Designer Kris Van Assche’s inspiration for Fall/Winter 07’ is classic American sportswear meet the dandy. The opening section is drenched in a lot of black and a little dressed up. The focus is in incorporating contrast piping on the seaming and a small splash of yellow on a few looks. The second section is more street chic with prints incorporated into the looks. The look is a loose leg pant, vest and a lot of plaids. One of the strongest looks from the second section is a orange/gray/black plaid print jacket worn with a white dress shirt and black cotton twill full-leg pant. Another great look in this section is a black pin-stripe suit. The suit jacket is detailed with white piping on the arms and shoulder. The closing section was a series of puff jackets with male models escorting female models wearing a stronger look. The puff jackets are a bad repeat from last season. The strongest pieces and statement from the collection are all the pants. Van Assche presented a large number of different style pants all with a full leg.

The must have pieces from the collection are two of Van Assche’s outerwear pieces. First is the black wool overcoat with a wide lapel and collar. The seaming on one side of the coat is detailed with blue piping. The other must have piece is the black and white plaid bomber jacket with a black faux fur collar. The only thing you should steer clear from is a velvet pant in the collection. One of the low-trends of the collection, besides the obvious puff jackets were the pants stuffed into the boot trend. While this is one of Van Assche’s signature traits, a whole collection of pants stuffed into boots was a little overboard. Overall Van Assche had several strong pieces and looks through out the collection.

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Miles Socha at WWD reported today that Dior Homme is ending their contract with designer Hedi Slimane. Dior executives have chosen Belgian designer Kris Van Assche as his replacement. Van Assche has worked with Hedi Slimane previously at Dior Homme and Yves Saint Laurent. His namesake collection premiered at Paris Fall/Winter 2005 collections. While his first collection was widely praised his last two collections have struggled to please the critics, including myself.

Although I am happy to see Slimane go, the innovation of the Womens line was never shared with Slimane, He tended to keep to his signature look and not shape the line by Dior’s standard. That skinny leg pant is slowing disappearing but Slimane won’t give up a good thing. Hopefully his own label will give him the freedom he needs. Fingers crossed for Van Assche!

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This season Jean Paul Gaultier adorned the models with many version of the “halo”. The religious imagery translated easily into the collection, although Gaultier has always used religion in his collection. The opening section is a focus on a cleaner and more tailored look, he played with the whole bordering androgyny. One of the standout looks in this section is a play on the suit dress. The jacket is crafted with structure in mind, back in 91’ Gaultier showed introduced his self-closing jacket. This jacket is modern twist of that jacket but he gives it a 40’s post war look. This look lead into the second section which he pays respect to the 40’s post war woman with classic two piece looks and dresses. Gaultier shortens the length and gives it a sexy edge. For the evening section Jean Paul unleashed several romantic looks that span many eras and encompasses several iconic images. They range from the sun gods to the goddess of mother earth. One of the key looks in the evening section is a white floor length gown. The gown is covered in texture, from beading to frayed fabric, embroiderey and crocheted trim.

The two inspirational pieces from the collection are two dresses from the second section. First is the Spanish theme cocktail dress. The dress is constructed with the bodice encrusted with a beaded Mexican theme design. The bodice of the dress is beaded with a fruit and floral theme and the skirt is done in two-tone silk chiffon with floral embroidery on bottom of the skirt and the hem trimmed with black lace. The other inspirational piece is the black a-line dress that is completely covered in black beading and crystals. The bottom of the dress is showered with palettes, the religious reference is a cross opening on breast of the dress. In short this collection is classic reference for Gaultier but his execution the key. Sometimes Gaultier goes over the top with his couture collection. This season the gowns and dresses could possibly mistaken for a Prêt-a-Porte collection. Unfortunately you can’t do embroidery and beading at the Prêt-a-Porte prices. Bravo Monsieur Gaultier!

