Veronica Etro jumps at the new color trend of the season, techno color blue. Creating tribal symbols on dresses and jackets. Etro sticks to her classic use of contrasting prints on skirts, blouses and pants. But the over use of prints made the collection a little too busy. Overall she presented a number of pieces that are must haves. My picks include the yellow print gown with black embroidered butterflies on the waist. The aqua lame jacket, the painted silk dresses and gowns. Etro even minded the little details in her pieces. Like the contrast trim on pant legs, hems and pockets and the pairing of colors at the close of the show, pairing a palette of blue, black, yellow, fuscia and green. Bravo Madam Etro

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Christopher Bailey jumps back to the sixties with his recent Spring/Summer collection. Bailey seeks inspiration in Ali McGraw’s loose and relax look, mixed with sophisticated Princess Margaret. This mix is easily noticeable in the fabrics and the cut of the dresses and jackets. Like, the large cape jacket with large saucer buttons. Bailey also focused his energy on the silk taffeta dresses with layered pleats in the front, shown in brown, navy and yellow. He then shifted the collection into a couture quality look. The stand out pieces in this collection overall were the jackets. From the reconstructed Burberry trench with it’s romantic bow sleeve and the muted aqua taffeta jacket. For evening Bailey kept look short and simple elegance. There were no gowns to be found in this collection. Bravo Monsieur Bailey

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The Cavalli family escaped to the resort this season. The collection opened with gingham shorts with matching jackets. Paired with Chanel inspired bags and nautical jackets of sequins. Cavalli kept to its ability to build a collection with strong prints. From the red and blue large print gingham, the nautical multi-stripe, rust colored giraffe print to the black and red cheetah print. The white skirt suit with nay blue contrast stitch on the pockets, seams and lining is a must have. But the standout must have pieces of the collection were, the all the gingham pieces that were constructed perfectly. The down points of the collection were the 70’s gold lame hot pants with terry cloth trim and the yellow-orange fringe trim flapper dress. The show closed with two looks that brought it up on a high note. The aqua and green apple silk organdy gowns, and the red/pink/orange gown with multi-layers of ruffles on top and bottom and a thick band of black sequins around the waist. The Cavalli team has finally found their look as they move away from the Versace over glam. The new Cavalli woman is sexy and subtle with a powerful impression afterwards.

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Designer Raf Simmons is absent in this collection while the Sander design team seems to be lost this season at the Italian house of Jil Sander. The Spring/Summer show was classic Sander minimalism in the wrong direction. Although the color palette was white and crisp the downside to the collection was the bold colors his splashed over pieces. All of the bold color pieces fell outside of the Sander mold. The collection shown was relatively small with very little options. I am not sure what piece was the most frightening. The black panels on white pants or the contrasting multi-pocket shirt? Overall I think the mini-cape dress takes the cake, a real low "Super Girl" move. It seems that the Sander label is hitting rough times, Again! Hopefully the appointment of Raf Simmons as the creative director developes a revival since it’s namesake excited a second time. Or is this is a perfect example of all great things must come to an end. Soon!

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Karl Lagerfeld opened this season’s Fendi show with a lacey backdrop. The designer brought the Chanel quality to Fendi this season. The opening pieces of polka dots and laser cut lace trim dresses of leather and pique was almost flawless. This look kept with the continue trend of the season. The soft canary yellow leather dress was formed perfectly. The large buckle belts, 40’s aviator jackets were certainly a blemish on the collection. But Karl managed to bring it back with tulip inspired gowns and dresses in lavender, tan and black. The crowning pieces of the collection were the pale seafoam, black, and pink chiffon tier dresses. The volume and cut were classic and delicate, although I did not like the little pastel fur trim on the hem. Overall you can see how Lagerfeld molded this collection of a small inspiration from his work at the house of Chanel. This has continued to happen in the last 10 years his designed for Fendi. Overall its not bad because his able to shape and mold that look to cattier to the Fendi client and tradition. My gushing piece from this collection is the multi-color print used in skirts and blouses with the “F” symbol. This is my hot item for this collection. Lagerfeld kept to many trends of the season including the techno-color blue, which presented in a beautiful cocktail dress and blouses. Bravo Monsieur Lagerfeld

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My brother and sister-in-law are having twins. Congrat C&D.......

