May 2007 Archives


May 31, 2007

N.Y. Womens F/W 07 – ZERO+

Maria Cornejo modern New Yorker is very literal this season at Zero+. The silhouette is draped and loose on the body. The opening section is a mix of day look with bundled up evening looks with a little leather popping out here and there and even some plaid prints. Another strong statement at Zero+ is Cornejo;s draped knit pieces. One of the standout pieces is smock style gray cashmere knit dress. The dress has slits in the front allowing a belt to peak out in the front. There is very little color in the collection with only three-color pieces in red and purple. A lot of the looks in the opening section are very masculine while the closing section is more feminine with prints and softer fabrics that are loosely tailored. On of the best print pieces is a simple silk satin dress worn with a cropped waist black cashmere sweater. The print is an abstract design similar to a wrinkled metallic material.

The must have look from the collection is one of Cornejo’s pant looks. A high waist black and gray tweed pant. The pant is tailored with a straight leg that is oversized on the leg. To finish the look is a black silk crepe blouse which Maria twists the fabric emphasizing the bust line. I was very please to see Cornejo loosen up her strict aesthetic in the close of the collection, but I would like to have seen more prints from Cornejo. There is only two prints in whole collection, the second print reminds me of the smudge polka-dot print I saw at Lyn Devon. One great look that Cornejo used this look is a long aviator style jacket in black leather worn with a above the knee skirt with the smudge dot print on silk taffeta and highlight by gold tones.

View complete collection at Wireimage

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May 30, 2007

N.Y. Womens F/W 07 – MALO

More Black, but designers Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi opts to focus on volume rather than skinny black. Right from the opening section Aquilano & Rimondi showed a series of heavy bulky knits. But, is frilly black really that attractive? The second section is a short look but the emphasis is on the knit pieces. She does show a series of tailored mens pin-stripe blazer looks. This masculine tailoring shifted into the closing with a series of masculine fabrics morphed into feminine styled looks. One of the key looks in the collection is the pant which Aquilano and Rimondi opts to keep the pant leg loose and baggy. All of a sudden in the closing section the duo comes alive. The early part of the collection very constrained and closed while the closing section plays with embellishment and printed fabrics and she finally rocks it out with two killer leather pieces. As the collection progressed Tommaso and Roberto started to really find a voice. Although the bulk of the collection is in all black the detailing at the end of the collection is the highlight. I would love to have seen more prints come out in the collection earlier on. However the richness of the black and heavy detailing of the knits and fur is striking.

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May 29, 2007

N.Y. Womens F/W 07 – PHI

Black, Black, Black and more black! The look at Phi is biker rock woman chic. I have not seen so much black during NY fashion week since the 90’s and designer Andreas Melbostad drab mood is drenched all over the collection. Melbostad opted for the short silhouette this season, showing off sexy legs in thigh high black leather boots. Karl Lagerfeld eat your heart out! The fabric combination is really interesting in the collection, from the quilted silk satin jackets with leather sleeves to the tweed miniskirt with the seaming finished in leather. I was delighted to see such a great number of leather pieces in the collection, everything from jackets, mini skirts, vest and even accessories. The opening section is a series of very short with mini skirts and dresses worn under a long overcoat or jacket. One of the standout pieces in the opening section is a black wool trench coat with quilted black leather sleeves. The opening of the jacket, lapels and color are trimmed in black leather as well. Another key look in the opening section is the layering of knits. One of the key knit looks is a faux fur jacket with gray knit sleeve worn over a printed tank dress and sheer knit button front shirt.

Melbostad choose to keep the looks this season very sexy but highlight the heavy outerwear pieces with leather detailing. The second section is play with textured layering and highlighted by a few print pieces. One of the best looks that exhibited the textured layering is the long sleeveless black silhouette jacket look. The jacket is worn over a black cashmere turtleneck sweater along with a gray tweed mini skirt layered over a black silk satin mini skirt. The “It” piece is certainly pirate style crotch length black leather boot with platform heel. For the third section it’s more prints for Fall, prints used One of the great prints in the collection is a Japanese fan style print. One of the standout print looks is a black and red button front dress worn with a black suede jacket. Melbostad’s outwear pieces may be all black but the focus is on tailoring, the sleeves are tighter and the shoulder has more volume.