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John Galliano has mastered the art of delivery for House of Christian Dior. This season Galliano abandons his thirst for new and modern and give the Dior client unique and classic Dior couture looks. The inspiration for his Spring couture collection, he looks to Madame Butterfly and the romantic themes in Japanese design. The opening section is a series of colorful looks that embody the classic Dior “New Look” silhouettes. The embroidery and beading is reference to the Japanese them of the collection. One of the best visions or statements from the opening section is the layer detailing, on the skirts or jackets. To key details are the layering of a pocket flap or the sleeve cuff. One of the dramatic and unique looks in the opening section was the swan feather dress. The dressed covered with pale pink and pale blue dyed feathers and the torso is done in a pale pink silk satin embroidered and beaded with a wisteria design. Another strong look from the opening section is one of the “new look” designs. A strapless floor length column dress in a vibrant yellow and embroidered with a lotus flower design. The dress is worn with a oversized evening coat, embroidered with the lotus flower and the hem is layered.

For the second section Galliano mixes Dior’s New Look with the Japanese kimono. One of the most detailed and unique piece in this section is a deep pink china doll dress. The dress is done in a deep pink silk crepe layered and the fabric is draped from one shoulder and layered across the hip. The big treat of this look is the amount of detail on the dress. The embroidered and beaded lotus flowers on the hem of the dress to the silk ribbon appliqué and embroidery on the bodice of the dress. Color is a key to the collection, a lot of pinks, a lot of blues and a lot of soft shades of red.

In the third section twists the Japanese theme with dominatrix and little anime. For the evening section Galliano moved back to the New Look for the gowns. With an emphasis on a lot of layering and a lot of dramatic draping. I was a little stunned by one of the evening gowns. The pink and grey stripe gown is done in the same fabric Alexander McQueen used for his parachute gown for the Vogue “Marie Antoinette” shoot with Kristin Dunst. The inspiration of this season is the heavy overcoat and volume draped skirts. One of the great inspirational pieces from the collection is the classic day dress In a kimono style. The dress skirt is a full shape with a embroidered and beaded floral design. Another inspirational look is one of the black silk taffeta jacket embroidered with a floral design and detailed with tube beading. The bead work is continued onto the skirt in vertical bands around the skirt.

Of coarse Galliano has at least one museum piece in the collection. Fortunately for the French model Morgan Doubled was the model wearing it. A tiered floor length evening gown made up of tiers of layered silk crepe. The color of the dress shifts from blood read around the bodice to jet-black on the bottom of the dress. What really made this gown interesting is how Galliano dropped the layers into three sections, giving the gown the appearance of three lengths. I was saddened by the cookie cutter vision and style that Galliano presented this season. In the end Galliano like his fellow couturiers have forgotten that couture is supposed to impure ready to wear. This season John simply focused on the Dior client who loves the classic Dior look and want to add new or growing collection in their closet.

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Ricardo Tisci’s inspiration for Spring is a visit to Tisci’s seaside hometown and exploring the local folk-lore. The overall look is the deconstruction we saw repeatedly during the 1980’s. The opening section was a little out in left field with his slinky silhouettes covering the models entire body paired with his fountain hats. The opening section was a series of simple pieces, designed with clean lines and the emphasis on draping. There were a few print looks but they really did not compliment the overall look. The prints had a bit of an 80’s Versace reference and look to them. In the second section Tisci give us color, from dark navy to vibrant yellow. All of a sudden the draping and silhouette becomes more feminine and less drastic. One of the standout looks in this section is the gray silk chiffon and organza strapless gown. The top of the gown is done with fans of pleated chiffon while the shorter underskirt is silk organza structured in a diamond waffle design. Then a single layer of silk chiffon draped over and trimmed with three layers of the waffle design in the same chiffon fabric.

The must have piece and possibly a museum piece is the fisherman theme jacket. The chiffon jacket is covered with a pale nude fishnet and then encrusted with composite palettes, beading and fish scale shaped pieces of leather. An interesting piece but very imaginative and heavily detailed! The contrast from the opening looks to the closing section is confusing. The two really do not compliment each other. While I found a lot of the closing pieces very dramatic and inspirational, absent is the felling that this is a Givenchy collection. What is evident is Tisci is really torn on the whole Givenchy style and his personal design is soaked all over the collection.

