June 2007 Archives


June 29, 2007

PARIS Women’s F/W 07 – AKRIS

Albert Kriemier’s Fall/Winter collection opened with ruffles! A slow start! The opening section is slinky black with a lot of sheen silks trimmed in delicate ruffles. He opens with a lot of all black looks and then shifts into a dark gray looks. The shape and silhouette is very close to the body, from the skirts and dresses to the outerwear pieces. I really love the pieces with the tiers of black faux fur layered vertically on black crepe and chiffon. One of the standout pieces in the opening section is a knee-length long sleeve dress; the black chiffon is covered in the tiers of fur. The dress look is topped with a deep indigo wool sleeveless safari jacket. The second section jumps out of the dark palette and into shocks of color like magenta and soft shades of white. The silhouette slightly loosens up but I don’t like the little fabric box pieces.

In the third section Kriemier moves back to grays and blacks and the silhouette tightens up again. But the designer starts to add heavy volume top pieces to the looks. For evening he focuses on giving the looks more shine and depth with a few print pieces. One of the must have pieces is a white wool overcoat with a black chiffon shell. I know the piece is a copy from the Dolce & Gabbana collection, but Kriemier’s gives the coat modern construction rather than voluptuous sculpted silhouette at D&G. The other must have piece from the collection is one of the black chiffon cocktail dresses covered in tiers of faux fur trim in black. This dress is unique because Albert spaced the tiers adding more lines to the dress. The inspiration for the collection is fluid. While there was very little color in the collection Albert’s detailed fabrics and clean silhouette are a marriage. He opted to steer clear of this season’s looser shape but a lot of the strongest looks in the collection are some of his heavily detailed piece looks. I felt the collection was perfect just as is, no need for more color and no need for more volume. Bravo Monsieur Kriemier!

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June 28, 2007

Milan Women’s F/W 07 – ALVIERO MARTINI

Martini’s inspiration for Fall/Winter is a mix between an English Burberry style and with an American sportswear silhouette. The opening section is a series of looks incorporating a lot of decadent fabrics like velvet, tweed, wool and denim. The silhouette in this section is very strict. The pants are tight on the leg, a trend that is slowly dying. The highlight of the opening is the outerwear pieces. One of these standout outerwear pieces is a gray tweed overcoat with strict silhouette and the opening of the coat offset. The coat appears heavy even with the turtleneck collar. The second section moves away from the strict silhouette and plays with a more American sportswear silhouette with looser shapes and straight leg pant. One great look is Martini’s straight leg pant in brown wool tweed and topped with a brown jersey hooded top with a plunging neckline.

Martini keeps to heavy fabrics but the color palette stays in neutrals with a lot of browns and whites. One of the miss looks is the parka style leather jacket. Another great look from the second section is a pair of Martini’s brown tweed pants worn with a calf length off white knit cardigan and brown knit jersey top. The third section has Martini moving back to a stricter silhouette with several tapered leg pant looks. He also tailors the gowns and cocktail dresses for evening very close opts for the perfect black dress or gown. One of the bold pieces of the collection is a black-brushed wool coat. The coat has a strong shoulder and the opening is offset and hemmed at the knee. A classic piece and certainly a big sell for Martini. The second section is certainly the highlight of the collection. It would have been great to see Martini and his design team, focus on the new silhouette of the seasons, which he touched on lightly and abandoned the strict silhouette he used through out the collection.

