For Spring, couture clients have a plevee of color to choose from thanks to designs like Lacroix, Galliano and Valentino. This Spring, couture designer Anne Valérie Hash slips into her modern vision of couture. Hash opened the collection with a number of masculine pieces and looks. From the jackets and pants to the stretch leggings. Hash offered to her new clients a Windsor check and tweed jacket, which looks like it was take right out of Milan Fashion week two weeks ago.

Hashs' vision this season was to emphasize the tailoring of her collection and to create a relaxed look. She played with the masculine businessman look by putting a turtleneck sweater over a stripe men’s silk dress shirt. She also showed a silk bomber jackets with classic pencil skirts and stretch leggings. Overall the looks as well as the pieces looked unfinished.

Hashs' use of prints in the second section was a little overboard. Pairing floral prints, shadow prints, paisley and tie-dye together. I did however like the pale blue silk floral print gown, although Hash destroyed the look by pairing a line green halter-top under the dress. But my the winning piece in the collection as a whole is the dot print bubble dress, although we have seen the same dress several times during couture week.

Anne Valérie Hash is really lost in this collection; she built a collection of ready to wear looks done in couture fabrics. What is really interesting is the amounts of couture fabrics are far less than the use of simple ready to wear fabrics. I was scratching my head trying to understand what Madame Hash is trying to say other than disrespecting the nature of couture. Designers over a Banana Republic are thinking right about now “If this is couture, Hell we do that!”.

view collection here

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WWD reports that Gucci Menswear designer John Ray has handed in his resignation as design director. Claiming his decision is based on personal reasons. Gucci Group will announce today that Womenswear designer Frida Giannini will take over as the menswear director post. This is a familiar situation for the Gucci Group. Giannini replaced Alessandra Facchinetti in 2004 after several poorly reviewed collections.

Giannini’s first womenswear collection for Gucci was met with mixed reviews. Although in the last two season’s she has really out shined her predecessors. As for designer John Ray, his first collection for Gucci premiered Spring 2005. The designer received rave reviews for his first collection. His second collection would not be so positive, the designer opted to play safe and mimic the Ford/Gucci style created 4 years earlier. The last two seasons Ray’s collection seemed to have a lost vision and a lack of classic Gucci style. Hopefully Ray will go on to create his own namesake collection.

Gucci Menswear F/W 06

Gucci Womenswear S/S 06

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My blog got the most visits today (70+) since I started it last summer. Very Happy...I hope to have the website up and running before Paris Fashion Week!

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Last Night, Brokeback Mountain was robbed at the Screen Actors Guild Awards. First Michelle Williams is snubbed, then Heath Ledger and finally for best ensemble cast they get left in dirt for “Crash”. I’ve seen all the winning films, including “Crash”. I am sorry “Crash” was a good movie, it’s a “Traffic” sequel in my book. And personally the “Traffic” cast was 10 times better than the cast of “Crash”. Then there is a little movie called the “Constant Gardner”. Now I love Rachel Weisz, but her performance is no different than her performance in “The Mummy” or “Constantine”. Williams performance in Brokeback is more powerful and certainly out of her safe acting shell.

The Academy of Arts & Entertainment will announce the nominations for the Oscars tomorrow morning – bright and early. Certainly both Ledger and Williams will be nominated, but will Jake Gyllenhal get a nod for best supporting actor. My fingers are crossed! I must say that Michelle Williams looked amazing at the SAG awards, even better than the Globes. Anne did improve her look, just a little.

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Mallory Kean (Muse to Designer Badgley Mischka and a former Fashion Model) was killed in a car accident early last Friday. Full Article on the accident. Mallory is well known in the New York social scene, usually escorted by her husband Roy Kean. Over at New York Social Diary David Patrick has created Memoriam for Mallory. She will sorely be missed!

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John Galliano is fallowing in the business footsteps of McQueen and McCartney who recently started their second ready to wear collection. Galliano has signed a license deal with IT Holding SpA to create a second women’s ready to wear line. IT Holding also has licensing deals with Just Cavalli and Versace Jeans. Last year they lost their most successful contract with Dolce & Gabbana for their D&G line. No further details of how large the collection will be or when it will be released. Fingers crossed that the deal will include both women’s and menswear.

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Season after season Jean Paul Gaultier has drawn inspiration from all corners of the world. His talent truly lies in shaping a collection from these inspirations. At his Spring Couture collection Gaultier drew inspiration from a India to Madame Gres’s Grecian column dresses from the 30’s. In the opening of the collection Gaultier just jumped right into the spring season showing an off white chiffon skirt with layers of chiffon hemmed with ribbon. A look we saw at both Rochas and Balenciaga back October. Worn with a chiffon blouse with a dress shirt collar and ballooned sleeve. I think the look would have been perfect with out the navy blue blazer.

Gaultier’s color pallet was all over the place, from brown, pale and tech-no blue and white. From the opening section Gaultier started to loose focus showing a number of dresses or lack of dresses that drew inspiration from India. Rumors were a buzz after the show that the Indian pieces were going to be inspiration for Madonna’s costumes for her next world tour. If that’s the case, Gaultier got a real luke warm reception for the looks.

Gaultier built of the Indian inspiration and showed a number of dress and gowns in the rich red and green tones. The dresses and gowns looked Baroque with layers of tulle trimmed with beading and metallic laces. My first impression of these dresses was “Oh how very Versace!” Early Versace couture is certainly an inspiration for this collection!

From all the feminine gowns and dresses there were certainly good number of masculine pantsuits and evening suits. Of coarse in classic Gaultier shapes and in a dark pallet of blacks and browns. He mixed the pantsuits with more dresses, some very delicate and beautiful and some that were a little overboard. The chiffon bubble gown with a beaded bodice and pleated collar that was taller than the models hair.

Gaultier closed the collection with a number of gowns that didn’t fit together, from the white chiffon dress worn with white pants and chiffon shirt over the bodice. Just to much, Gaultier then closed the show with a modern Pierre Cardin gown fallowed a Madame Gres inspired column gown in burnt yellow.

The must have piece for the Gaultier client is the mauve chiffon halter-top gown with gold lace on the hem. A classic piece that is sexy and romantic. Another great look was the white crepe suit with a rust colored chiffon blouse with a long wavy collar. The blouse brings the suit alive.

view collection here

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Lacroix spent too much time in the French countryside this season. In the opening section of his Spring Couture collection this week, Lacroix attempted to mix the French country patterns with a rich Spanish color palette. A perfect example was opening look of an orange and fuscia floral print dress. While the form of the dress was very modern and feminine, the fabric made it look overworked. Lacroix also showed French country floral prints on antique white satin. These pieces stood out and didn’t fit the look Lacroix was trying to build into this collection.

In the second section Lacroix started to show more classic Lacroix dresses and gowns. He used vibrant colors of reds, yellows and purples in floral prints and laces. This shocking pallet gave some energy to the collection. Lacroix mixed these prints with layers of black satin and covered with black lace. One gown particularly stood out in this section, the orange silk taffeta gown with black beading at the hem of skirt and around the bodice.

Orange is the it color for Lacroix spring collection. He combined the color into so many pieces. From the orange taffeta dresses to being covered in black lace. The combination of orange/white/black is such a classic Lacroix pallet. Lacroix presented a number of gowns that mixed bold colors like orange, purple and yellow and then mixing in his brightly colored floral print on while silk satin. Lacroix drew inspiration from Russian Czarina’s and Easter Parades. He also presented a number of young and pale looks. One of my favorites like the navy blue wool dress and jacket with silver lace trim on hem of the skirt and the back and bottom of the jacket.

The must have piece in this collection are the Easter basket weave dresses. The stand out dress was the dress worn by Lily Cole with floral embroidery on chiffon and the hot pink flowers adorning the bodice. The champagne color chiffon fabric was weaved with crystals applied at each joint to create a Easter basket look. A very feminine and angelic look for such a strong colored collection. There are certainly a number of red carpet options in this collection. Lacroix really nailed this collection as a whole; the abundance of color energized the editors. Bravo Monsieur Lacroix!

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Transcontinental Karl is making some real changes in his life and especially in his career. Late last year Lagerfeld showed his last collection in Paris for his namesake label. Karl and his design team moved across the Atlantic and next month they will host their first collection in New York City. In late November last year, Lagerfeld gave American media a taste or preview of his Fall/Winter collection at Chanel. This week Lagerfeld is back to the runways showing his couture collection for spring.

Karl Lagerfeld kept to the color pallet he presented last October for the Chanel ready to wear collection. A lot of black and white dresses and gowns with a little color in pale shades here and there. In first section of collection Lagerfeld showed a number of black and white dresses that were classic 60’s modern forms and classic Cardin silhouettes. The best accessories of this section are the two-tone leather gloves, which look like fingerless gloves or cuffs. I did not like the Go-Go boots in the first section.

The sign of a great couture collection is when you see 70-year-old couture clients rummaging in their purses for their digital cameras. Every other client had a camera in their hand – no need to jot down the look number or style……..it’s all about point, click and order! Karl played with each look, starting with a signature Chanel fabric and tailoring and then added his modern Karl twist. Like the classic Chanel tweed suits, Lagerfeld showed a number of skirt suits with a high colors of stiff chiffon and trimmed with lace.

The models look at Chanel is doll-like face with soft colored eyes and a nude lip. The hair on the models is pulled back and loosely pinned giving the models a clean but soft feminine look. The key to all the looks was the hair barrettes and accessories. The must have accessory from the couture collection are the Chanel cuffs shown with sequins, tulle and ribbon.

In the opening section Lagerfeld showed a number of standout tweed dresses and skirt suits. Adorned with sequins, tulle and ribbon cuffs. The stand out piece was a sleeveless pale pink dress with shredded fabric lining the shoulder trim. The only piece that was not a hit was the black and white dress with beaded black flowers and lace details.

In the second section Lagerfeld moved away from the modern cut Chanel dresses and jackets and focused on a very girly and romantic look. Showing a number of dresses and gowns with an abundance of ruffles, round shapes and more ruffles. The look has almost a Shirley Temple youthfulness and certainly is an inspiration. Which is rather ironic Lagerfeld went for this look when Shirley Temple Black will be receiving a lifetime achievement award at the Screen Actors Guild Awards this Sunday. It will be the first time she made a media appearance in almost 10 years.

Lagerfeld showed a number of chiffon dresses in white and pink with ruffles and piping covering the skirt and bodice. The standout look in this section is the pale peach chiffon dress with a bubble skirt and a matching tweed jacket. Karl tried to incorporate a couple modern pieces into this section, which was just to distracting. Like the white knit dress with a chain link design encircling the dress. Another dress that went to far in Shirley Temple section was the lace and sheer tulle dress with too too at the bottom of the skirt.

Lagerfeld continued to move away from the modern shapes that opened the collection to the doll-like and romantic Chanel looks. In the closing section Karl kept surprising the Chanel clients, their cameras were held up the entire close of the collection. First he showed a large number of lace dresses and kept to white pallet. The standout piece in the opening of the last section was the dress with a lace bodice and ostrich feathers cascading down from the waist of the dress.

