This season Alexander McQueen focused on his more playful side showing a collection drawing inspiration from beach culture and the surfer rebel. Models had frazzles and sculpted hair but the sun kissed makeup and styling you soft but energized by the sun. The opening section was full of playful prints like polka dots. Post show the McQueen even commented on his downtime along the ocean side. One of the standout looks in the opening section is a pale brown/white polka dot print shorts suit. A matching blazer and shorts in the same polka dot fabric is paired with basic white dress shirt finished with a matching polka dot tie. Another highlight of the collection in the opening section are the bowling shoes McQueen showed in several bright color combinations. In the second section he takes the bowling reference another step with several bowling and letterman jackets from 50’s worn with long pants. Of coarse worn with a bowling shoe!

While you can see a lot of 80’s references throughout the collection it’s the little details that really stand out. This season McQueen showed a lot of typical fabrics but his use of synthetics is starting to increase more and more. Another strong statement McQueen made this season is his prints, while they are not bold and shocking, they really blend well with a lot of shock pieces. In the third section McQueen increased his use of prints, prints on everything from shorts, jackets and shirts. He also showed a series of knit pieces that really took on a different look. First is a white wide neck soft cotton knit sweater with stripes of blue around the neck and bottom of the sweater. The look is finished with a blue and white gingham shirt and pale lavender short! I don’t know its just me, I love the pale lavender shorts. The other standout knit pieces was a stretched out 80’s design sweater worn really low and the sleeves covering the hands. It’s a crazy sweater but I love the color combinations and the strong statement of color! I wish we could have seen more of the colors in the collection.

For the fourth section McQueen showed more sheen, with a few leather pieces and lycra tops and silk blend blazers. The closing section was a series of mafia style suit looks with the models drenched with water. This section was the only drab section in the collection. The must have pieces from the collection are two of McQueen’s printed overcoats. First up, is the tan/army green photo print on a twill overcoat worn with a orange and white short. The other overcoat is a 60’s style pop log print of uplifting words on white twill overcoat. The styling of the collection is a little hit or miss. McQueen gave us a few key look that can define the Spring/Summer season, but there are several groupings that are just stale. For example the closing section of drenched male models in black mafia style suits with no shoes on! Color and prints are the key statements in this collection, not to mention McQueen’s lean silhouette. Lee abandons the full silhouette this season in favor for a short more light collection, more skin for McQueen! Bravo Monsieur McQueen!

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V Magazine had photographers Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin shoot 34 of the top models to date. Everyone from Shalom Harlow to Natasha Poly. Only a small batch of the photo's are available for view right now, you can see the complete collection by click on the image below. Of coarse I love the photo of Christy and Snejana. Sadly Hillary Rhoda's photo has not been released yet. I must say the both Christy and Nejana look better not made up!

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To open there Spring/Summer collection designers Dominico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana move back to black and the basics. The collection started with a series of basic black suits, with a classic fit pant leg. The duo steered clear of the baggy pant leg, their pants were tailored with a clean straight drape with no tapering to the ankle. For the second section they moved the color palette to more earth shades of gray and browns but keeping with a tailored silhouette even in the looks for day. One of the highlights of this section is leather pieces. One of the standout leather pieces is a black leather bomber jacket, which they reconstructed to look like a football pad gear. They layered pieces of leather to mimic the construction of the gear. A unique and big piece for the duo. For the third section they focus on softer natural shades and even natural fabrics. One of the standout pieces is a natural cotton linen blazer in a soft brown. The look is finished with a lightweight organic cotton shirt and a matching scarf around the neck.

Another great leather pieces is in the third section. A very pale brown subdue bomber jacket, which is detailed with wide strips of black leather. The shoulder, zip opening and the front pockets are trimmed with wide band of black leather. The look is finished with a pair of heavy pale brown cotton pant brushed to velvet texture. The fourth section is basic Dolce & Gabbana utility look of satin pants and more heavy leather pieces. Then moving into the must have is tan models in nothing but underwear. For the fifth section the duo showed more prints, from floral designs to 60’s geometric style prints. One of the standout looks was a combination of two prints. The shirt is a black and tan wave design print on silk crepe with a black silk collar and cuffs. The shorts are a silk and cotton blend with a 60’s geometric design print in earthy tones of olive green to mocha brown. For the final section they move back to a more casual look and color palette with a lot of white and off-whites shades used for more suits and shorts combination then moving into a series of black tuxedos.

