You mix McQueen, Jeremy Scott and a little Heatherette in a bowl and what do you get? Justin Davis and his label Davis Eyes & A.N.G.E.L. In the opening section Davis sent out a series of cult looks that mix the pop world with the modern jersey looks Norma Kamali. The combination of fabrics Davis used in these looks did not complete the looks or the overall feeling of the collection. While there was a rocker chick feel to the collection, piece after piece the show was a parade of the same look. The first two looks to open the collection were a brocade dress and skirt/top combination. There were too many types of brocade used in each of these garments. One of the standout pieces in the opening section was the cream jersey mini dress with long sleeves and band of gold brocade fabric trimming the hem of the dress.

The must have piece from the collection is the strapless purple pop print dress with a ruffled hem. Take the hot pink and purple drape below the waist and you have a cute dress, less is more when the look is more on more. At the close of the collection I was a little confused with the last look, a model walked out with the crotch of her leggings hanging between her legs. You can see the play with lines in several of the looks but Davis is to focused on making each look unique that she did not realize that there is no real fluid design from one look to another. In the end I would love to have seen more loud prints from Davis and less of the minimalism.

View complete collection at Vogue Australia

[images via Australian Vogue]

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Designer Chitra Mangma tends to steer clear of a flashy fashion design when creating her collection. This season Mangma opened her collection with a series of dress looks done in a very simply boxy shape and in a dark color palette. My first reaction to the opening was the looks were to frumpy and effortless. For the second section Mangma started to add more color as well as some prints. This move away from boxy design resulted in some really tailored and feminine looks. On of these standout looks were the Windsor check baggy leg pedal pushers. Chitra used two different Windsor check prints to detail the pant cuffs and sides. The look was completed with a cape shape red wool jacket and black and white print blouse with copper satin ribbon detailing.

The must have pieces from the collection are two pant looks. First is the pleated full leg Windsor check dress slack with a matching draped sleeve jacket. The other must have look is the olive green and black Windsor check full leg slack worn with a olive green short sleeve jacket. The jacket is made of a green knit fabric that is detailed with black satin ribbon square weave and the lapel are lined with a pinstripe fabric. While these 3 looks really stood out in the middle of the collection, Mangma swung back to the boxy structured looks for the close of the collection. Those three looks in the middle of the collection is proof that Mangma has the talent. One of the things she needs to steer from is abundance of different fabrics used in a single look. In the two Windsor check print looks Mangma exhibited the ability of constraint.

View complete collection at Vogue Australia

[images via Australian Vogue]

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Designers Ashley Harrison and Peggy Monikos took inspiration from Audrey Hepburn in the 50’s and mixed it a little of “Petticoat Junction”. The combination is full endless possibilities of frills and girly details mixed with a clean lines and masculine shapes. In the opening section the duo showed leggings with several looks although there was only one print used in the whole collection. One the standout looks in the opening section was a crisp clean white dress with a dress shirt collar and little ballooned sleeves finished with a ruffle. The fabric used for the dress is white cotton voile with an embroidered dot on the fabric.

The overall statement of the collection is a strong but demure woman in very clean and simple designs. There is some details in the looks but overall Harrison and Monikos were grabbing at a style not their own. They duo got lost in the design references and forgot to give the looks their design aesthetic to tie the collection together, leggings is not a aesthetic! One of the must have looks from the collection is the long sleeve black jersey mini dress with the hem of the skirt, belted waist and neckline finished with a cream cotton voile. While there were a few standout looks in the collection, I would like to have seen more length in the collection. Most of the skirts were short or knee length.

View complete collection at Vogue Australia

[images via Australian Vogue]

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At Xenheist its more hooded jackets and plaids but its Bernard Taylor’s full leg pant that is the show stopper. While he incorporated a paisley print into one look, one of the strongest looks from the collection are all the full leg pants, which he showed with several printed t-shirts. Another strong pant look was a black cotton full leg pant with a diamond print on the fabric. The pant is worn with a white and black pullover that has a snap hood. In the closing section Taylor showed a series of matching pant and jacket suits. The fabric for the suits was a combination of odd color palettes used in the prints.

The must have piece from the collection is the read and gray plaid print jacket. The design is very simple and clean but Taylor added some modern embellishment like the dashes on the collar bone which a suto-military. The look is completed with a black wool full leg pant. While Taylor was keeping with a loose silhouette for mens the overall focus of the collection was little off base. On a side note, in the designer notes the designer listed Gemma Ward as a client. Now I don’t see Gemma Ward as being the burly gurly kind of girl.

View complete collection at Vogue Australia

[images via Australian Vogue]

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Designer Vivienne Westwood launched her new line for Nine West at Macy*s New York Flagship. Here is a quick video that was posted up onto Youtube today by the Fleishman-Hillard team.

* The must haves are Vivienne's Ballerina flat and her Beufort purse!

To view the complete collection visit - Vivienne Westwood at Nine West.com (click the image below)

Thank you Chet Gulland for sending the news!

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Under Constructions looked to their over 25 market and saw the 80’s and Japanese minimalism staring back at them. Designers Jill Crabb and Helen Miraudo opened the collection with several lace pieces and looks. Giving us a number of lace looks that incorporated some of the big trends of last season, hoods and sleeveless tops. The overall result is the tops and looks were too 80’s, like the sleeveless and hooded all lace pullover with no backing or lining. As the collection progressed Crabb and Miraudo added more tailored pieces. The focus of these pieces was to air on the minimal side of design. One of the strongest pieces in this section was olive green skirt with a silkscreen print of three belts in a cream white. The look was finished with a black lace wrap top.

In many of the other looks the tailoring is really loose on the models. The sizing or fitting is actually too loose. I am not sure if that is the look the duo was going for in hopes the UC customer could see that the clothes could be worn in larger sizes. While they did show a few prints in the collection, none of them really jumped out. The must have piece from the collection is the white jersey long sleeve top with a wrapped waist worn with a dark olive green silk knee length skirt. I could see that Crabb and Miraudo’s reference to shapes synonymous to Garcons and Miyake but the overall execution of the looks is lacking proportion and structure. Overall it felt like a bad version of Project Runway.

View complete collection at Vogue Australia

[images via Australian Vogue]

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For his Spring/Summer 2007 collection designer Jake Mason abandoned his abundant use of color for a dark palette. In the opening section Mason showed a number of looks that are common stock for menswear today. Everything from skinny leg pants to hooded coats. One pant trend that I saw in San Francisco and again at Mayson is the low crotch pant. A trend I hope will not translate further. Mason did however touch on the whole print craze this season, offering his customer a couple printed shirts and even some knitwear pieces. One of the standout pieces was the black and white checkerboard knit sweater with a wide crewneck.

Later in the collection did add more color to the collection. Most of the color is focused in the knit pieces. Another big trend that Mason showed and two of the must have pieces from the collection are two knit pieces. First is the gray merino wool cardigan with a band of red trimming the opening of the cardigan. The other must have piece is the bottle green merino wool cardigan. The cardigan is extra long, draping down to the crotch. Sadly both cardigans were worn with a skinny leg pant. Last season Mason used an abundant amount of color in his collection. Although there were a few color pieces and prints used in the collection. The lack of color is a distraction.

