Silvia Fendi has finally taken a page out of the Lagerfeld textbook and brought a new light into Fendi’s menswear line. Silvia is finally taken herself out of the typical Fendi box and hammered the sides into different angles. She took on trends like fur collars, a lot of knit pieces and even combining knit and fur in one. Another trend she took on was the layering of knits, from a V-neck sweater under a matching knit poncho to knit turtleneck under a cardigan. There were two misses in the collection, first the ruffled tuxedo shirt and second the tapered leg pant. The strongest look and statement out of this collection is the new shapes and lines Fendi is giving its client. Oversized jackets and coats take shape but with clean, straight lines creating a modern shape for Fendi. Overall the collection is the most radical collection Fendi has shown in a while. Delivering strong editorial pieces and more importantly strong pieces for the closet. Thank you Madame Fendi!

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Donatella's color palette for Fall/Winter takes on a new shade. Versace takes her classic magenta, navy blue and burns them giving us burnt magenta and indigo, her new black. Donatella keeps with a lot of the classic versace tailoring and pairing her tailored jackets with leather and tapered leg pants. The look this season could easily be called fabulous mafia, clean and box suits in strong colors. Versace duo hit on one of the new trends "shimmery fabrics and beading" showing several suits in shimmery eel skin fabrics and beaded dress shirts worn with basic black and her burnt indigo suits. One of the highlights of the collection is the combination of matte black silk suit and a beaded black dress shirt. Thank you Donatella for bringing beading back!

View complete collection at Wireimage.com

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I love Frida Giannini, the woman is an italian goddess. I was never big fan of Ford at Gucci but since his exit and Giannini's entrance I have been gushing about Gucci season after season. This season she continues to barrow from the archives but focuses on molding archived prints or pieces into one strong statement for the season. This season Giannini brings out the Gucci Barbarian in all of us, from Gangis Khan to the medieval ages. There is a lot of the leather and fur this season, from bear, beaver to classic shearling. For the models look, the disheveled and smokey eyes one person came to mind, Hiram Keller in Fellini's Satirycon. Now that's sex! Gianini's must have pieces from the collection are the layered belts, leather belt combined with silk sashes. Another strong theme through the collection are the French military outerwear, heavily detailed with embroidery and beading. Bravo Madame Giannini!

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Dean and Dan Caten continue with theatrics with a "Outsiders" collection with a hint of Trainspotting. Clockwork Orange, I don't think so! Let's just get it over with shall we, the whole low crotch jeans trend needs to die. Sadly Caten brothers embraced this pitiful trend to the core this season. The duo hit all of the top trends of the season like an abundance of faux and real fur and my personal favorite the combination of natural and tech fabrics. One of the key pieces of the collection is the black crepe pants with nylon knee pads. One thing is for certain, Dean & Dan can make fur sexy and playful but the heavy leather pants worn with a heavy wool coat is an overworked look. One of my favorite looks in the collection is the black blazer with the lapel and sleeve opening trimmed in beading and paired with a white dress shirt with a red plaid cuff. Missing this season is some leasure wear, everything is hard edges or very stylized and dressed up.

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Angela Missoni delivers a collection for all seasons, riding on the oversized trend hitting Milan she slowly takes Missoni away from the classics. But still touching on classic Milanese styling. Giving us the classic ell skin silk pants contrasted with her heavy weight fabric tops and jackets.There is hint 80's tailoring with an emphasis on lines. Missoni showed oversized coats, suits and even casual leather coats. The only miss of the collection is Missoni's tapered leg pants. She also seems to be steering clear of the classic Missoni weave in favor of the new geometric design sweaters and tops.

View complete collection at Wireimage

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Menswear F/W 08' is underway and so far Dolce & Gabbana opened the week with a strong statement. It's time to get "Oversized"! Everything from oversized and heavy knits, pants coats and even bomber jackets. Some of the key trends are a lot of faux and real fur and Riding Pants. Keep your notebook out - your going to see a lot of riding pants this season. There were a few classic Dolce & Gabbana tailored pieces but fabrics are the highlight this season like the panne velvet jackets and a few pieces with beaded detials. I am starting to like the idea of a beading rebirth! The big miss this season was the endless parade of leather pants in the collection and the real fur.

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Sorry for the long absence. But I am back and gearing up for collections - I apologize for the abrupt absence last season. This season I am going to do something different - focus on key looks and trends. Enjoy!

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