Paris – S/S 2006 LOUIS VUITTON
Marc Jacobs decided to keep with this season color pallet in the opening of his Spring/Summer collection for the House of Vuitton. Mixing blacks, whites and browns. The Makeup and hair for the collection is clean and pulled back with just one embellishments, smokey eyes and hair barrettes. Although Jacobs and design team offered this season trends in the opening section, what came in the second section and the remainder of the collection was divinity for any label horror.
Marc and design team offered a number of pieces in this collection that are memorable reminders of Jacobs’s allegiance to the label. Summer dresses were clean cut with a plunging back; skin is radiant as the look for Vuitton in Spring/Summer. Jacobs also brought color to Paris, with deep purples, chartreuse, rust, orange and this seasons techno blue trend. Color is important as well as form for the designer. From the Mondrian jackets and dresses to the skirts and dresses in a rusty silk. Marc also showed a number of pieces in brightly colored patent leather dressed and skirts, the looks were too PVC and restrictive.
Marc Jacobs seems to attract those who find value in the name more than the quality. I know it may sound mean to judge the hip-hop community so bluntly, but if you were to ask them what fabric their Vuitton or Chanel dress is made of the stock answer would be “SILK”. Now, I will admit that they do have value and importance in the world of fashion.
Over the past 25 years, thanks to designers such as Jacobs, Versace and St, Laurent. The world of fashion has used the world of music as a marketing tool. Who do we have thank for this connection? Some in the business will be quick to lay credit to Vivienne Westwood and her sidekick Malcolm MacLaren. Who back in the 70’s molded the world of punk and created a fashion movement with her namesake label.
But this evolution can be traced back to the 30s and 40s. When designers and the world of film came together seamlessly. From this came the creation of muses such as Audrey Hepburn for Givenchy or Katherine Hepburn for Coco Chanel. This partnership continued to develop all the way to 60s with Catherine Deneuve and Yves St. Laurent.
Now back to Monsieur Jacobs and his collection Vuitton. My tangent had a target, the exploitation of a label in creating wealth in the brand recognition. Accessories are the best tools for this exploitation. Watching this collection you can easily be distracted by the amount of metallic accessories on the runway. From the belts, waist chains and even the bags. Two must have pieces are the standard LV bag with suede leather fringe which looks like a rainbow of colors covering the entire bag. The other is a bracelet with glass beading mixed with glass coral pieces. Of coarse there are matching earrings.
All though this collection has an abundance of standout accessories, the designer made sure there were enough embellished pieces. A parade of summer dresses in red, chartreuse and green had glass beading on the back, hip or even the neckline. He also showed a white dress and blouse covered in white glass and mirror tiles. Most certainly the inspiration was Monsieur Ribbane.
In the opening section Jacobs kept to the signature Jacobs/LV look his been building in the last 3 years. In this collection Marc added a sense of couture with rich fabrics and an abundance of little details. Like beading and embroidery, which is a shift of change for the label. I could easily see the inspiration of the 80’s in this collection and from such great designers as Ribbane as well as Ungaro and Lacroix.
Overall LV design team and Monsieur Jacobs have put together a memorable collection. Bravo.
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