View complete collection at Vogue Australia

[images via Australian Vogue]

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Girly, Feminine, Girly, designer Mira Vukovic’s Mad Cortes collection is full of fairytale shapes, ruffles and bubble shapes. In the first section Vukovic showed several bubble shape looks in mild tones of color. Sadly a lot of the opening looks had no fluid look, it seemed as though Mira was all over the place. Showing a series of last season trends, each look more monochromatic rather than mixed together. In the second section she jumped away from mild color palette and showed a long series of all black and gray looks. One of the first standout pieces in this section was a dress that utilized the balloon shape with balloon shape skirt hem and shoulders. Mira used a treated black and grey cotton fabric that looked like leather. The look was finished with a belt and fishnet stockings. Another strong look in this section was another balloon shape crepe dress. The skirt of the dress in done in a balloon shape with black gamine draped over one shoulder and over the bodice of the dress.

One of the best trends that Mira showed on the catwalk was a fishnet stocking which she used on several looks. There were two must have looks from collection. First is the purple and burgundy print skirt with the waistline ruffled. The skirt is short and worn with wide black velvet belt and the look is top with a black long sleeve knit blouse with drape of ruffles down the front and the shoulder are rolled giving the blouse a Gucci look. I know the blouse ever very 4 seasons ago; the combination of skirt and the top and black knit stockings is sexy. The other must have look is the black silk crepe dress with hem of the skirt finished with a ruffle and a ruffle drape draped from one shoulder strap and down the front of the dress to the opposite hip of the dress. While the opening of the collection is muted and dull, the black section of the collection was the key to Vukovic’s design aesthetic. The all black looks had character and Vukovic’s experimentation is evident and a success giving us strong looks.

View complete collection at Vogue Australia

[images via Australian Vogue]

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Structure, tailoring, deconstruction and restructuring those are the strong viewpoints to Dhini Pararajasingham’s Spring/Summer collection. It’s evident that Dhini brought her tailoring talent from London into her collection. Previously Dhini was a member of the Boudicca design team and now she is testing the waters of Australia with her new label. The result is a tidal wave of design and structure. In the opening section she showed a series of restructured deconstructed looks, reworking classic pieces while adding new lines to each piece. Like rounding the edges of jacket openings, cropping trench coats on a bias as well as giving a slim pant balloon shape thigh. One of the standout of looks in the opening section is a gray cropped trench coat with long sleeves. The front opening of the jacket has been reshaped with layers of crescent panels over a wishbone opening with two large buttons. A unique piece from the collection that is worn with stone color cotton short that is overlaid with a brown tweed short and sectioned with cotton short.

Another strong look in the opening section is brown silk crepe pencil skirt with a flared hem and ruffles running down the back seams of the skirt. The skirt is worn with a sheer white gamine shirt with elbow length sleeve that is finished with a ruffle cuff. The color palette for the collection was predominantly black, white and khaki brown with a splash of red here and there! Dhini only showed one print in the collection, red poinsettia print, which she used in 4 looks. One of the standout print looks was the balloon shape pencil skirt worn with a skinny white belt and another version of Dhini’s cropped trench coat. This version has a short sleeve and matching belt worn high on the torso.

The must have look from the collection is longest trench coat that Dhini showed. A white cotton long sleeve trench coat with a double lapel and a flared shape to the coat, similar to a cape shape. Dhini belted the coat with the body of the coat gathered at the waist. To finish the look a matching white cotton pencil skirt a balloon shape in the front. For a small starter collection the overall execution and vision is complete. Several looks were offered from daywear to pant looks and even a few evening pieces. Two of the strongest trends Dhini emphasized was the balloon shape and belted torso’s. I am really interested in seeing more of Dhini next season, possibly a larger collection and more evening looks. Bravo Madame Pararajasingham!

View complete collection at Vogue Australia

[images via Australian Vogue]

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One of my first notes for the mens and womens at Fashionassassin was on the models hair. The womens hair was shapeless and way to messy while the mens hair was cleaner and prettier, a rare thing! For his menswear Alex continued add more bold prints but making sure they were in guy friendly colors of red/black/blue. He used a honeycomb geometric print on several looks and the print seemed to jump out at you, not in a pleasing way! There was one look that the print was done in soft canary yellow, which is probably the only toned down version of the print. The print was used on wide crewneck t-shirt with the shoulder seaming detailed with a black cotton stripe.

There is one must have piece from the collection and one must have look. First there is the olive green cardigan, which Alex used in his womenswear collection. Then there is his must have look for the season, which is a trend that we saw in San Francisco. The reverse cargo pant, a full leg cargo pant with the cargo pockets moved from the side to the front of the pant. Alex showed this pant several time throughout the collection. One of the strongest looks was the cargo pocket pant in khaki brown worn with asparagus yellow and white print shirt and white cotton vest. You have to have more than beautiful hair and cute little details to have a great collection. What is really distracting in this collection is Alex’s loud prints that opened the collection. I would like to have seen more toned down prints and more emphasis on the details

View complete collection at Vogue Australia

[images via Australian Vogue]

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At the Fashion Assassin womens collection for Spring/Summer, designer Alex Zabotto-Bentley abandons the dark palettes that several designers are using during Australia Fashion Week. His gift to us this season is pleve of prints in array of colors. While some of the prints span over several decades of design Alex focused on doing the prints in some bold colors. One of the standout prints in the collection is geometric honeycomb print done in several colors. The print was used on a short sleeve shirt worn with khaki corduroy short. The short is the key piece to the look and one of the standout trends in Alex’s collection. The cuff of the Khaki brown corduroy short is finished with a black ribbed knit elastic which creates a balloon shape to the short. This is one of the unique trends that we saw at San Francisco Fashion Week and hopefully it will carry on to NY and Paris.

Another strong print look from the collection is the brown and aqua floral and fern print. The print was used on a high waisted short sleeve dress. Alex steered away from a lot of the bid trends that we have seen recycled from the Fall/Winter collections. However he did barrow from the menswear shows in Milan and Paris with a knit cardigan. The standout knit look was a dark olive green knit cardigan. The cuffs, lapels and hem of the cardigan are finished with a ribbed knit. It’s worn with a olive green and white geometric print dress-shirt dress. The key to Alex’s womenswear is young, comfortable and certainly daring. While the designs of the clothes are very reminiscent of the 40’s with trench collar dresses the strong point of the collection is not his use a lot of new trends but his use of prints in the collection. Bravo Monsieur Zabotto-Bentley!

View complete collection at Vogue Australia

[images via Australian Vogue]

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For Spring/Summer 07’ designer Belinda Fairbanks looks to the ski bunnies of Switzerland with a drop or two of 70’s Charlie’s Angels here and there. In the opening section Fairbanks showed a series of cashmere and wool knit dresses. The detailing of the knit is very simple with a Swiss design, while the length of the dress is very short and very sexy. One of the standout dresses in this section is the navy blue cashmere knit dress. The hem of skirt and the cuffs of the long sleeve ribbed and the neckline of the dress is wide v-neck. Fairbanks showed a gray version of the same dress, both dresses were worn with a black knit stockings.

