits in black/gray/navy blue high sheen wool fabrics.

In the second section of the collection the designer showed a number of black and white pieces that didn’t fit into the overall look of the collection. Then Van Assche started to show a number of knitwear looks. From turtleneck and crew neck sweater, I liked the black and gray stripe shawl and sweaters. There was only one cardigan in the collection, a dark brown wool cardigan.

In the second half of the collection the designer seemed to loose focus of his vision of the collection. Van Assche showed cargo pants worn with dress blazers and dress shirts over sweaters. The must have piece from this collection is the gray tweed collegiate overcoat with black leather trim. Although this collection was very decadent and dark, there are a number of sellable looks, but the selection is very small.

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Junya Watanabe raided the U.S. Vietnam Surplus storage locker for her Fall/Winter collection. An obvious inspiration for the collection was Robert DeNiro in “Taxi Driver” as well as Army Veterans. Watanabe mixed classic military fabrics with rich English tweed and wools. The Watanabe showed several pants with tapered leg but the main looks focused on a fuller or straight leg pant.

Watanabe focused her energy this season on her outwear and knitwear, the two big trends of the season for menswear. Junya and her design team took classic army trench coats and jacket and reconstructed them and added new fabrics. An army green soldier’s cotton blazer was tailored with a green tweed 12-inch panel to make the jacket hip-length. Watanabe also showed a dark green tweed suit with army green contrasting pockets, as well as a gray/blue tweed version.

I was not impressed with brown stripe pants with the matching jacket and camouflage pockets. The standout outerwear piece of the collection is the green tweed jacket with orange pin stripes. The jacket was loosely tailored and the contrasting elbow patches were moved forward on the sleeve.

Watanabe showed very little knitwear this season. Most of the pieces shown were done in monotone color pallet of brown or black. The must have knitwear piece is certainly the brown fishing net weave sweater. At the close of the show Watanabe showed a number of Aviator jacket and coats with faux fur trim. The jackets had no real stand out look from what you can buy down at a surplus store here in the states.

Over Junya Watananbe’s collection for Fall/Winter is a step out of her classic modern deconstruction philosophy. She did keep to one trend this season show a large number of outerwear pieces. She didn’t bow to other trends like the use of velvet or offering a large knitwear selection. Although I like the overlook Watanabe was creating, the collection was lacking the modern look synonymous with Watanabe.

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Hasidic Jews, Rasputin’s Monks or Gothic Punks. John Galliano was all over the place with his menswear collection for Fall/Winter 2006. But in the end the entire show pulled together into one theme. While most critics and buyers were screaming Metropolis was evident muse for this collection. I beg to differ, as always, Terry Gilliam’s “Time Bandits” was more of an inspiration in this collection.

Galliano opened the show with a number of unique black over coats with embroidery and military themes. I am not even drawing the military them from the helmets the models wore. One jacket in particular was crowning piece of the opening section, a sheer black twill overcoat with white embroidery on the bodice of the jacket. The bottom half of the overcoat was made of sheer fabric and hemmed with a thick band of black wool. You could see the models bare legs through the coat.

The collection began to shift into a World War 1 look. Galliano focused on using military blue and aviator green in his color pallet. The jackets were deconstructed and laced with decadent fabrics. For his pants, Galliano kept to the tapered leg style this season. He showed a number of denim pants with a bleach print, but they were too tight to the leg. John did show a few full leg pants this season. I loved the tweed pants with black leather panel inserts.

For Fall/Winter Galliano did not show a large number of knitwear pieces. Although what he did present were near perfect, like the silk muscle tone weave cable knit sweater. Or the full length gray knit overcoat, which looked very heavy but it seemed to just move with the model. Although Galliano did dabble with this season trend fabric of velvet, he used very little. Thank you! Galliano did start a new trend this season showing a number of t-shirts, and long sleeve cotton shirts with silk screens of a wolf print, a Toulouse Lautrec artwork print and most importantly a print of his face and logo name. Who wouldn’t love to have Galliano’s gorgeous face on their chest?

John took a great interest in working with his outerwear this season. Take note of the brown tweed jacket with wide lapel and dark brown wool bands around the jacket hem and sleeve cuffs. Also I loved the white and black wool blanket jacket and matching scarf. Galliano did show a number of accessories in the collection. Stand out pieces include the Toulouse Lautrec print bags and the fingerless knit gloves.

In the close of the show, Galliano had some fun by showing his collection backwards and made the focus on undergarments. He showed a number of cotton boxers and pajama bottoms with red/blue or green/yellow stripes. The underwear and pajamas will be a big sell for Galliano next fall.

The must have pieces from this collection include the full-length brown leather coat with pale orange shearling lining and trim. The other is the army green jacket with red silk brocade fabric lining and lapels. Overall Galliano’s crazy show is very wearable and sellable. The whole “Time Bandit” look is modern and classic. Bravo Monsieur Galliano!