View complete collection at Wireimage

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Milan Women’s F/W 07 – C’N’C COSTUME NATIONAL

Ennio Capasa inspiration for Fall/Winter is a new world look. The body is covered and the look is layered but a strict silhouette. The opening section is all black and moving into some grays. One of the standout pieces is a black textured and treated leather biker jacket. The second section has a hint of color in one red piece in a sea of gray looks and then shift back into a sea of black. Capasa opted to show an abundant number of outerwear this season although the only fluid statement is a more of edgy/utility look to the outerwear pieces. The outerwear pieces are detailed with straps; decadent fabrics like suede or draped with a new shape like a long front and cropped back. Another great piece is Capasa’s dark olive green bushed wool jacket. The jacket is loose on the torso and cropped at the waist. The sleeves are over draped with the collar done in turtleneck style.

cncfw07 3.png The third section has more red pieces added to the collection and a few persimmon color pieces. Sadly the shape or silhouette Ennio worked toward in the closing section is full but its created by a bubble hem on a skirt or jacket. One of the standout dress looks in the collection is a long sleeve black cashmere knit dress with a turtleneck. The front of the dress is designed with two zipper openings running from the neck to the hem. Another key look from Capasa is the loosely tailored suit in the closing section. A loosely tailored mens blazer worn with a straight full leg pant, with the highlight of the collection being the outerwear pieces, the complete look of layered tops under tightly tailored outerwear pieces was too busy and too confusing. There are a few great retail pieces but editorially the collection is missing those bold pieces. Although the black knit dresses with strips of black leather, also missing is a variance of color. I would love to have seen more pieces play with the red and persimmon colors.

View complete collection at Wireimage

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Milan Women’s F/W 07 – ALBERTA FERRETTI

To open her Fall/Winter 07’ collection, designer Alberta Ferretti toned it down. She focused on full silhouette in a dark color palette with only one color splashed on the opening section, a dark shade of emerald. Ferretti did take up a few of this season trends like the heavy outerwear pieces and her print looks. One of the standout outerwear pieces is the draped black wool coat with the sleeve over draped with a bubble shape hem. The coat is belted below the bust line creating a pleat on the coat. For the second section Alberta introduced brown in the color palette with an emphasis on brown leather, beading and prints. One of the key leather pieces is a classic a-line light brown leather coat. The collar is oversized with metal studs detailing the front seaming and covering the collar, pocket openings and sleeve cuffs.

Then, Ferretti moves back to black for the third section with mild shades of gray. Overall this section is a little less inspired than the previous sections. The highlight of the collection are the closing evening looks, from the playful feather detailed black cocktail dresses or the gorgeous column evening gowns in black. The gowns are highlighted by prints, feathers, moiré taffeta, velvet and heavy beading. On the best cocktail dresses is a black silk chiffon simple sleeveless tube dress covered in the deco style bead design. Another great evening look is a square shoulder layered evening gown. Ferretti’s sunset print layered with black tulle beaded and trimmed in black ostrich feathers. The top of the gown is detailed with a beaded deco design.

The must have pieces from the collection are two of Ferretti bold cocktail dresses. First is one of Ferretti’s deco style beaded gowns. The dress is a caramel color knit dress covered in a layer of sheer black chiffon covered in the heavily beaded deco design, top to bottom. The other must have piece is one of Ferretti’s feather cocktail dresses. A box shape a-line dress with ¾ length sleeve in black silk crepe with the body of the dress is finished with strips of black silk satin spaced between bands black and white quail feathers. Most certainly one of the most elegant and grossly understated collections Ferretti has created in a while. Missing is her young, sexy and colorful looks. Instead Ferretti gives us a trend collection of black pieces and earthy brown pieces for day. Bravo Madame Ferretti!

View complete collection at Wireimage

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June 27, 2007

Milan Women’s F/W 07 – POLLINI

This season Rifat Ozbek opened the Pollini collection with a lot of black and dark grays. He embraces the short skirt trend and emphasizes the looks with little accents. Everything from appliqués, beading on pockets, leather straps on the hems and sleeve cuffs. One of strongest statements Ozbek made this season is his circumvention of the heavy outerwear trend, instead he choose to give his outerwear pieces a lighter draped silhouette. The opening section is a series of gray and black but the highlight is Ozbek’s long pants. One of the standout looks in the opening section is a matching black jacket and skirt. The skirt and jacket are done in black silk/nylon blend and hemmed with a quilted shiny black nylon. Another great piece from the opening section is an off-white wool a-line dress with a cape style sleeve. The shoulders are detailed with a knit embroidery and the look is finished with a black faux fur arm warmers.