The must have looks for Fall/Winter incorporates Andreas Melbostad’s great knits, heavy textures and a short silhouette. The emphasis is the leather pieces incorporated into the looks. First is one of the opening looks a cropped waist bomber jacket with black faux fur on the wide collar and the sleeves done in quilted black leather. The look is finished with a black cashmere turtleneck sweater dress over a cropped tapered leg pant. The other must have look is one of the long black suede vest jacket worn with a black silk merino turtleneck sweater and a gray tweed mini-skirt. While many designers in New York are seeing black for Fall/Winter 07’, Melbostad’s prints give us some hope. I was crazy mad about all of the outerwear pieces with the heavy leather detailing. Bravo Monsieur Melbostad!

View complete collection at Wireimage

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May 28, 2007

N.Y. Womens F/W 07 – BERARDI

Designer Antonio Berardi’s Fall collection for his Berardi line is a hint of Tokyo Mod. You can take that from either the all Asian models on the runway or his strict black and white color palette. This season Berardi keeps to the skinny leg pant strays away from the oversized outerwear trend and keep his outerwear pieces very tailored to the torso and arms. The only print that he used in the collection is Windsor check from last season. The details are in the skirt, they vary in length but the tailoring and styling very strict Berardi. From the opening section the close the looks slowly become more and more edgy. Shifting from the feminine silhouettes done in masculine prints like the Windsor check and finally coming severe androgyny with biker jackets and skinny leg pants worn with boots. One of the strongest pieces in the collection is a black cashmere/wool coat. The opening of the coat is trimmed in a stripe of dark gray wool and the coat sleeves and torso are tailored tight.

The key pieces from the collection are Berardi’s outerwear pieces. The must have piece from the collection is a cropped waist black biker jacket. The message is a little lost in this collection. While I understood the whole modern mod mixed with the downtown chic. The collection fell victim to the NY curse of “the sea of the same”. Missing is the adventure or experimentation Berardi is known for! While there are several classic pieces in the collection there was only a handful “wow” pieces. Certainly Berardi could have used more leather outerwear pieces in the collection.

View complete collection at Wireimage

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May 26, 2007

N.Y. Womens F/W 07 – LYN DEVON

Minimalism meets decadent fabrics, the contrast of texture and firmness. Designer Lyn Devon’s looks for Fall/Winter are heavily structures with touch of softness, but the lines and seaming are literal. One trend that Devon emphasized this season is the print; which she styled after 60’s geometric art prints. The first section is styled with several boxy tailored pieces and looks in very muted color palette. The only color in the collection is in the print pieces. One of the standout looks in this section is was orange and white geometric art print silk chiffon blouse worn with a tailored tight tweed pant with the pocket openings trimmed in a orange silk satin ribbon. The outerwear silhouette is loose on the body, while the pants are tailored close to the hips and butt. Devon keeps the length of the pant long while the dresses and skirts are above or at the knee. In the second section Devon drapes tops and outerwear pieces over skirts and pants creating a contrast of heavy silhouette on top of a tight silhouette on the bottom. One of the standout pieces in this section is dark navy blue turtleneck top with a ¾ length sleeve. The top is detailed with a geometric T contrast seam.

In the second section Devon shows a few prints but one of the standout prints is a black and white polka-dot print on silk. The dots are smudged creating a print that is very similar to a cheetah print. One of the key looks that incorporate this print is a silk collarless zip front top worn with a brown linen jacket. The jacket is the key to the look with a draped ¾ length sleeve and a clean tailored torso paired with no lapel. The third section moves back to a loose silhouette with a series of smock dresses but Devon focuses on the combination of fabrics as the detail of the looks. Devon also makes sure her outerwear pieces are another highlight following the heavy outerwear trend seen on the runways. One of the strongest outerwear pieces in the collection is a knee-length black wool overcoat with offset opening. The collar is done in turtleneck style off set like the coat opening.

The must have piece from the collection are complete opposites. First is the embroidered geometric shape smock top with a bias hem. Another complete look and a must have look has several key statement pieces from the collection. It’s a layered look with a black silk gazar pencil skirt worn with a zip front smudged dot print silk top under Devon’s black wool jacket with a draped sleeve and torso. Lyn Deon’s style is certainly evident in this collection. With the whole modern silhouette attributed to greats as Issey Miyaki and Rei Kawakubo. Devon’s strongest statement from the collection is her colorful and eye please prints. The only thing I would like to have seen was a few more print pieces in the collection. Overall a strong collection and a very retail collection! Bravo Madame Devon!