Dolce & Gabbana has embraced one of the new trends of the season, the skinny tie; everyone is showing the skinny tie. One of the must have looks is silk gunmetal gray suit. The matching blazer and pant are trimmed in black on pockets, and lapel. The look is completed with a black silk shirt and black skinny tie. The other must have piece from the collection is one of wild leather jackets, an alligator leather jacket-dyed olive green. The collection is still pulling from past season, like the mad max or western theme in several pieces. The duo are still molding the on their classic Dolce & Gabbana man but what’s missing from the collection was a sense of adventure they exhibited last season. Especially in the womens collection! They seem to be on holiday this season while their design team barrowed from the archives. I would love to have seen the print section really expand this season.

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Bailey is alive with color for Spring/Summer! Bailey opens the collection with a series of models wearing neoprene shoes and matching neoprene jackets and trench coats. The colors shocking and breathtaking, from bright orange, aqua or yellow. Bailey also played with a lot of texture in the opening tops. While I did not like the silver lame pieces I fell in love with the colorful palette pieces. Like the bright yellow palette covered top. One of the big misses this season is the tailoring in his pants. Something is not sitting too well in those Burberry pants! The crotch really rides low on the model; Bailey had this problem last season. Another trend that Bailey embraced this season is the short cropped hem of the pants, a trend designers are embracing thank in part Monsieur Duckie Browne. I like the short length of the pants because they actually showed off one of the powerful pieces of the collection. The new Burberry Sandal!

The second section is more covered up with a focus on color combination. One of the only misses in this section was Bailey venture back techno blue. One of the strong color pieces from this section is the mustard yellow silk blend top. The top is a little military in style but the color decadent. Another great outerwear pieces in the second section is the clear black plastic overcoat. The front of the coat is lined black satin creating a black strip in the front of the coat while the rest of the coat is see-through. Bailey used a lot of synthetics this season, is a strong statement for tomorrow. Nor consumption of organics, but then again are these synthetics biodegradable.

The must have pieces for the collection are two of Burberry’s outerwear pieces, isn’t it always! You can never have enough jackets! First is one of the bold trench coats from the opening of the collection. A bright, bright aqua wool trench coat. The body of the jacket is tailored close on the torso, what is great about this jacket is the broad tailoring in the shoulders. The other must have piece is one of the neoprene overcoats. The coat is pale brown neoprene overcoat detailed with black leather trimming the opening of coat and sleeve cuff and a single stripe down side of the sleeve. Bailey opened the show with such happiness of color and then slowly he cowered away from color. He continues his love for experimenting with fabrics and reworking construction. He even takes classic Burberry pieces and morphs them into futuristic pieces. Fashion forward but it’s just those darn pants that are holding Bailey back, the junk in the front needs to go! Overall Bailey had a lot of strong pieces for Spring/Summer. Bravo Monsieur Bailey!

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Designer Ennio Capasa takes on a spa vacation for Spring/Summer, the looks at Costume National more relaxed this season and very monochromatic. The pants this season are tight on the leg and even the sleeves on the jackets and blazers are tailored tight on the arm. The highlight is classic long sleeve pieces that have been worked with a short-capped sleeve for spring. One of the standout pieces in the opening section was a pale gray synthetic fabric-driving jacket. The jacket has a short sleeve and no collar. Another highlight of the opening section is low v-necklines on the sheer and light tops. One of the standout pieces is a light knit sweater with long sleeves. The knit top is pieces together with a sheer weave stripe contrasted with a slightly heavier knit.

The second section moves towards a brown color palette with an emphasis on lighter shades of brown mixed with soft shades of gray. One of the standout looks in this section is a two-piece favorite of mine that really takes on a new comfortable and less strict look for Costume National. Capasa showed light off-white jersey top with plunging v-neck line with a linen drawstring pant. The pant has a baggy loose fit, which matches the draped silhouette of the top. The closing section of the collection is a series of soft and white looks moving into classic all black National style looks. One of the standout pieces in the closing section is not the classic Costume National tuxedo. Instead it’s the white silk blend overcoat. The coat is double breasted with a slight trench coat silhouette.

The must have looks are from the closing section of the collection. Of coarse I have to pick one the classic black and white looks for Costume National. A basic white dress shirt but with a short sleeve that rolled up higher. The shirt paired with the trend of the season a black and gray skinny tie and to key to the look a black linen loose leg pant with a drawstring waist. The other must have look is the pale ecru linen blend suit worn with a black skinny tie. I was delighted to see Ennio Capasa really jump out of the constraints of the Costume National “look”. His new vision of a more relaxed and younger look is a great direction for the brand. While he still focuses on great tailoring the overall statement is more powerful. Bravo Monsieur Capasa!

