Anna Sui is still the master of American Noir. For Fall she avoids the dark pallet trend of the season like the black plague. To open her collection she molded the masculine lines of the season with delicate color, in the first standout piece. A black chiffon blouse with a pastel plaid print and white satin cuffs and Peter Pan collar. In the opening section Sui seemed to play with several rich looks with several rich printed fabrics. The abundance of prints was a little bit of a sensory overload.

In the second section Sui shifted her focus on outerwear. And this focus was mainly on decadent layering and details. Like the black brocade jacket with eyelet trim and fur cuffs and collars. Worn with a matching strapless dress of black brocade. Another great piece is the navy blue taffeta dress with the shortened hemline, great for evening but very sexy. Taffeta is slowly becoming a ready to wear fabric, in the past it has always been used as couture fabric due to its cost.

Color is certainly not absent in a Sui collection, even when she’s in a black mood she still gives her clients something to smile about. The “it” color at Sui was her orange looks. Starting with the orange tweed skirt with a frayed hem worn with a orange dyed shearling covered coat and trimmed with orange dyed fur along the lapel and cuff. Another decadent piece was the orange and brown herringbone weave overcoat lined with a dark chocolate brown satin.

Last season Sui abandoned her signature baby doll dress looks as big trend for Spring was the baby doll dress. This season she has returned signature piece back to the runway. She showed several dresses in her wild prints, but the key baby doll pieces were in the evening section. Sui showed several baby doll cocktail dresses for evening. Including a sexy black satin dress with a short hemline and a white satin peter pan collar and cuffs. Another great piece was the black tulle baby doll dress that was embellished with black chiffon flowers all over the dress.

The must have pieces of the collection include one of the Russian doll dresses. An orange/brown print on white taffeta dress trimmed with dark brown fur on the hem and elbow length sleeve cuff. The other must have look is the white organdy jacket with beading all over creating a plaid design that takes inspiration of a classic Chanel tweed jacket. The detail of the beading and the contrasting fabrics is amazing. I love how the sleeve cuff is trimmed with a layer of black tulle.

Although Anna absorbent use of prints this season was a little bit of a overload. It was balanced out by the Sui’s focus on the finishing details of each piece and look. The highlights of this collection run through the collection. The only weak points of this collection are the choice of accessories and footwear. Overall Madam Sui has crafted a large and strong collection for Fall. Bravo Madame Sui!

view collection here

[images via style.com]