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The inspiration for his Spring couture collection Murad mixed sexy lingerie crafted with delicate floral printed and embroidered couture fabrics. The opening section is a shift from shades of rose and turquoise to nude and then back to turquoise. One of the standout pieces in the opening section is a mauve silk satin floor length gown. The fabric is printed with a floral design done in gold leaf. The fabric is weaved in and out of band of gold fabric that is tied around the waist. Another great gown in the opening section is another silk satin gown. The fabric is embroidered and detailed with crystal beading. The embroidery coves the entire body of the strapless gown and trimming the cape drape, which drops from the waist.

Murad’s focus this season is on a defined silhouette, its long and fluid. He also gives us another great collection of heavily embroidered and detailed looks. At the close of the collection Murad really focused on some showstoppers. Some of the gowns were very reminiscent of showgirl gowns from Vegas. One of the most dramatic gowns was a sheer nude tulle strapless gown that is heavily encrusted with beading and embroidery. Yes it’s a little over the top and you might as who in their right mind would wear something so decadent. You won’t see it on red carpet but gowns like this are must haves in the Middle East. Overall the whole collection is a nonstop parade of must have gowns for his Middle East clients.

The key pieces from the collection are not the long evening gowns. Rather the short cocktail dresses! Murad only showed 3 cocktail dressing in the whole collection. One of the must have looks is one of the cocktail dresses. The dress is a double layer of pale turquoise tulle. The fabric is draped in two tiers with the tiers intersection with fern leaf embroidery. The skirt and bodice of the dress is detailed with channels of embroidered leafs design with crystal highlights. The waist of the dress is finished with a pale turquoise satin ribbon and bow. The other must have look from the collection is a floor length strapless gown. The bodice of the gown is cinched pale seafoam green silk chiffon and the skirt is column drape of sheer green silk organza. The organza skirt is covered with a velvet embroidery and crystal detailing. The look is finished with a draped cape from waist of pale seafoam green silk chiffon. The opening of the drape is detailed with the velvet floral embroidery. What would have really made this a strong collection if Murad had shown more dresses.

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A classic romantic, Elie Saab is probably one of the most hopeless romantics in couture. The vision for his Spring couture collection is a focus on clean lines created by delicate fabrics, a difficult fete. This inspiration is reminiscent in his last Spring/Summer collection. Unfortunately we saw several of last seasons trends molded into this collection, like ruffles, organ pleated gowns and a lot of lace. One of the strongest statements from the collection are the color blocked and striped chiffon gowns. One of my favorites gowns in the opening section was a pale taupe silk crepe halter-top gown. The gown is layered with wide ruffles of silk crepe from the waist to the floor. The silk crepe is embroidered with a silver thread in channel design on the ruffles and silver floral embroidery and beading on the halter-top.

Saab is well known for his ability to incorporated color into his collection, while keeping to the basic primary colors of collection. Namely giving us white, red and metallic shades through out the collection. Another staple is the black dress and gown. This season Saab showed two show stopping black gowns. First was a black silk chiffon strapless gown. The bodice and the bottom of the gown covered with flowers made from the black silk chiffon and detailed with beading. The waist is finished with a black silk satin sachet. The other gown is a beaded black chiffon gown with the beaded fabric draped over one shoulder, across the bust and dropping under the arm. The gown appears to be hanging from the one shoulder. Gravity is certainly a theme for this gown!

The strongest statement for Saab in this collection is the color blacked and striped gowns. He printed the skirt of the gowns with stripes of black, gray and several pale colors. The first gown is a strapless gown; the bodice of the gown is wrapped horizontally with black chiffon. The bodice has a band of black crystals in single wide stripe. The skirt is double draped pale gray silk chiffon. The chiffon is printed with black and dark gray arch design, like a crescent moon. The look is finished with black taffeta shrug jacket. The second gown is another color-blocked evening gown. The bodice of the gown is done in black silk taffeta, gathered and draped over one shoulder. The skirt is two layers silk chiffon with a pinwheel print of black, pale blue and green. What is really lacking in this collection is vision for the future or future collections. Couture collections are supposed to be built off the idea of inspiring future seasons. In the late 90’s many envisioned or predicted the death of couture. As a result, several designers shifted their couture collections to appeal to a mass market. Saab is certainly a victim to this frame of design and couture is still thriving and become to obtainable. Some complain the spectacle of fashion shows today, others state its due to designers are designing for clients rather than providing inspiration.

