So first I have to begin my review of the Dior Homme collection with a little first impression in the opening section. Someone on Hedi Slimane’s production has a obvious ear fetish. Practically every male model had big ears; we are talking about “Dumbo” ears. For Fall/Winter Dior kept with his philosophy that black looks great on everyone.

In the opening section Slimane showed a new Dior evening trench coat. A dark charcoal gray wool that has been tailored into section. The front lapel of the coat have been cut into straps the bottom onto the opposing side, leaving a wide opening in the front of the coat. The innovation that reminds me of the late Stephen Sprouse. Slimane’s suits for Fall/Winter have taken on a familiar and new shape. The designer kept with the tapered pant leg and focused his energy the tailoring the shoulders and the back close to the model. At first glance the suit shape looks like an arch, with the pant tapered at the ankle and the jacket tight in the shoulders.

Inspirations have certainly been familiar from collection to collection, from Milan to Paris. This season Slimane continues to focus on his own inspirations and individuality. Obvious inspirations are Austria, French nautical and the opera. I love the collarless Austrian inspired jacket in gray wool with black wool trim. Slimane only dabbled with the nautical them by showing a few collarbone neck long sleeve shirts. And the Slimane black wool sailor pant, with a baggy leg and gray wool striping running around the front of the pant. Creating a picture frame image on the pant.

The highlight of the opening section was Slimane’s black wool pants with a denim waistline. If this sounds familiar, we saw it at Dolce & Gabbana two weeks ago. For the second section Slimane and his design team focused on new black suits and outerwear. Hedi showed his only trendy item of the season, a dark black collegiate coat shown as a evening coat. A great idea! Slimane start shift away from the tapered pant leg and give several chunky tweed and wool pants a full leg.

For close of his Fall collection, Slimane saved the best for last. First he showed remastered version of his beaded Bolero jacket, which he showed last season and is used in his Spring ad campaign. This season he focused on the beading details of the jacket, forming it into a couture piece. Although the Slimane’s black tuxedos don’t change to much from season to season, he makes sure he gets your attention to the details he adds to the look. This season Hedi showed the tuxedos with various versions of black satin and taffeta dress shirts, Toping off these decadent shirts were 2inch black satin ribbon double tied bow ties.

There are two must have pieces of the collection. First is either of Slimane’s dark gray trench coats, the open front trench or the classic Dior trench with the tapered shoulders. Finally there is black taffeta floor length opera coat. The coat is a classic and certainly draws inspiration from Belalogis’s “Dracula”. Hedi Slimane’s focus this season is certainly pinned pointed in the right direction. He crafted yet again, a near flawless collection. Continuing to move the Dior client into new directions and looks. Bravo Monsieur Slimane.

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