A great theme this season is resurrection of 60’s and 70’s geometric prints. The combination of earthy colors of the 70’s and bold color combinations of the 60’s date the prints but the unique design adds a modern twist. Belinda showed only a handful of strong looks in the collection using prints. One of the strongest prints was a brown and green print on silk umbrae. She used the print on two great looks; first a simple smock dress with flared sleeves. The other look is floor length gown in silk umbrae with a single shoulder strap and finished with a white silk satin belt around the torso of the dress.

The must have piece from the collection is one of Fairbanks long sleeve knit dresses. The dress is red cashmere dress knit dress with ¾ length sleeves and the hem of the dress is to the knee. The length of the knit dress creates a pencil skirt shape and the look is finished with cropped black velvet vest and black knit stockings. The overlook of the collection is very fluid and Fairbanks really took some of the best looks or trends from 60’s and 70’s. One could even say that the look for the collection is very close to Brigit Bardot in the 60’s. While Belinda chose to show a few of last seasons trends like the baby doll dress she really took a chance and did what she felt outside of the box right now. While I would have loved to have seen longer skirts or gowns in the collection, Fairbanks sexy tailoring and fluid shapes really made this collection. Bravo Madame Fairbanks!

View complete collection at Vogue Australia

[images via Australian Vogue]

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Designer Anna Thomas looked to 60’s mod and 70’s Mary Tyler Moore for inspiration of her Spring/Summer collection. Thomas kept his look very boxy and untailored; the pieces appeared to be 2-3 sizes to big for the models. One of the strongest themes in the opening section was a very soft masculine look with several pant looks. Anna kept the pant leg very loose and varied the length from long to ¾ length. One of the standout looks was a Windsor check flat-front long pant worn with a 60’s bubble print crepe long-sleeve blouse under a lavender and purple stripe v-neck sweater. Another great trend that Anna carried over was her use of plaid fabrics. The standout pieces were the handful of plaid skirts that have a high waist and a flared hem from large pleats. One in particular is the brown plaid skirt worn with pale aqua turtleneck top and a heather green knit cardigan.

In the second section Thomas added a lot more knits to her collection. One of the standout knit looks was a pale olive button-front cashmere cardigan. The knit piece was worn with a decadent 70’s hourglass print on long sleeve silk blouse, didn’t favor knee length balloon shape skirt. In the close of the collection Thomas moved away from her decadent color palette and showed several all black looks. One of the standout pieces in this section was a Givenchy style black dress often seen on Audrey Hepburn. Thomas played with the design of the dress and finished the waist of the dress with black silk sachet tied with a black satin ribbon. This look is a classic piece that can be worn for any occasion. It’s great to see that Anna still embraces the whole idea of the little black dress. It’s an essential to any woman’s wardrobe.

With so many bold pieces throughout the collection the must have looks are two day looks. First Is the red plaid knee-length skirt worn with a gray tweed blazer with black velvet detailing the lapels and pockets of the jacket. The skirt is reversed with bottom of the skirt pleats in the front and the pleats are spaced 4 inches from each other. The must have piece is the dark gray wool long sleeve button front dress. The bottom of the dress is trimmed in pale seafoam green wool and the buttons are the same sea foam green. Anna Thomas’s choice of prints and color is her focal point for Spring/Summer. Her color combinations of green and pink and sea foam and gray are daring and give life to her collection. Anna’s woman for Spring/summer is strong but still feminine. Her references to last season trends is very subtle but its her construction of the pieces that really standout. From her reverse pleated skirt to her little black dresses. Bravo Madame Thomas!

View complete collection at Vogue Australia

[images via Australian Vogue]

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For Australia the Spring/Summer collections is more like Fall/Winter. At the opening of Australia Fashion week designer Toni Maticevski took her detailed eye for couture fabrics and embroidering in dark shades while keeping the very light and feminine. In the opening section of her collection she showed a handful of looks for day that could easily move into evening. One of the standout pieces in this section was the white linen short sleeve safari shirt, belted around the waist. The shirt is draped over a layered skirt. The skirt is constructed with layers of white tulle layered over a layer of white silk voile. The top layer of the organza layer of the skirt is covered with lily of the valley embroidered and embellished with beading. Another great piece from this section is the white pencil skirt.

In the opening section the lengths varied and Toni continued to use a combination of sheer fabrics piece with heavy fabrics. In the closing section Maticevski only showed one long gown for evening. This look was a floor length chiffon gown. The chiffon is printed with a minimalist feather print, when viewed from a distance it creates a tie-dye or Indian look to the fabric. The gown is detailed with ruffles around the waist, hem of the skirt and on the bodice and straps. When this gown closed the show the editors, buyers and onlookers start clapping early. With many designers today really jumping off the deep end of design, its nice to see a designer who really embraces craft of fashion design along with construction and detail.

The must have piece from the collection is one of Maticevski’s lily of the valley pieces. A cream silk crepe sheath dress overlaid with a white organza shell covered with a embroidered and beaded lily of the valley. The organza shell has a cape shaped back while the cream crepe dress is tailored close the waist. Toni was trying to create a very feminine but very strong statement of quality and detail with her collection. While many designers are brrowing some of the trends from last season and taking these trends beyond what’s necessary or needed. Toni Maticevski was able to take these trends and create some of the softest looks that just lightly touch these trends. Maticevski certainly has set the bar high for the remainder of Australia Fashion Week. Bravo Monsieur Maticevski!

View complete collection at Vogue Australia

[images via Australian Vogue]

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Only four designers showed menswear during San Francisco Fashion Week. While there was a broad spectrum of looks, from Richard Hallmaq’s water polo suit clad models to Daniel and David Concepcion everyday chic. There were only two really strong trends shown during Fashion Week. These two trends first made light during Milan Menswear in July. One of the strongest trends hitting the mens runway is the full leg pant. Slowly designers are moving away from the slim fit or skinny leg pant. Both emerging designers J9 and Concepcion stuck to the full leg pant, while Gypsy & Loic and Hallmarq showed both the full and skinny leg pant.

Another unique trend that we saw during SF Fashion Week is the use of ribbed knit elastic to detail mens pants and shorts. This elastic is commonly used on mens bomber jackets or “member’s only” jackets. At the Gypsy & Loic collection the designer duo used the knit elastic to trim the pockets on two pants and to cuff a mens short. While the menswear shown at SFFW was very broad, what was lacking was mens eveningwear or even men’s suits. Hopefully next season we see more menswear on the runway.

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For it’s Junior Fashion Week, San Francisco’s talent and strongest statements came from some of its new participants. A vast majority of the trends we saw on the runway were repeats of last season’s (Fall/Winter) trends. Everything Ruffles, Balloon Shapes, Spanish Flare and Hooded Looks. Last season trends aside many of the younger or new designers jumped outside of the box and gave us a few trends we are starting to see on other runways post Fashion Week.