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At Issey Miyake the vision for Fall is more color but the colors are too far into the 80’s for this season. Designer Naoki Takizawa opened his collection Fall/Winter with very masculine, modern tailored suits. The suits had almost a Mugler look to them, but Takizawa gave them a modern twist of adding gray/neon blue/black leather panels in the shoulder of the jacket and along the lapels and cuffs. The panels are like slivers on the suit, so they do not overpower the overall look.

In the later half of the opening section, Takizawa moved away from wool fabrics and switched to linen. I particularly like the linen fabrics that he had dyed to look like denim. Their movement was stiff but it looked relaxed. In the second section of his collection Takizawa moved into a aviator look with a 80’s twist. Showing down puff jacket and vests in bottle green and orange along with parachute pants. Color was the focus in this section; the designer abandoned the Miyake tailoring and modern forms and focused on playing on the colors. For example the fire engine red overcoat and sunshine strip sweater.

For the closing section Takizawa moved back to the tailored suit. First showing classic tailored tweed and velvet suits, trimmed with velvet or a orange/black print fabric along the hem and/or the lapels. Then he showed a number of jacquard suits and overcoats in a shocking color pallet of hot pink, teal, green, purple and pink.

There are two must haves from this collection. First the off-white cable knit sweater with a burgundy trim on the cuff and hem of the sweater. The other must have from this collection are any of the high collared Japanese style tweed overcoats. Overall there are only a handful of looks in this collection that are really standout sell items. Takizawa has lost his feel for the Miyake vision and drive for modern.

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Raf Simons returns to Paris after a successful first collection for Jil Sander down in Milan. For his namesake collection Simons focused on his personal vision and built on his darkest collection to date. Think Black should have been plastered all over the invitation. Although Simons strayed into add some white and gray here and there, the focus is all the black.

In the opening section of the collection Simons jumped right into showing off his knitwear for the season. Cashmere and Wool sweaters in all white or all gray with horizontal/vertical ribbing and geometric lines. The opening section inspiration is certainly the slopes and cocktail by the chalet fire. The odd piece in the opening section was the barbwire wrapped black leather boots, which did not fit the overall look. The Simons philosophy is certainly to focus on the minimalism and make it wearable.

The collection as whole had very little accessories or accents to the looks. Simons once again showed more skinny leg pants, not showing any full leg pants this season. The must have pant looks are the seal gray silk dress suits and the matching dress shirt.

For Fall Simons’ collection is all about the outerwear, showing many overcoats, ponchos and bomber jackets. Simons played with the whole ski jacket look showing a lot of vinyl down bomber jackets. His key outerwear pieces are the velour jackets. I love the satin velor overcoat with black wool lapels and trim. The two must have looks from this collection are any of the black satin velour overcoats. As well as the black turtleneck sweater with leather strips around the neck. My personal must have piece is the white window-ceil sweater. It’s an all white sweater with a crew neck and white bar from one shoulder to the other. Bravo Monsieur Simons!

view collection here

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Animal prints and furs seem to be a common trend this season, from Milan to Paris. Menswear designer Dries Van Noten jumped into this trend for Fall/Winter, head first. Noten offered animal prints and fur on scarves, jackets, shirts, overcoats and pants. Something about snake skin print pants does just not sit well in my stomach. I immediately got an image of some greasy guy at a club who spends the entire night hitting on women/men with really bad pickup lines. One cheetah print jacket was a repeat from the PRADA show in Milan. Can you tell the difference (photos above) in the photo's whose jacket is which?

Outside of the animal prints, the collection as a whole had a very English businessman look. Even the over sized tweed coats, which at first glance are very 20’s gangster but shown in a tweed fabric which shifts the look into an English afternoon jacket. Then Van Noten showed a great classic trench coat with a peter pan collar. The boxy trench is broken up with such a feminine collar.

Dries Van Noten has always been conventional designer who opts to add those little details, which makes him standout. This season Van Noten kept with the repetitive tapered leg pant this season but he did show only a handful of straight leg pants. His real focus this season is certainly on his outerwear and knitwear, the two big trends this season. The designer created several knitwear pieces that really stood out in the Fall collection. This includes his wrap sweater, shown in solid brown or burgundy or a diamond design with a brown waist.

Van Noten showed very little evening wear this season and almost no tuxedos. The same goes for his use of accessories, almost next to nothing. For footwear I was really loving the brown/black patent leather wingtips, but not feeling his silver lame dress shoes. The must haves this season from Dries Van Noten are any of his knitwear, especially his wrap cardigans, the blue & taupe sweater with a Nepal weave design and also the zebra stripe cardigan. My favorite is certainly camel cashmere cardigan along with his baggy trench coats.

Overall the Van Noten has put together a very classic and sell-able collection. The animal print them in the collection was a low point in the collection. Especially when Van Noten showed a black wool overcoat with tiger fur lining on the inside. This is a eerie reminder of Gucci’s show two weeks ago. When Gucci’s head menswear designer John Ray (who handed in his resignation yesterday) showed a black overcoat lined with Mink. Overall I think Van Noten pulled together a great collection, Tiger Fur Aside! Bravo Monsieur Van Noten!