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From the Nordic North design Gaetano Navarra paraded his models right out of the snow blizzard! Not literally but the designer sprayed the models with white dust to make them look like they just got in from a blizzard. Right from the opening of the collection Navarra jumped into this seasons big trends. Chunky knits, leather jackets and fur on everything from gloves to outerwear. In the opening section two looks really jumped out at me, both are my must have pieces for the collection. Moving into the second section Navarra shifted to a darker color palette while play with his knits and outerwear pieces. One of the standout pieces is a gray corduroy fur collar jacket. Another strong look form the second section is a dark brown knit cardigan worn with a pair of dark chocolate leather pant. I was mad about the combination of the knit cardigan paired with the lather pant. A look I did not see last season when knits took a huge jump.

In the closing section Navarra mixed the collection up by showing several looks for day rather than evening. Large portions of the pants that he showed through out the collection were velvet, one of last season’s leftover trends. While he showed a few of last seasons trends, Navarra did play with some of this seasons top trends. One trend is gloves; he incorporates driving gloves with evening looks and then fur trimmed gloves and mittens with almost every look. He even trimmed several outerwear pieces with fur. One great example is the skunk scarf worn with a long tweed overcoat. Another trend that Navarra played with are detailed dress shirts. One of these great pieces was a gray stripe dress shirt detailed with satin ribbon on the front and back to look like suspenders and trimming the sleeve cuff.

While I fell in love with Navarra’s knit and leather pant look. The two must have pieces form the collection are two of the unique pieces from the collection. First is the v-neck cashmere argyle sweater. The argyle design is incomplete giving us a modern take on a classic design. The other must have piece is the dark olive green wool cropped p-coat. The front of the jacket is embellished with a Nordic design done in black beading palettes. On a side note I was little confused with why Navarra insisted on having disco balls scattered on the ground of the runway. The balls didn’t compliment the collection or the Baroque style space. While I found many great pieces in the collection one of the biggest disappointments is all of the tapered leg pants used throughout the collection and all of the velvet. It would have been nice to see the pants be more relaxed, I would like to have also seen more embellishment in the designs.

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Designer Italo Zucchelli gives us another too safe Calvin Klein menswear collection. Zucchelli did incorporate techno fabrics with some of the classic Klein tailored and styled looks. Unfortunately these modern fabrics were too little and deem to drown with the whole Klein aesthetic. The opening section was done in a blue gray palette. Slowly Italo added color by jumping from the grays into shocking yellow. In the second section the move was made back to grays and mixing in a lot of black. One of the standout pieces in this section was the straight leg pleated pant. While Zucchelli opted to not to loosen his pant leg more, the straight leg pant is hope. Another strong look from the second section was a black silk/wool blend suit. The suit is loosely tailored around the middle of the arm and torso and then slight tapered at the wrist and hip and flared. Giving the suit a modern line, a look not normally seen at Calvin Klein.

For the third section Zucchelli moved away from the blue and grays of the second section and focus on leather, sheer and plastic fabrics. One of the strongest looks from the section is an all black look. It’s a black wool collarless overcoat worn with a sheer black shirt and a black tapered leg pant. The jacket neckline is detailed with a strip of white in the absence of the classic lapel. Another strong look from this section is a white satin jacket. The satin fabric is overlaid with a clear plastic fabric; the look is finished with a dark gray wool pant and plunging neckline top.

The two must have pieces from the collection are two bold statements from Calvin Klein. First is one of the big trends this season, leather. The must have leather piece is a black ostrich leather-driving jacket. The other must have piece is the vibrant canary yellow merino knit cardigan worn with a pale canary yellow v-neck shirt. The strongest pieces from the collection are the heavy tops and outerwear pieces, a key trend for the season. I would like to have seen Zucchelli really explore more with the collection, adding more color or even more prints. If Zucchelli could simply take something from Costa or just be on the same page. There is certainly a big difference between the design elements of the mens and womens collections.