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Simple construction is what Vandervorst presented this week in Paris. The collection is draped onto the models and designer molds the construction with sexy modern look. AF explored this season’s trend, from the Grecian column dress to the Spanish ruffles. The standout pieces of the collection were the ruffled tier tops and dress. The V-neck dress had a tier of ruffles dripping down the side. Another piece, which caught me off guard, was the crochet dress with colors like pale blue, pink and baby green. The palette for this collection strict to this season’s palette of white, nude and black. Thank you AF for not using any Brown.

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As the show got under way the opening pieces made me think twice on whether I was in Paris or Italy. The obvious inspiration of this collection is mix between Jil Sander and Alberta Feretti. Patrick Robinson’s presentations of his vision for the house of Paco Ribanne his moving in the wrong direction. After the show the designer commented that his focusing on moving the house of Ribanne towards tomorrow. Only two pieces stood out in the collection. The white and black contrast floral print top and the khaki coat with the panels of feathers on the breast. The jacket is the only piece in the collection come close to the Ribanne philosophy. Overall the collection is a step in the wrong direction. It seems that Robinson is shifting away from 40+ years of hard work Ribanne created.

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The gents over at Dsquared2 seem to be caught in a time warp. And I am not talking about the “Annie Get Your Gun” theme of the collection. The design duo presented a collection of ranch hand clothes, which is a trend we saw last season. The collection was made up of a number of dresses, skirts and gowns made of denim and leather. The use the leather and denim was to bulky for a woman to move and unwearable in todays Spring/Summer weather. The structure of the leather jackets make them a great find for any shopper. The lavender summer dress with a petal ruffle detail on the skirt was key must have of the collection. Although the collection felt more dark than a average collection of this season, the Dsquared duo got lost in shaping their image with the ranchers lifestyle look. There was one other dress that caught the audience eye, the kahki cocktail dress with the leather hip design. Here’s to next season.

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Anna Molinari’s Spring/Summer collection is escape from this season’s trends. Molinari brings visions of the Moulin Rouge with the classic look of Balenciaga. So many pieces of this collection were striking standouts. The Balenciaga inspired coat with the feather collar in lavender was breathtaking. The construction of the double-sided two-tone taffeta dresses was perfection. They formed flattering shapes on the models. The collection overall had a couture feel and presence on the runway. From the cut of the dresses and gowns to the little details that set off each piece. The black silk taffeta evening suit was pure sexy the little Molinari signature ruffle lapels. Molinari shifted the collection from a construct look to a more modern Yamamoto form and out of nowhere a Grecian empress dress with little to no embellishments. In a crowning moment the ostrich feather dresses came floating down the runway one by one. A sensational fete, the dress’s length and cut were near flawless. Brova Madame Molinari

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Last week Donatella took the family business on Safari. The Versace Spring/Summer collection opened with the models fully clothed with brown and khaki dresses and pants outfits. The opening gave the audience the feel that the collection was not a Versace signature. The collection as a whole had an American look and feel to it. The gathered silk dress worn by Lily Cole with the gradient brown color had a Norma Kamali form. The most exciting pieces on the runway were the swimsuits in 80’s colors. The collection is most certainly one of the most relaxed Donatella has shown in while, this detail is common with American designers. The show closed with the signature Versace evening dress, which were muted this season with very little details or sexiness. There are many sellable pieces in this collection but the overall look was lost.

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Dolce & Gabbana shifted from their white virgin collection for D&G to hot Lolita collection for their first namesake label. Red in all shapes, colors and looks. Some of the reds looked washed out on the runway. A number of pieces were a little to decadent. Like, the large gingham print with matching platforms shoes and all the over ruffled dresses and skirts. One print stood out in the collection, red poppies with a black background. The models looked like opium den harlots in a dream sequence. The Italian duo tried to cleverly bring in the trends of the season. Brown satin ribbons accented dresses and skirts along with silk and ruffles added to pieces, which need no adornment. The scariest piece of the collection was the Monet “Lily” print skirt and dresses. With over 100 looks in the show alone, the parading of the models one after the other was nauseating. The collection as a whole was cheap knock off of the quality we expect of Dolce & Gabbana. I shutter to suggest that one of the designers had their hand on this collection while the other was on vacation. Halfway through the show we saw a shift of the bad to the “Why”. Slowly Chanel pieces came out, then Ungaro knock offs and finally Lacroix signature pieces. At the end of the show, the evening gowns were also a shift between Galliano to Gaultier. Only one gown had the Dolce & Gabbana signature look. Dominico please come back.