Then Karl showed about ten wedding gowns, or evening gowns depending what color you order the dress. Antique white is such a strong color and Karl showed a strapless hourglass gown with cascading layers of shredded chiffon and tulle in antique white and off white. The gown looked like it pulled right out of the Chanel archives. I was not to impress with the fairy like wedding gowns with embroidered flowers.

The must have pieces of this collection is the sleek lace wedding gown with shredded chiffon layered down the bottom of the dress. Worn with a chiffon collar jacket and scalloped layers of chiffon for sleeves. The other must have piece is certainly the closing wedding gown worn by Lily Cole. A fairy like dress covered in lace and ostrich feathers. Worn with a sheer chiffon bias cut jacket trimmed in delicate lace. Overall Karl Lagerfeld showed a very feminine and doll-like collection. Bravo Monsieur Lagerfeld!

view collection here

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Monsieur Valentino falls into Spring 2006 with three evident inspirations in this collection. First Valentino struggles to keep his old and new clients happy. The collection offers classic Valentino pieces and shapes in young and fresh color pallets of pale mauves, peach and pinks. From the soft color pallet he then focused on romantic fabrics of lace chiffon for adding feminine looks to the collection. The third inspiration Valentino certainly looked at the collection as Easter Parade, ladies who need to impress and celebrate the season.

In the opening section, Valentino and his design team focused on presenting modern and classic Valentino jackets with very feminine details of draped lapels and lace and ruffles on the cuff and lapels. A look we are seeing more and more this season. Although Valentino is striving to create a young look in this collection, he does tend to design for our Grandmothers at any chance he can. From the skirt suits the designer moved onto dresses for day. The form is light and flared with an emphasis on the details of the beading and embroideries. Low cut necks and knee length skirts. The must have piece in this section is certainly the silk velvet flower print dress in pale green. Very romantic and very feminine!

Valentino showed a number of dresses and gowns with layers of chiffon ruffle and lace. But then he showed a section of silk flower print dresses and gowns with beading. I found the gowns to be overworked and too simple. He also showed a number of taffeta gowns that look like 80’s cotillion gowns gone badly. In the evening gown section Valentino really began to pick up more momentum with the quality of his looks. Certainly a stand out piece in the collection is all the silk satin halter-tops gowns in pale mauve and peach.

Also in the evening section, Valentino showed a masterpiece of a pale mauve silk chiffon dress with velvet embroideries of polka dots woven into the fabrics. These couture fabrics are very rare in Paris and extremely expensive to produce. For the life of m At the close of the show, Valentino showed half a dozen wedding gowns. The gowns themselves did not fit the look the designer had created for the collection nor did they look like any of the Classic Valentino gowns we’ve seen in the past. Valentino used an abundance of lace and ruffles in the gown, which gave them a romantic look, but then he added lace panels along the side of the gowns, which made them too modern.

The masterpiece gown of the collection is the pale green halter-top silk satin gown with a pale lavender silk satin thick band around the hem of the gown and a lavender silk lace hem on the drape of the dress. A very clean gown and a very modern and feminine gown for Valentino! The only downside of this collection was the makeup look for the collection. Valentino created a very light, youthful and colorful collection. Then the models looked like they were corpses and not in the trendy vampy way we saw at Dior or McQueen. Bottom line is you will certainly see a number of Valentino’s couture gowns and dresses on the Oscar red carpet in early March. Bravo Monsieur Valentino!

view collection here

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Anarchy, Revolution, Chaos, Rebellion, however you want to label the collection, John Galliano has taken the world today and thrown it in a couture blender and hit the chop button. The end result is a collection that is classic Galliano with romantic shapes and draping. Models appeared almost ghostly with a liking to actress Tilda Swinton and her character the Ice Queen in the recent movie Narnia.

Although the models may looked almost ice like or even Vampiric with ruby shaded eyes (another look we saw at McQueen.) The key look is not cold; rather it’s the burning sin of greed. Marked with revolution, by the tattooed 1789 on their bodies, the beginning of the French Revolution. A war, which will lead to devastation and death, the models tulle covered faces a symbol of hiding the pain. Imagery is very important to Galliano and although most critic will consider it un-wearable. The gowns and jackets are a vision of raw decadence.

Galliano opened the collection with a number of models draped in silk drakard and taffeta of white and blood red pallets. And black details and accessories on the hems and bodice. Slowly Galliano added a number of leather pieces, from knee high boots to satin and leather full-length gowns. These leather pieces melted into the blood red gowns and jackets. The two most breath taking leather pieces were the leather floor length gown that is cut on a bias in every direction imaginative with a a red taffeta bust and brown taffeta bodice. What makes these couture gowns unique is the beading of blood splatters or drippings hidden on the dress.

One striking piece was the beaded taffeta trench coat with tulle sleeves. This piece was so complicated I am not sure where to explain. The bodice and collar of the trench coat was crimson almost chocolate color taffeta, with beading of blood stains on one half and on the half was beaded with blood red tube beads covering the entire fabric. The sleeves were silk tulle in the same color – Galliano used the same taffeta on the cuff of the jacket. Most certainly this trench coat will be hot sell for the House of Dior.

Galliano continued the collection with his red pallet but shifted from the leather pieces and bias cut gowns to a romantic and Marie Antoinette look. The red tulle gown on Carmen Kass was romantic and a tribute to the Dior look. Then Galliano shifted back to leather, but showing modern piece. Like the diamond stitched red leather pants with corset lacing down the side of the pant leg. Very sexy and sophisticated! I really loved the red taffeta jacket shown with the pant, it toned down the edge of the pants with his romantic draping and black beading details.

The two masterpieces of this collection certainly show the possible routes or inspirations of the collection. I am breaking with everyone’s rendition of Galliano’s inspiration, I see the theme of anarchy and revolution but the inspiration is certainly upcoming Hollywood film “V for Vendetta” a film by the Wachowski brothers, who brought us the “Matrix” trilogy. The first masterpiece of the collection is hands down the opening piece, a red silk taffeta cape with a high collar and black embroidery and beading.

The second masterpiece look is actually the designer himself. John Galliano season after season looks to craft his vision for each collection into his personal look and appearance at the close of each show. This season the designer didn’t hit the runway in a matching red look, instead bowed to a black pallet and reinventing a warrior of the revolution. Almost a mercenary look whose inspiration or mentor is the legendary Zorro. Mixing black leather with black taffeta to create a strapey modern look. Bravo Monsieur Galliano!

view collection here

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Giorgio Armani’s couture collection for Spring brings femininity into his signature sophisticate looks. Armani opened the collection with his classic evening suits. The emphasis of the evening suit is on the structure and decoration of the lapels, adding lace, layers and detailed beading. The tailoring of the jacket is a new look for the designer, veering away from the relaxed tailor look; Armani opted for a modern cut and form, a styling synonymous of Westwood and Mugler. The jacket that jumped out at me was the layers of ruffles on the lapel and on the sleeve cuff.

Armani took a leap with this being his 3rd couture collection, a big leap by out numbering his evening suits with dress and gowns. Finally Giorgio understands that the couture client needs dresses and gown more than a jacket or suit. Opening the evening gown section, Armani showed a clean and feminine silk chiffon gown in pale peach and pink. Very simple but it moved divinely down the runway. From the sweet color pallet of peaches and pinks, Armani added dark blue and silver pieces.

Couture is all about invention and designing for woman who wants to be adorned and needs perfection. This collection is proof that Armani really understands that the couture client wants beauty over function and individuality over trends. This is more evident in his evening gowns. Armani showed a midnight blue evening gown with a beaded bodice that looks like a starry night. I was not wild about the dark teal satin evening gown. I also did not like the silk gowns and dress with the silk screening of a ladybug print.

Although there seems to be no common look in the collection, overall Armani focused on couture client and created a collection of different looks and options. The unique pieces of the collection are certainly the mirrored tile jacket and the tweed skirt suits with ostrich feathers woven into the fabric. For spring Armani presented a number of light colored pieces but the black chiffon gown with tiers of ruffles and laces draping at the bottom of the dress and large lace ruffle around the shoulder. The must see accessory are the ribbon and feather hats (I did not like the mini Armani fez hat we’ve seen in Milan over the past 20 years) and the crystal beaded shawl.

Armani is a vision this season, the collection as whole has so many options and certainly a standout moment for the designer who made the jump to couture over a year ago. Armani managed to take his classic Armani striped suits and add couture details by redoing the lapels and cuff of the jackets. Bravo Monsieur Armani!

view collection here

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For Fall/Winter 2006, expect to bounce back to the dark and earthy pallet that has been missing the last 3 seasons. Milan menswear designers look to the dark side of reality and incorporate a intellect look. A number of great trends came out of almost every show during the Milan fashion week.

1. Knitwear

The big buy for Fall/Winter is knitwear: from big, bulky and chunky weave sweaters, to argyle sweaters in the print of your choice (ranging from Burberry’s Red/Copper colored small argyle print – Zucchelli’s etch-a-sketch print for Calvin Klein, Kean Etro’s puzzle print argyle sweaters in Mauve and Green pallets.)

To the cardigans I have been yearning for season after season. Raf Simons started off the week of shows, showing a gray cardigan that was simple. As the week progressed they took on all shapes and lengths. From D&G’s bulky knit cardigans in gray and blue, to Etro’s argyle puzzle print cardigans of merino wool. The must have Cardigans from Milan are any of the Missoni cardigans; especially their new Swiss Alps design print.

2. Collection Themes

Most Designers seemed to be focused on one theme. While a few rogue designers took the plunge of not conforming to the common interest. Alexander McQueen’s collection of Romanian Vampires and Gangsters is most certainly the most daring a successful look of the week. He crafted a collection of masculine suits and striking outerwear for Fall. McQueen seemed to be the only standout Rogue look of the season while D&G’s nautical collection and Versace’s rewind to the 80’s were a big miss.

Rogue themes aside the main look coming out of Milan is classic English style. From the tailored tweed suits to the bowler hats. Many editors and designers have noted this inspiration was drawn from the Duke of Windsor (not Charles!) Personally, I found looks by Burberry and Gucci, had routes in Edwardian period of tailoring. While Valentino & DSquared used shapes and lines of tailoring from 60’s and 50’s.

3. Neck Scarves

Practically every designer in Milan had a neck scarf in his or her collection. Tied flat to the neck or wrapped loosely. This must have accessory for fall actually hit the catwalks of Rio first. Lets see if the Parisian designers next week adopt this new accessory. My feeling is that it will scarce since the look is so obviously French.

4. Outerwear in all Shapes & Lengths

If you have waiting to buy a killer jacket, overcoat or blazer to add to small collection of outerwear, the opportunity will arise next Fall. Designers took outerwear and given the world a season of endless options or possibilities. The fabrics of choice are most certainly tweeds and wool, but designers even found leathers to be the perfect accessory to such a decadent and earthy season.

The best overcoats of the season come from such designers as Christopher Bailey at Burberry and Giorgio Armani’s Velvet pieces. The standout pieces belong a few designers this season. Alexander McQueen’s embroidered and beaded overcoats in all black are perfect for that special event. I have my eye on it for my wedding coming up in Fall 07’. Another standout overcoat for the season is Gucci’s black overcoat that had no collar and the coats was cut to the body but flared out from the waist, creating a movement of fabric when you walk.