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Designer Rei Kawakubo spent the holidays swinging to the stray cat strut while putting together her menswear collection Fall/Winter 2006. The obvious influences to Mod/Ska collection were Rick Ocasek (lead singer of the The Cars) and Bryan Ferry. Kawakubo opened the collection several black overcoats that were very light in the tailoring department. Which allows the wearer to move easily and keep with Mod/Ska theme of the look.

Rei and her design team abandoned the skinny tapered leg pants this season. Opting for a fuller leg, the designer focused on creating an overall shape to each look. While the collection is not a classic Comme Des Garcons collection (Modern Japanese Inspiration) the collection offers modern looks in classic pieces. Kawakubo did take her modern tailoring to extreme, as usual! Offering several tweed and wool pants that we extremely baggy in the leg.

The Garcons suit this collection is very classic and in a dark pallet of black and gray. The designer did show a number of suits with 50’s argyle print down the front of pants and matching jacket. As for accessories, Kawakubo kept it very simple and clean. Adorning the male models with belt-loop chains and either a converse shoes or platform vinyl wingtips.

There are two standout and must have pieces in this collection. First are the tasseled trim jackets and shirts, which add some femininity to your overall look (it’s a good thing), either in black or white. The second is Kawakubo’s silk-screened prints on classic strip dress shirts. A little punk but still a classic corporate look. Bravo Madam Kawakubo!

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For Fall/Winter 2006, expect to bounce back to the dark and earthy pallet that has been missing the last 3 seasons. Milan menswear designers look to the dark side of reality and incorporate a intellect look. A number of great trends came out of almost every show during the Milan fashion week.

1. Knitwear

The big buy for Fall/Winter is knitwear: from big, bulky and chunky weave sweaters, to argyle sweaters in the print of your choice (ranging from Burberry’s Red/Copper colored small argyle print – Zucchelli’s etch-a-sketch print for Calvin Klein, Kean Etro’s puzzle print argyle sweaters in Mauve and Green pallets.)

To the cardigans I have been yearning for season after season. Raf Simons started off the week of shows, showing a gray cardigan that was simple. As the week progressed they took on all shapes and lengths. From D&G’s bulky knit cardigans in gray and blue, to Etro’s argyle puzzle print cardigans of merino wool. The must have Cardigans from Milan are any of the Missoni cardigans; especially their new Swiss Alps design print.

2. Collection Themes

Most Designers seemed to be focused on one theme. While a few rogue designers took the plunge of not conforming to the common interest. Alexander McQueen’s collection of Romanian Vampires and Gangsters is most certainly the most daring a successful look of the week. He crafted a collection of masculine suits and striking outerwear for Fall. McQueen seemed to be the only standout Rogue look of the season while D&G’s nautical collection and Versace’s rewind to the 80’s were a big miss.

Rogue themes aside the main look coming out of Milan is classic English style. From the tailored tweed suits to the bowler hats. Many editors and designers have noted this inspiration was drawn from the Duke of Windsor (not Charles!) Personally, I found looks by Burberry and Gucci, had routes in Edwardian period of tailoring. While Valentino & DSquared used shapes and lines of tailoring from 60’s and 50’s.

3. Neck Scarves

Practically every designer in Milan had a neck scarf in his or her collection. Tied flat to the neck or wrapped loosely. This must have accessory for fall actually hit the catwalks of Rio first. Lets see if the Parisian designers next week adopt this new accessory. My feeling is that it will scarce since the look is so obviously French.

4. Outerwear in all Shapes & Lengths

If you have waiting to buy a killer jacket, overcoat or blazer to add to small collection of outerwear, the opportunity will arise next Fall. Designers took outerwear and given the world a season of endless options or possibilities. The fabrics of choice are most certainly tweeds and wool, but designers even found leathers to be the perfect accessory to such a decadent and earthy season.

The best overcoats of the season come from such designers as Christopher Bailey at Burberry and Giorgio Armani’s Velvet pieces. The standout pieces belong a few designers this season. Alexander McQueen’s embroidered and beaded overcoats in all black are perfect for that special event. I have my eye on it for my wedding coming up in Fall 07’. Another standout overcoat for the season is Gucci’s black overcoat that had no collar and the coats was cut to the body but flared out from the waist, creating a movement of fabric when you walk.

Etro’s overcoats is one of my must have pick for the season. From the full-length tweed coats with a velvet collar, to his paisley print full-length coats with a suede collar and red satin lining. Very romantic but very masculine!

5. Baggy & Straight Leg Pants

Season after Season we have seen nothing put tapered leg pants. For first time this season designers take the opportunity change menswear. Although a bulk of the shows did show a skinny or tapered pant in the collection. The big must have pants for this season is the straight leg and baggy pants.

Designers took the new full leg look and focused on the fabrics rather than the fine detail of its tailoring. For his signature collection Armani had special made velvets shaped into a full let with either a flared bottom hem or a tapered cuff with a full leg. Also have to mention Missoni’s tweed and wool pants.