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Tomas Maier’s menswear collection for the Italian label Bottega Veneta was another hit for Milan Fashion Week. The designer showed numerous pieces that were not only wearable and sellable but shifts the label into a new market. The strip polo’s with contrasting collars and button lapel’s ring in a sixties feel. The pants are full legged and relaxed and fit perfectly. The only miss look for the collection is all the jackets. They were cut incorrectly, the jackets gathered in the front when buttoned. The must have piece of the collection is biker jackets in navy & green with a high waist.

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During my trek through the collections in Paris last month I was delighted to meet several members of the Vogue team. Anna Wintour was very nice especially when fighting off all the Paparazzi (man they can be nasty). She was kind enough to all me to take her picture, of coarse I asked her.

Then I was happy to meet Hamish Bowels at the Elie Saab show. We had a short conversation about the show and then chatted about his stay in Paris. Unfortunately there was one person I missed all week. Madam Grace Codington, I saw her once but from a far. Next time I hope to meet her.

At the Valentino show I was lucky to also meet Mr. Andre Leon Talley, unfortunately I was introducing myself at the wrong time. Some portly photographer sitting directly behind him was complaining he was ruining his shot. Like a true gentleman he politely but firmly responded that he was being rude interrupting our conversation. He also honored me in taking his photo.

Thank you Anna, Andre & Hamish...........

On a style.com note - I also ran into Madam Candy Pratts Price.......loved her with Christian Louboutin’s and Valentino skirt, sadly she was on a mission.

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The Italian Couture council showed young promising Italian designer during fashion week in Milan - hosting the "Who is on Next". Two of the three designers presented some simple Italian quality collections - but they had no vision or sense of development. The final collection was defined the word NEXT for the show. Tommaso Aquilano and Roberta Rimondi’s collection for their 6267 collection was a sign of change. The high waistline of the skirts and pants are a trend I hope shifts more collection next season. The color palette for 6267 is a combination of navy, chocolate, snowy white and deep burgundy The designers have a Valentino quality to their look but they mix it with sexy, androgyny and class. 6267 boys explored crafting everything from the 30’s workingwomen’s suit with the blow the knee skirt and a little flare at the hem. Another striking suit is the high waist pantsuit with matching vest with squared off lapels. The common look for 6267 is the high waist. My two favorite pieces were the snowy white wool cardigan with appliqués and embroideries and the pleated organdy blouse with a Spanish ruffle collar. Bravo 6267

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Allesandro attempts to master the little black dress in his Spring/Summer collection. Marilyn Monroe is commented to be the inspiration of this collection. I get more of a feel that the collection is inspired from the vixens of Italian and French cinema. To me the collection screamed Gina Lolabrigida and Vanessa Paradis. I did fall in love with the lace pencil dress and skirt with aqua and red lining. The red Gottex skirt was to form fitting and badly dated. Dell’Acqua jumped into using this season techno color blue with a few successful pieces. The standout piece of the collection was the matching jacket & pencil skirt and the pencil dress with red beading cover the dress. Overall the collection was triumphant in exploring the little black dress, but I have to point out this collection is Spring/Summer, you do the Math?

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Tomas Maier’s collection for Bottega Veneta was a shocking delight. The designer opened the collection with some of the luscious chocolate satin dresses I have seen in a while. They appeared to be weightless on the runway. The Fendi palette is a color spectrum of fantasy. From the rainbow fan print skirt to the vibrant geometric print skirt the BV collection hits a high note. Maier explored this season’s trend of lacey summer dresses and Spanish flare skirts and blouses. The crowning piece of the collection was the chocolate pleated organza dress with lace details. Also the white gypsy skirt with black and white embroidery. Maier showed an almost flawless collection until the closing evening section. The gowns screamed Ralph Lauren rather than the classic Bottega Veneta form. Althoug the close was a miss the whole collection is a hit. Bravo Tomas

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Alberta hit Milan fashion week with a one, two punch. With an outstanding show of her Philosophy earlier this week, she presented a near perfect show of her Ferretti label. Although the collection had very little jackets and coats, the ¾ length trench with the Peter Pan collar and the dusty gold coats with deco geometric prints were simple but a key piece in this collection. A large number of the dresses and gowns had a Roman/Grecian look with little piece of Chanel echoing in the colors and prints. Piece after piece, I fell more in love with this collection. From the 20’s silk sating dress with eyelets cutouts at the hem to the sleeveless panel dress of burnt amber and crisp white satin. The most striking piece in this collection was the chocolate check dress and with matching jacket. This collection might be one of Alberta Ferretti’s best ever. Bravo Alberta

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