Out the repeat trends, one of the most repetitive trends throughout the fashion week was Ruffles. The repetition of ruffles from collection to collection became more of a headache. Only a few designers really took the ruffle to the next level. Like designer Cari Borja who showed several ruffle looks in her collection. Borja edited the ruffle technique by cutting the ruffle in a zigzag motion and finished the hem with a zigzag stitch. Another strong trend that Borja added to her ruffle looks was rich printed fabrics like brocades even damask fabrics.

For over 6 seasons now the world of fashion has been pushing the skinny pant onto the runway. This trend was originally developed from Hedi Slimane’s second collection for Dior and women buying up his first skinny collection like it was hot stock market item. At the menswear collections for Spring/Summer 07’ in Milan and Paris, we finally are seeing the skinny pant slowly disappear. The trend is slowly disappearing at the SF collections. Designers Kelly B, Briana Swords and Laura Sato of HisByHer took the full leg pant into their collection with open arms. While some designer added a sailor look to pant the relaxed leg is a great look for Spring/Summer 07’.

A few designers this season have taken the post war 40’s and restructured the whole look for the woman today. Three designers at San Francisco really mastered this look, from HisByHer a black silk satin dress with a button down front. With a peter pan collar and cascading pleated fans on the back of the skirt in a white silk satin. Another great look was designer Lily Samii’s hunter green cotton dress with a boxed neckline and a short sleeve lined with a ruffle. This look incorporated another new trend this season, the frayed edge. Samii finished the hem of the dress and edges of the belt with a frayed edge.

From Cari Borja, Donna Lou, Erin Mahoney to Pink Elf and Tamiece, prints were scattered all over the runway. Designers showed a broad spectrum of print designs. From modern prints in bold and brass colors of rust and copper to feminine floral prints in aqua’s and pink’s. While there were a few designers who showed some dull prints, designers like Cari Borja and Erin Mahoney flourished. Mahoney’s Pucci and St. Laurent inspired prints were vibrant and light up the runway. Designer Cari Borja only showed a handful of prints but her eye for combining contrasting prints is complete!

Lace is very delicate and certainly special and often its absent for long stints during collections. Finally lace is making a comeback! Only a few designers used lace in their collections this season, for designer Cari Borja lace added a sexy Spanish look to her feminine and earthy looks. Borja’s standout look was the black polka dot lace over a black life print on white silk. The strapless gown is made up of several tiers of silk and lace gathered creating a ruffle shape. At the Donna Lou show, designer Amanda Lefebre showed several skirt and dress looks with a polka dot lace petticoat. She also detailed the seaming on several piece with lace. Designers Besnik and Lily Samii took lace to the extreme; Samii detailed her lace with beading and cashmere tweed thread, which she threaded through the lace design.

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Designer Mary Elizabeth Primavera took her fairytales to heart with her Spring/Summer collection embellishing her black and white collection with bows and a lot of draped fabrics and balloon shapes. In the opening section Primavera showed several knickers looks and skirt looks. One of the standout looks was a gray wool skirt with cutout panels on both sides of the skirt that done in a gray wool fabric with a swirl print in a lighter gray. The skirt is worn with a halter-top in the same swirl fabric. While many designers are incorporating leggings in their collections, Primavera opted for stockings. I loved the plaid stripe stocking; the elastic is weaved in a broad plaid design.

The must have piece from the Genevieve Primavera collection is the white silk satin skirt with a black chiffon shell that is covered with little black and white bows. Another must have piece is the short hem black wool pant with a gray paisley print on the fabric. The pant leg is on the skinny side; it would have been nice if it were a fuller leg. For her S/S collection Genevieve Primavera was to focused on the idea of knickers and short lengths that several looks lacked tailoring or clean lines, instead several looks looked to baggy or not cut properly. It would also have been nice to see some color in the collection.

View the complete collection at wireimage.com

[images via Wireimage.com

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An Asian invasion, after three days of only one Asian model on the runway, the ladies of Tamiece, Pamela & Sheena Borja casted all Asian models with exception of one! I love it! To open the collection the duo hit the pavement with a series of looks with a silk satin skirt design that is the strongest pieces in the collection. The back of the skirt is finished with scalloped panels. These skirts were shown in a number of colors from white, black and brown along with panels done in black, gold and cream. The sisters played with length in this collection, in the latter half they showed several coo-lot looks, which for petite woman is a distracting proportion. Pamela and Sheena also incorporated some of last season’s trends like the balloon shape skirt and ruffles.

Several prints were used throughout the collection but the standout print was a oil and water print done in multi-color palette. Sadly I was not a fan of the pieces that created for the print. The must have piece from the collection is the wrinkled brown & white crepe blouse draped with a window opening. The blouse is worn with a with a balloon cuff denim short. The Borja sisters have a great eye and talent for their petite customer. While the focus of this collection was to give more options to the customer, the broad spectrum of looks was a little lost. Overall Tamiece collection does have one of the best skirt designs of San Francisco Fashion Week.

View the complete collection at wireimage.com

[images via Wireimage.com]

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Designers Briana Swords and Laura Sato took it to the next level with their S/S collection. Their collection is certainly the most polished collection shown during San Francisco Fashion Week. My notes were just a long list of loves, likes and positive signs of something great. The duo opted to keep with Hollywood glam theme with their collection, but their designs and tailoring of each piece really standout in each look. In the opening section Swords and Sato showed several looks for day. The pant looks had a full leg and they played with clean lines as well as some balloon shapes for their dresses and skirts. One of the standout pieces in opening section was a cream silk satin blouse with a peter pan collar and cascading down the front of the of blouse is a diamond cutout tie. The look is finished with a ¾ length sleeve white crepe jacket and a seafoam green skirt. A great piece was the white crepe pant with a 40’s deco floral print embroidered on the fabric, the pant leg is full but I was not crazy about the seafoam green jacket paired with the pant.

In the second section Briana and Laura continued their 40’s inspiration in several looks but slowly added some modern pieces. While the whole Hedi Slimane slim look is coming to a close, I did take a liking to the white cotton skinny arm jacket. The lapels are rounded and the detail of the shoulders really creates a dramatic look along with the stream of buttons along the sleeves of the jacket. Another great look from the second section is one of the playful looks of the collection. A white cotton gazar short ballerina skirt with a burnt amber silk ribbon encircling the skirt in tiers. The skirt was paired with a burgundy jacket, the jacket fabric is finished with a layered quilting technique that encompasses the bodice of the jacket and the draped skirt of the jacket. It’s a young look but both of these pieces by themselves are strong pieces that any age customer can wear.

For the evening section HisByHer keeps the 40’s glam style and showed a series of long slinky silk satin gowns. What really made these gowns standout is the construction and structure of the gowns. First there is the pale green silk satin gown, the duo used two different fabrics in the construction of the gown (matte satin and shiny satin). The gown has a wide neckline and the body of the gown is made up of long panels of alternating shiny and matte satin. The shinny satin panels are constructed in ladder quilting technique. The other satin gown is a gold silk satin gown with bands white silk satin crisscrossing the body of the dress and trimming the neckline. Both of these gowns are strong mainly because of the wow factor, both of the designers really are able to step away from such a piece at the right time. Their combined eye can really see when enough is enough a trait some designers’ lack.