Etro’s overcoats is one of my must have pick for the season. From the full-length tweed coats with a velvet collar, to his paisley print full-length coats with a suede collar and red satin lining. Very romantic but very masculine!

5. Baggy & Straight Leg Pants

Season after Season we have seen nothing put tapered leg pants. For first time this season designers take the opportunity change menswear. Although a bulk of the shows did show a skinny or tapered pant in the collection. The big must have pants for this season is the straight leg and baggy pants.

Designers took the new full leg look and focused on the fabrics rather than the fine detail of its tailoring. For his signature collection Armani had special made velvets shaped into a full let with either a flared bottom hem or a tapered cuff with a full leg. Also have to mention Missoni’s tweed and wool pants.

The must have pants of the season are the straight leg corduroy pants from Bottega Veneta & Burberry. Both designers showed the corduroy pant in a deep rust color or dark chocolate brown. Along with Dolce & Gabanna’s full leg tweed pant their wool pinstripe pant with a denim waist. The best pant of the season is certainly Alexander McQueen’s high-waisted pinstripe and tuxedo pants

6. Accessories

More accessories the better, from the neck scarves, designers in Milan offered a number of long scarf’s and even capes. The must have accessories for Fall/Winter in Milan are the tweed and leather wingtips shown in all leather at DSquared and with tweed and leather mixed at Etro.

My hands down must have piece from Milan are:

1. Alexander McQueen’s red tartan full leg and high waisted pant. Perfect for all heights and sizes. A nod to Scotsman out there and certainly fitting to the plaids and tartans of the season. Although McQueen's bold use of color and theatrics makes the look a standout moment during a recycled week of shows.

2. Miu Miu’s Windsor check trench coat that is tailored close to the waist, with no collar and a double-wide lapel. The jacket just moved with the model. It's modern and young, a look that is desperately needed this season.

Onto Paris!

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Frank Sinatra is alive in Milan, designer Tomas Maier take the Bottega Veneta back to the classic with its menswear as well as luxury goods. Maier focused very clean and defined look that exudes intelligence. Sinatra is certainly the inspiration for the opening section but the collection as a whole is University Professor/Harrison Ford’s Indiana Jones theme. The collection was filled with a large number of luxury goods, from cross country backpacks to travel totes.

Maier focused on keeping his color pallet very natural and easy on the eye for Fall. A lot of chocolate and latte browns, greens and grays. Molding this striking colors into some sophisticated looks. From the dark and light brown corduroy suits even the tailored tweed suits. The Bottega pant is tapered to the leg but they do offer a straight leg pant.

With the abundance of great suits and outerwear, accessories are the next best thing. For Fall Bottega offers a number of plaid scarves and ties. The small satin bow ties are just simply darling and gave the models a little dandy look. To my delight Bottega Veneta used my family tartan on a vest, tie and the lining of a jacket. The collection as a whole is complete sell to the Bottega client. From the waist-length crocodile jackets, to the muted argyle sweaters even the Windsor check suits.

The must have pieces of the collection are the Frank Sinatra hats in the opening of the show. Other must haves from BV are the geometric sweaters, suede shearling coat and the boot cut corduroy pants in khaki or brown. A very Fall/Winter collection with a classic Bottega Veneta look. Bravo Monsieur Maier!

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Designer Kean Etro wrote in his show notes that he drew inspiration from the Duke of Windsor (Not Charles). What is up with everyone and their fascination with the Duke of Windsor this season? For his Fall/Winter collection Kean Etro showed a rather large collection. The designer molded this show to shift color pallets while keeping to strict looks. The Etro pallet for Fall/Winter is very colorful, shifting from mauve to pink to green to blue.

The designer molded each piece or look by making sure there is a masculine fabric like tweed and adding vibrant colors to make the look standout. One example is the full-length tweed overcoats with a velvet collar. This is the only use of velvet in the collection that I really liked. I also fell in love with the tartan print jackets and the paisley overcoats with a suede collar. Etro showed the paisley coat in different color pallets, like purple, rust and green. What made the coats striking were the satin lining inside the coats.

Kean Etro has been known to go overboard with accent colors when creating a collection. This season is no different; the designer threw color into practically every look. The complimentary uses were certainly in the Tibetan patters (yellow/purple paired with brown) and his use of tartans and plaids. But then there are overcoats, which were all mauve and all pink. They were shocking but to much for a collection that is building a look off of patterns such as paisleys and plaids. Etro did use color in some interesting accessories. Like the orange ostrich leather bag which is certainly a must have bag of the season.

While the bags raised a lot of eyebrows, the shoes were creating a lot of smile. Kean showed a number of wingtip and dress shoes with a pointy toe and mixed leather with fabrics in the design of the shoe. He explored color the leather red and honey yellow and mixing different tweed and herringbone fabrics. The must have piece from this collection is Etro’s version of Argyle Print which he reworked into a puzzle pattern, shown in mauve and green. He used the argyle print in both sweaters and cardigans. Another must have from this collection are striped silk sashes worn around the models waist on top of the pant. Bravo Monsieur Etro!

view collection here

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Miucca Prada had a little hairy mishap at the end of Milan fashion week. In the opening of her Miu Miu collection for Fall/Winter the designer showed a rather shocking gorilla haired covered bag. Editors and Buyers began to squirm in their seats at the sight of the bag while the photo pit started to click/click like crazy! After the model turned photo assistants pulled out their laptops and started uploading the photos. The showing of the bag is bad timing with the big controversial headline in the UK of “Dead & Alive” singer & Celebrity Big Brother Contestant Pete Burns parading his vintage Gorilla Hair Jacket on camera. The jacket has sparked controversy in the media and an investigation by police, which has lead to the confiscation of the jacket. Now to be fair, the Miu Miu bag was faux gorilla hair, while the ostrich feather bag was real!

For this collection, Prada and her design team wanted to make it clear that her Miu Miu line is designed with her young clientele in mind. This is most certainly evident with the casting of her models, the oldest looking model had to only be 18 years old. With this young client in mind, Prada focused on the skinny look we’ve seen season after season. The Miu Miu pant is tapered but also made of stretch jersey, which screamed 80’s, Au Coton stretch pants for boys! While I did like the navy blue cords stuffed in a riding boots.

Prada’s design team only showed two real must have coats in the entire collection. First is the black and tweed trench coats that are tailored closed to the waist on the model. The trench had no collar but it did have a doublewide lapel. The second jacket is the collar-less tuxedo jacket with a contrasting velvet lapel. Miu Miu’s overall color pallet is very dark, black, gray and navy.

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After a long week of shows in Milan and designers touching on this season’s top trends such as knitwear, reshaping men’s pants and neck scarves here and there. Giorgio Armani took one trend and built an entire collection of velvet. From the jackets and pants, even the sweaters and accessories. First I will admit I have cringed all week at the use of velvet, but Monsieur Armani has lifted my veil of pessimism of the trend. Only Armani could take a fabric like velvet and not only make it wearable and comfortable but also make it sexy.

The Armani pant for Fall/Winter has made the transition in the bulky pant of the season. Armani took his baggy pant and added a tapered hem or flared hem to the bottom. Armani then took this season velvet and had his milliners make them softer and more relaxed, which created a relaxed and decadent looking fabric. He used the velvet fabric in all his pants and added a number of prints to create sophisticated looks. Some of the prints included argyle, plaids, Windsor check, and some familiar family tartans. The prints were done in darks shade of brown, navy blue and red.

From velvet pants I must jump to the velvet jackets which he used the same velvet prints. But he also used some classic tweed and wool fabrics as well. He showed one wool trench coats, lined with a deep chocolate velvet fabric. He also added a velvet collar to his classic tweed jackets. A must have jacket from this collection is most certainly the tartan print waist-high jackets with matching vest. Armani’s collection was Massive with well over 120 looks total. At one point I started singing songs in my head “Now I am falling Asleep, while she’s calling a cab,”

Although a number of looks were very notable in this collection, Armani showed to many version of the same looks. He also explored some of the other big trends of the season. Such as his version of the Argyle print, which is blown up and no lines to define the diamond shapes. Armani also tried to offer only a handful of cardigan sweater but the end result is drab 80;s look. The closing section at Armani was weak with focus on velvet jackets paired with silk collar-less shirts. The must have look of the collection are the blue velvet pants which were colored to look like denim.

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Italian vixen and fashion model Mariacarla Boscono made a startling appearence yesterday at the Valentino Couture Spring show in Paris. The model has been MIA for the past 3 months and has graced the catwalks with a completely new look. She chopped off her signature jet black mane and now sports a Asymetrical haircut reminisent of Garrin cut. To top off the this new look she has bleached her hair blond as well as her eyebrows. I think this will need some getting use too.

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It’s official; New Line Cinema is green lighting their remake of the MGM classic “The Women”. A travesty, pure and simple! Currently the movie is in pre-production and New Line has already casted Annette Benning, Sandra Bullock, Ashley Judd, Uma Thurman and Meg Ryan.

I have major issues with this movie being remade. Not only because its one of the greatest films ever made. Also because there is not one actress alive who is in the same league as Rosalind Russell, Norma Shear and Joan Crawford! The really odd thing about this film is that Mick Jagger is one of the producers of the film! I am sorry there has never been a greater comedic actress than Rosalind Russell. I have a bad vibe that New Line will not keep to the “No Men” policy when casting the film. So who is playing what role – no official casting of characters has been released. Here is what I am expecting…

	Norma Shear - (Mrs. Stephen Haines – “Mary”) – Meg Ryan
	Joan Crawford – (Crystal Allen) – Ashley Judd
	Rosalind Russell – (Mrs. Howard Fowler – “Sylvia”) – Sandra Bullock
	Joan Fontane – (Mrs. John Day – “Peggy”) – Uma Thurman
	Paullette Goddard – (Miriam Aarons) – Annette Benning
	Virginia Grey – (Pat) – ??????????
	Marjorie Main – (Lucy) - ??????????

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“Oh Captain, My Captain”, Dominico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana are shipping off with another Nautical & Naval theme collection. The design duo carried on with their baggy pants this season, showing practically no tapered leg pants, Thank You! Key pants in this collection are the baggy tweed pants and dark, dark denim jeans. The bleach or distressed jean was shown but it’s a look that needs to come to an end. The change of the D&G pants is noticeable, but the key looks for Fall/Winter are the abundance of knitwear and outerwear. Certainly a top five trends for F/W.

Knitwear has always been a signature look in the designer’s original clothing line. Although this season they showed twice the number of knitwear looks in their D&G collection. The D&G sweaters and cardigans have a bulky form and a thick weave. The must have sweaters are certainly the bulky turtleneck or button collar sweaters. Shown in Navy and Gray. The collection as a whole built on a navy blue pallet with color popping up here and here. Cable knit is certainly a flattering look but the vertical blue/white stripe sweaters are certainly not!

For outerwear the designers reworked and reworked p-coats and naval dress jackets. What they created was a tailored masterpiece. The must have coat from the collection are the Navy Blue P-coat with the tapered waist. The key accessory for the D&G client is not a D&G labeled item. It’s the sandals by Birkenstock, worn with wool socks!