The second section has subtle color with earthy greens mixed with spicy shades of orange. The looks are a combination of pant looks and dress looks. Ozbek also showed a few print pieces, one of the standout prints is a black and silver camouflage print on silk taffeta. One of the great looks incorporating this print is the matching skirt and jacket in the silk taffeta. The jacket is trimmed with fox fur on the collar and shoulders. To finish the look are a pair of Rifat’s faux fur arm warmers. The third section is a move back to black but the fabrics have sheen or a mixture of leather pieces with texture like faux fur or beading. One of the key pieces in the closing section is black faux fur and printed taffeta fabric.

The must have looks this season are two contrast looks for Pollini. First is the spicy orange crepe rosette tops worn with a pair of knit wool shorts and a pair of wool ribbed knit arm warmers? The other must have look is a black a-line cocktail dress layered with layers of different embellishments that Ozbek used through out the collection. From the black silk crepe rosettes draped on the shoulder and the waist of the skirt to the sectioning of the matte black silk taffeta contrasted by the black velvet seaming. Lacking this season is a new look for Ozbek. The silhouette is standard and the little detailing is certainly the high point of the collection. One thing is for certain; it is a strong collection and very wearable collection for the Pollini client. Could Pollini be the next Louis Vuitton or Gucci? Ozbek’s last two collections are very commercial with a few editorial pieces here and there. I would love for him to give us a least one collection full of his imagination and fantasy. Bravo Monsieur Ozbek!

View complete collection at Wireimage

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Milan Women’s F/W 07 – ETRO

Veronica Etro’s inspiration for Fall/Winter is a mix between a 20’s style flapper silhouette and a DaDa art for the bold and geometric prints. The opening section jumps into the top trends of the season. With a full leg pant, bold prints on metallic fabrics, structured knit pieces and heavy leather jackets. But she keeps the color palette at a minimum sliding between gray and white with small hints of bold colors here and there. She also keeps the skirt lengths at the knee opting to stay away from the short trend. One of the standout looks in the opening section is a black sleeveless cashmere cardigan with a turtleneck. To finish the look Etro showed sleeveless white cashmere knit dress with a geometric design on the bottom half of the dress. For the second section the mix of basic black piece with prints in rich colors of brown, caramel, emerald green and yellow. One of the standout looks in this section is a gray and yellow geometric design print on silk chiffon skirt worn with a sleeveless gray cashmere stop with neckline embellished with beading.

Etro does show several pieces with a bubble hem and tapered leg pants. For the closing section she keeps the looks more dressed up and emphasizes color metallic. The standout looks for evening are the heavy outerwear looks. First a full silhouette jacket done in a heavy ¬knit with a black and dark olive green design. The look is finished with a black silk crepe full leg tuxedo pant and a silk chiffon blouse. The other standout look for evening is a matching pencil skirt and a draped neck top in the same black and olive green geometric print knit. Etro finishes the looks with a heavy black wool coat with the sleeves trimmed with black fur.

The must have looks this season are two dressed up day or business looks. First is Molinari’s gray wool baggy leg suit. The jacket is tailored with wide lapel and belted around the waist with a double black leather belt. The other must have look is a brown and gray printed knit skirt worn with a matching cape jacket in the same heavy knit. This season Veronica Etro focused on the classic Etro prints and took them from the fabrics and incorporated them into some strong knit pieces for Fall. While the collection is a little lacking in the color department, Etro presented a very strong commercial as well as editorial collection. Bravo Madame Etro!