The must have pieces from the collection are two silk satin looks. First is the black silk satin button front dress with a white silk satin peter pan collar. Adorning the sides and back of the dress are tiers of fan shapes of white silk satin and pleated to create or movement around the dress. The other must have piece from the collection is the black pleated satin skirt. A pleated vent typically found on the back hem of a skirt is moved to the front, changing the movement of the skirt. There are so many strong pieces in the collection that singling one out is next to impossible. If this collection is not snapped up by a department store I would be certainly surprised. There are so many pieces that are great sells in many markets. Bravo Mademoiselle Sato, Mademoiselle Swords and Madame Underwood!

View the complete collection at wireimage.com

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San Francisco is a small market, that’s what makes it young and unique. But every fashion week has that one show you love to hate and hate to love. Richard Hallmarq is certainly one of those designers, some turned up their noses while others were loving all the skin and vividness he showed for Spring/Summer. Sadly no designer notes were provided to the press on his collection and backstage approaching Richard was next to impossible. My first thought on the inspiration for the collection is its very James Bond’s “Never Say Never Again” meets Tina Turner in the 80’s - say hello Fatima Blush! Richard Hallmarq took the 80’s bold trends of parachute leg pants and excessive use of the leather to an all time high. I am not sure what was more distracting, the Water-Polo Speedos clad male models or the heavy chest model in halter-top jump suit with opened front and 80’s sliced open leg.

Hallmarq opened the collection with a series of the synched leather looks and then added some ballooned shapes. My “Fatima Blush” idea was derived from the black leather jumpsuit with one arm sliced open. The only downside to jumpsuits, if they are not tailored properly the wearer will exhibit some camel toe. Jumpsuits were certainly an evolving trend from last season; sadly I hope it begins to die. One of the better trends that Hallmarq showed was a full leg pant for men; sadly he only showed a handful of these looks. Most of the collection is a lot of repeat trends of tank tops, animal prints and ruffles. Hallmarq is a showman’s designer, if you interested in looking like a rock star, he’s your man. “The greatest rapture of my life was afforded me on a boat in Nassau by Fatima Blush”

View the complete collection at wireimage.com

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Color, Color and more Color, Anazara is exactly what a swimwear line should be. For her Spring/Summer collection designer Ana Paunovic kept it very clean in design and focusing on modern lines that draw your eyes to the suits. The modern design combined with the vibrant colors brings the collection alive. A vast majority of the collection is not for larger chest women. If you tends be bigger than a “C” cup then this is the swimwear line for you. Only on of the models was bigger than a “B” cup. One of the standout suits in the collection was the black and red strapless Lycra two-piece suit. The black Lycra is the shell for the two-piece while the red lycra acts as tie off for both the top and bottom creating a red band on the black suit.

My picks for the must have looks from the Anazara collection is certainly for all sizes out there. First is another two-piece strapless suit, this one in a pale blue/red/navy color combination. The suit shell is created by a band of each blue color connected as one, and then a band of the red Lycra laid over the seam of the two colors. The red Lycra is then tied off in the back of the top piece, and on the hips on the bottom. The other must have suit is the pale blue and red Lycra two-piece suit. The top piece is halter-top style with the breast panels emphasized with the pale blue Lycra creating a frame for the breast cup done in the red Lycra. The suit is very bold but it real compliments a woman bust line, the modern design draws your eyes away from the waist area. While I was very fond of the looks that Ana showed for Spring/Summer collection her overall design aesthetic is for a woman in a tropical location, like Brazil or Venezuela. Being the only swimwear designer is certainly a perk at SF Fashion Week, but if she showed in Rio she would certainly gain a lot more press and broaden her market. I really feel her talent is being wasted here in SF. Bravo Madam Paunovic.

View the complete collection at wireimage.com

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Rich and delicate, that is the kind of fabric’s designer Katherine Noyes showed for her Spring/Summer 07’ collection. In the opening section Noyes kept the look very simple and clean. The simplicity is in the design while the choice of fabrics is very durable. The whoops in the opening was cotton polka dot fabric that Dichotomy showed earlier in the evening. While she opted to use a lot of cotton voile in the opening section she slowly added some detail and delicate fabrics to the looks. The standout piece was the pink silk charmeuse dress with a white lace overlay. The dress was simple with a v-neckline and a-line shape skirt.

In the second section sent out a parade of tunics, tube tops and blouses all in silk charmeuse. The only downsides to these looks were the pants that completed the look. From pin stripe capri’s to skinny leg pants. As the second section moved on Noyes started to use more delicate fabrics. The standout look in this section was a black silk charmeuse spaghetti strap dress with a white lace overlaid on the breast of the dress, a simple look but very clean and minimal. In the evening section Noyes kept to her use of delicate fabrics and kept the design and shape very simple and draped. The standout look in the closing section was the pale blue halter-top evening gown. A two layered gown, the bottom layer of pale blue silk satin is overlaid with a drape of pale blue silk chiffon. The detailing on the gown includes hand beading on the halter straps and the low back design of the dress. Noyes showed duplicate version of the gown in a pale brown silk chiffon and satin.

The must have look from the collection is Noyes closing look, a beaded silk charmeuse and chiffon cocktail dress. The dress is designed with straight-line design to the dress and multi-layers font neckline. The dress shell is pale blue silk charmeuse with a layer of silk chiffon beaded with a flame design. The neckline of the dress has three layers of chiffon offset from the charmeuse shell. A stunning piece on its own, sadly I would like to have seen more work like this and the chiffon and charmeuse gowns she showed. While the pieces in the collection are polished the lack of a new design element in the pieces takes away from any strong statement that Noyes was hoping to achieve.

View the complete collection at wireimage.com

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At the Dichotomy show, designer Theresa Romero drew inspiration for her collection on the tale of a young woman pulling herself out of a depressing chapter of her life to reemerge as a woman. While the music can seem depressing with Depeche Mode and Hole, the lyrics give us hope for light at the end of the tunnel. From this story Theresa showed several looks that were very romantic and very feminine in a dark palette with bursts of color (hope) here and there. In the opening section Romero showed a handful of looks that were draped with a baggy shape, similar to the shapes we saw at Marc Jacobs last season. Another shape she barrowed from last season was the balloon shape, which she on several dresses and gowns.

Theresa Romero slowly added more looks to the collection that were really defining her design style. From her use of young and soft fabrics in dark and striking colors to the over details of the looks. One of the strong looks in the second section was the black cotton voile blouse with a mandarin collar and a keyhole front. The blouse was worn with a blush cotton voile skirt. Another strong look from the collection was the blush cotton voile dress with paneled horizontal ribbed torso and a gathered skirt. The dress is worn with a black organza and black cotton voile skirt. Both of these looks were some of the stronger look because they really had defined look and style. In the closing section Theresa fell back towards the trends of last season from balloon shapes and even Lagerfeld’s two lengths in one look.