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Grab your luggage and get ready to follow Valentino into the skies. This season the designer shows us how our grandparents use to fly. In real style! For Fall/Winter Valentino emphasized the gentleman’s need to look sophisticated but masculine as well. The runway backdrop was private jet rotating for your viewing pleasure, something I will never get to experience I am sure! Valentino showed a number stand out pieces in this collection, from the long trenches with wide lapels (a signature jacket that Valentino first showed back in 60’s in his womenswear collection) to all the luggage pieces.

This seasons seems to be all about outwear and accessories for men. The Valentino pant for Fall is either tapered or straight legged. When the models walked you can see how they were not cut properly. The flat front of the pant shows the models crotch in movement. Knitwear is certainly the big trend of the season but Valentino opted to bow out of this seasons hot must have. Only showing one sweater cardigan with a high collar.

The best pieces are most certainly all of Valentino’s outerwear, from the trench coats to the waist length crocodile bomber jacket. Another Valentino must have is the gray wool coat with the square panel front buttoned onto the front of the jacket. I was not impressed with satin jackets and sheerling coats, looks that have used to much this season. I was very please to see some classic Valentino tweed blazers pared with purple and gray plaid scarf.

Enough already with the whole Brokeback cowboy looks. Although I have to give applause to Valentino for only showing one looks in his collection, two cowboys walking hand in hand – Sorry boys, Both those models are straight in the real world! The second must haves of this collection are most certainly Valentino’s luggage for holiday travel this year. Two collections really jumped out at you, the 20’s deco print luggage win brown/yellow and gray/black. The collection are the white patent leather luggage with red leather trim, striking and versatile for Fall or Summer…who say you can’t carry white after Labor Day! Bravo Monsieur Valentino!

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Last Thursday night, Singer Lou Reed hosted a exhibit of his work at the Hermes store on 5th Avenue. The exhibit entitled “Lou Reed’s New York” consisted of a selection of Reed’s photographs. In attendance were a large number of art critics, artists and collectors. Also in attendance was the model legend, Ms. Carmen Del Orifice. Looking amazing in a St. Laurent jacket and Chanel broach. Carmen is one of Avedon's muses from the 50's, she began her carrer in model back in

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Dean & Dan Caten wonder back to the motherland and escape their wild ways. For Fall/Winter the twin designers focused on building a look for the university chap who needs some life in his wardrobe. Also incorporating the cowboy trend of the season and giving it their randy dandy spin. To open the collection the duo showed their version of this season cardigan. A polo inspired cardigan with a thick collar. I also love the green cardigan paired with a rust colored corduroy pant and contrasting brown wingtips.

To add a little more English flare to the collection, the duo added some Scottish tartan in the lining of jackets and coats. For Fall/Winter the Caten brothers showed loose fit pants, the only tapered or tight fitting pants were their riding pants. This full leg was also used for all of the denim pants along with a wide cuff at the bottom. While most designers in Milan have veered as far from color as they possibly can. The DSquared2 duo jumps at the use of color adding red/rust/orange/pink and purple.

Another first for the brothers this season is there interest in offering strong outerwear. Terrific tweed coats and one coat that is a must have for the season, a camel coat with a dark brown leather trim. As much as I love there use of color, the red and green leather jackets and pants were a little too much.

In the closing section the brothers pulled of a near perfect evening section. In the opening of this section they offered a handful of great day suits. They had 20’s look to them, Gable meet Bogart, strong shoulders and loosely tailored. Other standout looks include the tweed pants paired with tuxedo jackets and tuxedo shirts. The must have pieces of this collection are an of the day suits shown at the close of the show. Bravo Boys!

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At Roberto Cavalli, guests were treated to Louis XVI decorated salon as the backdrop for the runway. As first section of the collection came down the runway, editor and buyers had a confused look on their faces. The designer opted to show a number of modern jackets and suits, which at first glance appeared to be toned down. This modern look did not fit the imagery created by the runway backdrop. Slowly Cavalli added animal furs and prints to the suits. Then attempting to jump into his loud and decadent style in one clean swoop by showing orange and purple patent leather pants.

The second section began to evolve opening with a classic navy overcoat cut below the knee with corduroy pants. But this sophisticated look began to slowly shift as he added this seasons velvet jackets and suits that I have been cringing at. I was favoring a teal velvet jacket with olive corduroy pants. Kimono shirts are a unique find in this collection. Which was shown with a number of brightly colored jackets like the red long overcoat.

In the closing section Cavalli and his wife Eva Duringer escaped the tapered leg pants for evening. Showing a number of tuxedos with a full or baggy leg pant. Overall the Cavalli tuxedo are classic but are shown with a number unique pieces. Like the black sequined tuxedo shirt. Overall the Cavalli collection seemed to be all over the place and as a whole it did not fit the setup of the runway. The must have accessory for this collection are the leather and tweed loafers and wingtips.

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For Fall/Winter 2006 designer John Ray seems to be too glued to this seasons trends. From the neck scarves to his abundant use of velvets. In the first section Ray kept to the trademark Gucci tailored look with a lot of black suits. One of the striking pieces of the opening section was the long overcoat. They had no lapels and Ray draped them so they had a flare from the waist to the hem.

In the second section Ray showed gamine tuxedo shirts with silk vests and sachets around the waist. I did not find the see through dress shirts attractive. The Gucci pant is still tapered but this season they seem to be cut incorrectly. As the models walked the fabric began bustle in the crotch. For the third section the designer again took this seasons Wild West trend. Incorporating plaid shirts and boots.

In the closing section John opted to keep with the classic Gucci tuxedo and then changed the dress shirts and using way too much velvet. Ray was too safe this season with keeping to the season’s trends, its too easy keep to trends and the average buyer will jump at classic pieces rather than spend $500 on a plaid shirt they can get from Miller’s Outpost for $25. I hope next season Ray is able to break out of this protective shell his place himself into. I know the Gucci group is becoming more and more strict but you have learned to handle your employers’ demands.

On a good note I will have say I loved the closing evening coat. A black wool floor length coat lined with dark chocolate mink. Very sexy and yes I know very impractical, but you will see a lot of it in the magazines come August.

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Alexander McQueen takes Romanian mobsters and vamps into a legion of well-dressed patrons to Dracul. In the opening section of McQueen’s collection for Fall/Winter, he reworked the mobster suits of the 30’s into decadent modern looks. The pant legs are heavy; a relaxed look much needed this season. One of the big trends for this collection is the high waist of the pants, the button just above the stomach rather than around the waist. I am growing tired of the skinny pants coming out Milan. McQueen showed the mobster suit in a deep burgundy and gray pinstripe wool fabrics.

After a small section of suits the designer showed a camel trench with a wide lapel. Then McQueen showed a leather trench lined with sheerling topped off a aviator flying suit synonymous with Howard Hughes. The models slowly started to look like vampires as the collection progressed, their eyes gradually getting more and more red.

In the second section of the collection, McQueen showed a number business/evening looks. The satin stripe jackets and pants were a little too matchy. While the classic McQueen tuxedos took new shape with the high waisted pant. A few unique pieces were shown in this section, like the tulle and lace captains jacket, which looked like a black shell on the model. Also note the embroidered overcoat and waistcoat in all black, beading and all.

The collection shifted from the masculine mobster power suits too the vampiric decadence and end with a section of Japanese geisha’s mixed with English fabrics. Inspiration most certainly is being drawn from the movie “Memoirs of Geisha”. The high waisted pant was shown in a large red tartan print, with a full leg. Paired with another beautiful black embroidered jacket. Alexander also showed another tartan outfit, a tartan kimono with red silk sachet.

In the closing section the designer took his black on black embroidered jackets and used white embroidery on the a black jacket and a matching women’s evening gown. McQueen showed a number of women’s gowns in the Japanese geisha section, a subtle hint of what to expect next month in Paris. The must have pieces of this collection is most certainly any of the embroidered jacket and of the pinstripe or tartan pants. As much as I didn’t like it, the big gray cable knit sweater was a bit a change of shape we he might want to explore, especially for us heavy boys! Bravo Monsieur McQueen!

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The Neil Barrett collection for Fall/Winter is all about the jacket. He offered numerous jackets and coats. Two tone jackets and even a tweed/leather bomber jacket. Bombers seemed to be subtly bringing the military theme back into the collection, all though this is a look we saw last season. Military aside I did like the army green tone suit although the pant was tapered.

A bulk of the pants Barrett showed were tapered and skinny, a look that has continue for almost 6 seasons, since Hedi Slimane started using it for Dior. Barrett did offer a full pant that was tapered at the knee. Creating a “s” or hourglass shape for the pant leg. Knitwear has never really been Barrett’s strong suit. This season is no exception! Most of the sweaters Barrett offered were too bulky and the weave of the yarn made the sweater look sloppy.

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For Fall/Winter, Prada creates a simple collection to keep its clientele happy. She season she keeps true to her signature masculine look. Although Prada offered only a handful of standout looks. It’s easy to get districted by the number of pieces and accessories that were a bit out of place. Do I even dare mention the fur-covered helmets?

Miucca’s knitwear for this season did include a few cardigans but the overall look of the knitwear is not defined and drab looking. She did try to throw in a little color this season by offering a faux leopard print coat, which was little to overboard. While she too jumped at this season trend of offering an eel skin suits, as seen at Versace. The Prada pant is still tapered and flat front. This collection is a big step backwards for Prada.

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Of coarse you have read the headlines that Donatella seems be hitting the rewind button a little too far for her Fall/Winter collection. Madam Versace revived the classic 80’s Versace power suits, shoulder pads and all. And I am not talking about womenswear. The opening section of the Versace collection seemed to be offering a new look for its clients. I loved all the wool tweed overcoats and jackets with leather trim on the lapels and hems. I also liked the gray wool suit jacket with leather strips inserted to the body of the jacket. It was a little 80’s but it did not go to far.

At this point of the collection, Versace jumped back to the 80’s. Suits and jackets with big collars, two tone leather bomber jackets (in purple & blue). Then Versace went to far by adding leather inserts to sweaters. I just threw away a similar sweater from the 80’s. Then Donatella got everyone really squirming in their seats. They could stomach the shoulder pads and big collars, but in the closing section she revived the Versace eel skin suits.

Versace had a few great pieces in the opening of the collection but the collection as a whole is wash. A direction that menswear doesn’t need to go. Menswear designers over the past 15 years have worked hard to build new clientèle by slowly giving them what they want and need while slowly adding something new to teach them they can explore and be daring. In one collection Versace just tossed 15 years of hard work out the door. Must I remind Madam Versace that 80’s were really rough for menswear, not to mention the 90’s? Enough Said!

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Missoni has been the label that never veers from its classic color, more color visions. From this motto they created a signature weave design that has been in almost every collection for the past 15 years. This season Luca Missoni took family fashion house through a shift of change while keeping to the family motto. In the program notes, the designer stated she the Duke of Windsor was her inspiration for this collection. Sorry I just don’t see it! What I do see is a very sophisticate and not stuffy at all, collection. With the weave designs and prints coming from an obvious Peruvian and Chilean inspiration.

Missoni opened the collection with a large and small Peruvian design on jackets, knitwear and capes! The jackets are knee length while the Missoni pant is pleated with a baggy leg. Missoni showed a large number of wool pants. I was not to impress by the new Missoni velvet suit, a trend I dislike more and more this season.

