Next year, everyone is going to be really depressed and drab in what New York had to offer. The New York color palette is dark, dark, dark! The major trend colors were Black, Navy & Brown. Around 10% of the collection had color but only with a contrast print or piece of a dark color. Those designers I can pick in that 10% are D.V. Furstenberg, Betsey Johnson & Anna Sui. This is one trend this season I am very disappointed in. While color was down point of this season, the upside is the contrast prints that gave a little life to some of the collection. Designers like Carolina Herrera, DVF & Heatherette.
Other trends that were seen this season were cardigans for day and evening. There was no standard length this season everyone went to short, too long or just at the knee. Bold prints are a must have this season and a lot of ruffles and flounces of fabric. The lighter the better is a standard in many collections. With all those dark colors on the runways, designers opted for light and flowing fabrics.
With every season one big whoop’s comes along and makes headlines. Two happened this season. The first headline maker was the Diane Von Furstenberg show last week. The collection alone was a hit; every piece had something to rave about. The collection still stood on it’s feet after lighting rigs fell from the sky and knocked out a couple of buyers and editors. The second flop was Gwen Steffani’s NY show for her label L.A.M.B, I love Gwen Steffani, she’s an icon in the making, but this collection was so lost I am not sure she knew where to cut and add. As I recommended, I think Gwen had to many people putting their two-sense worth into adding or trimming the collection. Hopefully next season we will see the flip side of Gwen. Something we never seen before?
This season did have a few breathtaking shows. DVF was not alone in showing what could be the best collection of her career. Two other designers showed what could view of what’s to come in the future. Zac Posen for the past 4 years has continued improve here and there. The Zac Posen show last week was at a completely different level from his past work. Dare I say, I can see the vision of Balenciaga, Saint Laurent & McQueen in this young visionary. Posen showed a collection that has created a Posen style. I predict not one piece won’t be picked up or sold.
The second collection was designer Natalie Chanin’s label Project Alabama. This collection was a real find this season. The collection gave NYC fashion week hope for life. Although Chanin conformed to the NY trend of using Navy and Black, she used very little. It was her use of bold reds and yellow that knocked my socks off. The key to her collection is she tied pieces together with all the little details. From the embroidery to the beading, every look seemed to flow together.
Menswear in New York this season was another miss. Designers seemed to be grabbing looks here and there, hoping for a standout collection. Michael Kors tried hard to adhere to the southwest trend this season but the collection had to many pieces that killed the look. Like a Indian poncho that had a Greek design weaved into it or the camouflage pants, shirts, jackets, shorts and bags. While designer Kenneth Cole showed a fall collection for spring/summer. Dark, Dark, Dark – the only color seemed to be on the one item I loved in the show, the double thin belts.
There was one men’s collection that reigns supreme in New York. Twenty-six year old Tomer Gendler’s show last week was divinity. The pants had a new cut, flat fronts and little details that caught your eye. Even the collarless shirts, bowlers and dickey pants added more vision to the Tomer look.
Overall NY fashion week did have its shinning stars, but as whole a very disappointing. I look forward to seeing Milan and Paris in the coming weeks. I will be in Paris in person attending shows that I have received invites too.
thank you style
Alberta Ferretti’s lower end label Philosophy looks for inspiration of the 1920’s. With definite hints of Coco Chanel through the collection, Ferretti molds the Italian tailor look with the divinity of French style. The silk sating dresses with the Spanish flare moved with a couture flounce. While the Chanel inspired jackets with peter pan collars and prominent pockets were key must have in this collection. The whole Philosophy collection is a sale, every piece kept to the one look but with different options in every piece. This collection is for the woman who wants to be comfortable but sexy at the same time. Ferretti’s silk satin flapper dresses had simple but classic details. But the most ravishing piece was the colorful satin print dress with appliqués. Bravo Madame Ferretti
