Last Thursday, Karl Lagrafeld showed his Haute Couture collection for Chanel in Paris. The show was busy street of models wearing a-line gowns and slickers with some of the most beautiful cocktails dress his ever done. One word best describes these little numbers, priceless. Continuing with the Classic Chanel mold, Lagrafeld moved back to the 60’s with the colors and shapes. Whether it be Peach Crepe or large Tartan Wool Tweed, the clients for this season are going to pounding on the Vendue of Chanel’s door.

The one-standout piece in this collection was Black Lace Cocktail Dress with Leather Pants. It was the one piece that was moving the Chanel look ahead. Bravo Masseur Lagrafeld. The overall look of the show was fluid but the hair looked like mops on top of their heads. You can't have everything.

view the collections at style.com

photos thanks to style.com

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First Dior steals Galliano, they fire McQueen because his to Advanced and then they let MacDonald go because his to gaudy. The latest pick Riccardo Tisci, is, well just not Givenchy. Mr. Tisci is a true Italian designer but nothing in the collection screamed Audrey. I think Monsieur Givenchy is at home right now shaking his head in shame. Another blog in Paris who is part of Monsieur St. Laurent circle, commented Monsieur St. Laurent thought the collection was a “travesty for Givenchy, the greatest couturie alive”

The collection was a mix, but a mix with no defining look. At close examination pieces have been molded from other couture houses. Coats from Lacroix, Gowns from Balenciaga and Chanel, Skirt suits from St. Laurent and even one dress that is a Donna Karan cut out. This parade of knock offs is a black blemish on the Givenchy name, history and house.

thank you style for the photos

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Armani showed on Wednesday with mixed reviews from top critics. Without a blink of an eye, one can see that Armani continues to reproduce old pieces. The collection consisted of 7 cocktail pieces, 11 pant pieces and over 35 gowns, too many gowns. Last season Armani did all gowns and was slammed by the Chamber and critics. This collection also shares to many similarities with the Gucci style, Sleek, Sexy and Strong Colors. And here for over 25 years I thought Armani was a great tailor of suites. The Syndical Chamber for Haute Couture should really rethink their decision in honoring Mr. Armani with an invitation to show. I hope the Armani team starts to learn from these two travesties. Three strikes and your out!

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Wednesday, July 6th 2005, Christian Dior designer John Galliano abandoned the world of Haute Street and come back to the classique Haute Couture. Mr. Galliano also returned to his most remembered theatrical presentation of fashion. The runway was a set stage from the ghostly grounds of a French Estate.

The show was homage and restructure of Monsieur Dior’s “New Look”. Mr. Galliano presented several segments which brought the “New Look” shape into a new era. The “Creation” section was a parade of living mannequin’s draped with sensuality and structure. While the Hollywood section was his weakest. The gowns weren’t cut like a Galliano or a Dior and on top was embellishments that screamed Versace. I though I would never use those two in the same review, ever.

Overall the collection was a giant leap forward and a way from the street inspired collections from the last 4 years. There were some hints of the Galliano past in the “Cathrinittes” but the high drama over the “Masked Ball” section brought us back from the old. Two important materials in this collection, is proof that Mr. Galliano can drape and tailor Organza & Crepe like no other. The silk organza “Directrice” pieces were sexy and sophisticated.

Another great item to report is the return of the Supermodels to Haute Couture. Linda Evangelista, Shalom Harlow, Naomi Campbell, Nadja Auermann, Kristy Hume, Eva Horzigova, Erin O’Connor & Stella Tenant. Last season Chanel invited the ladies, this time Mr. Galliano brought back their dramatic walks to bring back his high drama runway settings. Unfortunately they were all featured in the Hollywood section and they tried hard to make those dresses move like a Dior. If only Christy was there………

"Click to View Complete Collection"

thanks to style.com for the images

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On Wednesday Valentino presented his Fall Couture collection in Paris. As usual Mr. Valentino airs to his clients needs. Lunch suits of Wool Tweed trimmed with sable and satin were the top looks for this collection. Also were Mr. Valentino’s long knee length coats. The coats had 60’s lines with a 21st Century cut. Absent from this collection was Valentino’s red dress, instead he showed many black cocktail dress with beading. Although this collection is geared towards providing to his clients, Valentino had no standout theme or look for this show. The show lacked the creativity known in Couture.

"Click to View Complete Collection"

thanks to style.com for the images

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