In the middle section Luca showed her version of the Swiss Alps sweater, she reworked the classic sweater to meet with her new Chilean designs. Offered on sweaters as well as cardigans. Cardigans are the must have pieces from the Missoni collection. Luca offered different cardigans in each section of the collection, from the Swiss Alps sweaters to the Chilean design.

This collection is most certainly a change from the classic looks we’ve seen in the last couple of years. Luca Missoni was most certainly successful in molding this new look into the Missoni look. Giving us hope that Luca will continue to explore more and build off this successful attempt to reinvent the Missoni graphic design of its work. Bravo Madam Missoni!

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After last seasons lost vision of what would Sander do or what would Simons do; this season is move in the right direction but its not a spot on Sander collection. Designer Raf Simons took the reigns of Sander design team for his first collection for the label.

This season Simons looks for the modern form synonymous with the Sander look and made it more relaxed. Absent in the opening of the collection was the tailored Sander form. Instead the suits and jackets are loose and boxy. While the Sander pant is tapered and flat front; giving the black and gray flannel suits a top-heavy look. The models looked like stick men wear clothing that belonged on a bigger “Ken” doll.

Although bold color is not a Sander signature, Simons did play with pale shades of beige and peach in leather jackets and dress shirts. The standout pieces that Simons created this season are the knitwear, hands down! Simons made sure to concentrate on the form of sweaters while keeping to his color pallet. I particularly liked the wishbone neckline that Simons created.

The must pieces from the collection are most certainly any of the knitwear. In particular the gray cardigan, its rather random that designers are adding cardigans to their collection for Fall/Winter. Right before Christmas I was hunting everywhere for a great cardigan. I miss wearing cardigans. Raf Simons first collection for Jil Sander is a full-hearted attempt. This has to be one of the best collections since Sanders last exit. Bravo Monsieur Simons!

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Enino Capasa took the Wild West trend this season a little lightly in his collection for Costume National. Only showing a few jackets with the high waist front and tails. I did like the small bowlers the models were wearing. He kept the collection pallet dark wit a lot of black and grays. In the opening section he showed a number of gray wool suits with red and orange satin lining the jackets. This simple hint of color really made you focused on the jackets.

Capasa showed a number of leather pieces, which really did not fit the collection as a whole, like the high waisted leather jackets. On leather jacket that I did like was the leather suit jackets that were loosely cut and in all black.

Costume National rarely offers jackets and overcoats that really standout. This season they offered some of the best trenches of the season. Loosely cut for relaxed tailored look and in a number of colors (white/tan/gray & black) In the closing section Capasa seemed to really loose focus of his collection. First he offered a near perfect look of a satin tuxedo with red satin lining. Then he shifted into a number of pieces that looked like a disco drag queens designed it. Showing tulle shirts and sequin jackets. The collection as a whole was a complete miss for the designers. As much as I loved the trench coats in this collection, you just can’t get past the high waited gold lame and beaded lapel jackets.

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It looks like Dominico and Stefano are bundling up for a long winter in the Alps. The opening section of their Fall/Winter collection was all wool tweed, herringbone and denim. After about 5 or 6 outfits it became pretty obvious what the inspiration was for this collection. Johnny Depp was all over this collection; it reeked of his south of France bourgeois attire.

In the opening section the designers took wool fabrics in brown and gray pallets and mixed them with denim. Then they began to mix in wool pinstripe fabrics with Denim creating a pinstripe wool pant with a denim waist. The designers added their signature form fitting dress shirts and some great high collar sweaters in brown and gray.

One of the must have suits in this collection is the chocolate wool pinstripe suite. Another great look was their pairing pinstripe jackets with stiff denim pants. From pinstripes the designers shifted to velvet pants and jackets, I have a feeling that Velvet will become a trend fabric for the season, since both D&G and Burberry are using it in the first day of Milan shows.

The designer duo took the day and evening suits and really mixed them up this season. But they also decided to have some fun in their collection. I love the Sergeant Pepper style dress shirts and French military jackets in red, green and blue. The only scary items in this section were the velvet paisley jackets.

In the last section of the Dolce & Gabbana collection, the designers took the classic tuxedo and reminded the clock by mixing classic old west looks with Edwardian details. This is the season to get a perfect Dolce & Gabbana tuxedo; the designer presented so many options you have no idea where to begin. From modern classic jackets paired with pleated full pants or Wild West high waisted jacket with tails in the back. They even presented timeless Edwardian long jacket styles. I did love all the velvet tuxedos, whether it’s a full velvet suit or just a velvet-trimmed jacket.

This is most certainly one of Dolce & Gabanna’s best collections in the last 10 years. It’s decadent with D&G details and sellable look for buyers. The must have items are most certainly any of the Wild West tuxedos, with waist high front and tails in the back. The second must have item from the collection are any of the bulky turtleneck sweaters. Bravo Monsieur Dolce and Monsieur Gabbana.

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Christopher Bailey’s Fall/Winter collection for Burberry is taking gentlemen’s attire back to classic lines, looks and textures. Bailey opened the collection with a large section of gentleman day suits in dark royal blues, black and gray. The Burberry suit was offered in pinstripes and thick black wool. The fashion house is celebrating its 150th anniversary this year and Bailey was able to take the classic Burberry style and remastered it for modern but classic collection of suits.

The Burberry pant is still tapered and the jackets added a mid-60’s mod look to the suits. For this Fall the designer offered an abundant number of long scarves but also silk neck scarves; an accessory that we saw a couple of times during Rio last week. From the dark blue and black suit section, Bailey shifted into more color adding red, copper and rust tones in pants, tops and sweaters. I loved the small argyle pattern sweaters in red and rust. I also felling love with the burgundy loose weave sweater.

The Burberry client will certainly have a large number of jackets and overcoats to choose from next fall. Bailey tailored the evening section to be close fitting, created a hour glass for on the models. I was really excited to see Burberry’s new winter collegiate school jacket, offered in Black and Brown. The quilted jackets, which Bailey did in red, black and brown, they did not fit into the collection.

In the evening section Bailey presented a number of overcoats for the Fall season. Pants for the evening are also tapered but I was not a big fan of the pin striped velvet pants or even the full suit version. Other dislikes include the cheetah prints tops and the herringbone coat. Althoug I did like the fur collar herringbone coat. Overall I found the evening section to be a little to drab.

The must have of the collection are the royal blue Burberry suits. The collection as a whole is very decadent and delicious. Bravo Monsieur Bailey!

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This was my first attempt in reviewing the collection in Rio. I was only able to post a few pieces, but I didn’t have a lot to work with. Designers in Rio overall seemed to be very lost in the function of creating a collection or even the evolution of Fashion and the power they wield. A number of designer just seem to scoff at the idea of what their clientele want or even the need to build a clientele.

Out of 4 days of shows, I was lucky to even see one collection that I liked. To be honest only one show was a complete standout. The design team at Acqua Studio produced the best collection by far in Rio. It was classic and modern while appealing the fancy glitz of Rio fashion world. Unfortunately, I only little review as there was little to work with, so I opted to keep to familiar rule of if you have nothing good to say, say nothing at all. I did slip just a little.

Rio produced any new trends; Rio typically follows trends from some of the major capitals around the world. Everything from the abundance of lace, ruffles and layers. Not to mention techno blue, techno blue along with the dark pallet. From here it’s onto Milan for Men’s Fashion Week. Fingers Crossed for something NEW!

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The designer label Alessa’s invitation read like a grocery list. And to the surprise of the buyers and editors, it was to be held at a grocery store. I know you heard right! The designer opted to show her collection this season in major grocery store. Models were scattered throughout the store, from cleaning supplies isle to the dairy cases; all the way over by the doggy chow and liquor department. Too bad you weren’t allowed to touch the goods. But someone did see a major editor buy a pack of smokes on the way out.

The overall look for the Alessa collection was colorful and deconstructed. Offering dresses and skirts in flannel and jersey and jackets in heavy twill. An odd combination but you are most certainly distracted by the colors rather than cheap quality of the fabrics. I lost the focus of this collection when I saw a model with a simple black cocktail dress leaning against a shelf of Chips Ahoy! Something is right about that imagery. Not to mention the large amount of accessories the designer used and abused. They opted make the models use their purses like a shopping cart, green beans and cilantro hanging out of your silver lame purse is a little scary.

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Yes, I am an award show junky! Let’s just get that straight. For the arrivals, this year I opted to watch the NBC coverage. Giving up the usual Joan and Melissa Rivers. I am in protest of Joan’s repetitive joke of her incontinence. One year off the Rivers shtick is a healthy thing. On NBC Nancy O’Dell and Dean Cane hosted the red carpet coverage. Sadly Dean Cane only got a total 45 seconds of airtime. I like Nancy O'Dell even though she choose Wendy Pepper to be a finalist on Project Runway.....kicking out Austin Scarlet.

Well lets begin with the best dressed on the red carpet. First up is Nancy O’Dell herself, is purple silk satin gown with a plunging v-neck line. She looked great, her hair pulled back and flawless make-up. I didn’t like the gold flower necklace with slinky chains. George Clooney was very cheerful and it must be his new short haircut, which not only makes him look younger but a little more cleaned up. Other gents who opted to hit the barbershop before the ceremonies were few in number. Some notable are Jonathan Rhys Myers and Heath Ledger.

Now I understand why some actors strayed away from the sheers but in short only the TV actors have a good reason, being they are in the middle of mid-season shoots. But actors like Will Farrell and Johnny Depp don’t really have an excuse. Farrell is not shooting at the moment and Depp is shooting Pirates 2&3, which required him to wear a wig.

The best dressed couples were

1. Michelle Williams & Heath Ledger

2. Ed Harris & Amy Madigan

3. Reese Witherspoon & Ryan Phillipe

Now onto the good stuff, my best dressed ladies of the night. Here are my top 5 picks:

1. Michelle Williams – was the visually stunning and winner of best improvement for the evening. Michele played it smart by choosing a tiered Ricardo Tisci for Givenchy gown in multiple shades of purple. The color of the gown worked perfect with her coloring and the look topped off with clean and natural makeup and her hair pulled back with a little unfinished look to match the deconstructed look of her dress.

2. Reese Witherspoon – wore a vintage white Chanel dress with a gold plate bead bodice and silver lace trimmed underskirt. Very classic and such a keeper.

3. Renee Zellweger – was stunning in her favorite designer Carolina Herrera. Wearing a black chiffon and charmeuse gown with bias straps in both fabrics. The slit up the leg was perfect cut, just enough leg to make the jaws of the fashion world to drop to the floor.

4. Gwyneth Paltrow – visited Paris couture house of Balenciaga and had a custom made white maternity gown made by Nicholas Ghesquiere. The gown was very romantic and very 18th century Jane Austin. One of Gwyneth best looks ever!

5. Pamela Anderson – I know everyone is cringing right now but she makes my top 5 because she wore a vintage black & white Bill Blass gown. Which covered everything perfectly, not only did the gown make Anderson look classic and sophisticated, she was able to make a Bill Blass gown look SEXY. Who knew a Bill Blass gown could be sexy?

