Véronique Branquinho's collection this Spring/Summer is a safe venture for the customer. She opened the show with a number of pieces that were very simple and did not keep to one designed look. Like, the 80’s geometric sweater in black and white. The opening pieces seemed to be bad flashback to the new wave era. Véronique did stretch leggings paired with dresses and shorts, which killed the overall look on the models. The jersey dresses were to baggy and overworked.

At the middle of the show Branquicho seemed to switch teams. The collection took a turn of refined monochromatic look. Clean lines and classic forms molded each piece. What is really eerie about this collection is how similar the looks were to Nicholas Ghesquiere. One can almost say that this collection mirrors the Balenciaga line of season’s past. The must have piece in the collection is the pinstripe grey shorts that are cut to the leg.

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Vivienne Westwood is on a rampage this season. Westwood jumps into the political advocacy arena while deconstructing the tailored woman of the 21st century. After the show, Vivienne explained that the drive for this collection was based on the symbols of “AR” (Active Resistance to Propaganda). This symbol took shape as Logo, Label, Silk Screen Statements and lettering.

As she focused on the political outcomes to being free of the “MAN”. Westwood took the tailored woman of today and turned her inside out. She mixed strong prints with bold graffiti art prints. Along with the bold prints she reconstructed pin stripe suits, shirts and skirts. I like to call it the ladies suit remastered.

Westwood seemed to channel the Commes de Garcons philosophy of reconstruct and renew. Skirts were homage to abstract and asymmetrical lines and shapes. There was no continuous form in any of the pieces, each piece seems to take on its own statement and look. This is most certainly keeping true to Westwood’s drive for the collection. Some may look at this collection and scream that looks to slouchy or unkempt. Take a moment and look twice at these pieces. There is a true vision of her collection.

Westwood combined numerous fabrics, prints in each look. The one piece I fell in love with was the teal & orange contrast Japanese print skirt suit. The opening section of screaming prints on pencil skirts and contrasting jackets were amazing. The section of striped stretch skirts and pants with a tie-dye print screened on them. The Westwood pant this season is high waisted and in bold colors. The close of the show was a plevy of 80’s big prom gowns reconstructed. Taffeta and more Taffeta! They appeared to be weightless on the models. These gowns, although signature for Westwood were a great close to a bold and remastered look for Vivienne and her team. Bravo Madam Westwood.

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Chisty Turlington and husband Ed Burns stepped out this week at the Annual NY Ballet Gala. Christy is now over 5 months and looking amazing in Marc Jacobs.

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John Galliano journeys into the world of muses this season, but opting for a modern beauty of our time. This season Galliano calls for his longtime friend and former model, Stella Tennent to shed her light on this season’s collection. Galliano looks to Tennents feminine but masculine features and explores the edges of limits in this almost divine feminine collection. Pat McGrath shifted this inspiration in the makeup.

Lace was a must accent in the opening pieces along with the nude palette for the fabrics. Each had little black to offset the abundance of nude. The nude trench with the tulle inlays and white ribbon contrast was a perfect example of the refined Dior opulence. I loved the nude sequenced trench with the tapered leg pants. The standout piece in the opening was the nude pants with the torn lace fishnets stockings shorts on top of the pants.

In the middle section of the collection Galliano splashed the refreshing color into the nude pieces. The vibrant hues of purple, orange and then morphing into tarnished yellows and browns. John fades the colors into his nude palette and then shifts fabrics from sating and then back to tulle. The forms overall were breathtaking but not too unwearable.

The mass volumes he looked to achieve in the South American section seemed to be lost. Lost in the form and lost in the look! Although I liked the leather and denim pants, which will be hot sale item for the house next spring. Although I was happy to see some splash of color in the collection – the plevy of nude shifted my interests elsewhere. I am happy to report that the Dior saddle bag is finally making it morph, although very slowly.

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Nicholas Ghesquiere has floored me yet again. When I look back at my notes for his Spring/Summer collection for the house of Balenciaga. Every item I noted was marked Love, Love, Love, Love. Nicholas is the best thing to happen to the house of Balenciaga since Cristobal Balenciaga himself. His presentation for the Spring/Summer met with raving wow’s and everyone clapping.

This collection was a transfer from the modern and tailored Ghesquiere to a more romantic but modern woman, a must for the Balenciaga woman. The opening suits with their black and white stripped jackets seem to move easily on the models. Such close tailoring tend to make the wearer look stiff. Paired with many well-tailored jackets are the navy, silver and steel toned pants. A close tapered leg gave the pants a futuristic switch in the looks. Through these strong and masculine looks comes the new breath and look.