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Mad Max is back from Thunderdome! Brothers Dean and Dan Caten look to the future but a future derived back in the 80’s. The opening section is a series of classic sportswear that are embellished with all the straps/pockets and zippers you could possible need. The look was all over the place, from truckers and dandy’s to western. The common theme in the collection was all the embellishments on each piece. In the opening section the Caten brothers kept the pant leg tapered to the ankles. The standout pieces were the leather pants; the zipper and pocket details give the pants a punk look. Didn’t hurt that they showed the pant on models wearing no tops!

In the second section Dean and Dan added more color and the pants and denim started to loosen up in the leg. Although the look is still all over the place in this section, the Caten brothers seemed to be stuck to some of last season’s trends. From the puff jacket to the dandy trucker! One of the unique trends the duo played with this season was the fur coat. The piece is a dyed fur coat! One of the standout pieces in the second section is a military style jacket that is usually done in heavy wool fabric. The jacket is done in muted military green leather with the sleeve tailored close to the arm. In the third section the look begins to shift into evening, with the classic DSquared2 trucker still an inspiration. The highlight of the evening section is the large number of black leather outerwear pieces and pants. Another unique look was the black silk satin tuxedo with a matching bulletproof vest. Now tell me you won’t need something like this when the world goes to hell!

The two must have piece from the collection are two black leather outerwear pieces. First is a black leather hip-length coat with a mow collar and lapel. The other must have piece is a black leather driving jacket, worn with a riding pant style denim pant. While the inspiration palette for most Dean and Dan Caten’s collection tends to be all over the place. This season the collection seemed to lack a fluid look or statement. The strongest looks in the collection incorporated their whole world destruction vision and the key pieces to look are the leather pieces. Sexy is the Caten brother’s way of life but this season they seem to get lost in their theme!

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For Fall/Winter Valentino opted to keep his classic style the defining vision for the look of the collection. Overall Valentino presented a very simple collection with very little experimentation. The only trend that I really took from the collection is the heavy outerwear for day and evening. In the opening section he opened with a series of all white (and I mean all white) looks, everything from the pants, shirts, outerwear and accessories. Two of the standout pieces in this section are two outerwear pieces. First a crisp white double breasted overcoat worn with a bright white linen suit. The other must have piece is a white leather driving jacket with a wide collar.

In the second section Valentino presented a large series of day suits done in black and grays. There were a few brown looks in this section. One of the standout pieces was a classic camel wool double-breasted overcoat with a wide lapel and collar. One of the standout suits in this section was a dark charcoal gray pinstriped suit. The tailoring is looser in the jacket, which the pant is tailored with a straight leg. For the evening section Valentino moved away from grays and browns and focused on all black. Showing everything from his classically tailored tuxedos. Lacking from this section is a play with the shapes he gave his outerwear pieces early in the collection.

This season Valentino gave us two must have looks. First is the gray tweed overcoat worn with a gray pinstripe pant and black knit cardigan. The other must have look is a brown suede overcoat worn with a gray wool/silk blend pant with a straight leg. To finish off the look Valentino added a pale gray cashmere turtleneck sweater. Both looks are certainly do not fit into the classic Valentino vision, its shows that Valentino can step out of the tailored look and give us a everyday look that still looks tailored. Overall I would like to have seen Valentino experiment on these looks and vision. While the overall statement from the collection is to keep a steady look, change has to happen.

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This season designer Alessandro Dell’Acqua showed a relatively small collection, only 32 looks total. The color palette is very limited this season, Dell’Acqua accents with black while splashing a few red and green pieces throughout the collection. In the opening section the designer showed several of last season trends, from the puff jackets to monochromatic knitwear. One of the standout looks in the opening section was a red patent leather bomber jacket. The look is finished with a tapered leg pant. Throughout the collection Alessandro showed a variation of looks giving us both the classic tapered leg pant and a straight leg for comfort. In the second section, through sea of black, another strong piece was a black nylon jacket lined with faux black shearling.