View complete collection at Wireimage

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May 25, 2007

N.Y. Womens F/W 07 – ANNA SUI

How can you ever go wrong with Anna Sui, every girl today needs a little Anna in their closet. Whether it’s a t-shirt, her classic baby doll dress or a killer pair of her boots. The opening section is dark with tones of black and classic Sui purple. The statement pieces in this section are the knits along with a few leather pieces. The “it” trend is Sui’s knee high black leather boots. Anna even draws from her decadent archive of prints and textiles. Bold is really not a word to describes Sui’s eye for creating decadent looks and pieces, its more like “Alive”. One of the standout looks in the opening section is a bright blue print dress with a velvet collar and sleeve cuffs. To complete the look Sui showed a brown tweed jacket with fringe trim and buttons matching the colors in the dress print. The second section is peppered with a few color pieces but Sui keeps the color with the blue/red-blue family, with a hint of green here and there. The prints are highlight of this section especially in her knit looks. One of the standout looks is a dark olive green paisley print cashmere/wool knit hooded cardigan and matching skirt. The look is finished with a spicy orange silk satin hooded blouse.


The must have looks from the collection are from the third section. Sui moves away from the blue and into more reds and oranges. The looks were a combination of printed pieces matching with complimentary outerwear pieces in heavy velvet, taffeta or faux fur fabrics. The first must have look is the black and white news print blouse worn with a pin stripe black skirt trimmed with lace. To complete the look is a black and white wool sweater. The other must have look is the orange/blue/brown striped velvet coat worn with a brown and orange paisley print dress. To top the look off Sui had showed a boot in the same striped velvet fabric used for the coat. There are countless options in this collection, in every look. Whether it’s the gold beaded baby doll dresses or the embroidered biker boots or the matching taffeta dresses and capes. Sui’s philosophy of adding more is how to really create her look for everyday. More being the accessories, from tassel jewelry, brocade accents or even a sequined cap. This collection is most certainly one of the best outerwear collections Sui has shown in recent seasons. The pieces to watch out for are the taffeta trench coats or the ponchos and capes. Bravo Madame Sui!

View complete collection at Wireimage

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May 24, 2007

N.Y. Womens F/W 07 – JENNI KAYNE

A muted and toned down flirty girl, that’s Jenni Kayne’s direction for Fall/Winter 07. Kayne focused on keeping the collection young and youthful by keeping the skirts and dress looks short. She keeps the tailoring very simple and clean and the color palette safe with a lot of muted or dark shades. The opening section is a mix of natural tones of white and brown with black and gray pieces. Jenni incorporates several big trends of the season in her collection from her prints; lightweight knits and slightly oversized outerwear pieces. The second section is all black and white with more pant and leggings looks and stronger outerwear pieces. One of the standout outerwear pieces in the second section is a black and white plaid cropped waist jacket. The jacket has a cropped short sleeve and wide collar, to finish the look Kayne showed a black pencil skirt and black cashmere cardigan. The color for evening is black, and Jenni plays with length and embellishments on long dramatic gowns. One of the standout looks was the floor-length Grecian column style black silk crepe gown. The gown is a halter-top style with the neckline done in a gold brocade fabric.

The must have pieces from the collection are two contrast pieces for Kayne. First is the empire waist dress in a brown and tan moiré taffeta print. The other must have piece from the collection is Kayne’s reworked collegiate coat into 60’s tube silhouette style. The coat is done in black-brushed wool with straight-line silhouette and short sleeves. I love how she paired the strict modern coat with a sheer embroidered and beaded long sleeve top. There were only a few leather pieces in the collection and it would have been nice to see more. The highlight of the collection is youthfulness of the design. The outerwear is another strong point to the collection. Although the trend this season is heavy outerwear, she keeps the tailoring loose, which is just enough. Bravo Mademoiselle Kayne!

