Gentucca Bini’s drew inspiration for Spring/Summer from the lines and shapes of deco design along with a loose form and earthy texture fabrics. An odd combination but the result is a collection of unique and bold Americana style pieces and looks. The color palette is a mixture of greens, browns to oranges and rust. While Bini did use several of last seasons big trends like the bubble shape and hem and even leggings and skinny leg pants. She made sure to move the trend away from the standard design shapes that other designers played with. Bini achieved this fete by draping the shapes on the bias and played with textured fabrics and even shinny fabrics. One of the standout looks in the opening section really exemplifies this idea, a strapless silver/green silk taffeta dress. The dress is loosely tailored around the waist and the hem of the dress is draped with a ruffle on the bias. The look is finished off with a cropped waist brown cashmere cable knit cardigan with a ¾ length sleeve. Another strong piece in the opening section is a brown silk taffeta collarless top with a balloon hem. The piece is worn with a purple silk merino cable knit cardigan that is cropped above the waist.

In the second section Bini showed more knitwear pieces, the emphasis is on the rich knits and rich colors. One of the standout knit pieces from the section is a orange wool and angora blend collarless cardigan. The waist is cropped and cardigan look is finished with a scooped neck brown wool crepe dress. While bundling up last Spring/Summer was a must in many places, Bini seems to have take heart the need for strong color pieces to warm up to. The result is a number of warm pieces that could easily move into the Fall/Winter season. One of the standout outerwear pieces in the collection is a black/gray wool tweed jacket that is trimmed in black wool on the collar and seaming. Giving the jacket a real strong structured look, unfortunately a lot of the design was very unstructured and loose.

One of the must have pieces from the collection is one of Bini’s outerwear pieces, a brown and olive green jacket. The detailing on the waist and lapels of the jacket are the key. Another must have piece or pieces from the collection are the few knit pieces in the collection. Bini choose to show several cropped waist cardigans with ¾ length sleeves. The cardigans were shown in several colors, from chartreuse, orange, pink and two shapes of green. While Bini was really focused on a cleaner palette this season, the direction of the collection was still conscious of her design style. I would like to have seen more shape in the looks while being dedicated to the loose form she strives to create. One of the highlights out of the collection is her outwear and knitwear pieces. While I was on the fence with this collection Bini really gave us a series of non-stop strong pieces. Bravo Madame Bini!

View complete collection at Wireimage

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