The partnership of high-end designers like Yamamoto and footwear labels like Adidas, have proven to be provocative and a cash cow. This season Yamamoto has produced on his vibrant footwear collections today. From Aqua to Red and Yellow active footwear. For his ready to wear collection for Fall/Winter, Yoji and his design team jump to the other end of the color spectrum. The collection by large is in a dark pallet of black, midnight blue and dark grays.

In the opening section of the collection Yamamoto showed several black evening jackets and overcoats. The tailoring is classic Yamamoto, loose around the bodice with modern details. I loved the black wool blazer with a panel of light gray wool stripping vertically. Military stars and medals is Yamamoto’s accessory for the second section. The look is very militant but up close to fake or superficial for the Yamamoto brand. In this section the designer showed a black trench coat with collar certainly one of my favorite pieces.

For Fall the designer showed very little knitwear, only a handful of pieces made it down the runway. Those select few did make a positive statement for the collection. Like the gray sweaters with tassels trimming the collar. The must have knitwear piece is the floor length knit coat. For Fall Yamamoto and his design team focused on a new shape for men’s pants. Showing a number of wool and cotton dress slacks with a straight or baggy leg. To close out the show the designer took the tuxedo jackets and tailored the length below the waist and focused on leather and cutting embellishments. I loved the black wool overcoat with the basket weave cutouts on the breast and the lapel with horizontal sliver cuts.

The two have pieces of the collection are any of the black wool tuxedo jacket with leather cut into a chain-link, trimming the front of the jacket. The second piece is the dark navy blue suit with a red stitching similar to baseball stitching, on the front and back of the coat. For Fall/Winter Asian designers like Yamamoto as well as Kawakubo & Watanabe have broken down their modernism philosophy and explored the world of fashion a little more this season.

Although some editors have argued that such change is giving into make their lines more commercial, there is more to these collection outside of the obvious changes. Designers like Yamamoto like to challenge themselves by breaking not only social barriers, but also their own craft barriers. Bravo Monsieur Yamamoto!

view collection here

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