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Luca Missoni’s Spring/Summer inspiration is an adventure into exploring more bold graphics to build on the complex vision of the Missoni family. This season Missoni opens the Pandora box of graphics and the result a seas of strong colors and marine shapes and tricking the eye. The opening section is a vast body of blue pant looks. From solid color pants to complex print pants. Missoni takes stripes, bubble shapes, complex line designs and arched shapes and mixes these graphics in similar color families like all blues, yellow or pinks. One of the key pieces in the opening section of the collection is a lightweight silk knit cardigan. The sleeves are done in a blue and white knit with the body of the cardigan covered in lava lamp bubble design. The second section has a few more shorts looks with the color palette shifting into a summer palette of yellows, light brown and orange. One of the standout pieces in this section is a simple light blue and white strip crewneck t-shirt with a silkscreen prints of a whale and octopus. The look is complete with a pair of lightweight pale yellow cotton cargo pants.

The third section shifts back to a blue color palette and even some black. One of the highlight combinations of this section is the bold Parisian stripe crepe shirt. Missoni mixes the colors in the stripe print and then contrasts the shirt with squared off twill tie with a wider strip design. One of these key looks was a blue/aqua/black Parisian stripe shirt worn with a matching silk knit cardigan with the same stripe design. I love how Missoni twisted the sleeves of the sweater into a long winding knot and draped it over the shoulders.

The must have look from the collection is one of trick print pieces of the collection. From a far this print appears as a simple gingham design. Up-close it’s a complex chevron design. The look is a short sleeve shirt and long slack done in a aqua version of the chevron/gingham print. The shirt lapels and shoulder are finished in a dark version of the print and the look is complete with a matching silk knit cardigan knotted around the shoulders and dark blue print tie. Every season Luca Missoni gives us more and more, he seems to be opening a new door each season. This season is no different, the reference to the marine world are literal and silent at time. His eye for color combinations is the strongest statement for the season. I want more Aqua and Yellow in my life. Bravo Monsieur Missoni!

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Shimada’s Fall/Winter inspiration is a young and playful look, the seasons are getting hotter so the color palette dabbles into a spring color wheel. The opening section is all bright and vibrant colors. Shimada’s knits are a mix between cashmere and angora done vibrant multi-color South American prints. One best example of these sweaters is a wide neckline cashmere and angora blend sweater with the South American design done in black, yellow and brown on a white background. The look is finished with a powered blue silk satin top and a yellow knee-length skirt with a white lace shell that has been embroidered with black bubbles. This combination look was shown in several different color combinations. Another great combination is the south America design done in red/purple/green and blue on a pink background. The powder blue skirt is shorter and done in pencil skirt silhouette with a white lace shell and black embroidered bubbles.

The second section is all about texture and print, Shimada showed a series of knee-length skirt and dress looks. She even included more prints in to the collection, from paisley and gradient prints paired with feather top or detailing. The third section moves back to knits and the knits get heavier. The skirt is shorter and shockingly enough the designer pops out two leather looks. First a bellow the knee leather trench coat with a wide lapel and collar. The other look is a wide lapel and collar bomber jacket worn with a honey yellow silk lame pencil skirt. Both leather jackets are done in very rich honey orange leather. For the evening section Shimada moves to a black and white palette. She experiments with showing several sexy black dresses with very little embellishments. One piece did stick out like a sore thumb, the Marcel Marceau diamond print jacket.

Some designers really jump out with one of the hottest accessories for the season. This season Junk Shimada showed a her looks with a new Japanese and 40’s inspired heel. I cannot rave enough about these heels. It’s a cross between the 40’s boxy open toed heels with a Japanese style platform heel. Shimada kept of the 40’s references and made them pop by doing all the heels in vibrant silk satin. My favorites are the two-tone heels with the matching fabric rosette on top. The key or hot colors are the vibrant and rich purple silk satin shoe and the emerald green version.

One of the must have looks is a cascading ruffle skirt worn with a feather covered collarless jacket. The skirt is done in a black and mauve gradient print, which matches the gray and mauve feathers on the jacket. The other must have looks is Shimada’s 40’s style polka-dot cocktail dress. A black sheer knit dress is covered in a sheer silk tulle fabric with white polka dots and the edges are scalloped and finished in white hem. Of coarse to complete the look you need Shimada’s emerald green silk satin heel. Shimada’s collection for Fall is a bright relief from all the black we’ve seen from New York to Paris. The collection is youthful and really sends a strong statement to Parisian women. Young and playful is not a look for Spring/Summer. Bravo Madame Shimada!