The must have pants of the season are the straight leg corduroy pants from Bottega Veneta & Burberry. Both designers showed the corduroy pant in a deep rust color or dark chocolate brown. Along with Dolce & Gabanna’s full leg tweed pant their wool pinstripe pant with a denim waist. The best pant of the season is certainly Alexander McQueen’s high-waisted pinstripe and tuxedo pants

6. Accessories

More accessories the better, from the neck scarves, designers in Milan offered a number of long scarf’s and even capes. The must have accessories for Fall/Winter in Milan are the tweed and leather wingtips shown in all leather at DSquared and with tweed and leather mixed at Etro.

My hands down must have piece from Milan are:

1. Alexander McQueen’s red tartan full leg and high waisted pant. Perfect for all heights and sizes. A nod to Scotsman out there and certainly fitting to the plaids and tartans of the season. Although McQueen's bold use of color and theatrics makes the look a standout moment during a recycled week of shows.

2. Miu Miu’s Windsor check trench coat that is tailored close to the waist, with no collar and a double-wide lapel. The jacket just moved with the model. It's modern and young, a look that is desperately needed this season.

Onto Paris!

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Frank Sinatra is alive in Milan, designer Tomas Maier take the Bottega Veneta back to the classic with its menswear as well as luxury goods. Maier focused very clean and defined look that exudes intelligence. Sinatra is certainly the inspiration for the opening section but the collection as a whole is University Professor/Harrison Ford’s Indiana Jones theme. The collection was filled with a large number of luxury goods, from cross country backpacks to travel totes.

Maier focused on keeping his color pallet very natural and easy on the eye for Fall. A lot of chocolate and latte browns, greens and grays. Molding this striking colors into some sophisticated looks. From the dark and light brown corduroy suits even the tailored tweed suits. The Bottega pant is tapered to the leg but they do offer a straight leg pant.

With the abundance of great suits and outerwear, accessories are the next best thing. For Fall Bottega offers a number of plaid scarves and ties. The small satin bow ties are just simply darling and gave the models a little dandy look. To my delight Bottega Veneta used my family tartan on a vest, tie and the lining of a jacket. The collection as a whole is complete sell to the Bottega client. From the waist-length crocodile jackets, to the muted argyle sweaters even the Windsor check suits.

The must have pieces of the collection are the Frank Sinatra hats in the opening of the show. Other must haves from BV are the geometric sweaters, suede shearling coat and the boot cut corduroy pants in khaki or brown. A very Fall/Winter collection with a classic Bottega Veneta look. Bravo Monsieur Maier!

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Designer Kean Etro wrote in his show notes that he drew inspiration from the Duke of Windsor (Not Charles). What is up with everyone and their fascination with the Duke of Windsor this season? For his Fall/Winter collection Kean Etro showed a rather large collection. The designer molded this show to shift color pallets while keeping to strict looks. The Etro pallet for Fall/Winter is very colorful, shifting from mauve to pink to green to blue.

The designer molded each piece or look by making sure there is a masculine fabric like tweed and adding vibrant colors to make the look standout. One example is the full-length tweed overcoats with a velvet collar. This is the only use of velvet in the collection that I really liked. I also fell in love with the tartan print jackets and the paisley overcoats with a suede collar. Etro showed the paisley coat in different color pallets, like purple, rust and green. What made the coats striking were the satin lining inside the coats.

Kean Etro has been known to go overboard with accent colors when creating a collection. This season is no different; the designer threw color into practically every look. The complimentary uses were certainly in the Tibetan patters (yellow/purple paired with brown) and his use of tartans and plaids. But then there are overcoats, which were all mauve and all pink. They were shocking but to much for a collection that is building a look off of patterns such as paisleys and plaids. Etro did use color in some interesting accessories. Like the orange ostrich leather bag which is certainly a must have bag of the season.

While the bags raised a lot of eyebrows, the shoes were creating a lot of smile. Kean showed a number of wingtip and dress shoes with a pointy toe and mixed leather with fabrics in the design of the shoe. He explored color the leather red and honey yellow and mixing different tweed and herringbone fabrics. The must have piece from this collection is Etro’s version of Argyle Print which he reworked into a puzzle pattern, shown in mauve and green. He used the argyle print in both sweaters and cardigans. Another must have from this collection are striped silk sashes worn around the models waist on top of the pant. Bravo Monsieur Etro!

view collection here

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Miucca Prada had a little hairy mishap at the end of Milan fashion week. In the opening of her Miu Miu collection for Fall/Winter the designer showed a rather shocking gorilla haired covered bag. Editors and Buyers began to squirm in their seats at the sight of the bag while the photo pit started to click/click like crazy! After the model turned photo assistants pulled out their laptops and started uploading the photos. The showing of the bag is bad timing with the big controversial headline in the UK of “Dead & Alive” singer & Celebrity Big Brother Contestant Pete Burns parading his vintage Gorilla Hair Jacket on camera. The jacket has sparked controversy in the media and an investigation by police, which has lead to the confiscation of the jacket. Now to be fair, the Miu Miu bag was faux gorilla hair, while the ostrich feather bag was real!

