Slimane’s inspiration for the season was commented as early Pete Dohrety. My first impression was more the department store nomads in the “Night of the Comet” movie. Sadly Slimane seems to think the whole pant tucked into a boot look is they key trend for the season, please “No”! The opening section jumps right back to Slimane’s skinny look. Although, it’s not skin tight on the models, the clothes are a little loose but the silhouette is still tailored straight to the body. Sadly a lot of the pants shown in the collection are still tapered to the leg. Hedi opened with a series of black looks but then slowly moved into earth tones. One of the standout pieces in the section is the double-breasted khaki trench coat. The coat is knee length, tailored straight on the torso and has a slight flare around the thigh. For the second section Slimane shifts the silhouette into a volume look with his heavy outerwear pieces. He also adds leather pieces to the collection. The standout combination in this section is the black biker vest worn over a black collarless cashmere cardigan and a gray tweed knee-length vest.

In the third section Slimane adds more color but also focus on key pieces in all black. Leather is the fabric of choice in this section and Slimane gave some key leather looks for the season. One of the strongest leather pieces of the collection is a caramel colored suede jacket. The jacket is lined with rich caramel colored faux fur on the inside and on the lapel and collar. The jacket is detailed with patent leather strap on the body of the jacket and the sleeves. Another strong piece in this section cropped double-breasted p-coat in black leather. Slimane tailors the sleeves tight and the lapels and collar are draped like a trench coat. The only miss in this section were the sequined pieces. The closing section is punk'd up with graphic tees embellished with sequins.

The two must have pieces from the collection are two of this season big trend pieces. First is the brown checked print cropped overcoat. The coat is tailored is a a-line silhouette giving the coat a heavy look. Slimane does loosen the sleeve a little but is still tailored close to the arm. The other must piece is the black collar-less biker jacket. This season Hedi Slimane took the whole heavy outerwear trend to heart but kept tailored. His ability to take a little step out of his norm or safe zone is certainly evident in this collection. The collection as a whole has a number of classic Slimane pieces, several pieces open a new door for Slimane. Bravo Monsieur Slimane!

View complete collection at Mens Style,com

[images via Mens Style.com]