Honorable mentions for best dressed is a rather long list. It seems that the ladies hired the right people to pick out their gown choices. Kiera Knightly opted for the evening favorable white, wearing a strapless white Valentino gown. Kyra Sedgwick looked amazing in a chocolate brown Bottega Veneta gown, but I can’t say the same for her husband Kevin Bacon, who looks to be still in a midlife crisis. Vanessa Paradis toned down her bohemian ways and wore a simple and serene gray satin Chanel gown. And Laura Linney definitely had the best red dress of the evening. Laura wore a signature red Valentino gown with red sating waist and trim down the slit and hem. Simply Stunning!.

My most honorable mention for the best-dressed ladies has to be Patricia Arquette. Patricia is already a voluptuous woman and she opted for a black silk taffeta and lace strapless gown. The gown fit her like a glove and she look absolutely breathtaking.

I was able to breakdown my worst dress list to 5:

1. Rachel Wiesz – was a pure example of being over worked by your hair and makeup team. That’s not even mentioning the mess of dress she was wearing, A wrinkled silk gown in matte gold was supposedly a custom made Donna Karan gown. The gown was too bulky and the color did not work with Rachel’s flawless complexion.

2. Rasario Dawson – opted for beaded peach chiffon Vintage Versace gown. She spent the entire evening trying to keep her left breast in the dress while the other hand was holding up the hem of her skirt to prevent her from stepping on the dress.

3. Virginia Madsen – wore a pale seafoam strapless gown, which the cameras accidentally got a shot of her getting out of the limo as pulled off a successful save of her chest from failing out on national television.

4. Teri Hatcher – wore a copper beaded Versace gown that matched her fake tan and it was way to long on her, she kept holding it up.

5. Anne Hathaway – decided on a starry night cocktail dress by Marc Jacobs shown last October. The dress was midnight navy blue with beading to make it look like a starry night, but against Hathaway’s fair skin you get confused at what look at.

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This years Golden Globes was one big bore fest. The show was too political and stuffy. What were absent were all the memorable moments, although there were a few high points.

1. Watching the red carpet coverage on NBC was rather interesting – it was a battle of the Networks. Shawn Robinson was interviewing George Clooney down on the red carpet, behind George and Shawn you could see Mary Hart (Entertainment Tonight) on a platform above staring down towards George. She has this really pissed off look on her face, she repeatedly turns towards a man standing next to hear screaming in his ear and motioning towards George. I immediately changed to ET coverage on channel 4 to find George being interviewed by Mary Hart. Mary seemed to be all bug eyed and bouncing off the walls. George promptly says “you match like crazy!” Mary agrees “Yes my dress, lipstick and even my nails” (All Pink) the George turns and looks behind Mary and says “wait look, that woman over there matches you as well!” Mary turns and from her side profile you can see her fake smile change to “YOU BITCH!” look – Mary turns back to George and pokes back with “George your such a humor filled guy!” the interview was over! – I switched back to NBC – but could George be hopped up on pain killers?

2. Back to a great George Clooney moment – George won best supporting Actor for Syriana. During his acceptance speech George thanks Jack Abrimoff…..and follows with why would anyone name their kid Jack when there last name contains the word “Off”. Classic!

3. I was very happy to see Paul Newman win best supporting actor for Empire Falls but was more disappointed that Joanne Woodward didn’t win best supporting actress for Empire Falls – I thought she was more powerful in the TV movie than Newman.

4. Other women who were robbed… Patricia Arquette for Medium and Michelle Williams for Brokeback Mountain – Michelle and Patricia were seriously robbed – they prove that blonds can be more than just a pretty face!

5. I was extremely happy that S. Epatha Merkerson (Law & Order) won for best actress in a mini-series. I think she probably had the best one liner for the night. “I am 53 years old and I feel like I am 16 right now, even though I am having some serious heavy hot flashes right now!”

6. Loved how Harrison Ford walked out to present an award holding his Vodka and Tonic behind his back and then Virginia Madsen grabs it and holds it up as proof that Harrison was hammered!

7. I am really excited that Emmy Lou Harris’s dong “A Love That Will Never Grow Old” from Brokeback Mountain won best song. Looking forward to seeing Emmy Lou perform it at the Oscars.

8. I was really mad that Heath Ledger did not win for Best Actor, Phillip Seymour Hoffman was my runner up so I am not to bitter!

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Cantão was foaming at the mouth; they were a little over eager to using prints in ever look. But the colors and quality of prints were striking. The Cantão design team was very clever by pairing these loud prints with some great cardigans and sweaters. The only items that seemed to stick out in a bad way was their denim pieces which we over-tailored or over distressed. Then there is the structure and cut of their skirts. Very simple but the form is a little to recognizable. The must have pieces from this collection was the crisp white wrap blouse with ruffle trim lining the entire blouse. My second must have pick is any of the cashmere cardigans or simple the burgundy crochet cape sweater. Bravo Cantão!

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Golden Globes Best Dressed

Goes to Hayden Pannetiere

Not to mention
Best Hair & Makeup

Honorable Mention and Best Sexy Little Dress

Goes to Reese Witherspoon

Best Accessories

Hands Down Reese Witherspoon
The best accessory, matching heels and jewlery!

Posted by turlie at 04:06 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

Slim pickings during Rio Fashion Week, sadly the second day was completely dry. On the third day, they rose again! Well just little bit! Designer Luiza Bonadiman is most certainly on that lost list of designers. Her named label’s fall collection was absent. Models were scantly dressed in resort collection for fall? Does that make sense to you? The designer had a wreck of a collection on her hands, what did she do to save the show? She over accessorized all of the models. And come on, using gamine on bras, tops and bathing suits make a full collection.

The design label Colcci also seemed to be lost this season. The duo opted for a safe muted pallet this season. The end result is a collection of under worked pieces on big name models…. now I know this is a common practice for new designers. But please don’t insult us! For the paparazzi the highlight of the collection was the presence of Gisele Bündchen. Also I was not a big fan of the male models wearing aged floral print women’s shirts. Over all the collection made me sleepy and confused!

Of coarse I save the best for last, the design team for Complexo B seems to be flying high this season. The design team presented their 3rd menswear collection with male models walking the runway with painted cardboard wings. It looked like a Michael Alig production with a budget. The collection as a whole is not only not wearable and broken up but its not appealing. What guy is going to wear a lime green suite or hot pink hot shorts for Fall/Winter? I am still on the fence with the neck scarves the boys were wearing. I am not sure if its something bad, think back it did catch my eye!

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The sun has certainly not been shinning at RIO fashion week. Designers as a whole have opted for very little color. But the hit show during the collection week opted for a gray tone collection with of hints of color here and there. The design team under the name Acqua Studio not presented a visually pleasing collection. They also presented proof that their design capabilities as well as they ability to cut is almost a Parisian quality. Not to mention their ability to drape the hell out of dress.

The jackets alone consumed my interest and that’s not even mentioning the skirts and dresses. Acqua presented a number of different jackets, but the draping and cuts of the jackets were not only modern, but seem to flatter the models over look. They presented most of the collection in wool and tweed fabrics. But the combination of these fabrics gives their look a masculine presence, while the cut is famine look and quality.

Then there are the skirts, wool trimmed with leather, gray pinstripe fabric trimmed with sequins. What’s interesting is the designers’ ability to cut and add little details to catch your eye at numerous points of the outfit. Using leather and sequins, even contrast stitching. I cannot rave enough about this collection. After a long week of misguided and lost designers, seeing pure dedication to the craft of fashion is refreshing.

The must have pieces in this collection is the leaf print pieces, several blouses and a couple of skirts. The print was presented on a white jersey fabric in blue, brown or gray. Bravo!

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Some day I hope to make back out to DC to see Julia Child's Kitchen at the Smithsonian's Behring Center. I grew up watching her show, she is one of the main reasons I fell in love with and learned so quickly to cook. My fondest memory is getting to see Julia speak and teach at J&W.

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Rio fashion week has kicked off the wave of Collection for Fall/Winter 2006. Starting this weekend Milan Menswear Fashion Week will start on Sunday. All eyes will be focused back Alexander McQueen, who last season got the news after his S/S show from his investor, the Gucci Group that he needed to stop playing around and start making some money. He pulled together a near perfect S/S collection for women’s….but we’ll have to see if his menswear will pull off the same fete.

The usual suspect during Milan shows are Christopher Bailey for Burberry and I have a feeling that designer Dolce & Gabbana may get a little more crazy this season. I am also interested in seeing Christian Lacroix’s collection as well. Hopefully he is not to crazy or rushed this season like last. Although, Lacroix does has his couture collection 5 days after the menswear show. Finger Crossed!

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Fashion week for Fall/Winter 2006 is underway down in Rio de Janeiro. Unfortunately only the major capitals (Paris, Milan, NYC & London) are seem to be moving forward with fashion while smaller cities struggle to keep up. Rio is definitely in this crowd smaller metropolitans that struggle to define fashion in their own vision.

This week Rio designers are certainly one season behind. The rampant use of the techno clue in the first day alone amounted to 3 out 5 designers. All of last season’s big trends are echoed in the first day alone. From the use lace and ruffles in tops and dresses to baby doll dresses galore!

The first designer to show was Santa Ephigenia; the designer used the same fabrics over and over. He only presented one print fabric that was to in numerous dresses,, jackets and even on belts. Although the designer used a plevy of black he did mange to splash some greens and browns. Ephigenia’s F/W collection is too dark, there seemed to be no defining looks for buyers and editors to grab at.

Maria Bonita Extra fell into the spring color trend bucket several times. Extra’s collection for Fall/Winter had very little similar looks; she seemed to be lost in creating a common form for the collection. I must point out her blatant copy of Diane Von Furstenberg prints from last season. Copying others work is very common in the industry, but copying a designers work the following season is just plain wrong. Maria do the designer the courtesy and respect of waiting two seasons to past before ripping him blind.

At Maria Fernanda Lucena, early in the collection, I was loving the direction was going with her earthy deconstructed collection. But the abundance of deconstruction just kept coming out. Overall the pieces she presented were over worked, which in the end result will increase the cost of her pieces to be reproduced. Something that buyers will note immediately and it will hurt the potential her label receiving orders. On a side note, personally I felt like I was watching an episode of Project Runway, So Jay McCarrol.

At the Novos Designers Showcase, designers Gustavo Muchado and Felipe Fonesca presented their menswear collection label Chiaro. I felt like I was watching a Chanel collection for male crack addicts who like to skate and want to be lumberjacks, just picture that! The designers mixed numerous fabrics together in individual pieces and adorned all the male models with strands of oversize Chanel fabric flowers. I know, read that line again, men wearing Chanel flowers! It’s a sight.

To close out the first day in Rio, I needed to take a Advil real quick! At the Redley show there were so many colors in such a small collection. Less than 30 looks were thrown together under the guideline of the designers’ love for “Color on Color” and “Lengths upon Lengths” Overall the designer seemed to be looking at the Alps for inspiration this season. Bottom-line its just one big overworked collection for a little girl name Heidi. I think this show is where my migraine started to kick in! ”I need another pill!”