For this collection, Prada and her design team wanted to make it clear that her Miu Miu line is designed with her young clientele in mind. This is most certainly evident with the casting of her models, the oldest looking model had to only be 18 years old. With this young client in mind, Prada focused on the skinny look we’ve seen season after season. The Miu Miu pant is tapered but also made of stretch jersey, which screamed 80’s, Au Coton stretch pants for boys! While I did like the navy blue cords stuffed in a riding boots.

Prada’s design team only showed two real must have coats in the entire collection. First is the black and tweed trench coats that are tailored closed to the waist on the model. The trench had no collar but it did have a doublewide lapel. The second jacket is the collar-less tuxedo jacket with a contrasting velvet lapel. Miu Miu’s overall color pallet is very dark, black, gray and navy.

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After a long week of shows in Milan and designers touching on this season’s top trends such as knitwear, reshaping men’s pants and neck scarves here and there. Giorgio Armani took one trend and built an entire collection of velvet. From the jackets and pants, even the sweaters and accessories. First I will admit I have cringed all week at the use of velvet, but Monsieur Armani has lifted my veil of pessimism of the trend. Only Armani could take a fabric like velvet and not only make it wearable and comfortable but also make it sexy.

The Armani pant for Fall/Winter has made the transition in the bulky pant of the season. Armani took his baggy pant and added a tapered hem or flared hem to the bottom. Armani then took this season velvet and had his milliners make them softer and more relaxed, which created a relaxed and decadent looking fabric. He used the velvet fabric in all his pants and added a number of prints to create sophisticated looks. Some of the prints included argyle, plaids, Windsor check, and some familiar family tartans. The prints were done in darks shade of brown, navy blue and red.

From velvet pants I must jump to the velvet jackets which he used the same velvet prints. But he also used some classic tweed and wool fabrics as well. He showed one wool trench coats, lined with a deep chocolate velvet fabric. He also added a velvet collar to his classic tweed jackets. A must have jacket from this collection is most certainly the tartan print waist-high jackets with matching vest. Armani’s collection was Massive with well over 120 looks total. At one point I started singing songs in my head “Now I am falling Asleep, while she’s calling a cab,”

Although a number of looks were very notable in this collection, Armani showed to many version of the same looks. He also explored some of the other big trends of the season. Such as his version of the Argyle print, which is blown up and no lines to define the diamond shapes. Armani also tried to offer only a handful of cardigan sweater but the end result is drab 80;s look. The closing section at Armani was weak with focus on velvet jackets paired with silk collar-less shirts. The must have look of the collection are the blue velvet pants which were colored to look like denim.

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“Oh Captain, My Captain”, Dominico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana are shipping off with another Nautical & Naval theme collection. The design duo carried on with their baggy pants this season, showing practically no tapered leg pants, Thank You! Key pants in this collection are the baggy tweed pants and dark, dark denim jeans. The bleach or distressed jean was shown but it’s a look that needs to come to an end. The change of the D&G pants is noticeable, but the key looks for Fall/Winter are the abundance of knitwear and outerwear. Certainly a top five trends for F/W.

Knitwear has always been a signature look in the designer’s original clothing line. Although this season they showed twice the number of knitwear looks in their D&G collection. The D&G sweaters and cardigans have a bulky form and a thick weave. The must have sweaters are certainly the bulky turtleneck or button collar sweaters. Shown in Navy and Gray. The collection as a whole built on a navy blue pallet with color popping up here and here. Cable knit is certainly a flattering look but the vertical blue/white stripe sweaters are certainly not!

For outerwear the designers reworked and reworked p-coats and naval dress jackets. What they created was a tailored masterpiece. The must have coat from the collection are the Navy Blue P-coat with the tapered waist. The key accessory for the D&G client is not a D&G labeled item. It’s the sandals by Birkenstock, worn with wool socks!

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Grab your luggage and get ready to follow Valentino into the skies. This season the designer shows us how our grandparents use to fly. In real style! For Fall/Winter Valentino emphasized the gentleman’s need to look sophisticated but masculine as well. The runway backdrop was private jet rotating for your viewing pleasure, something I will never get to experience I am sure! Valentino showed a number stand out pieces in this collection, from the long trenches with wide lapels (a signature jacket that Valentino first showed back in 60’s in his womenswear collection) to all the luggage pieces.

This seasons seems to be all about outwear and accessories for men. The Valentino pant for Fall is either tapered or straight legged. When the models walked you can see how they were not cut properly. The flat front of the pant shows the models crotch in movement. Knitwear is certainly the big trend of the season but Valentino opted to bow out of this seasons hot must have. Only showing one sweater cardigan with a high collar.

The best pieces are most certainly all of Valentino’s outerwear, from the trench coats to the waist length crocodile bomber jacket. Another Valentino must have is the gray wool coat with the square panel front buttoned onto the front of the jacket. I was not impressed with satin jackets and sheerling coats, looks that have used to much this season. I was very please to see some classic Valentino tweed blazers pared with purple and gray plaid scarf.