A series of 3 cocktail dresses with a flowering shape emerged and set a new tone for the remainder of the collection. The skirts on these dresses were encircled with different sizes of ribbons, in shades of Black, White and Ivory. Nicholas explored this new feminine form and presented a number of cocktail dresses and gowns with multiple prints paired with lace inserts. The lace insert gowns had a simple and sexy look of nigh gowns and lingerie. He also dabbled with the new trend this season of ruffles, with great success. Adding these ruffles to lace jackets and dresses. This collection is another leap into the future for the house of Balenciaga. Nicholas is proving his has the ability to build the house into a new chapter. Bravo Monsieur Ghesquiere!

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The gentlemen design team has found their softer side, again. For this collection the design duo seemed to be focused on escape from the standard form and while splashing fun into each piece. At the opening of the show we can see repeats from last season’s “sideways tuxedo”. Plus the bolero top dress, which was the cascading ribbon dress from last season. Although there were repeats there we some really striking standouts in the collection.

The inspiration for the collection was 80’s Scassi dresses and 70’s disco chic pants and suits. The designer turned the look upside down and added the Victor & Rolf originality. From the silk jersey drape dress with pant legs or a twist in the hem. V&F also showed the expansion of their brand in this collection. From a new lingerie line and accessories line. The tier bra and panel panties are homage to the 50’s but very sexy. The designers did opt to add a splash of the gold lame trend from this season. The attempt was a backfire. The gold lame pants were a big miss! Cementing my thought that this trend must disappear.

Overall there were two pieces in the collection that stood out. The pale green cocktail summer dress was the only splash of color in a collection of neutrals and blacks. As well as the pant dress piece with a solid color panel on one side and print panel on the other. Victor & Rolf were looking to produce a wearable & sellable collection this season, and I believe they have succeeded. Bravo Monsieur Victor & Rolf

view collection here

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With X3 still in production and principle photography halfway done. Director Ratner casts two young and beautiful villianises. Actress Ashley Hartman (Holly on "The O.C") will fit into the role of Emma Frost (The White Queen). The final casting is of Mercedes Scelba-Shorte (Runner Up on the Second Season of America's Top Model). Mercedes will taking on the role of Monet St. Croix (aka - "M"). I think Hartman is a great casting choice, but Mercedes might prove to be useless. thanks x-verse

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I never thought I would stoop so low to post anything about Lindsay Lohan. Well, to my suprise Ms. Lohan hit the streets wearing a Alexnader McQueen tartan jacket. Sad part is I just donated a jacket with a similar print. thanks to Perezhilton for posting it.......

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Earlier this week designer Martin Grant evoked the words and rythms of Miles Davis in his recent Spring/Summer collection. Mr. Grant’s found this inspiration in Miles Davis song “Kind of Blue” The collection was built around this seasons trend palette of Blues and Navys, while Grant explored adding teal and aqua shade on numerious pieces. The jackets had a relaxed fit but the 50’s inspired dresses with dress shirts in organdy and matching skirts. The two pieces in this collection that jumped right out was the pale aqua dress with a silk sating ribbon around the delicate waist. And the other escaped the blue palette, the opal white satin jacket with a wide peter pan collar. Bravo Monsieur Grant

View Collection Here

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This season Albert Kriemler has opted for a simple and clean collection. Although it appeared the designer felt like bundling up for cold fall rather than loosening up for hot spring/summer. The Akris structure this season is undefined, loose with very simple details. In the opening section the designer kept with this season trend of a brown palette, coloring shorts, dresses and slim pants in pale khaki and pale nude.

In the second section the designer showed a wide lapel jacket with above the wrist sleeve. This jacket is a must have out of this collection. It moved on the runway with model and was cut perfectly. It was shown in a number of looks, with dot patches of green, brown and yellows and an all white, all brown and navy version.

I also fell in love with the honey brown outfit with matching leather jacket with a above the knee skirt. Half of the skirt was covered with what looked to be a knit wrap or tier; Similar to a sweater like material. Very modern but very unique! In the middle of the collection the designer shifted the earth tone pallet to start white and dark navy. Albert presented the classic Akris pant suit along with wrap dresses and a number of cocktail dresses closed the show with cascading colors on silk charmeuse, this is most certainly a done look.

The must have pieces of this collection is Akris cocktail jacket and brown the brown chiffon cocktail dress with a lead and ivy silk screen print overlaid on the fabric. Overall I must commend Monsieur Kriemler for a substantial collection – a big change for the designer.