View complete collection at Wireimage

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May 23, 2007

N.Y. Womens F/W 07 – JASON WU

For his second ready to wear collection, Jason Wu warms up his classic glamor woman and gives her countless options. The opening section is a series of all black looks, from the outerwear piece to the cocktail dresses. One of the standout outerwear pieces in the opening section is a black wool coat with ¾ length sleeves and worn with a mustard yellow leather belt. The collar of the coat is encrusted with pearled beads. Wu touched on a few of last season’s trends like brocade fabrics and 50’s style cape jackets. The second section is a highlight of a little color, mainly red and yellow with a lot of metallic silver. The silhouettes from the opening to second sections are all over the place. No clear defined silhouette statement in the whole collection. For evening Wu only showed 6 gowns, all floor length and all draped with a romantic full silhouette. One of the standout gowns is the red silk taffeta empire waist gown. The fabrics drapes to the floor with a slight slope in the front showing off the red silk satin fabric underskirt.

The two must have pieces are from the opening section. First is a wide neck silk jacquard dress with an elbow length sleeve and pencil skirt shape with a flare at the hem. The other must have piece is a silver brocade fabric jacket. The tailoring is very simple but the silver brocade as an unique look. The look of the collection is still reminiscent of his passion in designing clothes for doll collections. Absent is his sense of adventure in creating unique pieces and looks. While the whole collection is easily a commercial success, editorially this collection might hurt Wu with very few eye please pieces.

View complete collection at Wireimage

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May 22, 2007

N.Y. Womens F/W 07 – CHAIKEN

Millicent Roger’s American sportswear meets working woman chic is the inspiration for Julies Chaiken’s Fall collection. For the opening sections the palette is gray and white and slowly Chaiken added some color. She kept the silhouette long this season, the skirts and dresses are hemmed below the knee. One of the standout pieces in the opening section is a blue-gray wool/jersey blend dress. The tailoring of the dress is a tight silhouette, which compliments the modern minimalist look Chaiken was achieving. Unfortunately Chaiken took this tight tailoring and used it in the outerwear pieces of the collection. Although she made sure that the pant pieces were more relaxed. A lot of the pant had a baggy leg and another standout look in the opening section is a pant look, a light gray wool pant with a baggy leg pant worn with a pale gray blouse. In the second section Chaiken adds more color and continues with a long silhouette. Then in the third section she moves into a black and white palette showing various looks for evening. From oversized and draped white cashmere sweaters to the long flowee jersey gowns in yellow, red, green and the crowd favorite purple.

In the middle of the evening section Chaiken showed 4 looks that had Indian embroidery and beaded details. These looks were interesting and the detailing was beautiful, but they stood out like a sore thumb. The major statement pieces form the collection are the modern silhouette pieces which you can attribute the inspiration from even Donna Karan. The first must have look from the collection is a oversized and draped sleeve white cashmere sweater worn with heavy baggy leg black wool pant. The other must have look is gray cashmere knit sweater dress. The body of the dress is tight on the body and the sleeves are flared from the elbow. The looks for Fall are some of the most toned down looks we’ve seen Chaiken do to date. While the collection has been commented as being safe, the androgyny style of the collection is very prominent and is strong statement. I am not sure if I really grasped the idea of Millicent Rogers in the collection, rather I see more Katherine Hepburn and Donna Karan through out. The collection is very warm and full of life were as Rogers is colder and brasher. Overall this collection has an abundant number of strong pieces and looks. Bravo Madame Chaiken!

View complete collection at Wireimage

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May 21, 2007

N.Y. Womens F/W 07 – DOO RI

For Fall designer Doo Ri takes on the outerwear trend of the season with a focus on complimenting her short and feminine silhouette. The opening section is probably one of the most out of the Doo Ri box moments you can get! The decadent knit pieces paired with delicate embroidery or her signature draping paired with embellishment. One of the standout looks in the opening section is a cropped gray knit jacket with short sleeves and beaded stripped color collar. The jacket is worn with a short empire waist black silk organza dress with black satin bows layered on the bodice of the dress. Another strong look from the opening section is gray cashmere knit sweater trimmed with a black lace style knit on the hem. The look is finished with a black velvet bubble shape skirt and a small fur shrug jacket.