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Sherlock Holmes meets Katherine Hepburn, masculine chic with a girly twist! To open the collection designer Frankie Xie focused on a literal translation of both Holmes and Hepburn. From the high waisted pant looks or the detective style cape coats and ponchos. The color palette is very earthy from brown to greens and dark grays. One of the literal looks was a tight Windsor check brown wool coat. The sleeves are cropped to half-length and the body of the jacket is tailored in a straight line. For the second section Xie starts to focus on more knit pieces in each look. One of my favorites knit pieces from this section is a powder blue cashmere cable knit poncho style sweater. The hem of the sweater is styled on a bias creating a bell shape to the poncho. The look is topped of long white cashmere scarf and a pair of Xie’s wide draped leg Windsor check pant.

This season Frankie Xie played with new draping and emphasized on volume on a few looks. One key piece in the second section is a cropped Windsor check wool jacket. The opening of the jacket is draped at the front and tied off with a waist belt. The third section has more of tailored look and in a very strict color palette of black/gray and white. One of the standout pieces in this section is a gray silk taffeta mini dress. He pairs a box shape neckline with the box shape mini sleeves on the shoulder. The bottom of the dress has black silkscreen print of a garden silhouette. For the evening section Frankie chose to move away from natural color and gives us rich black velvet and purple satin pieces. The first half of the collection is very strong and clearly defined. Xie tried to experiment with several looks and styles through out the collection. The closing section was a big miss with the metallic baby doll dresses. There was a little color in the collection with purple in the evening and emerald green in the opening section. If the designer had incorporated these great colors in more of the collection the collection would have really popped out at the buyers and editors.

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Sonia Rykiel opened the collection with a lot of volume and knits. Cloud like silhouettes, draped lines and short as can be for Rykiel, right above the knee. In the second section Sonia toys between her cloud silhouette and her classic Parisian tailoring and keeps the color palette very muted in most of looks. She does introduce one print into the collection a black and tan peacock feather print similar to a moiré taffeta design. She used the print on a draped wool overcoat. The collar and sleeves are over draped creating a heavy look to the coat. Another great outerwear piece is on of Rykiel’s black wool cropped opera coat. The over draped body of the coat and wide set collar is new Parisian chic with a shorter length.

This season Rykiel did show a lot of black on the runway, a classic for Rykiel. The silhouette in the third section is all over the place; from the draped jackets to the sheer spider knit dresses or the loose print pieces. One of the best pieces in this section is one of the spider-knit dresses, which Rykiel covered with embroidery and beaded cartoon figures like Betty Boop. Simple smock dress the cartoon details and the shock of hot pink on the dress popped on the runway. For the evening section Sonia played with several wide leg pantsuit looks and even barrowed last seasons rosette and ruffles details. The last series of multi-color faux fur jackets are an “it” piece for the season. Rykiel touched on every color from mauve, hot pink, black and navy blue. My favorite is the sleeveless olive green faux fur jacket worn with a olive green cashmere turtleneck dress.

For must have pick at Rykiel I have chosen to very basic pieces but strong pieces. First is a pair of Sonia’s black silk crepe baggy leg pant with matching black crepe suspenders. The other must have piece is the stone white wool trench coat. The coat has a box shape shoulder and the bottom of the coat is flared from the hip. Some of the strongest pieces from Rykiel this season are not her signature Parisian bundled up looks, instead its her skimpier pieces in the collection. Overall the collection has endless number options for the Rykiel client, from her finely tailored outerwear pieces to her chic baggy leg pant suits or her new less is more pop print dresses. Bravo Madame Rykiel!

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One of the shinning highlights of Paris fashion week is certainly Atsuro Tayama; the light is shining bright at Tayama because of his use of color. This season he takes 60’s tailoring in a shocking Mondrian color palette. The opening section really jumped into the whole Mondrian color palette with a series of outerwear pieces in vibrant shades of blue, red and yellow. This season Tayama gave his outerwear pieces a slight heavy silhouette but he keeps it very tailored to the body. The second section has more day pieces including a emphasis on prints and bold designs and prints. From mod prints to mod style striping or color blocking in diamond shapes. One of the standout pieces is a black and red zigzag and diamond silk merino knit dress with heavy cashmere knit collar. For the third section he gets a little more serious and a little flashy at the same time. Like the sequined jacket and a series of plaid wool jackets and skirts. One of the standout looks is a red-patent leather jacket with a Cardin wide collar worn with a short black and red tartan design wool skirt.