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I am big Starbucks junky and lately I have been toting my laptop to my local Starbucks in Los Gatos, CA to work on my collection reviews. With collections underway for Fall/Winter 2006, I will be here more often. In a pause from writing my review for the first day of the Rio shows……I am noticing several teenage girls sitting in small chat groups through out the sitting area. What has interested me is what they are wearing. Some of them are wearing nothing and most of them are wearing SWEAT tops and JEANS.

Late last year I was in Paris for the first time with my partner. We spent 3 weeks walking everywhere and soaking up every day life on the streets of Paris, I also attended a few shows during Spring/Summer collection week. In my numerous observations of Parisians, the one I kept noticing over and over is Parisian men take great care of themselves where as the women are slowly letting their relaxed lifestyle seep into their wardrobe and sense style. The Parisians are renowned for their sense of style and even today they still dress impeccably. But the men are starting to stand out more than the women when it comes to fashion. Thank God designer like McQueen and Bailey are moving men’s fashion forward!

Sitting here in California and looking at the girls gossiping over coffee, they are either barely dressed or dressed like they really don’t care. It shows in their hair to the makeup (lack of) and even to accessories. One group of girls are obviously the rocker chicks, one dressed in Harley Davidson Tube-Top and DC sneaks, the other in all Foxy brand (jacket, top, jeans and shoes) and two of them in head to toe Famous Stars and Straps, Travis Barker’s Label (Blink 182 – Drummer). (I must digress for one moment, I love Meet The Barkers on MTV – Sorry Travis Barker is HOT, in skinny TAT kind of way!

The other groups of girls were all about sweat jackets and jeans – Hair pulled up sloppily, dirty Converse shoes and Vans. Of coarse no makeup or just mascara…my advice to women of the world – if you just going to put on mascara and no other make-up, don’t put any makeup on at all. People will look at you funny instead of praising the effort of wear more than just mascara.

The absence of style is not only a growing problem just for girls but for women today. Women are still to matchy, matchy and with all the makeover shows on TV today they still wear clothes that are dated or don’t fit properly. Now I know how sad am I to be crapping on these ladies when I am sitting in a Starbucks in shorts. I know I need a job! LOL -- But hey did I go off on the women who walked in with a real Snow Cheetah Fur Vest! NO~~~! My friends Tom and Mimi are cringing as we speak……..

I love how you can still pick out the young closeted boys……one boy in a group of 6 teenage giggling girls! Oh that was so me 12 years ago….LOL

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The Banana Republic challenge is back, of coarse. But of coarse the people at Banana were smart and laid out navy charmeuse for the designers to choose in the bundle of fabrics. And of coarse 3 out of the 4 designers choose the silly fabric….thinking they are playing it safe. Flashback, last year Wendy Pepper won the BR challenge with a navy silk charmeuse dress with matching cape. Now I will admit I was at the BR flagship store in San Francisco the following to see the magic number. And I will admit that I am still kicking my ASS for not buying one. It was modestly priced at $89.00…..and of coarse I just checked eBay and it’s selling for $300+. Man!

Now about those numbers in last nights challenge, Daniel V.’s skirt was amazing along with Chloe’s skirt. Diana’s was too safe in her number and well Santino is a terrible designer….every outfit his done so far has been a knock off…….He should have gone home!!!!!! And to all you Bitches out in NYC – how come no one posted on any blog or article about the Banana Republic window challenge….HELLO!!!!!

Also, I am happy to report that I won another auction for a PR dress. This time I went with Emmett’s design again (pictured) – the bidding wasn’t so ugly as last time. This time the my auction went over 15 minutes compared to last time which was over 30 minutes. I was looked at some of the other auction in the last couple of weeks and some went over 3 hours of bid wars…..eek!

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American designers are struggling to keep their heads above water. One thing is for certain the newcomers seem to have the best luck for Spring/Summer. First up are Natalie Chanin and her design team at Project Alabama. This collection was a complete surprise and a true gift in sheep’s clothing. Everything from the summer dresses, tailored day jackets and embroidered skirts. The collection as a whole is a must have, if you can get your hands on one piece next month you are certainly a winner.

Diane Von Furstenberg presented a visually stunning collection for Spring/Summer. She gave us her bold and near perfect prints in all colors, density and shapes. Von Furstenberg explored this season’s dark palette but adding yellow, orange and red wherever she could. This red and white piece (dress & jacket) and her “New Look” dress in navy blue eyelet fabric are my must have picks for the season.

This season while everyone at New York fashion week went on and on about the dark pallet trend and how wonderful it was! I was pulling my hair out! But a handful of designers did give us some home for color this coming spring. One being Ms. Anna Sui, who abandoned her baby-doll dresses for light and fun summer dresses. I think Anna opted for no baby-doll dresses because everyone was doing it this season. Sui instead presented light Gatsby summer dresses with pale blue prints and pastel green embroidery. Both of these are my top pic for a Sui summer dress.

London was a little slim on the quality of collections. Only one designer stood out in the short week of fashion shows. Roksanda Ilincic presented a small collection this season and practically all-13 looks were perfect. From the cut to the form, right down to the couture fabrics.

In Milan, a few designers really took over Milan fashion week. An obvious pick is Alberta Ferretti and her label Philosophy and her namesake. Offering the must have dresses from Milan, From Philosophy’s silk satin flapper dress to Ferretti’s sleeveless panel dress with burnt amber and crisp whites satins.

The must have jacket from Milan most certainly belongs to Christopher Bailey for Burberry. The milk chocolate brown silk taffeta coat just floated down the runway. Catching the eye of every magazine editor, praying they get it early enough to shoot.

Now Paris can always be trusted, at least to give the world of fashion a hope for change. Well at least you can find more than 4 designers who can offer you something good.

First I must say that Nicholas Ghesquiere is a god in the making, of coarse his not at McQueen status right now. In his Spring/Summer collection for the House of Balenciaga, I am going to have to pick any of his romantic jackets or evening cocktail dresses. Especially this couture masterpiece, but wait its in a ready to wear line for the season. That means it’s easier on your pocket book.

Speaking of McQueen, of coarse his on my must have list…are you kidding. This season saw a lot of change for the designer. Showmen’s show for the fashion world and a collection that is not only wearable but dependable for the McQueen client. The must have down from Paris is most certainly McQueen’s backward gown with strands of gold beads over the bust. I am also still gushing over the deco inspired skirts in black and silver.

Although designer Karl Lagerfeld was on a exploration kick this season for the House of Chanel. He was able to not stray to far from the classic look of an honored House. The black cocktail dress with pastel lace tiers, its not only a new classic but sticking look for Chanel.

To close out this season I am going to shed the spotlight on a designer who not only brought delight to the editors in Paris but also shattered my preconception of his prior work. Lars Nilsson took the House of Nina Ricci on a new tangent for Spring/Summer. This season he presented a number of classic Ricci looks in new fabrics. The must have coat from Paris is the Ricci robe coat and his lave and jersey baby-doll dress.

The big trends of the season that you will see in the magazines are as followed:

1. Dark Palette (Black, Brown and Navy) the standout color of the season is the Techno Color blue.
2. There is most certainly a common masculine trend. Women in ties and slim suits.
3. Dior is God! Classic Dior gowns and dresses have been remastered by a number of designers this season. Here is to hoping these new designs educate the younger generations the necessity for classic design.
4. Lace is so pretty! Oh so pretty! Ruffles are so Fluffy, oh so Fluffy! The must have looks for the Spring/Summer season are lace and ruffle tops and dresses.
5. Everyone has a baby-doll dress this season….even Armani!
6. Accessories, you can never live without them…we may see them disappear now and then from the runways, but they will always come back!
7. Must have hand bags of the season, if you can get your hand on any of them, Diane Von Furstenberg

Thank you style

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Marc Jacobs decided to keep with this season color pallet in the opening of his Spring/Summer collection for the House of Vuitton. Mixing blacks, whites and browns. The Makeup and hair for the collection is clean and pulled back with just one embellishments, smokey eyes and hair barrettes. Although Jacobs and design team offered this season trends in the opening section, what came in the second section and the remainder of the collection was divinity for any label horror.

Marc and design team offered a number of pieces in this collection that are memorable reminders of Jacobs’s allegiance to the label. Summer dresses were clean cut with a plunging back; skin is radiant as the look for Vuitton in Spring/Summer. Jacobs also brought color to Paris, with deep purples, chartreuse, rust, orange and this seasons techno blue trend. Color is important as well as form for the designer. From the Mondrian jackets and dresses to the skirts and dresses in a rusty silk. Marc also showed a number of pieces in brightly colored patent leather dressed and skirts, the looks were too PVC and restrictive.

Marc Jacobs seems to attract those who find value in the name more than the quality. I know it may sound mean to judge the hip-hop community so bluntly, but if you were to ask them what fabric their Vuitton or Chanel dress is made of the stock answer would be “SILK”. Now, I will admit that they do have value and importance in the world of fashion.

Over the past 25 years, thanks to designers such as Jacobs, Versace and St, Laurent. The world of fashion has used the world of music as a marketing tool. Who do we have thank for this connection? Some in the business will be quick to lay credit to Vivienne Westwood and her sidekick Malcolm MacLaren. Who back in the 70’s molded the world of punk and created a fashion movement with her namesake label.

But this evolution can be traced back to the 30s and 40s. When designers and the world of film came together seamlessly. From this came the creation of muses such as Audrey Hepburn for Givenchy or Katherine Hepburn for Coco Chanel. This partnership continued to develop all the way to 60s with Catherine Deneuve and Yves St. Laurent.

Now back to Monsieur Jacobs and his collection Vuitton. My tangent had a target, the exploitation of a label in creating wealth in the brand recognition. Accessories are the best tools for this exploitation. Watching this collection you can easily be distracted by the amount of metallic accessories on the runway. From the belts, waist chains and even the bags. Two must have pieces are the standard LV bag with suede leather fringe which looks like a rainbow of colors covering the entire bag. The other is a bracelet with glass beading mixed with glass coral pieces. Of coarse there are matching earrings.

All though this collection has an abundance of standout accessories, the designer made sure there were enough embellished pieces. A parade of summer dresses in red, chartreuse and green had glass beading on the back, hip or even the neckline. He also showed a white dress and blouse covered in white glass and mirror tiles. Most certainly the inspiration was Monsieur Ribbane.

In the opening section Jacobs kept to the signature Jacobs/LV look his been building in the last 3 years. In this collection Marc added a sense of couture with rich fabrics and an abundance of little details. Like beading and embroidery, which is a shift of change for the label. I could easily see the inspiration of the 80’s in this collection and from such great designers as Ribbane as well as Ungaro and Lacroix.

Overall LV design team and Monsieur Jacobs have put together a memorable collection. Bravo.

thank you style.com

Posted by turlie at 03:29 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

Lars Nilsson presented a startling surprise for the House of Nina Ricci. A new look, which almost mirrors the classic Ricci form. This collection for Spring/Summer had the light and short look we have been aching to see in a number of collection weeks. Instead we were given dark colors and covered up skin all over.

Nilsson and his design team kept all of the editors and buyers toes tapping with excitement. Me included! There were so many standout pieces in this collection. Like all the skirts, and I mean all of them, especially the navy one with embroidered vertical lines in white. Nilsson even showed a baby-doll dress in navy with a white lace overlay.