Enough already with the whole Brokeback cowboy looks. Although I have to give applause to Valentino for only showing one looks in his collection, two cowboys walking hand in hand – Sorry boys, Both those models are straight in the real world! The second must haves of this collection are most certainly Valentino’s luggage for holiday travel this year. Two collections really jumped out at you, the 20’s deco print luggage win brown/yellow and gray/black. The collection are the white patent leather luggage with red leather trim, striking and versatile for Fall or Summer…who say you can’t carry white after Labor Day! Bravo Monsieur Valentino!

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Dean & Dan Caten wonder back to the motherland and escape their wild ways. For Fall/Winter the twin designers focused on building a look for the university chap who needs some life in his wardrobe. Also incorporating the cowboy trend of the season and giving it their randy dandy spin. To open the collection the duo showed their version of this season cardigan. A polo inspired cardigan with a thick collar. I also love the green cardigan paired with a rust colored corduroy pant and contrasting brown wingtips.

To add a little more English flare to the collection, the duo added some Scottish tartan in the lining of jackets and coats. For Fall/Winter the Caten brothers showed loose fit pants, the only tapered or tight fitting pants were their riding pants. This full leg was also used for all of the denim pants along with a wide cuff at the bottom. While most designers in Milan have veered as far from color as they possibly can. The DSquared2 duo jumps at the use of color adding red/rust/orange/pink and purple.

Another first for the brothers this season is there interest in offering strong outerwear. Terrific tweed coats and one coat that is a must have for the season, a camel coat with a dark brown leather trim. As much as I love there use of color, the red and green leather jackets and pants were a little too much.

In the closing section the brothers pulled of a near perfect evening section. In the opening of this section they offered a handful of great day suits. They had 20’s look to them, Gable meet Bogart, strong shoulders and loosely tailored. Other standout looks include the tweed pants paired with tuxedo jackets and tuxedo shirts. The must have pieces of this collection are an of the day suits shown at the close of the show. Bravo Boys!

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At Roberto Cavalli, guests were treated to Louis XVI decorated salon as the backdrop for the runway. As first section of the collection came down the runway, editor and buyers had a confused look on their faces. The designer opted to show a number of modern jackets and suits, which at first glance appeared to be toned down. This modern look did not fit the imagery created by the runway backdrop. Slowly Cavalli added animal furs and prints to the suits. Then attempting to jump into his loud and decadent style in one clean swoop by showing orange and purple patent leather pants.

The second section began to evolve opening with a classic navy overcoat cut below the knee with corduroy pants. But this sophisticated look began to slowly shift as he added this seasons velvet jackets and suits that I have been cringing at. I was favoring a teal velvet jacket with olive corduroy pants. Kimono shirts are a unique find in this collection. Which was shown with a number of brightly colored jackets like the red long overcoat.

In the closing section Cavalli and his wife Eva Duringer escaped the tapered leg pants for evening. Showing a number of tuxedos with a full or baggy leg pant. Overall the Cavalli tuxedo are classic but are shown with a number unique pieces. Like the black sequined tuxedo shirt. Overall the Cavalli collection seemed to be all over the place and as a whole it did not fit the setup of the runway. The must have accessory for this collection are the leather and tweed loafers and wingtips.

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For Fall/Winter 2006 designer John Ray seems to be too glued to this seasons trends. From the neck scarves to his abundant use of velvets. In the first section Ray kept to the trademark Gucci tailored look with a lot of black suits. One of the striking pieces of the opening section was the long overcoat. They had no lapels and Ray draped them so they had a flare from the waist to the hem.

In the second section Ray showed gamine tuxedo shirts with silk vests and sachets around the waist. I did not find the see through dress shirts attractive. The Gucci pant is still tapered but this season they seem to be cut incorrectly. As the models walked the fabric began bustle in the crotch. For the third section the designer again took this seasons Wild West trend. Incorporating plaid shirts and boots.

In the closing section John opted to keep with the classic Gucci tuxedo and then changed the dress shirts and using way too much velvet. Ray was too safe this season with keeping to the season’s trends, its too easy keep to trends and the average buyer will jump at classic pieces rather than spend $500 on a plaid shirt they can get from Miller’s Outpost for $25. I hope next season Ray is able to break out of this protective shell his place himself into. I know the Gucci group is becoming more and more strict but you have learned to handle your employers’ demands.

On a good note I will have say I loved the closing evening coat. A black wool floor length coat lined with dark chocolate mink. Very sexy and yes I know very impractical, but you will see a lot of it in the magazines come August.

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Alexander McQueen takes Romanian mobsters and vamps into a legion of well-dressed patrons to Dracul. In the opening section of McQueen’s collection for Fall/Winter, he reworked the mobster suits of the 30’s into decadent modern looks. The pant legs are heavy; a relaxed look much needed this season. One of the big trends for this collection is the high waist of the pants, the button just above the stomach rather than around the waist. I am growing tired of the skinny pants coming out Milan. McQueen showed the mobster suit in a deep burgundy and gray pinstripe wool fabrics.

After a small section of suits the designer showed a camel trench with a wide lapel. Then McQueen showed a leather trench lined with sheerling topped off a aviator flying suit synonymous with Howard Hughes. The models slowly started to look like vampires as the collection progressed, their eyes gradually getting more and more red.

