In the program notes; Ferré notes that his pallet for Spring/Summer is neutrals and natural colors from sand to plate metallic. My gut reaction, what about blues, greens and red? The opening section was all dark blues and dark grays. The opening section was by the book, models appeared one by one in several suit and knitwear looks. Completely covered! Very little skin! The downside to so much formal looks was Ferré's tried to add a little fun with the looks. One of the big miss looks was the opening look of a techno blue color slicker, why can’t this color just disappear. Another playful idea that Ferre’ used in excess is the denim jean which he tailored very similar to a carpenter fit jean.
Ferré; showed several suit looks, but the models were paraded down the runway with the blazer folded up in their hands. Of coarse showing off the embroidered “F” on the inside lining. This really didn’t give us a complete look at Ferré's suits. The second section was in an introduction of more outerwear and leather pieces. Some the standout pieces in this section were the white suede and python cropped driving jackets. One of the key leather looks was the light brick color alligator leather driving jacket. Sadly Ferré paired the jacket with a pair of his baggy cotton twill carpenter pants.
In the third section Ferré shifted to a black and white pallet. Several strong looks really stood out in this section. But Ferré had a little fun with his liking in this section. As much as I though the black white print of Ferré profile was cute and very lifelike (meaning no thinning of Ferré's image was done). The shirts and shorts were too simple and didn’t have any edge that fit into the Ferré look. I was pleased to see that the dress slacks worn with the printed shirts were getting more relaxed.
In the closing section Ferré started adding splashes of color finally. And Bold Color! Although I was not really into the patent leather jackets he showed in red, blue, orange and black. The standout pieces in this colorful section were the silk/wool blend dress slacks at the close of the collection. The waistline is slightly lower but pant leg has a straight leg cut with a flat front. Ferré showed this pant in a bottle green and light green color plus his gray and steel blues. I did not like the mandarin collar shirts worn with the pants.
natural colors from sand to plate metallic. My gut reaction, what about blues, greens and red? The opening section was all dark blues and dark grays. The opening section was by the book, models appeared one by one in several suit and knitwear looks. Completely covered! Very little skin! The downside to so much formal looks was Ferre’s tried to add a little fun with the looks. One of the big miss looks was the opening look of a techno blue color slicker, why can’t this color just disappear. Another playful idea that Ferre’ used in excess is the denim jean which he tailored very similar to a carpenter fit jean.
Ferre; showed several suit looks, but the models were paraded down the runway with the blazer folded up in their hands. Of coarse showing off the embroidered “F” on the inside lining. This really didn’t give us a complete look at Ferre’s suits. The second section was in an introduction of more outerwear and leather pieces. Some the standout pieces in this section were the white suede and python cropped driving jackets. One of the key leather looks was the light brick color alligator leather driving jacket. Sadly Ferre’ paired the jacket with a pair of his baggy cotton twill carpenter pants.
In the third section Ferre’ shifted to a black and white pallet. Several strong looks really stood out in this section. But Ferre’ had a little fun with his liking in this section. As much as I though the black white print of Ferre’s profile was cute and very lifelike (meaning no thinning of Ferre’s image was done). The shirts and shorts were too simple and didn’t have any edge that fit into the Ferre’ look. I was pleased to see that the dress slacks worn with the printed shirts were getting more relaxed.
In the closing section Ferre’ started adding splashes of color finally. And Bold Color! Although I was not really into the patent leather jackets he showed in red, blue, orange and black. The standout pieces in this colorful section were the silk/wool blend dress slacks at the close of the collection. The waistline is slightly lower but pant leg has a straight leg cut with a flat front. Ferre’ showed this pant in a bottle green and light green color plus his gray and steel blues. I did not like the mandarin collar shirts worn with the pants.
The must have looks from the collection are two knitwear looks. First was the white knit collar-less cardigan with a matching belt. The cardigan is buttoned in a wide double-breasted look. The cardigan is worn with a flared leg denim pant. The other must have look is the white knit jacket that is double breasted and lapel are large and drape over the breast plate and shoulders of the jacket. Worn with a straight leg denim pant. I found Ferré excessive use of denim to be nauseating and while his ability to fall in the lines of his classic Ferré style with modern lines and luxury. This collection went a little to far out there in terms of grabbing new clientèle from younger generations.
View the complete collection at gianfrancoferre.com
[images via gianfrancoferre.com ]
One of the best looking in the opening section was the yellow collarless overcoat cropped at the waist. The opening of the jacket overlaps adding to the modern tailoring that Grieves used in the tailoring of the shoulders and torso of the coat. Another strong outwear look was the off-white collarless trench coat that Grieves constructed to be cascading down the body. The trench fabric just floated upward with each step the model took.
The must have pieces from the collection are two knitwear pieces. First was the tan mohair and cashmere knit sweater with a crewneck. The sweater weave design is a combination of a ribbed weave and a cable knit weave. Grieves also showed alternate version of the same sweater, this version was cardigan with v-neckline. The weak part of the look was the tapered leg pant paired with both sweaters. This collection is certainly one of Grieve’s colorful and subtle collections. The overall look is very clean and his use of color really brings some life to the collection. Bravo Monsieur Grieves!
