Black, Black, Black and more black! The look at Phi is biker rock woman chic. I have not seen so much black during NY fashion week since the 90’s and designer Andreas Melbostad drab mood is drenched all over the collection. Melbostad opted for the short silhouette this season, showing off sexy legs in thigh high black leather boots. Karl Lagerfeld eat your heart out! The fabric combination is really interesting in the collection, from the quilted silk satin jackets with leather sleeves to the tweed miniskirt with the seaming finished in leather. I was delighted to see such a great number of leather pieces in the collection, everything from jackets, mini skirts, vest and even accessories. The opening section is a series of very short with mini skirts and dresses worn under a long overcoat or jacket. One of the standout pieces in the opening section is a black wool trench coat with quilted black leather sleeves. The opening of the jacket, lapels and color are trimmed in black leather as well. Another key look in the opening section is the layering of knits. One of the key knit looks is a faux fur jacket with gray knit sleeve worn over a printed tank dress and sheer knit button front shirt.

Melbostad choose to keep the looks this season very sexy but highlight the heavy outerwear pieces with leather detailing. The second section is play with textured layering and highlighted by a few print pieces. One of the best looks that exhibited the textured layering is the long sleeveless black silhouette jacket look. The jacket is worn over a black cashmere turtleneck sweater along with a gray tweed mini skirt layered over a black silk satin mini skirt. The “It” piece is certainly pirate style crotch length black leather boot with platform heel. For the third section it’s more prints for Fall, prints used One of the great prints in the collection is a Japanese fan style print. One of the standout print looks is a black and red button front dress worn with a black suede jacket. Melbostad’s outwear pieces may be all black but the focus is on tailoring, the sleeves are tighter and the shoulder has more volume.

The must have looks for Fall/Winter incorporates Andreas Melbostad’s great knits, heavy textures and a short silhouette. The emphasis is the leather pieces incorporated into the looks. First is one of the opening looks a cropped waist bomber jacket with black faux fur on the wide collar and the sleeves done in quilted black leather. The look is finished with a black cashmere turtleneck sweater dress over a cropped tapered leg pant. The other must have look is one of the long black suede vest jacket worn with a black silk merino turtleneck sweater and a gray tweed mini-skirt. While many designers in New York are seeing black for Fall/Winter 07’, Melbostad’s prints give us some hope. I was crazy mad about all of the outerwear pieces with the heavy leather detailing. Bravo Monsieur Melbostad!

View complete collection at Wireimage

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