In the second section of the collection, McQueen showed a number business/evening looks. The satin stripe jackets and pants were a little too matchy. While the classic McQueen tuxedos took new shape with the high waisted pant. A few unique pieces were shown in this section, like the tulle and lace captains jacket, which looked like a black shell on the model. Also note the embroidered overcoat and waistcoat in all black, beading and all.

The collection shifted from the masculine mobster power suits too the vampiric decadence and end with a section of Japanese geisha’s mixed with English fabrics. Inspiration most certainly is being drawn from the movie “Memoirs of Geisha”. The high waisted pant was shown in a large red tartan print, with a full leg. Paired with another beautiful black embroidered jacket. Alexander also showed another tartan outfit, a tartan kimono with red silk sachet.

In the closing section the designer took his black on black embroidered jackets and used white embroidery on the a black jacket and a matching women’s evening gown. McQueen showed a number of women’s gowns in the Japanese geisha section, a subtle hint of what to expect next month in Paris. The must have pieces of this collection is most certainly any of the embroidered jacket and of the pinstripe or tartan pants. As much as I didn’t like it, the big gray cable knit sweater was a bit a change of shape we he might want to explore, especially for us heavy boys! Bravo Monsieur McQueen!

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The Neil Barrett collection for Fall/Winter is all about the jacket. He offered numerous jackets and coats. Two tone jackets and even a tweed/leather bomber jacket. Bombers seemed to be subtly bringing the military theme back into the collection, all though this is a look we saw last season. Military aside I did like the army green tone suit although the pant was tapered.

A bulk of the pants Barrett showed were tapered and skinny, a look that has continue for almost 6 seasons, since Hedi Slimane started using it for Dior. Barrett did offer a full pant that was tapered at the knee. Creating a “s” or hourglass shape for the pant leg. Knitwear has never really been Barrett’s strong suit. This season is no exception! Most of the sweaters Barrett offered were too bulky and the weave of the yarn made the sweater look sloppy.

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For Fall/Winter, Prada creates a simple collection to keep its clientele happy. She season she keeps true to her signature masculine look. Although Prada offered only a handful of standout looks. It’s easy to get districted by the number of pieces and accessories that were a bit out of place. Do I even dare mention the fur-covered helmets?

Miucca’s knitwear for this season did include a few cardigans but the overall look of the knitwear is not defined and drab looking. She did try to throw in a little color this season by offering a faux leopard print coat, which was little to overboard. While she too jumped at this season trend of offering an eel skin suits, as seen at Versace. The Prada pant is still tapered and flat front. This collection is a big step backwards for Prada.

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Of coarse you have read the headlines that Donatella seems be hitting the rewind button a little too far for her Fall/Winter collection. Madam Versace revived the classic 80’s Versace power suits, shoulder pads and all. And I am not talking about womenswear. The opening section of the Versace collection seemed to be offering a new look for its clients. I loved all the wool tweed overcoats and jackets with leather trim on the lapels and hems. I also liked the gray wool suit jacket with leather strips inserted to the body of the jacket. It was a little 80’s but it did not go to far.

At this point of the collection, Versace jumped back to the 80’s. Suits and jackets with big collars, two tone leather bomber jackets (in purple & blue). Then Versace went to far by adding leather inserts to sweaters. I just threw away a similar sweater from the 80’s. Then Donatella got everyone really squirming in their seats. They could stomach the shoulder pads and big collars, but in the closing section she revived the Versace eel skin suits.

Versace had a few great pieces in the opening of the collection but the collection as a whole is wash. A direction that menswear doesn’t need to go. Menswear designers over the past 15 years have worked hard to build new clientèle by slowly giving them what they want and need while slowly adding something new to teach them they can explore and be daring. In one collection Versace just tossed 15 years of hard work out the door. Must I remind Madam Versace that 80’s were really rough for menswear, not to mention the 90’s? Enough Said!

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Missoni has been the label that never veers from its classic color, more color visions. From this motto they created a signature weave design that has been in almost every collection for the past 15 years. This season Luca Missoni took family fashion house through a shift of change while keeping to the family motto. In the program notes, the designer stated she the Duke of Windsor was her inspiration for this collection. Sorry I just don’t see it! What I do see is a very sophisticate and not stuffy at all, collection. With the weave designs and prints coming from an obvious Peruvian and Chilean inspiration.

Missoni opened the collection with a large and small Peruvian design on jackets, knitwear and capes! The jackets are knee length while the Missoni pant is pleated with a baggy leg. Missoni showed a large number of wool pants. I was not to impress by the new Missoni velvet suit, a trend I dislike more and more this season.

In the middle section Luca showed her version of the Swiss Alps sweater, she reworked the classic sweater to meet with her new Chilean designs. Offered on sweaters as well as cardigans. Cardigans are the must have pieces from the Missoni collection. Luca offered different cardigans in each section of the collection, from the Swiss Alps sweaters to the Chilean design.