The must have piece from the collection is the strapless red cotton voile cocktail dress. The dress is a two layered look, the top layers is a red cotton voile dress worn with a longer black seersucker cotton skirt. The look is finished with a black seersucker cotton belt with frayed edges. This dress really defines the collection as a whole. It’s young, strong and feminine! Theresa Romero has the ability to really take an idea or inspiration and really build off it. Unfortunately it would have been nice to see her tone down the use of trends in the collection.

View the complete collection at wireimage.com

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Designer Kelly B opened her collection with music that would set the tone of her inspiration for this collection. Siouxsie & Banshee’s style music marked the tone of her organic jersey looks that paraded down the runway. In the opening section alone Kelly showed 10 out of 11 looks with jersey. Her fabric of choice, Kelly’s focus is creating modern looks with organics fabrics. While jersey is a great everyday fabric its use is very limited when you start to drape and tailor it. Jersey aside I was even more confused with Kelly’s play with several of last seasons big trends. Everything from ruffles, quilted pieces, Grecian columns, leggings, and 80’s mini lengths.

One trend that Kelly really did embrace was the full leg pant, which she chose to show several sailor pants with button square front. Which showed with a black organic short sleeve top. The must have look from the collection is the black bamboo jersey gown with a halter-top and a keying crisscross back. Unfortunately the draping of the bamboo jersey on the floor length gowns was not done properly. When the models walked they tend to get caught up in the inside leg area. What was really lost in this collection was the fluid look in the collection, while her dedication to using organic textiles is evident. Style and design is all over the place, from 70’s style dresses, art & craft’s details and pieces, sailor themed looks and an abundance of ruffles. I was lost with the look Kelly was trying to achieve with her Spring Collection. On a high note, the MAC teams make for the collection was very clean and very polished.

View the complete collection at wireimage.com

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Designer Besnik was certainly drawing from themes of the 70’s and 80’s we saw last season. For his Spring 2007 collection Besnik kept a strong, sleek and sexy looks. His shape is close to the body with accents of ruffles and lace. Besnik showed several looks with the synch fabric style from the 70’s. Several designers used this technique during this week and its to fashion backwards, a look taken from Gucci collection last season. While Besnik played with last seasons ruffle, he did have few hit or misses with one of the strong trends we’ve seen during SF fashion week, Lace! Which he showed a 80’s style lace tank top reminiscent of 80’s Madonna. One of the strong lace looks that Besnik showed was the pale rose cotton jersey dress with a plunging neckline. The rose fabric is finished with a hemmed with a vibrant red and a bright aqua lace added to the synching of the fabric in the front and back of the dress. Another strong look from the collection is the black stretch jersey strapless dress. A panel of red vinyl is runs down the back of the dress adding a great contrast look to the all black dress.

The must have piece from the collection was one of the most daring pieces in all of Fashion Week. Besnik showed a black lace slip dress with no backing to the lace. Instead Besnik finished the dress with hot pink silk satin ribbon weaving in and out of the black lace and embellished the lace with sequins. A very decadent piece but a key look to Besnik’s design aesthetic. Besnik has an eye for the female silhouette but this collection was to far of a reach back to the 80’s and 70’s. I would like to have seen him focus on how his work translates to the women of today, he accomplished this fete in a handful of looks but the collection as a whole was lacking.

View the complete collection at wireimage.com

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Amanda Lefebre’s Spring/Summer 2007 collection for her Donna Lou label continues her mission of providing classic feminine looks for the modern woman today. One of her strengths in this collection is her attention to detail. Lefebre adds little details of lace petticoats under skirts or dresses to the tailoring of her blazer and pencils skirts, which is true to the historical reference of the pieces, but she adds extra lines with the seaming.

Throughout the collection Amanda showed several business looks from pant looks to skirt and blazer looks. Two of the strongest looks were both a skirt and blazer look. First was the matching mocha cotton bomber jacket and gathered waist skirt worn with a matching belt. The jacket is tailored in a bomber jacket shape with a peter collar done in moss green cotton fabric. The skirt is gathered at the waist creating a vertical ruffle shape to the skirt and cream polka dot lace petticoat. The other strong look was a nod to the pencil skirt of the 50’s. The same mocha fabric used in a matching pencil skirt and hook front blazer. Both the jacket and pencil skirt are finished with a cream antique lace, the vertical seams on the front and back of the skirt were finished with the lace, while on the jacket she trimmed the sleeve cuff, lapels, opening and pocket flaps with the cream lace.

The only looks in the collection that were not working were all the skinny leg pants Amanda showed through out the collection, although she added some shape to the pant with a flare from the knee. Lefebre’s real gems in this collection are all her dress and skirt looks. One of the standout pieces in the collection was the mocha brown cotton yoke skirt worn with a tencel tank in rose. The skirt is finished around the waist with an antique lace and the hem of the skirt is trimmed with a scalloped trim lace. Another strong look from the collection was the gray stripped wide yoke skirt worn with a white cotton button down camisole. The skirt is lined with a cream polka dot petticoat. The sleeves, collar and the font darts are trimmed with a scalloped black lace.

The must have piece from the collection is one printed look. Lefebre used a 50’s leaf pop print in a turquoise and pink color palette. The look is a spring cocktail dress with spaghetti straps and a flared skirt from the torso. The dress is clean in design she added her polka dot petticoat to the dress. Skinny pants aside Amanda Lefebre’s Donna Lou collection for Spring/Summer 07’ has a lot of strong pieces and certainly a lot of directional pieces throughout the collection. Her eye for detail is evident, what is more fascinating is her dedication to keeping with her design aesthetic. Bravo Madame Lefebre!

View the complete collection at wireimage.com

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Taking the 60’s and the 70’s and throwing it into the blender, designer Kaushie Adiseshan her focus for the Spring/Summer collection was plenty of color and playing with shapes. In the opening section she played with sever 60’s reworked prints and while working with several 70’s style fabrics. The strong point of the collection is the summer or day dresses that Adiseshan showed. While her pant looks were too boxy and the tailoring is lacking a uniform shape throughout the collection. Another down point to the collection is Adiseshan had a small selection of fabrics which he repeated frequently through the collection. Some of the strongest looks in the opening section were some of Adiseshan's silk cocktail dresses. She plaid with several prints from floral to bold polka dots.

The must have looks from the collection are two night and day dresses from the collection. First is the vertical green and teal strip dress. The stripe fabric is detailed with a pinstripe design in a gold thread. The other must have look is the 2 piece silk umbrae dress. The umbrae fabric is printed with a black and rush swirl design and the opening of the top and the belt are done in a black silk satin. Outside of the obvious inspirations in the collection, the odd note is that Adiseshan described the looks with Greek and Roman names for each look. While there are certainly some strong dress looks that will certainly sell and great for editorial, the overall look in the collection has to many looks that fall out of the focus the designer had for the season.