View complete collection at Wireimage

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Milan Women’s F/W 07 – BLUMARINE

For Fall/Winter Anna Molinari takes Blumarine into a period of morning. The opening section is all black except for two print dresses in fuchsia and red and then closing with a few leopard print dresses. Molinari keeps the looks short in length, keeping the skirt lengths just above the knee. The second section moves to dark and light gray looks. The silhouette is a little tighter on the body but Molinari kept the models covered with the skirts to the knee and heavy knit leggings. One of the standout looks is long sleeve jersey knit knee-length dress. The fabric is gathered at hip and twisted into a criss-cross creating a tight fit to the hip. The third section is a little more decadent with rich taffeta fabrics, faux furs and rich splashes of color like red, emerald green and purple. Molinari kept her pants tight on the leg and opted to not show a lot of outerwear pieces for Fall. One of the key print looks is the black and white leopard print on silk chiffon. One of the key looks using this print is a matching silk chiffon pencil skirt and short sleeve blouse with a ruffle-trimmed sleeve.

The must have pieces from the collection are two of Molinari’s dresses in a shocking color. First is the red and fuchsia floral print on silk taffeta. The dress belted at the waist with a jeweled ruby red belt. The other must look is a emerald green silk satin cocktail dress with a plunging v-neckline. Worn with the dress is one of Molinari’s heavy costume necklaces reminiscent of classic Cartier pieces. The collection is very simple and still young, but in dark sophisticated palette. Missing form the collection is the color that was only hinted on in the latter half of the collection. Although I missed the color Molinari presented several classic statement pieces and looks for the season. Her prints are the heart of the collection and the most editorial pieces we will see for Fall/Winter spreads. Bravo Madame Molinari!

View complete collection at Wireimage

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June 26, 2007

Milan Women’s F/W 07 – BOTTEGA VENETA

Thomas Maier opened this season with a “sea of black”, so many designers find it necessary to build off of black in the fall/winter season. The look is a little dresses up but youthful short in such a severe color palette. One of the looks that really show this mixture is the black wool dress worn with a matching cropped waist black wool jacket. The princess shaped sleeve is cropped short with the collar and lapel lined in a contrasting heavy wool fabric. Then slowly Maier did move out of black showering a series of looks in some dusty colors, like dusty rose, orange and brown. One of the key looks in the dusty color palette is dusty rose silk crepe dress. The dress is tailored close to the torso and flared from the hip in a-line silhouette. Maier twists the fabric around the neckline creating a drape look.

The second section is a series of outerwear pieces in black and moving into more Fall color palette of off white and pale browns and tans. The silhouette is still young but the emphasis is certainly on a short length. It’s frilly feminine with romantic silhouettes in muted shades. One of the standout cocktail dresses in the closing section is a simple straight-line off-white silk crepe dress. The hem of the dress is detailed with crystal beading and the dress has a short sleeve finished with fabric pleated creating draped look on the shoulder. Another key cocktail look from the collection is a short tan silk organdy dress with a plunging v-neckline. The fabrics is synched on the torso and the sleeves are finished with fabric pinned in bubble shape on the shoulder. There was only one pant look in the collection, for evening only, a tuxedo pant with a full leg. I would love to have seen Maier give the BV client a few more pant looks or even a short look for those Indian Summers.

The must have outerwear piece from the collection is a knee-length soft tan leather overcoat. The leather has impression of a honeycomb design giving the coat some texture. The other must have piece from the collection is one of Maier’s evening gowns. A strapless floor-length black silk crepe gown, the black crepe is tailored with the seaming accenting the hourglass silhouette of the gown. The bust line of the dress is lowered with a strip of nude colored crepe finishing off the top of the bust line. While there was a little color in the middle of the collection, it would have been nice to see more color for the evening section. Especially in those young and flirty cocktail dresses in the closing section. One of the strongest statements from the collection is a youthful look for a brand that is known for its sophisticated tailoring and look.