The must have pieces from the collection are both from the closing section. First is a black silk/wool blend overcoat with black satin lined lapels. The overcoat is worn with metallic knit turtleneck sweater and tapered leg pant. Another must have piece from the collection is the black leather tuxedo jacket with satin lined lapels, One of the most unique pieces from the collection. In the end of the collection I loved the experimentation of the evening look but lacking was a strong pant for men. Something else that is lacking from the collection is this season’s need for leather pieces. While Dell’Acqua did give us several standout outerwear pieces, it would have been nice to see him add more leather pieces to the collection.

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Designer Johan Lindberg’s “new luxury” for Fall/Winter is a collection of layered looks. From the opening section to the closing section, Lindberg presented a sea of black and gray looks with a few tones of green mixed into some gray looks. One of the strongest statements that Lindberg presented this season was abandoning the skinny leg pant completely for a full/baggy leg pant. One of the standout looks in the opening section was a black wool full leg pant worn with a cropped gray wool-driving jacket. Lindberg gave the jacket a military style collar and molded the shoulder with a shoulder pad.

The new luxury look was not popping out at me, instead what I was seeing was a varied look of well dressed seamen with a disheveled artist. Lindberg did show several knitwear pieces throughout the collection, but one of the strongest trends he used was the glove. Another great trend is the knit cap, which was shown on most of the black looks. Black is modern but Lindberg really gives black decadence with his eye for layering. One of the standout black looks in the second section is a cropped black wool p-coat with double pockets. The look is finished an extra long knit shirt and baggy leg black wool pant. Another strong look from this section is a charcoal gray wool overcoat worn with a matching gray wool pant.

In the third section Lindberg started to add more color to the collection along with leather pieces. One of the great color leather pieces is tan oil treated leather trench coat worn with a brown wool pant and knit top. A great example of Lindberg’s layering that he used through out the collection is one of the tan looks. A cropped off white driving jacket worn over a waist-length knit vest over extra long light brown dress shirt. To finish off the look, a baggy pair of brown tweed pants.

The must have looks from the collection are to leather looks from the close of the collection. First a cropped black leather driving jacket with a straight tailored sleeve. To complete the look a pair of high waisted black wool pants with a double pleated. The other must have leather look is a black leather blazer treated with a sheen. To finished the look a pair of baggy black wool/silk pant, the silk gives a sheen to the pant. The layering is a highlight of the collection the leather pieces and pants are its strong points. The show closed with a female model, I am okay with designer previewing the womenswear collection by showing a few looks in the mens show. But I have a problem when mens collection is overpowered by the womens look or in this case closes the show with a womens look rather a mens look. Although Lindberg did not mold his collection on the new movement of future trend, I was excited to see his vision of give menswear a layered and covered up look. While introducing a new trend for the season, double pleated pants! Bravo Monsieur Lindberg!

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This season designer Neil Barrett swings back and forth between a black and white palette. The play between the good and bad or the yin and yang is the visual statement for the collection. While some designers chose the glove as it accessory for the season, Barrett opts for the classic bowler hat. The opening section is a series of black and gray looks with a mix of metallic silver pieces. The experimentation of the black and white is mixed with varying lengths, like short or ¾ length sleeve shirts worn over long sleeve shirts. A great example of this style is one of the standout pieces in the opening section. A white cotton dress shirt worn with the sleeves rolled up over a gray long sleeve knit shirt. The key to this look is the gray wool slack with a contrast stripe vertical on the leg.

In the second section Barrett shows more outwear looks mixed with a few knitwear pieces. The selection of knits is sparse with only one knit design repeated throughout the jacket. One of the misses in this section are the series of puff jackets we saw last Fall/Winter. Another standout look in the opening section that exhibited this look is a black wool overcoat. The coat is sleeveless while the length of the coat is long, below the waist. For the closing section Barrett showed a stream of black looks done in shiny fabrics.

The must have piece of the collection is an oversized overcoat in black wool with a wide lapel. The design might look simple but the seaming detail is defined and the shape of the jacket is a silhouette I would like to have seen more throughout the collection. Barrett also seemed to be all over the place with his pants, a problem many designers are struggling with this season. Overall the look and inspiration that I saw throughout the collection were 80’s themes and details. From the pants covered with zippers or pockets, parachute pants, even the 80’s style teardrop weave sweaters.

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