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MILAN Women’s F/W 06 – PUCCI

One of the big trends this season is the inspirations drawn from the 60’s. One particular inspiration used over and over is actress Ali McGraw whose personal style defined in the movie “A Love Story”. For his Fall/Winter collection for Pucci, designer Matthew Williamson jumped on the McGraw bandwagon. Both on the show notes and backstage the designer repeated over and over his obsession for styling of McGraw and his crafting of the look from the clothes to the hair and makeup.

In the opening section of the collection Williamson jumped out of the classic Pucci print dresses and into flared bell-bottoms. The standout pant look was the purple bell-bottom pants worn with a matching cashmere turtleneck sweater. Williamson also showed the look in alternative colors, Magenta was the most decadent worn with a matching poncho. Williamson expended his use of trends that we’ve season on the runway season, from the knitwear to the outerwear. A low note in the opening section was the repeat looks from last season, all of the military style overcoats.

In the second section Williamson focused on more outerwear. Two standout looks in this section was first the soft brown overcoat that is pleated at the waist to create a bell shape to the coat. Williamson gave the overcoat a sophisticated twist by adding fur to the collar and cuffs of the coat. The second standout overcoat was the knit cashmere poncho with a stripe design he used on several pieces in the collection. Williamson took the poncho and offered it several looks in a handful of solid colors.

One of the most delicate pieces of the collection was the brown mohair knit dress worn with a satin ribbon around the waist. What is so interesting about this piece is that it really is not a Pucci look or piece. The chance you could actually find something so unique in such collection built off of a strong vision of its history is priceless. Another strong piece is the 60’s Pucci print that is very reminiscent of the Baroque influence

The must have looks of the collection are two cocktail dresses. The first is must have dress was a silk jersey dress. Printed on the dress is a classic Pucci print interpreted in to a new geometric design. The other must have look is a long sleeve black/fuscia/purple printed silk dress with a plunging v-neck. The skirt of the dress is flared with the silk cut into panels with darted panels of black lace from the hem of the skirt. Overall this collection was okay, its very simple and certainly a safe play with classic Pucci styles for Williamson. There certainly were a lot of 60’s looks in the collection, but you can say that about every Pucci collection over the past 30 years. The key pieces of the collection that really stood out were the ponchos and bell-bottoms. I was impressed with Williamson sense of venture out of the normal and expected looks for the Pucci collection. But his exploration did lack a little focus overall.

view collection here

[images via style.com]

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