Doo Ri used the bubble hem on several pieces which is another repeat trend. For the second section she moved back to her signature draped dresses and tops. She played with tops giving them a plunging necklines and framing the bust line with heavy beading. One of the standout pieces is a burgundy silk draped top with the bust line covered with burgundy fish scales palettes. For evening Ri kept the selection very limited. She opted to only show a handful of looks the crowning looks were two of the beaded cocktail dresses. The dress is almost reminiscent of Alexander McQueen’s empire waist holster strap dresses. Ri keeps the look toned down and focuses on her modern draping as the highlight. One of the standout looks in the evening section is a burgundy silk jersey dress with a bubble hem and the waistline moved above the breast. Ri does a contrast strap of burgundy beading and crystals.

The two must have pieces from the collection are two great editorial pieces. First is a deep purple silk satin blouse with the bust line detailed with matching purple fish scale palettes. The other must have piece is the printed burgundy and teal stripe halter-top dress. The hem of the skirt is detailed with beading and a holster beaded strap worn on top of the dress. This collection is another great chapter in the Doo Ri saga. A chapter that is moving fast and moving forward. She continues to respect the style she crafted over the past couple of years while continuing to evolve it. From her new structured outerwear pieces to the emphasis of embellishment on her classic pieces. Doo Ri’s choice to slowly evolve in the industry is evident in this collection and a wise decision. Bravo Madame Ri!

View complete collection at Wireimage

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May 20, 2007

Look to Spring/Summer 2008

John Galliano gave us a glimpse of what’s to come for S/S 08’ with his recent resort collection for the House of Dior. Highly styled 60’s bouffant hairstyles paired with early 60’s style couture. The result, we could possibly be see the return of Hubert de Givenchy inspired collections to the runway! Say hello to Holly Golightly, Hellen Lawson and Mrs. Robinson. Givenchy turned 80 earlier this year and we so need more beauty in the world that has become so ugly.





May 18, 2007

N.Y. Womens F/W 07 – TIBI

Amy Smilovic’s inspiration for Fall/Winter 07’ is the 30’s and 40’s. A lot of the prints and a lot of the color-blocked looks really define these inspirations. The opening section is a variation of short and long looks. Smilovic kept the pants tailored with a baggy but straight leg. The highlight of the opening section is the printed silk dresses, skirts and jackets. One of the standout pieces in the opening section is the black and white peony print coat. The coat loosely tailored and the sleeves are cropped to a ¾ length. The look was completed with Versace style print silk blouse and short black skirt with sailor buttons. I did not like the Versace print used on several pieces in the opening section. For the second section Smilovic added more prints, some of the prints are very simple plaids and polka dots. The strongest prints in this section are the inspired prints like the Aztec Zigzag or the Art Nouveau on two dresses. Amy even took the prints to another level creating embroidered prints on several pieces. One of the standout pieces is a black cotton twill skirt with Dorothy Draper style floral embroidery on scalloped hem of the skirt. The embroidery is emphasized by the huge eye-lets around the bottom of the skirt.

This season Amy Smilovic didn’t go to short with the skirts, keeping them tailored right above the knee. For the closing section she got a little lost. While come of the 30’s and 40’s references are hinted here and there, Smilovic opted to repeat some of the last season’s trends like the ruffle and 70’s smocks. The key looks from this collection are all of the print pieces. While the solid color pieces and looks are feminine, Smilovic’s prints are the show stoppers. The two must have pieces from the collection are print looks. First is two toned tree print on a silk gazar dress. The other is an art nouveau print on a long sleeve silk organza dress. The floral print is used on the hem of the skirt and on the bottom the sleeves. There are several editorial worthy pieces in the collection, especially the print pieces. The only thing I would like to have seen is Smilovic abandon the whole romantic wispy look the closed the collection. Overall there are a lot of unique and strong statement piece in the collection. Bravo Smilovic!

View complete collection at Wireimage

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May 17, 2007

N.Y. Womens F/W 07 – VENA CAVA

Modern construction with references of military detailing and of coarse a feminine silhouette here and there. At Vena Cava the opening section is a series of misguided looks, from the sleeveless pocket front dress to the bubble shape dress worn over a bell-bottom pant. The opening section is overworked and over stylized, the looks don’t compliment each other and the pieces get lost in the abundance of layering. One of the highlights from the collection is Maycock and Buhai’s choice to keep the pant leg full or baggy. On of the great pant looks is a black full leg wool pant worn with a matching black wool jacket. The second section is a little more toned down and a little more focused. The designer duo opted to stick to this season trend of short skirts and dresses but kept the evening section long. One of the standout evening pieces is a floor length silk organdy gown. The skirt is printed with a lace designer trimmed with a print of feathers.