Tayama shifts back to a mod look with a series of solid color wool outerwear pieces tailored in Pierre Cardin silhouette. One of the standout outerwear pieces is a black and white plaid wool overcoat with a ¾ length sleeve and wide Cardin collar. For the fourth section Tayama switches again to a more playful silhouette with shorted dresses and showing more skin with halter-top dresses and plunging necklines. Atsuro also uses a reworked paisley print that is concentrated in one color after another. The closing section is a series of bubble shape pieces, from jackets to dresses and skirts. The tailoring earlier in the collection is such a strong statement, the bubble shape pieces really subtract from the whole vision of the collection. But Tayama closed with one of the strongest knit pieces from the Paris Fashion Week. Light gray cashmere knit dress with a high ribbed knit collar.

The must have pieces from the collection are two perfect editorial pieces. First is one of Tayama’s outerwear pieces in the opening section. A bright blue wool overcoat with rolled collar. The front of the coat is sculpted into layered shape that is reminiscent of Cardin styles from the 60’s. The other must have piece from the collection is one of the paisley print dresses. A sleeveless tunic dress done in a black/red/white paisley print on silk jersey. The plunging neckline and hem of the skirt are timed in wide ban black silk jersey. What I really took away from this collection is the first ¾ of the collection is such a strong statement and clear vision for Tayama. His eye for tailoring is clearly defined, focused and executed. Sadly the end of the collection was moving in a wrong direction. Overall Tayama gave us collection of endless bold looks and pieces. Thank you for no giving us a sea of black! Bravo Monsieur Tayama!

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This season Valli’s inspiration is a cross between American Prairie and Parisian decadence. A heavy constructed silhouette! But first I have to get this out, “Carol Ann walk to the light”, those hats, come on! The opening section is a series of black looks with a few prints pieces here and there. The lengths of the dresses are short while the outerwear pieces are long and the pant leg is straight to the floor. One of the strongest outerwear statements in the opening section is the print pieces. One great piece is black/white/yellow modern print on a heavy wool fabric. The coat is collarless and has a ¾ length sleeve with a bubble shape cuff. Another great look from the opening section is Valli’s bell-bottom pantsuit. The pants have slim tailored leg down to the knee and then Valli flares the fabric to the floor in a bell bottom shape. The matching jacket is tightly tailored in the sleeve and torso.

In the second section Valli shifts to a black and white color palette and the emphasis is on blacking the black and white pieces or incorporating more prints. The inspiration for the prints is certainly taken from St. Laurent’s animal and pop prints from the 80’s. While the color blocking is derived from Mondrian’s artwork. The third section is more of the same shapes but the designer gets frilly and girly. Adding tight layers of ruffles or bundles of feathers on top or the hem of dresses. While I find these pieces are take inspiration from past seasons, Valli’s craftsmanship and choice of fabrics really make the pieces and looks standout. One of the best examples is Valli’s black and white contrast bubble print silk cocktail dress. The top of the dress is covered in black and white quail feathers down to the bottom of the bust line. The bust line of the dress is trimmed with a black velvet ribbon and bow, which then connects to the black/white print skirt. Another strong cocktail dress in the evening section is a short length empire waist cocktail dress in black silk taffeta. The top of the dress is covered in large black crystals. Valli gives the dress small caps on the shoulder, reminiscent of the shoulder cap at Lagerfeld’s last collection for Chanel.

Valli’s must have outerwear piece from the collection is his wide set collar overcoat. The coat is done in a black and purple version of the contrast bubble print on silk taffeta. The other must have piece from the collection is his white strapless silk crepe cocktail dress worn with a side black belt around the waist. The bust line of the dress is covered in layers of tight white ruffles and pleats. The only color piece in the collection was a red silk taffeta dress. The statement for this collection is to bring back the little dress and give us a girly and playful looks. While I loved the constraint of the black and white color palette, I could only imagine how much more powerful the collection would have been with more color. In the end the collection is a great féte! Bravo Monsieur Valli!

