Martini’s inspiration for Fall/Winter is a mix between an English Burberry style and with an American sportswear silhouette. The opening section is a series of looks incorporating a lot of decadent fabrics like velvet, tweed, wool and denim. The silhouette in this section is very strict. The pants are tight on the leg, a trend that is slowly dying. The highlight of the opening is the outerwear pieces. One of these standout outerwear pieces is a gray tweed overcoat with strict silhouette and the opening of the coat offset. The coat appears heavy even with the turtleneck collar. The second section moves away from the strict silhouette and plays with a more American sportswear silhouette with looser shapes and straight leg pant. One great look is Martini’s straight leg pant in brown wool tweed and topped with a brown jersey hooded top with a plunging neckline.

Martini keeps to heavy fabrics but the color palette stays in neutrals with a lot of browns and whites. One of the miss looks is the parka style leather jacket. Another great look from the second section is a pair of Martini’s brown tweed pants worn with a calf length off white knit cardigan and brown knit jersey top. The third section has Martini moving back to a stricter silhouette with several tapered leg pant looks. He also tailors the gowns and cocktail dresses for evening very close opts for the perfect black dress or gown. One of the bold pieces of the collection is a black-brushed wool coat. The coat has a strong shoulder and the opening is offset and hemmed at the knee. A classic piece and certainly a big sell for Martini. The second section is certainly the highlight of the collection. It would have been great to see Martini and his design team, focus on the new silhouette of the seasons, which he touched on lightly and abandoned the strict silhouette he used through out the collection.

View complete collection at Wireimage

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