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Karl Lagerfeld may be on the move in NYC in this New Year. But before he left Paris he made sure that the fashion world understood that Paris is home and Chanel belongs in Paris for eternity. His presentation for Spring/Summer 06’ was an emphasis of the clothes and the Chanel look. The designer opted for matte makeup, a long eyebrow and clean hair. The striking reminder of the labels name power was the abundance of the Chanel Logo and Name though out the collection.

Karl opened the collection with a little color for the Chanel client for the season. He offered clean colors like yellow, pink and this season trend color, techno color blue. Overall the bulk of the collection kept to this season’s dark shade but Karl opted for strictly black and white. What is interesting is this pallet is a signature for his namesake line.

There were two really interesting trends for Chanel this season. The designer decided to focus on a number of matching men’s pieces for the women’s collection. I know most may find matching couples to be hideous but Karl was able to pull it off. The second trend is Karl’s transformation and move to NYC. His taken the label a step forward in a positive advance.

Several sections really focused on these changes. Karl explored the draping of modern design in dresses, jackets and tops. The draping is similar to designers such as Garcons and Yamamoto. He added geometric shapes and lace fabrics to building on these complex but clean looks. The geometric prints are homage to house of Pucci and well as Ungaro.

What is really interesting about this collection is the amount of barrowing and exploration Karl did for this collection. Several sections as well as pieces have routes in current day designers like Victor&Rolf, Ghesquiere and even Arnold Scassi (I know Arnold doesn’t show anymore – but the 80’s is not that long ago. Karl does continue to find inspiration in his love child Hedi Slimane.

The last evening section offered a whole new look for the Chanel client. Cocktail dresses with a lot of body and evening gowns that are homage to Karl’s days with the House of Chloe (I miss Karl at Chloe, hell I miss Stella at Chloe). The best parts of the evening section were the black cocktail dresses with tiers of lace and beading on the bodice and skirts in baby colors (red, green and blues) and white. This is the must have piece of this collection. Although the dresses do not fit the Chanel mold it adds more options for the Chanel customer.

Other pieces to note are the crochets tops in black and white and the geometric tops in grays, blues and browns. Plus I loved the tweed weave jackets for men and women. Karl is great at adding all the little details that can catch your eye for the Chanel Jackets. Like the ribbon trim or layering in the weave. The down sides there are the baby dolls dresses in black and white with teardrop trim. Overall I must say Bravo Monsieur Lagerfeld.

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Actor Johnny Depp came out swinging late this week for his ex-girlfriend Kate Moss. He was commented in saying "It was unbelievably unfair the way she was treated. She was dragged through the mud. She's not running for office, she ain't looking to be the next Messiah. She's not out there philosophising or pretending to be goody-two shoes, she's a human being. She's no dummy, man. She's a great girl, she's a real good kid and I care about her a great deal. Like everyone, I want her to be OK. I want her and her kiddie to be OK. She's should just do what she needs to do for herself and her kid and that's it." Now that's an ex with respect.

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British Vogue reported today that designer Alexander McQueen is launching a new sister label for Fall/Winter 2006. The new label will be both for women and men and at an affordable price range of $49-$400. It will be carried in over 600 stores worldwide as well as online. This venture comes at a time when the House of McQueen is under pressure by the Gucci Group to create a profit. In September the designer launched his new shoe line with PUMA called "MANCAT". The shoe collection is expected to availble for sale early next year for Spring/Summer 2006. Some critics in industry are already commenting that this new clothing line could hurt McQueen and his image. Fingers crossed that they are wrong!

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Frida Giannini took the house of Gucci into new era this season. She focused the collection in creating a new fresh preppy look. She opened the collection with form fitting strip polo’s with white collars. Giannini moved her focus into short summer dresses and shorts in different lengths and either taper or loose fit. The standout pieces range from the organdy dresses and gowns. To the aqua flower print gown with a low back and floral design sequin dresses. Frida presented more floral prints on satin and organdy. A number of the prints were taken from the Gucci archive. My favorite was the red peek-a-boo flower print, but I didn’t like the pineapple prints. Giannini stated that her focus this season was on her dresses and Gowns. One can easily see that her focus was on all the little details, from the cut to the stitching and beading. The only pieces in the collection that didn’t grab me was the low-rise and taper leg pants. Overall the collection is a great sell for any client, new or old. Bravo Madame Giannini

View Collection Here

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