John Galliano has mastered the art of delivery for House of Christian Dior. This season Galliano abandons his thirst for new and modern and give the Dior client unique and classic Dior couture looks. The inspiration for his Spring couture collection, he looks to Madame Butterfly and the romantic themes in Japanese design. The opening section is a series of colorful looks that embody the classic Dior “New Look” silhouettes. The embroidery and beading is reference to the Japanese them of the collection. One of the best visions or statements from the opening section is the layer detailing, on the skirts or jackets. To key details are the layering of a pocket flap or the sleeve cuff. One of the dramatic and unique looks in the opening section was the swan feather dress. The dressed covered with pale pink and pale blue dyed feathers and the torso is done in a pale pink silk satin embroidered and beaded with a wisteria design. Another strong look from the opening section is one of the “new look” designs. A strapless floor length column dress in a vibrant yellow and embroidered with a lotus flower design. The dress is worn with a oversized evening coat, embroidered with the lotus flower and the hem is layered.

For the second section Galliano mixes Dior’s New Look with the Japanese kimono. One of the most detailed and unique piece in this section is a deep pink china doll dress. The dress is done in a deep pink silk crepe layered and the fabric is draped from one shoulder and layered across the hip. The big treat of this look is the amount of detail on the dress. The embroidered and beaded lotus flowers on the hem of the dress to the silk ribbon appliqué and embroidery on the bodice of the dress. Color is a key to the collection, a lot of pinks, a lot of blues and a lot of soft shades of red.

In the third section twists the Japanese theme with dominatrix and little anime. For the evening section Galliano moved back to the New Look for the gowns. With an emphasis on a lot of layering and a lot of dramatic draping. I was a little stunned by one of the evening gowns. The pink and grey stripe gown is done in the same fabric Alexander McQueen used for his parachute gown for the Vogue “Marie Antoinette” shoot with Kristin Dunst. The inspiration of this season is the heavy overcoat and volume draped skirts. One of the great inspirational pieces from the collection is the classic day dress In a kimono style. The dress skirt is a full shape with a embroidered and beaded floral design. Another inspirational look is one of the black silk taffeta jacket embroidered with a floral design and detailed with tube beading. The bead work is continued onto the skirt in vertical bands around the skirt.

Of coarse Galliano has at least one museum piece in the collection. Fortunately for the French model Morgan Doubled was the model wearing it. A tiered floor length evening gown made up of tiers of layered silk crepe. The color of the dress shifts from blood read around the bodice to jet-black on the bottom of the dress. What really made this gown interesting is how Galliano dropped the layers into three sections, giving the gown the appearance of three lengths. I was saddened by the cookie cutter vision and style that Galliano presented this season. In the end Galliano like his fellow couturiers have forgotten that couture is supposed to impure ready to wear. This season John simply focused on the Dior client who loves the classic Dior look and want to add new or growing collection in their closet.

View complete collection at style.com

[images via style.com]