One of the shinning highlights of Paris fashion week is certainly Atsuro Tayama; the light is shining bright at Tayama because of his use of color. This season he takes 60’s tailoring in a shocking Mondrian color palette. The opening section really jumped into the whole Mondrian color palette with a series of outerwear pieces in vibrant shades of blue, red and yellow. This season Tayama gave his outerwear pieces a slight heavy silhouette but he keeps it very tailored to the body. The second section has more day pieces including a emphasis on prints and bold designs and prints. From mod prints to mod style striping or color blocking in diamond shapes. One of the standout pieces is a black and red zigzag and diamond silk merino knit dress with heavy cashmere knit collar. For the third section he gets a little more serious and a little flashy at the same time. Like the sequined jacket and a series of plaid wool jackets and skirts. One of the standout looks is a red-patent leather jacket with a Cardin wide collar worn with a short black and red tartan design wool skirt.

Tayama shifts back to a mod look with a series of solid color wool outerwear pieces tailored in Pierre Cardin silhouette. One of the standout outerwear pieces is a black and white plaid wool overcoat with a ¾ length sleeve and wide Cardin collar. For the fourth section Tayama switches again to a more playful silhouette with shorted dresses and showing more skin with halter-top dresses and plunging necklines. Atsuro also uses a reworked paisley print that is concentrated in one color after another. The closing section is a series of bubble shape pieces, from jackets to dresses and skirts. The tailoring earlier in the collection is such a strong statement, the bubble shape pieces really subtract from the whole vision of the collection. But Tayama closed with one of the strongest knit pieces from the Paris Fashion Week. Light gray cashmere knit dress with a high ribbed knit collar.

The must have pieces from the collection are two perfect editorial pieces. First is one of Tayama’s outerwear pieces in the opening section. A bright blue wool overcoat with rolled collar. The front of the coat is sculpted into layered shape that is reminiscent of Cardin styles from the 60’s. The other must have piece from the collection is one of the paisley print dresses. A sleeveless tunic dress done in a black/red/white paisley print on silk jersey. The plunging neckline and hem of the skirt are timed in wide ban black silk jersey. What I really took away from this collection is the first ¾ of the collection is such a strong statement and clear vision for Tayama. His eye for tailoring is clearly defined, focused and executed. Sadly the end of the collection was moving in a wrong direction. Overall Tayama gave us collection of endless bold looks and pieces. Thank you for no giving us a sea of black! Bravo Monsieur Tayama!

View complete collection at Wireimage

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