This season Maycock and Buhai opted to only show one leather for the entire collection. This leather piece is my must have piece from the collection, a cropped collarless leather jacket, the leather-dyed honey brown. The stand out feature of this jacket is the opening that draped over the chest. This season the duo took too many trends from the last two seasons, from bubbles shapes, plaids and denim. Overall one the strongest sections in the collection is the evening section. This evening section is small and the duo moved back to some military references, but the long sleek and the long flowey silhouette fell out of the vision they painted through out the collection. Bottom line what really hurt the collection was the over styling of the looks.

View complete collection at Wireimage

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May 16, 2007

N.Y. Womens F/W 07 – SANS

A junior collection is always the hardest because you want to catch the editor and buyers eye while still staying true to yourself and inspiration. This season Lika Volkova & Alessandro DeVito took the workingwoman dresses and focused on a draped silhouette accented by pinning. The collection was laid out in a mix match look; there was no fluid theme or inspiration in the collection. The bulk of the collection is done in a black/gray/white color palette. The only color piece in the whole collection is the last look, a yellow and gray cape and matching yellow dress. The look Volkova & DeVito tried to achieve in the collection is a soft but masculine style for women. Soft and feminine fabrics soften modern structured and tailored looks. The duo did adopt some of this season trends like a heavy outerwear piece and a full leg pant. The must have piece from the collection is a white silk organza blouse. The top is structure and pinned into layers. Being his first collection during NY fashion week, Volkova & DeVito showed he has some potential and he certainly is moving towards his own vision in this collection.

View complete collection at Wireimage

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May 15, 2007

N.Y. Womens F/W 07 – TEMPERLEY

For her Fall/Winter collection Alice Temperley hinted on androgyny mixed with feminine fabrics. The collection color palette has a modern Mondrian spectrum. The colors are blocked in each piece and the colors are clear and defined. For the opening section Temperley kept the skirt lengths short, but not too short, just above the knee. One of the standout looks in the opening section is a black-cropped tuxedo jacket worn with a really short black skirt. To finish the look Alice did a blue top with the opening and lapel of the shirt in black. The second section we see more length and more detailing. The gowns and dresses had detailing reminiscent of deco architecture style. One of the standout pieces in this section is a black silk crepe floor length gown. The bodice of the gown is done with the straps criss-crossing in a deco print.

Th is season Alice Temperley continues her use of print to really make her collection standout. This season in the third section she showed a few prints on dresses and skirts. The prints reference a deco and art Nuevo period prints. One of the strongest pieces in this section is a white silk organza short skirt with a brocade floral print in black. For the closing section Alice kept the look very dressed up but played with skirt lengths and opted to show a baggy leg pant for evening. A great trend that we will hopefully see more of in the weeks. One of the strongest evening looks was the orange silk crepe gown with the top of the gown overlaid with strands of gold ribbon and beading.

The two must have pieces from the collection are two of Temperley’s print dresses. The first dress is wide neckline dress with long sleeves. A woman arch type print covers the skirt of the dress, the sleeves and bodice. The other must have piece is poncho dress which Alice ties the waist with a black leather belt. The dress is printed with a Nuveau stripe print, which defines the fan of the fabric. Another strong point of the collection is Temperley’s great bags. Sadly she only showed only a handful of leather pieces in the collection, I would love to have seen more. Season after season Alice Temperley has really been able to continue to evolve her vision and style into a new chapter. The result is another strong collection giving us great pieces for editorial and sale. Bravo Madame Temperley!

View complete collection at Wireimage

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May 14, 2007

Valentino Group on HOLD

WWD announced that the Valentino Group has frozen trading on VG Shares. Rumors are already spinning, from Valentino's retirement announcement which has been rumored for the past two years to even a possible sale to Pinault or the Gucci Group. The end of an era is coming closer and closer.

N.Y. Womens F/W 07 – KAREN WALKER