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Designers Gypsy and Loic keep to their Haight and SF Skater roots and build another wearable collection. While a lot of the looks in the collection a very simple the character is in the little details they added to some key pieces. The duo did show several hooded looks in the collection but their standout trend is their gravitation towards the new full leg pant we are seeing on the runway for both men and women. One of the standout pants in the collection was the full leg cotton pant with a navy and pale blue hound’s-tooth print on the fabric.

Standout pieces aside the collection was very simple and very safe, giving the Gypsy & Loic customer the essentials like cargo pocket pants and shorts in earthy colors. Gypsy and Loic added several unique details to these current day pieces. One the standout pieces was a brown corduroy pant with the pocket opening done on slant and the opening is finished with the same ribbed elastic cotton trim that is used on aviator and flight jackets. This slant opening was also used on the shorts as well. But another standout look was the gray cotton ¾ length short that the duo finished the cuff of the short with the same elastic ribbed cotton.

The must have piece from the collection is the full leg pant with that f is finished with a ridding pant look. The inside of the pant leg is detailed with the crescent seaming from the groin down to the leg, their take on the ridding pant is a more modern with numerous seams running down the inside leg. While the Gypsy and Loic showed several standout pieces in their collection, there were just as many to simple and to safe pieces. I would have like to have seen more daring looks and less of the hotbod male models showing off their abs! Overall Gypsy & Loic has some new pieces that any man would like to add to their wardrobe.

View the complete collection at wireimage.com

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While the whole event at San Francisco Fashion Week was intended for the Spring/Summer 2007 season. Designer Lauren Craig took a lot of inspiration in the trends we saw during the Fall/Winter collection earlier this year. Craig showed a series of free form and expressive looks for her collection. While Craig was high decorated at the senior collection at the Academy of Art, she focused on her ability to drape in all three of her looks. From a pant look to two floor length skirts and gowns, Craig draped each piece with a detailed eye for movement. The models were able to move effortlessly down the runway.

While Craig’s draped skirt and gown were certainly a great focal point to the collection but the must have piece is Craig’s buttoned knit cardigan that she showed with the skirt. Connected to the cardigan is a drape of what looked like silk charmeuse over the shoulder and arm and connected in the back. While the over look of the collection was very oversized and body positive. I can’t but see Marc Jacobs Fall/Winter collection as an obvious inspiration for the collection. Which in the end is not a bad thing, Craig has a talent for seriously thinking and staying out of the box. Her vision and design philosophy is the root of collection and she has such great potential to grow and explore. Bravo Mademoiselle Craig!

View the complete collection at wireimage.com

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“A” for construction, “A” for execution, what Candis Lee Cleveland was lacking in this collection was personality. Cleveland accomplished her inspiration with all three looks. It was all there, clean, simple, sophisticated and sexy. The 30’s style tailoring of the cocktail dresses really resonates Candis’s vision of creating dresses that really shows someone what it feels like to wear silk charmeuse. The standout piece was Cleveland’s red silk charmeuse cocktail dress that is hemmed right above the knee. What made this look a stunner was the plunging back and the neckline the dress is all “black”.

While red is certainly an easy pick right off a runway for the best look, the must have look from Cleveland’s collection was her black and white silk charmeuse cocktail dress. This dress alone was stunning, but when model Pierce Ross (JD Agency) came down wearing the dress she set whole event in an uproar. She was working the dress but the dress really did not need it in the end, Pierce proved that dress could really make a woman. Whole dress is done in a ivory white silk charmeuse with a small section of the torso, below the breast line, done in black silk charmeuse. Candis Lee Cleveland shot right for the stars in front of her. She may have not aimed high with this collection of looks but she mastered a near perfect look. Bravo Mademoiselle Cleveland!

View the complete collection at wireimage.com

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Designer Hannah Gallagher titles her collection “New Hope”. My first reaction was this is going to be a reference to “Star Wars”. Instead Gallagher her inspiration was really older women’s styling practice of were over size pieces and using an accessory to trick they eye the garment is smaller. The end result is 3 very feminine looks with great shape but the wrong fabrics. Gallagher showed a Givenchy style bubble shape skirt and dress. The colors were great, the large belts worked even the leggings worn under the dresses seemed to be working. What was not working was the material choice for the skirt and dress. The fabric was to stiff and as the model walked the pieces didn’t move.

Fabric choices aside Gallagher did have one must piece in her collection. A collarless cocktail jacket with flared sleeves in soft canary yellow. The jacket was lined with a brown/white polka dot silk fabric. The jacket look was finished with white linen painters blouse tied off with large belt and worn with a skinny Capri pant in khaki brown. The key to Gallagher’s collection was her color choice but the fabric choices really did hurt the over look of the collection.

View the complete collection at wireimage.com

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To the avid fashionista, twin brothers David & Daniel Concepcion work was very simple and lacked any originality. Take another look, there is a lot more to their collection than the young clean-cut look they conveyed with the overall look of their collection. It’s in the little details here and there. The duo jumped at the hooded trend, very common for men and women, the strongest statement was their nod to the full leg pant. They showed two long pant looks and one short look. Their inspiration is their design philosophy, clean aesthetics with emphasis on keeping the looks functional, casual and most importantly modern. While their full leg pants were a key look to the collection another strong look is their sleeveless knit sweaters, which they showed with two different necklines (v-neck & a plunging neckline.)

The must have piece from the collection is one of my favorite pieces. The white twill knee-length short with the bottom of the short cuffed. What makes this look standout if the Concepcion twins moved the typical cargo pant from the side of the short to replace the front pocket of the short. A unique design feature and one I would love to see copied at collections next week in New York. David & Daniel Concepcion are certainly young and fresh to the design world and this collection is proof they really can produce quality that can sell. What I am interested in seeing is how they start to mold this clean design aesthetic with their influences from comic books, cartoons and classic art. Bravo Monsieur y Monsieur Concepcion!

View the complete collection at wireimage.com

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Light, airy and delicate, some of the key inspirations with Rocio Penuelas collection. Rocio’s presentation was a series of all white looks that were very feminine and clean. She played with textured and delicate fabric and embellished each look with simple beading. Her construction was simple and clean; she focused on a straight line on the body and let the fabrics take shape. The stand out look in her collection was a white stretch jersey halter dress with hem above the knee. Rocio draped a sheer white gauze fabric from the torso and finished with mother of pearl large sequins around the torso. The gauze is opened in the front of the dress and it just floats as the model walked. The jersey and gauze dress is proof that Penuelas has an eye for finishing a look just before it become overworked which I think the other two dresses were to textbook and overworked.

View the complete collection at wireimage.com

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Construction, its her vision, its her inspiration for this collection. Young K. Park has a talent for construction and its evident in all of her three looks. She also played with some of the trends we have seen the last two seasons, from flared structured skirts to ruffles. One of the standout pieces she showed was a tiered ruffle skirt with a combination of textured fabrics. The skirt is worn with a overlapping front vest with an embroidered fan design at the close of the vest.