View complete collection at Wireimage

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Milan Women’s F/W 07 – BRIONI

The inspiration at Brioni is mix of modern draping and focusing on a full silhouette. the opening of the collection with a combination of green and white looks and emphasis on playing with lines. One of the key outerwear pieces in this section is a dark olive green coat that has a bubble shape almost to the coat. The neckline and lapel are draped wide with on side of the coat opening draped down to the waist. The full shape of the coat is gathered into a pleat and belted at the waist. The design team opted to keep the skinny leg pant in a lot of the looks. But the second section moves into a black and white palette and looks are a little more structured than the opening section where one piece was a stand-alone. Brioni also splashes some red but then its gone. One of the standout looks in this section is a heavily sculpted knee-length black wool coat with a short sleeve. The collar of the coat is incorporated into the top of the coat. To finish the look the coat is belted with a double leather strap belt and worn with a olive green silk gazar skirt and a sheer angora black turtle neck sweater.

In the third section the design team plays with more color on a few looks, like the dark teal used on a top, skirt or knit piece. The close of the collection is a lot of very sculpted dresses and outerwear pieces. One of the standout outerwear pieces from the collection is Brioni’s take on the trench coat. The coat is tailored with a heavy silhouette in black silk crepe and black silk satin lining the collar and lapel. The coat is belted at the waist giving the piece more shape. One of the standout cocktail dresses is a simple strapless silk satin dress with the top of the dress draped from one shoulder over the other. There was one loose fitting pant look in the collection. Missing from the collection is a strong day look; for the most part the collection is mostly about a look for evening even in the opening section.

View complete collection at Wireimage

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June 25, 2007

Milan Women’s F/W 07 – DOLCE & GABBANA

The last couple of seasons Dominico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have slowly changed the focus of their collections. In the past they have catered to a more commercial look and presenting a prominent marketable collection. Now they are driven to redefine their image and give their clients new look and a new taste of Dolce & Gabbana. This season they morph metallic fabrics and emphasize a move back to their strict silhouette from the early 90’s with metal corsets. The opening section is very tailored but then the duo takes a billowy shape top and then adds more volume with a billowy tulle shell on top of the piece. One of the standout outerwear pieces in the opening section is a faux cheetah fur coat with a shell of black tulle covering the whole jacket. The coat is worn with one of the silver waist corsets. The second section is more dressed up and the fabrics shift into a metallic theme and we see more embellishment and detailing. Emphasis is another key word, one of the standout looks in this section is pale nude long sleeve top that is silk screened with a metallic version of the nude color. Emphasizing the muscles in the arm and the breasts. To finish the look is a black stretch knit skirt with a contrast dart in black silk satin.

A lot of the collection can be interpreted as too dramatic and too fantasy. But in truth the statement is that sexy can really exists today and Dolce & Gabbana stands for sexy and they are able to define it any way they want. Whether it be a little dominatrix or simple taking volumes of fabrics and emphasizing a silhouette. The statement is severe but the overall execution is near flawless. The third section is little more wearable; the duo toys with heavy outerwear pieces in texture fabrics and leather. One of the strongest combination or theme is Stefano and Dominico pencil skirt combinations. One of the standout looks in this section is a black pencil skirt in a textured patent leather. The skirt look is finished with a matching patent leather vest over a black silk charmeuse blouse with a long princess cuff sleeve. And of coarse worn with a silver waist corset! This season Dolce & Gabbana moved away from the skinny leg pant and embracing the full leg pant. They also emphasized a lot of their animal print looks with heavy beading and feathers. This is most evident in the evening section, which is a long series of beaded gowns and cocktail dresses. One of the standout cocktail dresses is knee-length a-line silk chiffon dress encrusted with beading and a spray of small feathers on the top and hem of the dress. Of coarse the dress is sheer and should be worn with your best lingerie but the metal waist corset sets it off perfectly. Not sure you could wear this dress without the corset.

The must have cocktail dress is one of the heavily beaded cocktail dresses in a crimson red with a black tulle shell encasing the dress from the neckline to the hem. The dress is worn with a silver waist belt corset. The other must have piece from the collection is another black tulle encased piece. A white short sleeve fur coat worn with a silver waist belt and high collar, you can easily see the embellishment and the whole dominatrix theme through out the collection. What is hidden is the reference of structure and architecture. This season Dominico and Stefano take the whole collection to another level, a couture level at least. While the pieces we saw on the runway will be watered down in the stores. The statement is that today we live a luxurious lifestyle and these pieces may be over the top but they fit into our lifestyles perfectly. Bravo Monsieur Dolce y Monsieur Gabbana!