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Galliano’s recent Fall/Winter Couture collection was not a show stopping parade of devastating design and vision. Instead Galliano distracted the attendee’s with some seldom seen faces on the catwalk. Naomi and Shalom are not models to write home about, they’ll show up at the drop of an invitation from Galliano. Instead it was two other former supermodels, one took to old tactics and the other reemerged from seclusion. First up was the infamous chameleon taking another swing at being a red-head! Linda Evangelista dyed her hair red prior to show; some gossiped that she jumped back to red to stand out over the shocking return of Karen Mulder to the runway.

Mulder, one of the blond bombshells of the late 80’s supermodel wave which carried into the 90’s, she abandoned the runway and fashion world after a long battle with depression, a suicide attempt that put her in a coma and failed attempt at music career. In late 2006 Mulder gave birth to her daughter Anna and after her almost 10 year hiatus she reemerged on the couture runways. Now as much as I love Linda for attempting to bring back the red, it’s such a desperate attempt to one-up Karen. Karen Mulder takes the crown for best entrance for the new season of shows. Now I would love to see Karen at Chanel.

Another big return to the runway at the Dior Couture show was the triumphant return of the black hair vixen Mariacarla Boscono. She’s has been absent from the runways for the last two seasons. Although Galliano continues is excessive need to reinvent Dior’s new look, this season the collection was a dud. The show stopping parade of supermodels was the only card he could play. Galliano seemed to have phoned it in this season. While I adore the trumpet return of Mulder and Boscono, the collection lacked drive or direction. Even the models makeup made this point. Galliano is known for visionary partnership with Pat McGrath but this season only regular models had some sort of paint on their faces. While their mentors appeared fresh faced for the perfect photo ops! Some have even blamed the blasé collection on the recent passing of Galliano’s right hand man Steven Robinson. There might be some truth to this notion as Galliano has always been the personality of the design team while Robinson gave it energy and life. We miss you Steven Robinson, we really do!

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A long awaited collection; the first collection for Olivier Theyskens was a combined inspiration of the swan lake ballet with Theyskens aesthetic of a relaxed silhouette with an American sportswear feel. The opening section is a series of heavy knit pieces and then moving into sculpted pant and skirt looks. One of the strong knit pieces in the opening section is a pale gray cashmere/angora ribbed knit dress with long sleeve. The hem of the skit is finished with scalloped knit shape. The color palette is soft shades of white, pale grays moving into black and darker grays. Theyskens opted for a skinny leg pant for the season. Another great pieces from the opening section are the white bias zip front jersey jacket worn with a matching light knit bias neckline top.

In the second section Theyskens moves away from a structured silhouette into a series of draped dress’s/gowns and oversized sweaters/coats. One of the key knit pieces in this section is a thick weave gray angora poncho. The poncho is knit with a scalloped hem and worn with an ankle length gray jersey dress. In the third section Theyskens shifts back to a structure look and focuses on matching pieces like skirt and blazer combinations. One of these combination looks is in the evening section a floor length gray silk crepe gown embellished with stripes of silver crystals and stripes of crepe-covered buttons. .

What is really lacking in the first three sections is a strong statement or looks that Theyskens is known for. Its not until the evening section that we start to see Theyskens really start to loosen up. The evening section is his classic floor length Theyskens silhouettes and the emphasis is on draping fabrics and emphasizing different parts of the body, like a draped bust line. One of the show stopping gowns the exhibit this is one of Theyskens origami style gowns at the close of the collection. A white silk chiffon and crepe gown with stiff swirls of fabric draped around the bus line and arm. The seaming and stiff swirls are embellished with white ostrich feathers. Another great evening look are Theyskens floor length stripe silk chiffon gowns. The gowns are constructed with strips of chiffon draped on a bias. One of the standout gowns is a white and yellow silk chiffon gown that he pieces the strips of white chiffon with yellow chiffon.

The two must have pieces from the evening section are two contrast looks for Theyskens. First is one of Theyskens bias opening leather jackets. The leather is oil treated and the opening is places on side of the hip and zips up to the opposite shoulder. The other must have piece is one of stiff swirl gowns. The gown is a strapless floor length gown that Theyskens drapes with tiers of cascading colored silk chiffon. The tiers move from a pale yellow at the bust line to lime green at the hem of the gown. This collection is certainly more of a Theyskens collection rather than a Nina Ricci collection. For the past decade the House of Ricci has struggled to really get a designer to come in and really define the Ricci woman for today. Finally the House has realized that they just need a designer who can come in with their own image and build the house back up and slowly start to reference Madame Ricci later on. Even Lagerfeld didn’t start at the House of Chanel by mimicking the classic tweed suits. Bravo Monsieur Theyskens!

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