The must have look was the pink cotton skirt worn with a charcoal gray jackets. The skirt is flared below the knee and the hem is finished with the charcoal fabric used for the jacket. The jacket is another unique piece; Park used a silver thread for seaming of the jacket. The silver thread shows off Park’s attention to construction and her ability to give a simple jacket some really modern lines. All three looks really were in cinch although Park didn’t really jump out of the business to day look she was creating. Overall her pieces were very wearable and sellable. Bravo Mademoiselle Park!

View the complete collection at wireimage.com

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Jewelry and Accessory designer CC Skye will debut her Spring 2007 Collection at Olympus Fashion Week in New York City. In her new collection CC Skye is introducing new handbags (seen below in her press release) and new jewelry designs. If you’re at the tents, check out her exhibit that will run from opening day September 8th till the 15th. If you would like to shop or take a look at her current collection visit her site at Shop CC SKYE.

CC SKYE - PRESS RELEASE:
This Friday September 8, 2006, CC SKYE will debut their Spring 07 Collection at the fashion event of the season - Olympus Fashion Week at the Tents at Bryant Park in New York, produced by IMG, the global leader in the management and production of fashion weeks and designer fashion events. Highlighting her Spring 07 Jewelry styles, she in turn presents their brand new handbag line-- a highly anticipated new venture by many.

CC SKYE’s Spring 2007 line promises to entice this season of refinement and elegance. Lest you be concerned that "refinement" equals "minimalism:" Fear not! The season's accessories rise to the occasion, finishing these graceful looks with feminine polish (and sometimes a kick of subversive chic as well). CC SKYE and her team have been working closely with world renowned Stylist, Lisa Bradkin, Accessories Director for Olympus Fashion Week who is a great supporter of CC SKYE and knows that the line's unique bold composition will make an important contribution to this season's exhibit. Fashion Runway shows along side the exhibit includes Diane Von Furstenberg, Calvin Klein, Chaiken, Caroline Herrera, Zac Posen and Project Runway. The exhibit will run through September 15th, 2006.. CC SKYE will then debut the line to retailers at Designers & Agents September 17th - 19th, 2006 in New York. For appointments, please call (310) 924-5683.

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Designer Antonia Marguerite was the first designer to show menswear looks at San Francisco Fashion Week. Luckily Marguerite’s vision for S/S 07’ is fits with emerging trend of the Menswear collections in Milan, Paris and Rio, the darker the palette the better. Her inspiration for her first menswear collection was a play on hot rock stars and their sexual allure over women. The only downside to her vision was she focus on rock stars of the 80’s compared to sexiness of rock stars of the 70’s or 90’s. The end result was a parade of several black leather looks. One of the strongest looks he showed was a sleeveless black leather jacket. The shoulders of the jacket were caped and the wide lapels done in leather are attached to inside of the jacket. So the front of the jacket lays open like lapels with the black leather lapels lying on top. The jacket is cropped of above the waist and She lined with a black/white/red.

Marguerite took the new dark palette in mind with her collection; sadly she fell for the skinny pant trend, which is slowly starting to disappear from the runways. The must have piece from her collection was the sleeveless black leather and black cotton hooded jacket. Antonia detailed the jacket with a red zipper, wide lapels and the hood is lined with the black/red/white print she used on all her looks. While Antonia was trying to achieve a complete rocker look with this collection, her outerwear pieces were the highlight. She certainly has the ability to do menswear although I think she needs to really stand back and make sure the look she is creating is not too out there, men scare easily. Overall Antonia showed three really strong and focused looks. Bravo Mademoiselle Marguerite!

View the complete collection at wireimage.com

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The golden child of San Francisco Fashion Week, Emily Yao received the Best Emerging Designer Award for her Goth/Vintage/Tailored collection. At first glance the inspiration of S&M & Dominatrix, look a little closer and you can see her attention to detail which is predominately found in couture techniques. While Yao explains her vivid vision being influenced by her Goth club days, I can see she has really stepped out of that vision and explored another side of design, Sex! With her material choices alone, Emily Yao really mastered a sexy and function look. Take the black vinyl pencil skirt with a corseted top of olive green silk gazar used for the breast line and a darker green material covered with dyed ostrich feathers.

The standout look in her collection was the charcoal gray miniskirt worn with olive green silk satin and black vinyl corset. What really made this look standout were the garter belts that were sewn on the outside of the skirt and clasped onto black silk stockings. It’s evident that Yao likes to think out of the box. Not even John Galliano thought of such an ingenious look when he did the pencil skirt 4 years ago! The look is finished with a matching charcoal gray sleeves mini jacket and black satin gloves. I would certainly have to agree that Yao deserved the award, not only for presenting 3 looks that really looked they were from the same collection. But for ability to create unique looks that really exhibit her design philosophy. The challenge in front of her is to mold her design aesthetic into a complete ready to wear collection. Judging from these looks she has the ability bend the rules. Bravo Mademoiselle Yao!

View the complete collection at wireimage.com

[images viaWireimage.com]

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One of the safest looks to show at a menswear collection is silkscreen print on pretty much anything. Guys love it, designers love it, but do editors love it? For her Spring/Summer collection Kumar opted to add a silkscreen image to everything from blazer and even sweat jackets. One of the standout pieces in the opening section was a white cotton voile cropped sleeve jacket with a mow collar. The white cotton voile is printed with a peace sign print; the look was finished with a long sleeve orange shirt with a silkscreen image of Jim Morrison on the front. Through out the collection Kumar made sure that her pants were relaxed with a full leg. Kumar did not stop there with her pants; she used different textured fabrics for the pants as well.

The must have piece from the collection is gray cotton voile pant with ribbed knit elastic used for the waist. A trend that is starting to pickup from Fashion Week to Fashion Week! The pant is silk screened with a modern print and worn with a brown dress shirt with 60’s geometric design embroidered on the front of the shirt and on the matching necktie. The key to Kumar’s mens looks is in the details. She made sure the look for Spring/Summer was a more relaxed look, abandoning the skinny pant and tapered shirts. Bravo Madame Kumar!

View complete collection at Wireimage

[images viaWireimage.com]

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One of the first designers to walk the runway in the “Emerging Designer” showcase was Elizabeth Ann Buenrostro. The inspiration for her collection was vixens of the cult classic horror films of the 50’s. This inspiration is comes out loud and clear. From Janet Leigh’s capes to Tippy Hedren’s sleek pencil skirts. Buenrostro played with these design and added several modern twists.

One of the strongest looks in her collection was the bright olive cropped cape with orange lining and hood. While many designers showed several hooded looks, this was one of first looks that really made sense; the hooded cape complimented the complete look. The cape was worn with high waisted stretch jersey pencil skirt with a flared trim of chiffon hemming the skirt. Buenrostro also showed another cape look in which she embellished the cape with a oval shape similar to shoulder pads on the shoulder of the cape. What was really striking about Elizabeth looks, were her use of color, the attention historical references and being able to develop a new look based off of them. Bravo Mademoiselle Buenrostro!

View the complete collection at wireimage.com

[images viaWireimage.com]

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