View complete collection at Wireimage

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Milan Women’s F/W 07 – LES COPAINS

The inspiration at Les Copains is cooler weather, a bundled up look for Fall and the color palette is light and cool with pale grays and whites. The opening section is a string of knit looks incorporated into outerwear pieces and dresses. Opening with a white and pale gray knits and the outerwear pieces are heavy but compliment the lightness of the knit dresses. One of the standout pieces in this section was the off the shoulder pale gray cashmere sweater dress. The sleeves and hem do have a slight bubble shape but the spirit of this look is the mother of pearl palette covering the body and sleeve of the dress. The second section goes a little darker with heavy shades of grays. Even the fabrics get a little heavier with the introduction of wool and fur into the collection. One of the standout pieces in this section is the cashmere and angora knit poncho jackets. The knit poncho is a contrast diamond design with a pale gray angora contrast with black cashmere.

For the third section turns it up a notch. Showing more layering in the looks and emphasizing the detail of the fabrics. From the weaved jersey fabric to the patent python leather with a contrast seaming. The design also plays more with colors like orange and pale purple. Some of the misses in this section are many tunic style dresses and use of velvet, which are trends we saw last season. One of the highlights are the knit hats minus the pom-poms. One of the standout looks in this section is the gray and tan stripe cashmere turtleneck sweater. The knit is sliced open in the front of the sweater with a contrast of black underneath. The sweater is worn with a full leg jersey pant. The closing section moves into black and navy blue. One of the strongest statements is the sheer embroidered and beaded dress in a poncho shape. One of the strongest pieces is a turtleneck mini-dress. The dress is sheer organza with brocade design embroidery embellished with a lot of beading. The sleeve cuff and turtleneck are done in a ribbed silk/lycra fabric. I love how the designer really struck to the whole bundled up theme for the collection. He keeps the references in the lighter more short feminine looks of the collection. It’s amazing how he moves from knits and furs to metallic fabrics and patent leather. The only dilemma here is the lack of fluidity through the whole collection. The high point of the collection is most certainly the knits pieces from the dresses to the ponchos and jackets.

View complete collection at Wireimage

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June 22, 2007

Milan Women’s F/W 07 – 6267

Is Proenza Schouler moving to Milan and taking over 6267, this season Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi took note of NY duo’s design aesthetic this season. We see again the roaring 20’s but instead the designer focuses on volume rather than the little details. Aquilano and Rimondi also took on some of this season top trends like the heavy outerwear pieces. The opening section is a lot of heavy outerwear pieces showed with several dark and masculine silhouette dresses in a black color palette. One of the standout looks in the opening section is a black wool overcoat with the lapels and collar over draped. The look is finished with a black faux fur skirt worn with a black silk crepe corset style top. In the second section the color palette moves to dark and lights gray and the look are little more tailored like the series of dressed up pant looks. Sadly duo opted to keep the pant leg tapered this season. One of the standout pieces in this section is a heavy gray wool trench coat. The coat is not a traditional trench silhouette as the body of the trench is flared from the hip and the sleeves are heavily constructed with modern utility style.

Rimondi and Aquilano closing section is long with a series of playful looks in grays and blacks. The looks incorporate trends like chunky knits, faux fur and feather cocktail dress. The silhouette is top heavy through out the collection and one of the best statements in the collection is a bundled up look. The heavy outerwear pieces are truly the highlight of the collection as well as some of playful cocktail dresses in the closing section. One of the standout looks in the closing section is one of the few long skirt looks in the collection. An ankle length gray tweed skirt worn with a brushed black wool jacket with a draped front and worn belted high on the waist. This season the only color piece in the collection is a brown jacket in the opening section. They kept the collection dark and monochromatic and emphasize the detailing of the seaming on some the outerwear pieces creating a heavily tailored look.