Now you might wonder where this great amount of color was? Lets begin with the contrast stitch in persimmon and white. Floor length gowns with ribbon waists in pale blue/grey or a seersucker candy stripe floor length gown. Everyone seems set on the fact CZ was inspiration for this new look, but please refer to Ricci circa 1952 Spring/Summer Couture. I can list at least 30 women, American, who purchased the collection.

Now, for the remainder of my likes in this collection, there is the mini cape polo shirt, which we saw something similar from Jil Sander during Milan Fashion week. Then there is the star and flower print in different shades, but the standout color is this season techno color blue. Lars Nilsson has floored the Parisian fashion world. Season after season the designer has been presenting safe and somewhat predictable looks for the House of Ricci. This season Lars has presented not only a clean and summery collection but also a advancement in the houses philosophy of modern but classic works.

The must have pieces of the collection are ribbon strap jersey top and the coral jersey top with white lace overlay. A front runner for one of the best jackets of the season could be Lars remaster of a Nina Ricci's classic robe jacket. Very sexy and a classic piece in the making. This is most certainly great fete for Monsieur Nilsson. Bravo

thank you style.com

Posted by turlie at 03:28 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

And What Else Is New?????

so,
Let me see I have one child that is now "ENGAGED" and we are very happy for you both
Let me see I have one child that is expecting "TWINS" and we are very happy (twice)
Let me see I have one child that is expecting a"BABY" and we are very happy (again)
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
So, I think be are very blessed in the year 2006.
We are happy to add Clem to the family and look forward to sharing the joys of 2006 with him as a new "uncle" to these babies.

Clem and Brian have "history" together and we are glad to be the Brian's parents and part or it!

Posted by turlie at 03:21 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

John Galliano’s brings back to life his runway theatrics with his signature collection for Spring/Summer 06’. John’s ring master of ceremony screamed to guests “come one, come aged, come short, come tall, come exotic and come avant-garde. All shapes and ages graced the Galliano catwalk. What was really interesting is the designer incorporated all walks of life into this collection. From models to people you see every day, everyone was made up as Vixens, Latin Lovers and Starlets. Each model/actor in head to toe Galliano, even menswear.

Backstage John commented that he wanted everyone to feel and look beautiful. That he worked with some of the happiest people his ever meet and said “I just wanted to enhance their beauty”. The collection was homage to the era’s of cinema. He presented the collection is history of cinema themed runway. Galliano shifted the runway set from the silver screen all the way to modern day or future of cinema.

The opening section was homage to the silver screen; Galliano molded this section in a black and white pallet. Although there was no continuous look through this section, he opted ti mold decadent fabrics into classic Galliano shapes and looks. In the golden age section, Galliano focused on the mirror contrast of one’s looks, twins in contrasting colors or couple in two different era’s (20’s with 40’s).

In the final section the designer John holds a Fellini festival, building the models into characters, the geisha and garcson , the alien and the Barbie doll, even the Latin lover with the bollywood temptress. Although there are a lot of classic Galliano looks in the collection. There are some new looks, like the tulle shells in the opening section. A white skirt and one-piece dress were encased in contrasting black tulle. Even the 20’s inspired gowns with embroideries and beading.

With such a spectacle of a show, you may ask how can a buyer take something away from the show and sell it. I will admit that the collection as a whole is a bit of a repeat. Not only of Galliano’s name sake, but also of his work at the house of Dior. I would like to defend myself, only Galliano would have the galls to explore the world we live in and present a collection that celebrates how diverse we are and how fashion can mold to anyone – in any shape or age.

The must haves of the collection were the full-length tapestry bias cut coats. I also enjoyed the chartreuse gowns on Lily Cole and Gemma Ward. The marionette dolls were the best accessories of the collection. Bravo Monsieur Galliano for taking us into a new world.

thank you style.com

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Finally some justice in the world of Project Runway! Last night the Judging panel finally came to there senses. I will have to admit that Santino was the cream of crop for the Socialite episode. For the Fashion Face-Off contest I had actually chosen Marla to be the loser this week – but after the hideous outfit Guadalupe put together, the Judges made the best decision. And for those of you who thought Marla should be loser because she copied a dress Nicky had worn previously. Shame on you, everyone in the world of fashion copies and barrows from each other’s, past or present. My favorite outfit this week is most certainly Andrae and Emmett’s dresses (pictured above).

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For Spring/Summer 06, the House of Chloe is finally getting under the skin of its head designer Phoebe Philo. Season after season Phoebe and her design team have strayed from classic Chloe look from past. This season they have developed and mastered the soft and feminine look the label is known for. Phoebe herself seems to be making changes in her life and this collection proof. She may have changed from her golden lock to a new serious brunette, but this change is proof she’s a woman on a mission.

In the opening section, the designer hit the buyers with a plevee of laces baby doll dresses, gowns and tops. Although the abundance of softness in the pieces are perfect! The designer lost her focus in the form of several pieces. This section was presented in a black and white pallet.

In the second section the designer took the soft feminine look and flipped it with jackets, shorts and dresses that find its inspiration from Pierre Cardin. Any fashion nut would jump to the conclusion that Phoebe seemed to be lost this season trying to mix looks, but you have to stand back and appreciate the collection as a whole. She has finally found the true soul of the Chloe label and woman.

A number of pieces really jumped out at me in this collection. Like one baby doll dress that was short, in pale white and wide band hem and chiffon peter pan collar and tiered short sleeves. The abundance of femininity in this collection can be seen in all the little details. From the sheer tops with ruffle stripes, layers of lace and even ribbon details.

Backstage Philo comments this collection is about focusing on a clean and innocent look to the form and details of the collection. She worked with a number of couture fabrics in the collections and found it true learning experience. She found them not to versatile and developed a respect in her work with them. The end result is proof that her seriousness for providing a quality look for Chloe is evident.

In the past I have not shed to much light onto Phoebe and her work, as I found she took to much of her creative process from her former mentor Stella McCartney. Although her collections have been very wearable, I felt she was focusing on her own look rather than exploring the history of Chloe. This season Phoebe and her design team have broken down their barrier and finally present a truly Chloe looking collection. Chloe clients can finally rejoice!

The baby doll dresses are most certainly the must have of the collection. The big must have for the collection is most certainly that decadent yellow Cardin inspired jacket on Jessica Stam. It was gorgeous! Bravo Madam Philo for such a versatile collection.

thank you style.com

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Byblos looks to the softer and younger side of the Byblos woman. The focus for the collection was taking a lot of last seasons trends like the bubble shape and ruffles and tweaking them into a collection of strong couture quality looks. The color palette for the collection is a very toned down and almost mutes. The highlights are the abundant number of prints and stripes in the collection. In the second section took this color usage and showed several key looks. First is a striped look, a metallic wool strapless dress with a bubble shape hem worn over a long sleeve silk merino striped sweater. Another great color look was a geometric color design look. The geometric design molds with the futuristic theme we saw back in the 60’s. The look is another silk merino sweater top that incorporates different knits. To finish off the look the sweater is paired with white silk damask skirt.

In the opening section Byblos’s focus was on a more sophisticated woman and on separates in key looks. One of the perfect examples is cropped jacket and short look. The starts with a pair of knee-length pants (short) with the fabric pleated creating a balloon shape. This construction was used on pants and tops, to finish the look is metallic knit top worn under a cropped waist jacket with a high collar and long sleeves. Another great piece look is the tiered ruffle skirt. The layers of skirt are off-white and done with a silk moiré with vertical strips of beading, silk satin and the final layer done in silk chiffon. Both looks are very sophisticated but its proof that Byblos can keep the appeal to their younger clients while bringing back their older clients.

The must-have pieces from the collection are two out of the ordinary evening pieces. First is the beaded silver lame top with a mow collar, the short sleeves are draped with layers of ballooned shape fabric. To finish off the look is a pair of white shorts with a pleated balloon shape added to the sides of the short. The must have look is a soft Pucci style print dress, the dress is a v-neck strap dress with two layers of fabric dropping down the dress and hemmed with a balloon shape. The key highlight to this collection is all the prints and soft colors. Byblos has really struggled to really grasp the playfulness that its been known for in the past. Even during the days D&G at the helm its playfulness really jumped out. This season the Byblos woman found the playfulness and remastered it into a youthful but sophisticated woman. One could actually see D&G’s circus collection in this season use stripes and prints.

View complete collection at Wireimage

[images viaWireimage.com]

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Designer Frankie Morello’s Spring/Summer collection is a perfect example of the American Sportswear and Dancewear trends that have hit the Milan catwalk this season. This trend was initially seen at Sao Paolo and then made its jump to New York. Milan has taken these two trends and morphed them together with great tailoring. Frankie Morella is one of the collections that really grasped the look and redefined the it with Milanese tailoring. Morello’s inspiration was drawn from the everyday function of performance art and morphing it with the American Sportswear created by Perry Ellis and Anne Klein. In the opening section Morello kept this look very loose and light. One of the standout pieces in the opening section is a pale ecru jersey overall worn with a pale yellow spandex leotard with cropped princess sleeve. The leg of overall is full in shape; another great full leg look in the opening section is a purple twill pant with a velvet treatment to the fabric. The pant is high waisted and worn with suspenders, to finish the look Morello showed a loose fitting leotard with a mock turtleneck and a draped bubble shape sleeve.

Morello played with a lot of little detailed trends like the full leg pant and shorts even varying the lengths of his skirts. The only down side is the abundant use of the balloon shape. Another strong trend in this collection is the color palette. A very two tone color palette, he keeps the color tied down by mixing natural shades with white and showing a few shocking shades of yellow and red sorbet. In the second section Morello started to incorporate more outerwear pieces. One of the standout pieces in this section was a classic trench coat. Morello reshapes the coat adding volume and using the belt to keep the classic trench structure. The sleeves are ½ length and the look was finished with a pair of Morello’s full leg pants. Another great look from the second section incorporates another big trend this season, the print. An a-line silk moiré mini-dress is printed with a geometric circle print. The print contains the three shocking colors of the collection.

There are two must-have looks from the collection. First is one of Morello’s outerwear pieces, a purple a-line overcoat. The coat sleeves are ¾ length and a pair of Morello’s full leg pants, these in a dark olive brown. The other must have look is a layered looks in the second section. An off-white cropped waist and sleeve jacket worn over a yellow jersey hooded top and white long sleeve top. To finish the look Morello showed a khaki color mini skirt. My last impression of this collection is how comfortable this collection looks and feels. Milan is not known to house the functional and comforting. Rather Milan designers tend to keep their craft in the refined leisurewear style with emphasis on tailoring. What is surprising of Frankie Morello’s Spring/Summer collection is that it fits in the New York design world but his talent for structure and eye for the woman form keeps him in Milan. Bravo Monsieur Morello!

View complete collection at Wireimage

[images viaWireimage.com]

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The storms here in Northern California have wreaked havoc on everyone. We sat in candlelight last night thinking of the days in San Francisco when a power outage would not last more than hour. We remembered seeing the news reports about PG&E customers going more than 24 hours without power. Now that's just silly! How is the possible? Well when you move to burbs - expect it! Not to mention the half of our back fence blew down in the storm. We now have to replace it sooner than we expected.

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