This collection is most certainly a change from the classic looks we’ve seen in the last couple of years. Luca Missoni was most certainly successful in molding this new look into the Missoni look. Giving us hope that Luca will continue to explore more and build off this successful attempt to reinvent the Missoni graphic design of its work. Bravo Madam Missoni!

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After last seasons lost vision of what would Sander do or what would Simons do; this season is move in the right direction but its not a spot on Sander collection. Designer Raf Simons took the reigns of Sander design team for his first collection for the label.

This season Simons looks for the modern form synonymous with the Sander look and made it more relaxed. Absent in the opening of the collection was the tailored Sander form. Instead the suits and jackets are loose and boxy. While the Sander pant is tapered and flat front; giving the black and gray flannel suits a top-heavy look. The models looked like stick men wear clothing that belonged on a bigger “Ken” doll.

Although bold color is not a Sander signature, Simons did play with pale shades of beige and peach in leather jackets and dress shirts. The standout pieces that Simons created this season are the knitwear, hands down! Simons made sure to concentrate on the form of sweaters while keeping to his color pallet. I particularly liked the wishbone neckline that Simons created.

The must pieces from the collection are most certainly any of the knitwear. In particular the gray cardigan, its rather random that designers are adding cardigans to their collection for Fall/Winter. Right before Christmas I was hunting everywhere for a great cardigan. I miss wearing cardigans. Raf Simons first collection for Jil Sander is a full-hearted attempt. This has to be one of the best collections since Sanders last exit. Bravo Monsieur Simons!

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It looks like Dominico and Stefano are bundling up for a long winter in the Alps. The opening section of their Fall/Winter collection was all wool tweed, herringbone and denim. After about 5 or 6 outfits it became pretty obvious what the inspiration was for this collection. Johnny Depp was all over this collection; it reeked of his south of France bourgeois attire.

In the opening section the designers took wool fabrics in brown and gray pallets and mixed them with denim. Then they began to mix in wool pinstripe fabrics with Denim creating a pinstripe wool pant with a denim waist. The designers added their signature form fitting dress shirts and some great high collar sweaters in brown and gray.

One of the must have suits in this collection is the chocolate wool pinstripe suite. Another great look was their pairing pinstripe jackets with stiff denim pants. From pinstripes the designers shifted to velvet pants and jackets, I have a feeling that Velvet will become a trend fabric for the season, since both D&G and Burberry are using it in the first day of Milan shows.

The designer duo took the day and evening suits and really mixed them up this season. But they also decided to have some fun in their collection. I love the Sergeant Pepper style dress shirts and French military jackets in red, green and blue. The only scary items in this section were the velvet paisley jackets.

In the last section of the Dolce & Gabbana collection, the designers took the classic tuxedo and reminded the clock by mixing classic old west looks with Edwardian details. This is the season to get a perfect Dolce & Gabbana tuxedo; the designer presented so many options you have no idea where to begin. From modern classic jackets paired with pleated full pants or Wild West high waisted jacket with tails in the back. They even presented timeless Edwardian long jacket styles. I did love all the velvet tuxedos, whether it’s a full velvet suit or just a velvet-trimmed jacket.

This is most certainly one of Dolce & Gabanna’s best collections in the last 10 years. It’s decadent with D&G details and sellable look for buyers. The must have items are most certainly any of the Wild West tuxedos, with waist high front and tails in the back. The second must have item from the collection are any of the bulky turtleneck sweaters. Bravo Monsieur Dolce and Monsieur Gabbana.

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Christopher Bailey’s Fall/Winter collection for Burberry is taking gentlemen’s attire back to classic lines, looks and textures. Bailey opened the collection with a large section of gentleman day suits in dark royal blues, black and gray. The Burberry suit was offered in pinstripes and thick black wool. The fashion house is celebrating its 150th anniversary this year and Bailey was able to take the classic Burberry style and remastered it for modern but classic collection of suits.

The Burberry pant is still tapered and the jackets added a mid-60’s mod look to the suits. For this Fall the designer offered an abundant number of long scarves but also silk neck scarves; an accessory that we saw a couple of times during Rio last week. From the dark blue and black suit section, Bailey shifted into more color adding red, copper and rust tones in pants, tops and sweaters. I loved the small argyle pattern sweaters in red and rust. I also felling love with the burgundy loose weave sweater.

The Burberry client will certainly have a large number of jackets and overcoats to choose from next fall. Bailey tailored the evening section to be close fitting, created a hour glass for on the models. I was really excited to see Burberry’s new winter collegiate school jacket, offered in Black and Brown. The quilted jackets, which Bailey did in red, black and brown, they did not fit into the collection.

In the evening section Bailey presented a number of overcoats for the Fall season. Pants for the evening are also tapered but I was not a big fan of the pin striped velvet pants or even the full suit version. Other dislikes include the cheetah prints tops and the herringbone coat. Althoug I did like the fur collar herringbone coat. Overall I found the evening section to be a little to drab.

The must have of the collection are the royal blue Burberry suits. The collection as a whole is very decadent and delicious. Bravo Monsieur Bailey!

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Posted by turlie at 04:14 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)