The must have pieces from the collection is one of Aquilano and Rimondi’s outerwear pieces and the flirty cocktail dress. The must have outerwear pieces is a gray brushed wool coat which they did the seaming in slice layout creating an almost bubble shape coat. The sleeves are incorporated in the back pant of the jacket creating a shell for the coat. The must have cocktail dress is a black silk gazar dress, the skirt of the dress is covered in black ostrich feathers and the top of the dress is finished with the draping bust line in silk gazar and gather the fabric into straps. While I loved all of the outerwear pieces the absence of color in a lot of the looks is a big miss for the collection. One can only have so much black in their closet. A lot of the playful pieces in the collection really give the collection a younger look but if some of those pieces were in color it would have really complete the collection.

View complete collection at Wireimage

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June 21, 2007

Milan Women’s F/W 07 – AIGNER

The inspiration at Aigner Fall/Winter is a mold between American Sportswear and a Milanese silhouette and tailoring. The opening section is a series of dark brown palette looks. The look is a short silhouette worn with leggings or knee-high stockings. The embellishment moves from leather belts to tortoiseshell necklaces or leather appliqués on fabric to look like snake skin. One of the standout looks in this section is a simple brown linen jacket with ¾ length sleeve and the leather appliqué covering the neckline in crocodile layout. Another great piece form the opening section is a simple line dresses in brown with the top half of the dress done in rich brown leather. This dress is an essential piece and can work with other pieces from other designers.

In the second section Aigner adds more prints and shifts from the brown color palette to a navy blue color palette. The leather details are still present but the silhouette is looser. One of the standout pieces in this section is a mute navy blue silk and cotton cropped waistcoat. The coat collar and lapels are oversized and the sleeves are tailored with straight line from the neck to elbow giving the sleeve a heavy drape. Slowly Aigner adds a few red leather pieces and more prints. For the closing section he goes black and steps up the tailoring to a more dressed up look. Showing more outerwear pieces in this section and a lot of leather pieces. One of the standout looks in this section is simple black silk crepe long sleeve dress with a plunging neckline. The dress skirt is covered in a drape of black plastic discs and a matching necklace. To close the collection is a series of leather outerwear pieces.

The must have looks from the collection is a floor length brown twill gown with the bust line finished with a leather halter top loop which Aigner laced a tortoiseshell style necklace. A classic piece for Aigner but a timeless piece! The gown is one of only a few long pieces in the collection. Aigner favored a very short skirt length this season. The real highlights of the collection are the leather pieces in the third section. Overall the combination of day and evening looks is one of the strengths of the collection. The designer touches on a lot of this season’s big trends but keeps true to his sexy silhouette and emphasize on the key piece of each look. That could be a heavy outerwear piece or pieces with leather detailing. Overall I would to have seen Aigner show more leather pieces in the collection and less of the simple crepe dresses like in the black section.

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June 20, 2007

Milan Women’s F/W 07 – ANTEPRIMA

Izumi Ogino’s inspiration this season is young playful woman, short silhouettes with draped tops. Reminiscent of Marni! The first section is a series of short skirt looks and knit tops belted at the waist. The skirt length is not too short, just above the knee. One of the strongest looks in this section is a gray pleat front skirt worn with a olive green and khaki floral design cashmere knit top. The top is tailored flat on across the shoulders and bust line and belted at the waist. The second section Ogino’s dolls it up with short dresses with princess shoulders and softens the color palette. Izumi’s knits are the strongest pieces in the opening while in the second it’s the outerwear pieces. In the third section the color palette goes a little darker with a series of black looks and several gray pieces. One of the standout looks in this section is a gray v-neck sheer angora sweater with beading weaved into the knit. The sweater is embellished with his metallic butterflies and a copper sequined mini skirt. A few looks did stick out like a sore thumb from section to section. One example is the olive green and gold look in the middle of the black section, not sure if the designer did that on purpose or the model couldn’t get dressed in time.